us and we bought our kit in 2006.
Don't see any service bulletins on that either. MD-RA here should be the
same as Ontario so maybe there is a difference between the Elite and Rebel.
Bob 773E
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] cable guide rivets
The cable guides are made from Nylon 6 (not acetal/Delrin). I have 25
years
as the co-owner of an injection moulding company to know the difference
.... and yes the ones that MAM supplied are "off the shelf" hobby store
guides for landing gear mounts or the likes. That is a known and has been
for many years.... and there is nothing wrong with their usage for the
purpose at hand.
As for fracture..... haven't seen one yet in 15 years.. and I've installed
a
LOT of them. Have seen them ripped out of the floor, yet not broken. The
all
aluminum 7408 rivet does not have the the tension pull out capability of
the
RV1414 as they don't form a proper "shop" end... and FWIW.. I've never
seen
a RR7408 in a kit, so not sure when.. or why... the switch to them was
made,
or why. They generally get ripped out when someone panics on the brakes.
No
balancer cable between pedals.. so all the extra force while the guy
jumps
on both pedals tries to pull the cables straight.. and POP !
If you were building in Canada.. you would have to put pulleys at the
cabin
to tailcone transition... if the MDRA inspector is paying attention. They
have been snagging that issue in Ontario since 1994!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Palmer" <rtpalmer@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] cable guide rivets
It is great to have the varied opinions that come out on this board and
so
in that spirit I will offer mine.
I don't plan to do any stomping, I will save that for the Hoe-Down on
Saturday night, and I will do without the pulley add-on's.
Getting back to the original question. Because were short a couple of
"delrin" fairleads we went down to our local hobby shop and picked up
some,
by appearance, identical ones that are for a model airplane. In fact the
appearance of all of them seems to me, suggests that they are not
actually
"delrin" but delrin-like. If you ask me they look like they are somewhat
harder and capable of fracture and I would suggest that it could be the
reason for the all aluminum and larger rivet. Secondly, I don't believe I
will need to live a "charmed life" just to stick to the original plan.
....Just my opinion.
Bob 773E
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Shannon" <rshannon@cruzcom.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 12:02 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] cable guide rivets
I'm not going to do a pulley in the back, forward of the hole. There I
will
use a Delrin block fairlead on the bulkhead frame like Charlie did. I
think
that angle can be minimized, and the loads there are contained inside
not
only the fairlead, but also the bulkhead frame itself. I will also have
pulleys where the fuse angles in, at the back of the baggage area, as
Wayne
reminds.
At the forward door post, I didn't actually measure the angle from
rudder
pedal to the door post (yet) but it looked like more than 3 deg. to the
unaided eye. Mostly, it just looked like too much -- even if the first
fairlead was located halfway back under the door. Before coming back to
the
computer and this email a few minutes ago, I finished installing the
left
forward pulley and, notwithstanding the advice, which I really
appreciate,
I'm very glad I did. Looking at that angle the decision was not
difficult.
There are at least three reasons I wouldn't do this any other way, all
arising from personal experience, which may not be significant to
others.
Reason #1: Last summer I got to do some super duper spin recovery &
unusual
attitude training with Master CFI Rich Stowell, who wrote the book on
the
topic. (http://www.richstowell.com -- highly recommended.) Flying in
his
Decathlon, doing various spins for a couple hours from different
entries,
I
quickly learned the desirability of a rudder cable that you can really
stomp
on when you get the, uh... urge. As RIch was fond of saying, "Stomp on
it
like your life depends on it... because it does."
Reason #2: As mentioned earlier, I've also experienced what happens when
a
fairlead fails and the cable goes limp. Not pretty, don't want to go
there.
So even though with no pulleys at all Walter continues to lead a charmed
life [which, as a truly great guy he surely deserves!!] -- IMHO
fairleads
are for wires to slip through, not for any kind of twisting side loads.
A
fairlead failure is most likely to happen when you need it most. Stomp.
Reason #3: . It's something I don't want to worry about when I encounter
some unexpected wake turbulence and the plane is suddenly upside down,
down
low. Been there. Stomp.
Yes, forward pulleys add a little weight but... it is a control system
after
all, and for me, an extra smooth, heavy duty, worry free control cable
is
a
personal design requirement -- worth beefing up a little.
I also saw a similar (but cleaner) installation of forward door post
pulleys
on Craig Wall's web site (http://www.alaskanrebel.com -- great
workmanship
and info there!) and it looked so super that along with the all above,
the
forward pulley decision was pretty much a no brainer -- to me.
The left forward pulley doesn't interfere with leg room at all, because
it's
a good deal smaller than the aileron bell crank underneath. I haven't
installed the right side yet, but holding the parts in place, the pulley
is
small, only extending off the wall at most another 1-1/4" more than the
angled cable would otherwise, and I don't think it will be a problem.
Eric, as you know, we would love to have you visit whenever you can.
Fine
cuisine, luxurious accommodations, and valet service will be provided,
of
course. :)
Ron
254R
On Thu, Apr 1, 2010 at 9:23 PM, Eric Fogelin <elist@whidbey.com> wrote:
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