I too used the Van's baffle kit for my O320 and it had gaps at
the rear as you noted. I did not seal them until I did the first
annual and I have tried to note whether there is any additional
cooling (lower CHT's) and have seen little to none. So the amount
of cooling air loss is small compared to the amount of total
cooling air flow.
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jesse
Jenks
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 11:11 AM
To: Builders list
Subject: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
I'm fitting the Vans baffles and wondering if I need to use something like
RTV in the areas where the baffles meet the cooling fins and engine case to
seal up all the small gaps. For example where the rear baffles sit on the
back of the aft cylinders and around the cylinder attach studs/nuts.
This baffle kit is a great thing by the way...probably saves weeks of work
and despair if you tried to do it from scratch. It must be cool to have a
cnc machine.
Thanks.
Jesse
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[rebel-builders] baffle sealing
-
Dick Wampach
[rebel-builders] baffle sealing
I have the Van's baffle installed on the O-540 in my SR-3500, Modified to
fit my installation needs. It sure is a great way to go, The $260.00 was a
wise investment, probably saving 2 or more weeks labor.
Mooney has used the RTV to seal up every pin hole in order to keep their
engines cool enough. I doubt that it will be necessary to use the stuff.
RTV does not accept paint, so if that is a problem to deal with paint first
then apply it. House painting "paintable sealant" could be an acceptable
alternate, but I have not tried it.
Dick Wampach SR-108 N331RW
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Gustafson
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 9:10 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
I too used the Van's baffle kit for my O320 and it had gaps at
the rear as you noted. I did not seal them until I did the first annual and
I have tried to note whether there is any additional cooling (lower CHT's)
and have seen little to none. So the amount of cooling air loss is small
compared to the amount of total
cooling air flow.
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jesse
Jenks
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 11:11 AM
To: Builders list
Subject: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
I'm fitting the Vans baffles and wondering if I need to use something like
RTV in the areas where the baffles meet the cooling fins and engine case to
seal up all the small gaps. For example where the rear baffles sit on the
back of the aft cylinders and around the cylinder attach studs/nuts. This
baffle kit is a great thing by the way...probably saves weeks of work and
despair if you tried to do it from scratch. It must be cool to have a cnc
machine. Thanks. Jesse
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
fit my installation needs. It sure is a great way to go, The $260.00 was a
wise investment, probably saving 2 or more weeks labor.
Mooney has used the RTV to seal up every pin hole in order to keep their
engines cool enough. I doubt that it will be necessary to use the stuff.
RTV does not accept paint, so if that is a problem to deal with paint first
then apply it. House painting "paintable sealant" could be an acceptable
alternate, but I have not tried it.
Dick Wampach SR-108 N331RW
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Gustafson
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 9:10 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
I too used the Van's baffle kit for my O320 and it had gaps at
the rear as you noted. I did not seal them until I did the first annual and
I have tried to note whether there is any additional cooling (lower CHT's)
and have seen little to none. So the amount of cooling air loss is small
compared to the amount of total
cooling air flow.
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jesse
Jenks
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 11:11 AM
To: Builders list
Subject: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
I'm fitting the Vans baffles and wondering if I need to use something like
RTV in the areas where the baffles meet the cooling fins and engine case to
seal up all the small gaps. For example where the rear baffles sit on the
back of the aft cylinders and around the cylinder attach studs/nuts. This
baffle kit is a great thing by the way...probably saves weeks of work and
despair if you tried to do it from scratch. It must be cool to have a cnc
machine. Thanks. Jesse
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-
Wayne G. O'Shea
[rebel-builders] baffle sealing
Jesse.. you don't want to seal the fins.. you just want enough of a bead
across the baffle edge to keep it from chewing into the cylinder fins.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 11:11 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
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across the baffle edge to keep it from chewing into the cylinder fins.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 11:11 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
I'm fitting the Vans baffles and wondering if I need to use something like
RTV in the areas where the baffles meet the cooling fins and engine case
to seal up all the small gaps. For example where the rear baffles sit on
the back of the aft cylinders and around the cylinder attach studs/nuts.
