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Wing assembly

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allsure

Wing assembly

Post by allsure » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:26 pm

G'day Roger

Thanks for your response.

An RV1414 could be used there but owing to the combined thicknesses it does
not have much grip.

I look forward to hearing what the factory suggest as the fix.

Regards

Ian Donaldson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger & Alice Hoffman" <rognal@continet.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Cc: <allsure@iprimus.com.au>
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 2:29 AM
Subject: Wing assembly

Ian,

I still have had no response yet from MAM regarding the center hole in the
vertical flange of the bearing base.

I did have another builder email me directly about this. He is also
currently working on the wing and had the same question about this
particular hole. He emailed MAM and Brian advised him to "use Avex for
the hole that picks up the bearing base, probably an RV1414".

Thought I'd pass that info along to you.

Roger #687R
Eugene, OR USA


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Wayne G. O'Shea

Wing assembly

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:27 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 163 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 21:42:52 on 13 Oct 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


With reference to previous discussions about the Rebel wings inner torque
tube bearing bases vertical flange center rivet hole (that is called for in
the newer manuals), MAM has posted the following in their "Tech Notes".

The instructions in Chapter 8.9 para 6 call for the center hole of the
vertical flange on the inboard bearing base to go through the rear spar
attach bracket. THIS IS OPTIONAL and can be substituted by countersinking
the backing plate and using a RV4412 rivet.

Regards,
Wayne G.O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca


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Roger & Alice Hoffman

Wing Assembly

Post by Roger & Alice Hoffman » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:27 pm

Ian and others,

With regard to Ian Donaldson's question posted on 9/26/00 regarding the rear
wing spar attach brackets/backing plate/torque tube bearing assembly.....

MAM has posted a response/update on their website at
http://www.murphyair.com/technotes.htm . While it doesn't address the
original question of what fastener to use through the attach bracket, it
provides an option for those who haven't drilled through them yet. Since
I've already drilled through mine, I'm going to assume a rivet of the
appropriate dia/length will be sufficient.

FWIW.

Roger #687R
Eugene, OR USA

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Wayne G. O'Shea

Wing assembly

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:35 pm

Ian, you are only placing the extra control horn <JUST> to drill the extra hole. This horn is then marked for the side it was drilled for and is used on the outboard end of the cabin's torque tube. The extra hole you drill is to allow 2 bolts to hold the wing and cabin horns together after you install the wings. You <DO NOT> need a captive nut inside the torque tube on the wing. You <WILL> install one in the cabin outboard tube plug though and install a stud (bolt with head cut off) into it to locate the cabin tube into the open hole on the wing tube.

BTW, did you get those one lug anchor nuts I sent you installed okay, on your rear spar, to hold your flaperon hinge brackets on??

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: allsure (allsure@iprimus.com.au)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 9:42 AM
Subject: Wing assembly


G'day

I'm confused!

I am assembling the wing and I have the split flap option. The manual gives details of the full span flaperons but makes no mention of assembling the flaps.

I have used the template provided to set the ailerons, but I do not understand just how the control horns(CC43) are asembled.
The manual says to assemble a CC43 onto the end plug and drill 8 #11holes, and then temporarily bolt another horn onto the first one and drill a further #11 hole near the end. As I then understand you rivet the first horn on, and then bolt the second one to it.
Questions:
If the root control horn is riveted to the end plug first, does the second horn just get bolted on over the rivet heads?
How do you manage to put a bolt in the centre of the horn, to hold both together, when there is no captive nut and the parts are riveted together?
Should I put a captive nut in?
Why is the second horn not riveted to the first at the end plug?
I look forward to some help

Regards

Ian Donaldson

rebelair

Wing assembly

Post by rebelair » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:35 pm

Hi Ian

Your last line is an interesting thought but Wayne may have something to say about that! I know we are friends but...

Brian #328R
-----Original Message-----
From: allsure [mailto:allsure@iprimus.com.au]
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 11:07 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: Re: Wing assembly


G'day Wayne

Thanks for your reply. I really appreciate your help.I just knew there would be an easy answer to my problem!
The manual is not at all clear on just what should be done!

