[rebel-builders] Wing Completion:

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Well Tim I hear ya on paragraph #1 and am working on everything I can to get
my step father to take me off his will as executor. My kid sister and Mother
were enough for my lifetime and it doesn't ever seem to end. Was July '09
for my sister and I finally got a tax clearance certificate 2 weeks ago.. My
Mother was 7 weeks later in Aug '09 and we still don't even have a tax
assessment from the Government, so that we can apply for the clearance
certificate.

Congrats on getting that wing done and since your skins are still loose you
should be able to do some bolt change/shim on those flaperon brackets to get
skin clearance, if you didn't use anchor nuts like have suggested over the
years. If you do have to trim it.. find someone with a 12' shear and a few
guys to help you hold it in there with the wing upside down. There is just
enough overhang to get it in a shear and have the fingers hold the skin.
Snipping by hand.. you won't like the look!

Pressure testing. I like to cap the extra ports....put a snifter valve in
one fuel port... condom the filler neck with an elastic band around the
base.. pressurize it enough to look like a city water tower and leave it for
DAYS. Pressure and temperature changes will make the condom deflate and
reinflate, and you know you have an absolutely good tank when you come in
the shop one morning and find it inflated INSIDE the tank due to a low
pressure in the tank and a high pressure day... ie a vacuum.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <tjhickey@iowatelecom.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 9:54 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Wing Completion:

Greetings to all Rebelers:

I, at last, can report that wing 2 is complete. I had hoped to complete
this one by the end of 2010, but as you all know, stuff happens. Since I
started this Murphy project I have lost my mom, one aunt who lived in
Wisconsin, and in early January I lost another aunt. With Mom and the most
recent aunt I had duties as Executor of the estates. As one article about
the duties of being an executor states, " if you can avoid being an
executor, do." At this point I agree. I am about out of prior generation
relatives, so maybe progress on the Murphy can hit the express lane.

I pressure tested the wing with air using a 8" water column head, and
while
this is not a lot of air pressure, it seemed to me to be enough to test
the
integrity of the tank. The tank held pressure for about 12 hours, and I
consider that to be good enough.
I have discovered that it looks like I am going to have to trim the upper
skin to clear the flaperons. I don't quite understand this, as I don't
recall having any issue with interference on the right wing, but I sure do
on the left. Could it be possible that there is some difference between
the
left and the right?
On both wings I have left the top rear skin un-riveted, as I always like
to
keep my options open for as long as possible. When I was building my
Zenith
CH300 25 years ago, I had so many parts clecoed together that I finally
realized that I was going to have to use some rivets so I could get my
clecos back for use in other areas.

So if I do have to trim the skin at least I can pull it off the wing and
get
it on the bench.

I have spent the last several days cleaning up the mess I have made in the
garage, and next I think I need to cut the table legs down a bit. I built
the table 39 inches tall, as I wished to avoid bending over the bench all
day long, but that is too tall for the fuselage. I can easily cut 9
inches
off the bottom, and that should work.

I guess I should go back and read as many tips as I can about areas to
beef
up on the fuselage. Somewhere I made a list of all that stuff, but I have
not seen it in a couple of years.

Cheers!

Tim Hickey
R808


Tim Hickey
2658 300th St
Montrose, Iowa 52639
319 463-7047
319 795-2684







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[craig]

Congrats, Tim, on the progress.

Regarding your top skin, can you describe why you think it needs trimming?
Is it the flaperon fit? If so, many builders have had to place a spacer
beneath the flap hinges to move the flaperons away and this tends to fix any
rubbing. BTW, if this is the case, hold off on deciding what thickness of
spacer to use until the flaperons are covered and painted as they get
"thicker". I think this group or my manual called for an 1/8" spacer.
Craig


----- Original Message -----
From: <tjhickey@iowatelecom.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 5:54 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Wing Completion:

Greetings to all Rebelers:

I, at last, can report that wing 2 is complete. I had hoped to complete
this one by the end of 2010, but as you all know, stuff happens. Since I
started this Murphy project I have lost my mom, one aunt who lived in
Wisconsin, and in early January I lost another aunt. With Mom and the most
recent aunt I had duties as Executor of the estates. As one article about
the duties of being an executor states, " if you can avoid being an
executor, do." At this point I agree. I am about out of prior generation
relatives, so maybe progress on the Murphy can hit the express lane.

