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[rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
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Bob Palmer

[rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles

Post by Bob Palmer » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:35 pm

Van's Lycoming 320 kit
<http://vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog ... ine-baffle>




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rick greenwood

[rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles

Post by rick greenwood » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:35 pm

Hi Alan, I have the same set up as you and used Van' Aircraft cowl baffles and they worked very well(the kit).Good instructions,no problems putting them together,the price ? You'll save a lot of time over the plans only option.Cheers
Rick 233R
Subject: [rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2011 08:48:04 -0900
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com





Begin forwarded message:
From: rebel@dcsol.com (Rebel)
Date: February 11, 2011 6:22:48 AM AKST
To: mike.davis@dcsol.com
Subject: Murphy Rebel baffles
Hi Mike ,I am building a Murphy Rebel with a lyc 0-320 with a fibreglass
highspeed cowling .I am about to make the baffles ,I have no patterns ,is
there any available.Can you help,cheers Alan Godfrey.
(godfrey@baymead.freeserve.co.uk)


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drewjan

[rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles

Post by drewjan » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:35 pm

I never got any instructions with my vans baffle kit but it wasn't hard to figure out where all the pieces went. A very good kit I recommend it. If you really want to go from scratch I think there's patterns in the Tony Bingellis book on engines.
Sent on the TELUS Mobility network with BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: rick greenwood <rgreenwood@hotmail.ca>
Sender: mike.davis@dcsol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2011 21:02:16
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Reply-to: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles


Hi Alan, I have the same set up as you and used Van' Aircraft cowl baffles and they worked very well(the kit).Good instructions,no problems putting them together,the price ? You'll save a lot of time over the plans only option.Cheers
Rick 233R
Subject: [rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2011 08:48:04 -0900
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com





Begin forwarded message:
From: rebel@dcsol.com (Rebel)
Date: February 11, 2011 6:22:48 AM AKST
To: mike.davis@dcsol.com
Subject: Murphy Rebel baffles
Hi Mike ,I am building a Murphy Rebel with a lyc 0-320 with a fibreglass
highspeed cowling .I am about to make the baffles ,I have no patterns ,is
there any available.Can you help,cheers Alan Godfrey.
(godfrey@baymead.freeserve.co.uk)


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Walter Klatt

[rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles

Post by Walter Klatt » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:35 pm

With my first engine (Lyc 320), I built my own baffles from plans. Can't
remember where I got them, might have been from the Tony Bingeles book. I
did about 3 iterations starting with scrap .020 (easy to bend and shape) and
finishing off with .025 and .032 (in some places). Took about 3 months to
finish, so unless you have lots of time on your hands, not worth the
trouble.

With my new 360 engine, just bought the Van's baffles,... much, much easier
with just a little fitting and trimming. My new engine was a bit more
complicated because I have the ECI tapered fin cylinders, but they (ECI) had
a good template for that, too, so worked out fine.

I am one of the few here that advocate oil coolers on the rear baffle. I get
super oil cooling with mine. I used to always have to tape it up in front to
keep from over cooling, which is a real pain here on the west coast, where
in the summer you often fly over cool coastal areas or in the interior where
it is very hot.

So last year, I did a simple little trap door on the rear of the cooler
which is cockpit adjustable. Works perfect. In winter and over cooler areas
in the summer, have it mostly closed all the time. There is just enough
leakage, so that it still lets my temps get up to 180 in the winter. But
with just the push of a knob, I get great cooling, even during the hottest
summer weather.

The other benefit is that after initial start-up, I keep the trap door
closed, and it shortens my warm-up to get the oil temps up before take-off.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2011 9:19 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles

I never got any instructions with my vans baffle kit but it wasn't hard to
figure out where all the pieces went. A very good kit I recommend it. If you
really want to go from scratch I think there's patterns in the Tony
Bingellis book on engines.
Sent on the TELUS Mobility network with BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: rick greenwood <rgreenwood@hotmail.ca>
Sender: mike.davis@dcsol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2011 21:02:16
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Reply-to: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles


Hi Alan, I have the same set up as you and used Van' Aircraft cowl baffles
and they worked very well(the kit).Good instructions,no problems putting
them together,the price ? You'll save a lot of time over the plans only
option.Cheers
Rick 233R
Subject: [rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2011 08:48:04 -0900
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com





Begin forwarded message:
From: rebel@dcsol.com (Rebel)
Date: February 11, 2011 6:22:48 AM AKST
To: mike.davis@dcsol.com
Subject: Murphy Rebel baffles
Hi Mike ,I am building a Murphy Rebel with a lyc 0-320 with a fibreglass
highspeed cowling .I am about to make the baffles ,I have no patterns
,is
there any available.Can you help,cheers Alan Godfrey.
(godfrey@baymead.freeserve.co.uk)


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Bob Palmer

[rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles

Post by Bob Palmer » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:35 pm

Just in case you hadn't noticed, the link I provided which has the 320
kit also has the option for the plans only @ $7.00. I concur with Walter
in that it is way too much effort when you can buy a kit for that price.
We bought Van's IO 360 kit and some of the part would be very difficult
to make. Well worth the price in my opinion.

Bob.



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Gary Gustafson

[rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles

Post by Gary Gustafson » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:35 pm

I just finished re-measuring and weighing N52GG this past
weekend and after doing so, I decided to look at W&B emails
in the Murphy Rebel builders section. I came across the
following email which now bothers me from several days ago.
______________________________________________
On Date: 2/3/2011 4:33 PM the following email was posted by
Charlie E

Jesse
A couple years back I asked a similar question to MAM.
The answer I got from Darryl Murphy was:

Hello Charlie
I think the confusion is that the data point (center of axle)
is approximately 1.15" aft of the leading edge. 20% of 60" = 12",
12" - 1.15" = 10.85" A.O.D. (aft of datum).
Hope this helps.
Cheers Darryl"
_________________________________

The concern is that is 1.25" ahead of the leading edge of
the wing, not 1.15" aft of the leading edge. That is a difference
of 2.45". WOW. I had 2 certified aircraft mechanics doing the
measurements and they were done twice with almost (less than .2")
when the other person did his measurements. So did Darryl make a
mistake in his response??? My plane was built to the manual so
I do not understand that there could be that much difference.

Anyway this should promote an interesting discussion.

Gary G




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Charlie Eubanks

[rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles

Post by Charlie Eubanks » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:35 pm

Hello Gary
The info on the data point can also be found in the Pilots Operating Manual
pg 3 and in Murphy's Technical Bulletin 041098rb both of which I believe can
be found on Bob Patterson web site. The info is a little hidden and easy to
miss i.e. First the manual says that 20% of the 60" cord is 10.85".
obviously 20% of 60" is 12". In order to find the correct datum point you
have to subtract the distance from the wings leading edge to the center of
the axle, or 12" minus 1.15" = 10.85". If for some reason the measured
distance from your leading edge to your axle center were different than
1.15", you would have to subtract that figure from 12" to find the datum
point, or move your axle. Hope this helps.
Charlie

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Gustafson" <gargus@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2011 5:56 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Fwd: Murphy Rebel baffles

I just finished re-measuring and weighing N52GG this past
weekend and after doing so, I decided to look at W&B emails
in the Murphy Rebel builders section. I came across the
following email which now bothers me from several days ago.
______________________________________________
On Date: 2/3/2011 4:33 PM the following email was posted by
Charlie E

Jesse
A couple years back I asked a similar question to MAM.
The answer I got from Darryl Murphy was:

Hello Charlie
I think the confusion is that the data point (center of axle)
is approximately 1.15" aft of the leading edge. 20% of 60" = 12",
12" - 1.15" = 10.85" A.O.D. (aft of datum).
Hope this helps.
Cheers Darryl"
_________________________________

The concern is that is 1.25" ahead of the leading edge of
the wing, not 1.15" aft of the leading edge. That is a difference
of 2.45". WOW. I had 2 certified aircraft mechanics doing the
measurements and they were done twice with almost (less than .2")
when the other person did his measurements. So did Darryl make a
mistake in his response??? My plane was built to the manual so
I do not understand that there could be that much difference.

Anyway this should promote an interesting discussion.

Gary G




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