Yes thanks I received the one arm lug nuts and have installed them without any problem. This is an ideal alternative to the factory method of mounting the aileron brackets. It makes adjustment of the necessary clearance a breeze, and if further maintenance is needed in the future you can get the brackets off. I can recommend this fix to all builders.
Every new builder should grab a handful of Wayne's nuts.

Thanks and regards

Ian Donaldson



----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea (oifa@irishfield.on.ca)
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: Wing assembly


Ian, you are only placing the extra control horn <JUST> to drill the extra hole. This horn is then marked for the side it was drilled for and is used on the outboard end of the cabin's torque tube. The extra hole you drill is to allow 2 bolts to hold the wing and cabin horns together after you install the wings. You <DO NOT> need a captive nut inside the torque tube on the wing. You <WILL> install one in the cabin outboard tube plug though and install a stud (bolt with head cut off) into it to locate the cabin tube into the open hole on the wing tube.

BTW, did you get those one lug anchor nuts I sent you installed okay, on your rear spar, to hold your flaperon hinge brackets on??

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca


Wayne G. O'Shea

Wing assembly

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:35 pm

Your right Brian, there are a very few on this list of the "gender" that I would even think of allowing that to happen. Although my wife may be highly opposed to the idea all together!

Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: rebelair (rebelair@idirect.com)
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 11:50 PM
Subject: RE: Wing assembly


Hi Ian

Your last line is an interesting thought but Wayne may have something to say about that! I know we are friends but...

Brian #328R
-----Original Message-----
From: allsure [mailto:allsure@iprimus.com.au]
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 11:07 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: Re: Wing assembly


G'day Wayne

Thanks for your reply. I really appreciate your help.I just knew there would be an easy answer to my problem!
The manual is not at all clear on just what should be done!

Yes thanks I received the one arm lug nuts and have installed them without any problem. This is an ideal alternative to the factory method of mounting the aileron brackets. It makes adjustment of the necessary clearance a breeze, and if further maintenance is needed in the future you can get the brackets off. I can recommend this fix to all builders.
Every new builder should grab a handful of Wayne's nuts.

Thanks and regards

Ian Donaldson



----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea (oifa@irishfield.on.ca)
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: Wing assembly


Ian, you are only placing the extra control horn <JUST> to drill the extra hole. This horn is then marked for the side it was drilled for and is used on the outboard end of the cabin's torque tube. The extra hole you drill is to allow 2 bolts to hold the wing and cabin horns together after you install the wings. You <DO NOT> need a captive nut inside the torque tube on the wing. You <WILL> install one in the cabin outboard tube plug though and install a stud (bolt with head cut off) into it to locate the cabin tube into the open hole on the wing tube.

BTW, did you get those one lug anchor nuts I sent you installed okay, on your rear spar, to hold your flaperon hinge brackets on??

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

allsure

Wing assembly

Post by allsure » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:35 pm

G'day

I'm confused!

I am assembling the wing and I have the split flap option. The manual gives details of the full span flaperons but makes no mention of assembling the flaps.

I have used the template provided to set the ailerons, but I do not understand just how the control horns(CC43) are asembled.
The manual says to assemble a CC43 onto the end plug and drill 8 #11holes, and then temporarily bolt another horn onto the first one and drill a further #11 hole near the end. As I then understand you rivet the first horn on, and then bolt the second one to it.
Questions:
If the root control horn is riveted to the end plug first, does the second horn just get bolted on over the rivet heads?
How do you manage to put a bolt in the centre of the horn, to hold both together, when there is no captive nut and the parts are riveted together?
Should I put a captive nut in?
Why is the second horn not riveted to the first at the end plug?
I look forward to some help

Regards

Ian Donaldson

Bob Patterson

Wing assembly

Post by Bob Patterson » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:35 pm

Hi Ian !