I pressure tested the wing with air using a 8" water column head, and
while
this is not a lot of air pressure, it seemed to me to be enough to test
the
integrity of the tank. The tank held pressure for about 12 hours, and I
consider that to be good enough.
I have discovered that it looks like I am going to have to trim the upper
skin to clear the flaperons. I don't quite understand this, as I don't
recall having any issue with interference on the right wing, but I sure do
on the left. Could it be possible that there is some difference between
the
left and the right?
On both wings I have left the top rear skin un-riveted, as I always like
to
keep my options open for as long as possible. When I was building my
Zenith
CH300 25 years ago, I had so many parts clecoed together that I finally
realized that I was going to have to use some rivets so I could get my
clecos back for use in other areas.

So if I do have to trim the skin at least I can pull it off the wing and
get
it on the bench.

I have spent the last several days cleaning up the mess I have made in the
garage, and next I think I need to cut the table legs down a bit. I built
the table 39 inches tall, as I wished to avoid bending over the bench all
day long, but that is too tall for the fuselage. I can easily cut 9
inches
off the bottom, and that should work.

I guess I should go back and read as many tips as I can about areas to
beef
up on the fuselage. Somewhere I made a list of all that stuff, but I have
not seen it in a couple of years.

Cheers!

Tim Hickey
R808


Tim Hickey
2658 300th St
Montrose, Iowa 52639
319 463-7047
319 795-2684







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[Bob Patterson]

Hi Tim !

Good to hear of your progress ! Keep rivetting - it's worth it !!

Don't forget that the polyester batting on the leading edge of the
flapperons (essential...) will make them a bit larger, as well.

For many years, the fix for clearance was to put a 12 foot length
of 2 x 4 through a table saw, cutting a 2" - 3" deep slot the full length.
Then slide it over the trailing edge, and, with a couple of helping
hands, gently lift the trailing edge a bit - just enough of a bend to
give the desired clearance. This is FAR better than ending up
with the wavy top skin that comes from trying to cut or bend in
small sections,

If you really want to trim, use that slotted wood as a guide,
and run a Dremel tool vertically along the trailing edge, to
remove just a bit, for clearance.

Glider pilots use wide Teflon tape on the tops of ailerons, so
the top wing skin slides smoothly on the ailerons, leaving
no gap for airflow to spoil performance .... It's not expensive....

Most of the Ontario Mods are in the fuselage:

There are lots of little things on the fuselage - replace ALL 8
corner wraps with FUS-70's -- the FUS-10's are a bit thin....
Replace the door frame channels with ST-28's -- use the leftover
ST-31's under the floor & baggage area -- and maybe a couple
vertically behind the FUS-26's under the door (of course, the
FUS-25 & 26 are replaced with copies in .032, as well).
Double up on the FUS-30 at the rear - you can trim a bit off
the front, but it should extend ahead of the front tailspring
bolt, and catch all the top row rivets. Slather lots of EP-430/431
epoxy primer in between the 2 pieces & use a few extra rivets.

There is a factory bulletin about a heavier plate to join the
top rear horizontal bulkhead to the rudder post, as well as
using 3 larger rivets to secure it.

There should be pictures of these in the FILES section.
You can always drop me a note for more details ....

That should keep you out of mischief for a while ! ;-)

We're off to Sun 'n Fun this Saturday or Sunday, if all
goes well. Looking forward to seeing everybody there
for the Tuesday March 29th afternoon/evening Get Together !

--

......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
bobp@pattersys.com
http://www.Pattersys.com
http://www.amway.ca/BobPatterson

Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender
and do not necessarily reflect the views of any other entities or persons.
Any action taken as a result of the contents of this email is totally the
responsibility of the reader.


