[rebel-builders] seat stops

[Ken]

I drilled and tapped the full thickness (height) of the seat rail Ron.
All threads of the bolt are engaged and no movement is apparent.
Ken

Ron Shannon wrote:

The manual calls for drilling and tapping the seat rail for a 10-32 AN3 to
hold the stops. I'm assuming the idea is to just tap into the rail's I-beam,
not further into the bottom of the rail. Is the drill and tap method sound
for the long term? I'm dubious about a 32 thread in aluminum -- especially
where the thread grip exists on just two narrow faces of the rail's I-beam
-- and I'm not keen to add more holes to the rail if there's a better
alternative. Obviously, the stops are critical.

I've thought of cutting the threads off an AN3 and cross-drilling the grip
shank for a cotter pin -- a sort of clevis pin arrangement. The bolt would
inevitably be subject to some wear movement as the seat whacks the stop over
time, but the clevis bolt wouldn't pop out when the aluminum threads fail at
an inconvenient moment. Any other drawbacks? Or ideas?

Ron
254R

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[Ron Shannon]

Drilling and tapping into the bottom of the rail is certainly more secure.
Did you make multiple holes to accommodate different pilots?

Ron


On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 6:38 PM, Ken <klehman@albedo.net> wrote:

I drilled and tapped the full thickness (height) of the seat rail Ron.
All threads of the bolt are engaged and no movement is apparent.
Ken

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[Ken]

Ron
You've lost me here???
There is a stop at full forward and full aft seat position. I slide the
seat all the way aft to enter or exit the aircraft. The aft stop must be
removed to remove the seat from the aircraft. All other seat positions
are adjustable with the lever same as most cars.
Ken

Ron Shannon wrote:

Drilling and tapping into the bottom of the rail is certainly more secure.
Did you make multiple holes to accommodate different pilots?

Ron


On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 6:38 PM, Ken <klehman@albedo.net> wrote:

I drilled and tapped the full thickness (height) of the seat rail Ron.
All threads of the bolt are engaged and no movement is apparent.
Ken

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[Ron Shannon]

Yeah, eventually I realized that wasn't a very intelligent question -- which
happens with alarming frequency. Both the not too bright questions, and the
realizations. More of the former, and too slow with the latter. So thanks
for addressing it nevertheless.

I was thinking that a "safe" stop position -- short enough to maintain
foot-to-pedal reach -- would occur before the full aft track position, and
even that was just a worry wart guess. I really should have actually checked
my seats before over thinking this. They've been out of the plane so long
while I've been banging around in there that I've forgotten what's what.
They'll be back in there soon.

Ron


On Wed, Mar 24, 2010 at 9:06 AM, Ken <klehman@albedo.net> wrote:

Ron
You've lost me here???
There is a stop at full forward and full aft seat position. I slide the
seat all the way aft to enter or exit the aircraft. The aft stop must be
removed to remove the seat from the aircraft. All other seat positions
are adjustable with the lever same as most cars.
Ken

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[Ron Shannon]

Finished tapping these last night. Did you use something other than an AN3's
to hold the stops? Though all threads on the bolt can engage something, an
AN3 doesn't have enough thread to engage all the way through the bottom flat
section of the rail. I'd sure like to hold threads all the way through. It's
not easy to keep the tapped holes passing precisely through the center of
the vertical "I" beam of the rail.

Also, are the side legs of the stops cut short enough that the stops sit
flat on the top of the rail? Presumably that would be best. Probably another
"Duh" query.

Ron
254R


On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 6:38 PM, Ken <klehman@albedo.net> wrote:

I drilled and tapped the full thickness (height) of the seat rail Ron.
All threads of the bolt are engaged and no movement is apparent.
Ken

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[Ron Shannon]

Commercial? [Gasp!!] :) Eric Fogelin stopped in today and he had done
something similar.

Hope you had a good time at LAL, and were able to give the wanderer some
Ducky stick time on the way.

Ron


On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 5:53 PM, Ken <klehman@albedo.net> wrote:

Hi Ron
We're just back from LAL today.
I acquired some AN3-3A and -4A and -5A bolts for various places. I think
the -3 are almost fully threaded but any commercial 10-32 fully threaded
bolt would likely work.
Yes I cut the legs of the stops to rest on the bottom wide flange of the
rail
Ken

Ron Shannon wrote:

Finished tapping these last night. Did you use something other than an

AN3's

to hold the stops? Though all threads on the bolt can engage something,

an

AN3 doesn't have enough thread to engage all the way through the bottom

flat

section of the rail. I'd sure like to hold threads all the way through.

It's

not easy to keep the tapped holes passing precisely through the center of
the vertical "I" beam of the rail.

Also, are the side legs of the stops cut short enough that the stops sit
flat on the top of the rail? Presumably that would be best. Probably

another

"Duh" query.

Ron
254R

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[Ken]

Hi Ron
We're just back from LAL today.
I acquired some AN3-3A and -4A and -5A bolts for various places. I think
the -3 are almost fully threaded but any commercial 10-32 fully threaded
bolt would likely work.
Yes I cut the legs of the stops to rest on the bottom wide flange of the
rail
Ken

Ron Shannon wrote:

Finished tapping these last night. Did you use something other than an AN3's
to hold the stops? Though all threads on the bolt can engage something, an
AN3 doesn't have enough thread to engage all the way through the bottom flat
section of the rail. I'd sure like to hold threads all the way through. It's
not easy to keep the tapped holes passing precisely through the center of
the vertical "I" beam of the rail.

Also, are the side legs of the stops cut short enough that the stops sit
flat on the top of the rail? Presumably that would be best. Probably another
"Duh" query.

Ron
254R

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