Just a side-thought .... While you're building the flapperon
system, make sure you incorporate whatever you need to convert BACK
FROM split flaps to the original flapperons. EVERYBODY I know who
tried the split flaps has switched back to the flapperons - or wants to !

You end up with half the flaps (because the max. deflection stays
the same at 18 degrees), and half the ailerons ! Light, but lacking in
effectiveness for crosswinds .... The flapperons seem to work much better,
ESPECIALLY for float operations.

.....bobp

You ask : "Why do they sell the split flaps ??" - well, a bunch
of customers said - "<Cessna> did it, so it MUST be good. " !!
After all, they learned to fly on Cessnas ....

----------------------------orig.----------------------------------------
At 10:42 PM 12/16/00 +0800, you wrote:
G'day

I'm confused!

I am assembling the wing and I have the split flap option. The manual gives
details of the full span flaperons but makes no mention of assembling the flaps.
I have used the template provided to set the ailerons, but I do not
understand just how the control horns(CC43) are asembled.
The manual says to assemble a CC43 onto the end plug and drill 8 #11holes,
and then temporarily bolt another horn onto the first one and drill a
further #11 hole near the end. As I then understand you rivet the first horn
on, and then bolt the second one to it.
Questions:
If the root control horn is riveted to the end plug first, does the second
horn just get bolted on over the rivet heads?
How do you manage to put a bolt in the centre of the horn, to hold both
together, when there is no captive nut and the parts are riveted together?
Should I put a captive nut in?
Why is the second horn not riveted to the first at the end plug?
I look forward to some help

Regards

Ian Donaldson
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" http-equiv=Content-Type>
<META content="MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; G'day</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I'm confused!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I am assembling the wing and I have the split flap
option. The
manual gives details of the full span flaperons but makes no mention of
assembling the flaps.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I have used the template provided to set the ailerons,
but&nbsp;I do not understand just how&nbsp;the control horns(CC43) are
asembled.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>The manual says to assemble a CC43 onto the end plug and
drill
8 #11holes, and then temporarily bolt another horn onto the first one and
drill</FONT><FONT size=2>&nbsp;a further #11 hole near the end. As I then
understand you rivet the first horn on, and then bolt the second one to
it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Questions:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>If the root control&nbsp;horn is riveted to the end plug
first, does the second horn just get bolted on over the rivet
heads?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>How do you manage to put a bolt in the centre of the
horn, to
hold both together,</FONT><FONT size=2>&nbsp;when there is no captive nut and
the parts are riveted together?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Should I put a captive nut in?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Why is the second horn not riveted to the first at the end
plug?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I look forward to some help</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Regards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Ian Donaldson</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>
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allsure

Wing assembly

Post by allsure » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:35 pm

G'day Wayne

Thanks for your reply. I really appreciate your help.I just knew there would be an easy answer to my problem!
The manual is not at all clear on just what should be done!

Yes thanks I received the one arm lug nuts and have installed them without any problem. This is an ideal alternative to the factory method of mounting the aileron brackets. It makes adjustment of the necessary clearance a breeze, and if further maintenance is needed in the future you can get the brackets off. I can recommend this fix to all builders.
Every new builder should grab a handful of Wayne's nuts.

Thanks and regards

Ian Donaldson



----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea (oifa@irishfield.on.ca)
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: Wing assembly


Ian, you are only placing the extra control horn <JUST> to drill the extra hole. This horn is then marked for the side it was drilled for and is used on the outboard end of the cabin's torque tube. The extra hole you drill is to allow 2 bolts to hold the wing and cabin horns together after you install the wings. You <DO NOT> need a captive nut inside the torque tube on the wing. You <WILL> install one in the cabin outboard tube plug though and install a stud (bolt with head cut off) into it to locate the cabin tube into the open hole on the wing tube.

BTW, did you get those one lug anchor nuts I sent you installed okay, on your rear spar, to hold your flaperon hinge brackets on??

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

LisaFly99

Wing assembly

Post by LisaFly99 » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:35 pm

In a message dated 12/18/00 6:43:23 AM Central Standard Time,
allsure@iprimus.com.au writes:

As an aside just what do the fairings for the wing struts look like? Are
they ready made or do I need to fabricate them?