This baffle kit is a great thing by the way...probably saves weeks of work
and despair if you tried to do it from scratch. It must be cool to have a
cnc machine.
Thanks.
Jesse
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-
Jesse Jenks
[rebel-builders] baffle sealing
Ok, thanks guys.
Another engine question: For some reason I have one threaded stud on the oil filter pad that I need to remove so I can bolt on a 90* filter adapter with a 1 1/2" spacer. Any tricks for removing a 1/4" stud? I tried tightening two nuts on each other, but they still turned on the stud.
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Another engine question: For some reason I have one threaded stud on the oil filter pad that I need to remove so I can bolt on a 90* filter adapter with a 1 1/2" spacer. Any tricks for removing a 1/4" stud? I tried tightening two nuts on each other, but they still turned on the stud.
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 21:26:39 -0500
Jesse.. you don't want to seal the fins.. you just want enough of a bead
across the baffle edge to keep it from chewing into the cylinder fins.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 11:11 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
I'm fitting the Vans baffles and wondering if I need to use something like
RTV in the areas where the baffles meet the cooling fins and engine case
to seal up all the small gaps. For example where the rear baffles sit on
the back of the aft cylinders and around the cylinder attach studs/nuts.
This baffle kit is a great thing by the way...probably saves weeks of work
and despair if you tried to do it from scratch. It must be cool to have a
cnc machine.
Thanks.
Jesse
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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-
craig
[rebel-builders] baffle sealing
Vice-grips!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 7:01 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 7:01 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
Ok, thanks guys.
Another engine question: For some reason I have one threaded stud on the
oil filter pad that I need to remove so I can bolt on a 90* filter adapter
with a 1 1/2" spacer. Any tricks for removing a 1/4" stud? I tried
tightening two nuts on each other, but they still turned on the stud.
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 21:26:39 -0500
Jesse.. you don't want to seal the fins.. you just want enough of a bead
across the baffle edge to keep it from chewing into the cylinder fins.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 11:11 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
I'm fitting the Vans baffles and wondering if I need to use something
like
RTV in the areas where the baffles meet the cooling fins and engine
case
to seal up all the small gaps. For example where the rear baffles sit
on
the back of the aft cylinders and around the cylinder attach
studs/nuts.
This baffle kit is a great thing by the way...probably saves weeks of
work
and despair if you tried to do it from scratch. It must be cool to have
a
cnc machine.
Thanks.
Jesse
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Jesse Jenks
[rebel-builders] baffle sealing
I guess that's what I'll do Craig. I was thinking there might be an elegant way to do it...not that vice grips aren't elegant :)
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From: snowyrvr@mtaonline.net
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 09:05:25 -0900
Vice-grips!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 7:01 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
Ok, thanks guys.
Another engine question: For some reason I have one threaded stud on the
oil filter pad that I need to remove so I can bolt on a 90* filter adapter
with a 1 1/2" spacer. Any tricks for removing a 1/4" stud? I tried
tightening two nuts on each other, but they still turned on the stud.
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 21:26:39 -0500
Jesse.. you don't want to seal the fins.. you just want enough of a bead
across the baffle edge to keep it from chewing into the cylinder fins.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 11:11 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
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Wayne G. O'Shea
[rebel-builders] baffle sealing
You'll probably have no use for the stud anyhow.. but you may wanna try a
bit of heat on it if it doesn't come easy.. maybe it was loctite'd in !
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 4:52 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
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bit of heat on it if it doesn't come easy.. maybe it was loctite'd in !
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 4:52 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
I guess that's what I'll do Craig. I was thinking there might be an
elegant way to do it...not that vice grips aren't elegant :)
From: snowyrvr@mtaonline.net
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2010 09:05:25 -0900
Vice-grips!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 7:01 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] baffle sealing
Ok, thanks guys.
Another engine question: For some reason I have one threaded stud on
the
oil filter pad that I need to remove so I can bolt on a 90* filter
adapter
with a 1 1/2" spacer. Any tricks for removing a 1/4" stud? I tried
tightening two nuts on each other, but they still turned on the stud.
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