James, Thanks for that info. I am looking at their recommended 65-211
package, which would require their 5032 axle which has an industry standard
"Type 1" square bolt pattern. However, I'm particularly interested in your
comment about the availability of a Grove axle bolt hole pattern that fits
the spring gear holes. Robbie Grove told me yesterday that although the Type
1 standard square bolt pattern on his axle has 1.37" centers, MAM used
non-std. 1.375" axle hole centers on the spring gear, so the gear leg must
be match drilled from the Type 1 axle, leaving slightly elongated holes (for
the slightly smaller Type 1 rectangle) on the gear legs. He said it works
OK, but having to accept such a suboptimal result did give me pause.
I asked, and Grove is not able/willing to provide their axle with a custom
bolt pattern to fit the MAM spring gear pattern, so I was mulling other
options like match drilling both parts for slightly over-sized bolts, among
other ideas, that may result in better overall fit. So I look forward to
learning if you faced this sort of issue and what you did about it, or if
you got some other pattern from Grove that he didn't mention to me, or...?
As usual, I may be making more of an issue out of the bolt pattern
discrepancy than is warranted, so I'm eager to hear more specifics about
your experience.
For the short term, today I got two new pistons made at a local machine shop
(just $35 for the pair!) and along with new O-rings, I will experiment with
the existing bore to see if, after 1500 wet sanding, the pitting in the bore
can be minimized enough to work with the new piston and O-ring, or if the
pitting in the bore will cause leaks regardless. If it's OK, at least
through the piston travel associated with new disc pads, I'll use that in
the short term because it's clearly the easiest at the moment.
Longer term, I would like to move to a Grove setup depending on the bolt
pattern question. If I do go that way and drilling is required, I think I'd
want/need to take the gear off to do any match drilling in a drill press
instead of trying to do it in place on a jack. Probably a "duh" but in any
case, it would be more work than I want to do right now if I can make the
new pistons work in the existing bores. If they don't, I may even try
reaming the bores and getting a second set of new pistons, over-sized to fit
the slightly reamed bores... which probably wouldn't cost more than $50-60
to do, but might require different O-rings.... and on and on. Ha.
Bottom line, I'm hoping the new pistons and some work on the bores will
produce an adequate and inexpensive solution for the short term. Thanks
again in advance for your contributions to my research on this.
Onward.
Ron
254R
On Fri, Jun 4, 2010 at 7:51 PM, <
james.smith@dcsol.com> wrote:
Ron,
I upgraded to Grove Axles, wheels and brakes. They work well and have
a set that fit the bolt hole pattern on the spring gear. Axles were about
$65 and the wheels and brakes were $850 or so from Aircraft Spruce. I'll
try and dig up the actual part numbers yet tonight.
James Smith
Rebel #424
N414D
On 6/3/2010 10:25 AM,
rshannon@cruzcom.com wrote to rebel-builders:
-> Thanks, Drew. Do you have bungee or spring gear, and what size
wheels? Do
-> you recall which Matco brake model you are using?
->
-> On other fronts, I found a specific reference to 6" Murphy wheel,
brake and
-> combo assemblies and parts in a Cleveland (Parker) product guide, at*
->
http://tinyurl.com/2fh7gyu* , page 2-11, with details of the referenced
-> 30-60A brake assembly on pp. 4-22 and 4-23.
->
-> I'm also looking at Grove wheel & brake combo sets, including their
65-203
-> and 211. Craig Ramsey is using the latter on spring gear, I believe.
->
-> Ron
->
->
-> On Wed, Jun 2, 2010 at 9:25 PM, Drew Dalgleish
<
drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>wrote:
->
-> > The brakes on my rebel #274 are from matco. When I needed new
pads they
-> > were great to deal with.
-> >
-> >
->
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