Ian
The wing strut fairings you make out of flat stock aluminum. Some where in
the manual theirs a full size pattern. It's close but needs to be fine tuned
to you're application.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460 N414D

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Wayne G. O'Shea

Wing assembly

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:35 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 173 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 19:48:09 on 18 Dec 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Ian, the earlier Rebels came with fiberglass "cuffs" for the strut to wing,
and the strut to fuselage junctions. If you want a set I have LOTS of the
ugly things taking up space around here and would be happy to send you a set
if you paid the postage! The newer, cleaner, way to fair the strut ends is
(as Phil pointed out) to use flat sheet and a pattern available from MAM.
They used to sell a kit at $40 or so, but it sounds like it is included in
the manuals now (is it guys)? MAM was selling .016 material and a pattern. I
have found they come out nicer if you use .020 or even better with .025
material. Ian, I will e-mail you some pictures of the fairings privately so
we don't screw up the list with unsolicited pictures.

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "allsure" <allsure@iprimus.com.au>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: Wing assembly

G'day Bob

It's interesting what you have to say re flaps vs flapperons.

I purchased the kit with the split flap as an option because it seemed
like
a good idea at the time. I have had great difficulty with understanding
the
instructions in the manual and I assume that I am in fact building with
the
flaps. Could you please explain the differences in the mechanical
operation
of the flaps, vs the flapperons. What would I need to do now so I could
retro fit the flapperons, or what would I need to do, to build the
flapperons now? I won't be using the Rebel for float plane flying. There
are very few lakes anywhere near me!

As an aside just what do the fairings for the wing struts look like? Are
they ready made or do I need to fabricate them? If they are ready-made it
looks like I have another shortage in my kit!

Thanks and regards


Ian Donaldson




----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: Wing assembly

Hi Ian !

Just a side-thought .... While you're building the flapperon
system, make sure you incorporate whatever you need to convert BACK
FROM split flaps to the original flapperons. EVERYBODY I know who
tried the split flaps has switched back to the flapperons - or wants to
!
You end up with half the flaps (because the max. deflection
stays
the same at 18 degrees), and half the ailerons ! Light, but lacking in
effectiveness for crosswinds .... The flapperons seem to work much
better,
ESPECIALLY for float operations.

.....bobp

You ask : "Why do they sell the split flaps ??" - well, a bunch
of customers said - "<Cessna> did it, so it MUST be good. " !!
After all, they learned to fly on Cessnas ....
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Legeorgen

Wing assembly

Post by Legeorgen » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:35 pm

Ian,

I understand you can make the strut fairing out of lexan as well, as it is
easier to see through for drilling and paints up good.

Bruce G 357
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LisaFly99

Wing assembly

Post by LisaFly99 » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:35 pm

In a message dated 12/18/00 6:48:41 PM Central Standard Time,
oifa@irishfield.on.ca writes:

(as Phil pointed out) to use flat sheet and a pattern available from MAM.
They used to sell a kit at $40 or so


WAYNE
Thanks for jarring my memory I think I did order the fairing kit from MAM And
got some sheet aluminum and paper patterns. Da. I may still have the paper
patterns if Ian would like them I'll try to find them. And send them off.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460 N414D

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rebelair

Wing assembly

Post by rebelair » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:35 pm

Hi Ian

Just to add my 2 cents worth to Bob's. In flying the Rebel, I have found
that I often need all of the cross wind control I can get from the
ailerons/flapperons. There are a number of times that I wish that I had
more. I would NEVER want to reduce the effectiveness of the
aileron/flapperon combination for cross wind landings.

As an alternative to this, I would suggest strongly that you consider Angus
Mackenzie's STOL kit as a much more suitable alternative to split flaps.
There is no question in my mind that 1/ You need all the effectiveness of
the ailerons as I have just stated and 2/ that the only real problem you
have to watch out for is the serious sink rate that can develop if you are
either not watching your short final speed or are trying to reduce
intentionally your on final approach speed in order to keep the landing roll
out as short as possible. Item 2 is manageable, I am not trying to scare
you but when you are first starting to fly your Rebel, you must be well
aware that this can take place & could bite you under gusty landing
conditions.