On March 16, 2011 09:54:41 pm tjhickey@iowatelecom.net wrote:

Greetings to all Rebelers:

I, at last, can report that wing 2 is complete. I had hoped to complete
this one by the end of 2010, but as you all know, stuff happens. Since I
started this Murphy project I have lost my mom, one aunt who lived in
Wisconsin, and in early January I lost another aunt. With Mom and the most
recent aunt I had duties as Executor of the estates. As one article about
the duties of being an executor states, " if you can avoid being an
executor, do." At this point I agree. I am about out of prior generation
relatives, so maybe progress on the Murphy can hit the express lane.

I pressure tested the wing with air using a 8" water column head, and while
this is not a lot of air pressure, it seemed to me to be enough to test the
integrity of the tank. The tank held pressure for about 12 hours, and I
consider that to be good enough.
I have discovered that it looks like I am going to have to trim the upper
skin to clear the flaperons. I don't quite understand this, as I don't
recall having any issue with interference on the right wing, but I sure do
on the left. Could it be possible that there is some difference between the
left and the right?
On both wings I have left the top rear skin un-riveted, as I always like to
keep my options open for as long as possible. When I was building my Zenith
CH300 25 years ago, I had so many parts clecoed together that I finally
realized that I was going to have to use some rivets so I could get my
clecos back for use in other areas.

So if I do have to trim the skin at least I can pull it off the wing and
get it on the bench.

I have spent the last several days cleaning up the mess I have made in the
garage, and next I think I need to cut the table legs down a bit. I built
the table 39 inches tall, as I wished to avoid bending over the bench all
day long, but that is too tall for the fuselage. I can easily cut 9 inches
off the bottom, and that should work.

I guess I should go back and read as many tips as I can about areas to beef
up on the fuselage. Somewhere I made a list of all that stuff, but I have
not seen it in a couple of years.

Cheers!

Tim Hickey
R808


Tim Hickey
2658 300th St
Montrose, Iowa 52639
319 463-7047
319 795-2684

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[Ken]

A router with a carbide formica laminate trimming bit also does a good
job of trimming the skin without stretching the edge and causing
waviness. Those bits have a ball bearing that will nicely run along a
guide board (or table edge). For small trims even a belt sander can
remove significant material.
Ken

Congrats on getting that wing done and since your skins are still loose you
should be able to do some bolt change/shim on those flaperon brackets to get
skin clearance, if you didn't use anchor nuts like have suggested over the
years. If you do have to trim it.. find someone with a 12' shear and a few
guys to help you hold it in there with the wing upside down. There is just
enough overhang to get it in a shear and have the fingers hold the skin.
Snipping by hand.. you won't like the look!

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[wayne.pederson]

I have built an entire airplane with a carbide formica laminate trimming bit

Wayne Pederson



On 3/17/2011 3:34 AM, klehman@albedo.net wrote to rebel-builders:

-> A router with a carbide formica laminate trimming bit also does a good
-> job of trimming the skin without stretching the edge and causing
-> waviness. Those bits have a ball bearing that will nicely run along a
-> guide board (or table edge). For small trims even a belt sander can
-> remove significant material.
-> Ken
->
-> >
-> > Congrats on getting that wing done and since your skins are still loose
you
-> > should be able to do some bolt change/shim on those flaperon brackets
to get
-> > skin clearance, if you didn't use anchor nuts like have suggested over
the
-> > years. If you do have to trim it.. find someone with a 12' shear and a few
-> > guys to help you hold it in there with the wing upside down. There is just
-> > enough overhang to get it in a shear and have the fingers hold the skin.
-> > Snipping by hand.. you won't like the look!




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[Bob Palmer]

Snipping by hand.. you won't like the look!

This may be common knowledge but after snipping use a straight body
file, the type you would use for Bondo (body filler). I use one with a
guard I made by forming a piece of aluminum around the blade in a U
shape so the edges stick down about 3/16". That will help to keep it on
the work.

Bob.



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[Ralph Baker]

That is a Vixen file. It has large curved teeth.
Ralph Baker

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Palmer" <rtpalmer@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2011 8:35 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Wing Completion:

Snipping by hand.. you won't like the look!

This may be common knowledge but after snipping use a straight body
file, the type you would use for Bondo (body filler). I use one with a
guard I made by forming a piece of aluminum around the blade in a U
shape so the edges stick down about 3/16". That will help to keep it on
the work.

Bob.



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