with the top flaps opened out flat and make those flanges about 5/8 to 3/4"
wide. Make a slider plate for the top about 3/8 " wider than the box opening
out of .020 and steal a little knob off something you're not using and
attach it about 5/8 from the end. Make spacer strips for 3 sides (both long
sides and one end), from .025, that will give you the clearance for the
slider plate to slide under your panel deck. The slider plate will open and
close nicely and when it opens the plate just goes out into space past the
end of the rectangular box that you didn't install a spacer strip at. For
the forced air intake...I take a piece of light 1" tube and just flare the
end (by putting in a 1" hole through a wood block and peening the end over
with a mandrel/mallet) and rivet this into a hole in the bottom of the
"box". I feed it from a plate I put across my cabin heat input at the
firewall. The plate is spaced out to allow heat into the cabin.. but still
gets enough air flow to feed the defrost.
Other option that I just reinstalled into the wreck I am finishing up... a
couple small 12V computer fans in the deck.
Hydraulic gauge... with the plastic lines and MAM's cylinders I find that
100 psi is plenty to cycle and lock everything. You generally see 100 to 150
when cycling on the last few strokes and it's my "green range". I use a 300
PSI gauge.. as it nicely puts the needle at mid range/straight up for quick
visual checks.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "craig" <snowyrvr@mtaonline.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 12:45 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] More Questions
Anyone know a good source for a defrost vent? Also, I'm looking for a
hydraulic pressure gauge for the amphibs; can someone tell me the what
pressure range I need to cover?
Thanks in advance, Craig
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