I myself thought about the split flap idea while building but am very glad
that I listened to the people who are already flying their Rebels.

This is now a no-brainer for me. Forget the splits!

Don't you love these unopinionated Rebel builders/flyers!

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson [mailto:bob.patterson@canrem.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 7:45 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: Re: Wing assembly



Hi Ian !

Just a side-thought .... While you're building the flapperon
system, make sure you incorporate whatever you need to convert BACK
FROM split flaps to the original flapperons. EVERYBODY I know who
tried the split flaps has switched back to the flapperons - or wants to !

You end up with half the flaps (because the max. deflection stays
the same at 18 degrees), and half the ailerons ! Light, but lacking in
effectiveness for crosswinds .... The flapperons seem to work much better,
ESPECIALLY for float operations.

.....bobp

You ask : "Why do they sell the split flaps ??" - well, a bunch
of customers said - "<Cessna> did it, so it MUST be good. " !!
After all, they learned to fly on Cessnas ....

----------------------------orig.----------------------------------------
At 10:42 PM 12/16/00 +0800, you wrote:
G'day

I'm confused!

I am assembling the wing and I have the split flap option. The manual gives
details of the full span flaperons but makes no mention of assembling the
flaps.
I have used the template provided to set the ailerons, but I do not
understand just how the control horns(CC43) are asembled.
The manual says to assemble a CC43 onto the end plug and drill 8 #11holes,
and then temporarily bolt another horn onto the first one and drill a
further #11 hole near the end. As I then understand you rivet the first horn
on, and then bolt the second one to it.
Questions:
If the root control horn is riveted to the end plug first, does the second
horn just get bolted on over the rivet heads?
How do you manage to put a bolt in the centre of the horn, to hold both
together, when there is no captive nut and the parts are riveted together?
Should I put a captive nut in?
Why is the second horn not riveted to the first at the end plug?
I look forward to some help

Regards

Ian Donaldson
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" http-equiv=Content-Type>
<META content="MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; G'day</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I'm confused!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I am assembling the wing and I have the split flap
option. The
manual gives details of the full span flaperons but makes no mention of
assembling the flaps.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I have used the template provided to set the ailerons,
but&nbsp;I do not understand just how&nbsp;the control horns(CC43) are
asembled.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>The manual says to assemble a CC43 onto the end plug and
drill
8 #11holes, and then temporarily bolt another horn onto the first one and
drill</FONT><FONT size=2>&nbsp;a further #11 hole near the end. As I then
understand you rivet the first horn on, and then bolt the second one to
it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Questions:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>If the root control&nbsp;horn is riveted to the end plug
first, does the second horn just get bolted on over the rivet
heads?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>How do you manage to put a bolt in the centre of the
horn, to
hold both together,</FONT><FONT size=2>&nbsp;when there is no captive nut
and
the parts are riveted together?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Should I put a captive nut in?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Why is the second horn not riveted to the first at the
end
plug?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I look forward to some help</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Regards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Ian Donaldson</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Bob Patterson

Wing assembly

Post by Bob Patterson » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:35 pm

Right on, Bruce !!

Lexan is a LOT easier to work than aluminum - you just bend it
cold in a brake, and get a very nice fairing !! It won't crack like
aluminum, and shouldn't cut into the strut with vibration, like the
aluminum does.... It's available in 1/16" thickness, which works
well, and even 1/32" for smaller fairings ...

If you paint it, you can leave a window unpainted, to facilitate
checking your bolts ! It also works well for fairing the main gear
legs & inner struts (you might want to use 1/8").

.....bobp

----------------------------orig.-----------------------------------------
At 09:46 PM 12/18/00 EST, you wrote:
Ian,

I understand you can make the strut fairing out of lexan as well, as it is
easier to see through for drilling and paints up good.

Bruce G 357
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