Well, tapping is a good plan...or riveting bases in and bolting to them (my
choice). Click-Bonds are great (I truly believe Ron gets a kickback from
the company evrytime he mentions them :) ) but be careful with the
preparation. The surface they go on has to be very clean or they won't
stick or stay stuck. I'm not sure you could do a good job from outside the
area.
Original Message:
-----------------
From:
schaumr@dcsol.com
Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 01:42:14 -0900
To:
rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] control column mount
I have yet to drill 3/16 holes into FUS05 for the right or left side, so
Wayne's
idea of tapping for AN3s is still totally doable for me. Wouldn't it be
nice
though, to have some really sturdy threads you'd never have to worry about
stripping?
This then got me thinking about Ron's ubiquitous clickbond
nutplates.....could
one "fish" some of these through the gear attach holes on either side of
the
FUS05s?
You would have to:
1) Stick some stiff wire through the intended 3/16 holes for the control
column
2) fish the wire inside FUS05 over to either side and out the gear attach
hole
3) thread or wrap it around the silicone "jig" that goes through the
nutplate
(with adhesive applied)
4) pull it through.
5) repeat for each AN3 nut (4 per FUS05 tube)
My floor is still not attached so the last center 3/16 holes that go
through the
floor skin are easy.
Sounds complicated, but the only thing to really watch is the edge
clearance
between the nutplates and the FUS05 tube vertical walls.
I'll bet Wayne is now screaming at his computer "...JUST TAP"EM AND GET ON
WITH IT!" :)
Cheers!
Rob
Rebel 786
On 2/6/2010 2:04 PM,
rshannon@cruzcom.com wrote to rebel-builders:
-> Thanks, Dave. Looks like a good fastener for many applications. I wasn't
-> familiar with these and am glad to know about them. However, personally I
-> think I'm going to go with the floor mounted angles because A) I have the
-> materials already, B) I won't have to drill larger holes into the carry
-> through (looks like the thin Key Locks with internal 10-32 thread need an
-> "I" drill (~0.267") hole for their 5/16" external thread), and C) I'll
have
-> "above ground" lock nuts that I can see.
->
-> Ron
-> 254R
->
->
-> On Sat, Feb 6, 2010 at 2:14 PM, David A. Ricker
<
daricker@ns.sympatico.ca>wrote:
->
-> > Ron, Guys
-> >
-> > If you already have drilled holes to deal with like Ron then you could
-> > put Key Lock Inserts onto the structure for the threaded hole.
-> >
http://www.mcmaster.com/#key-locking-inserts/=5pd9b3. I'm assuming
-> > there is enough thickness to accept the insert of course.
-> >
-> > For those who haven't seen them, Key Locks are basically a bushing with
-> > external and internal threads that can be used for repair of stripped
-> > threads or to give a stronger receptacle in materials like aluminum
-> > which are not great when tapped. The insert gives you a stronger
-> > connection in the parent material for your smaller size fastener. The
-> > inserts are threaded in place and the locking pins are driven between
-> > the parent material and the insert locking them in place. We use them
-> > at work in designing custom aluminum cranes.
-> >
-> > These aren't to be confused with Helicoils, different beast.
-> >
-> > Dave
-> >
-> >
->
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