I also routed the elevator Mac servo trim wire after everything was
completed. One hole in the forward mac servo recess out the front spar, a
grommet and then some nylon spiral wrap to protect the wire from chafing.
The wire runs in the forward D-section of the elevator.
I uploaded a photo showing how I put a bend in the wire to relieve strain
and repetitive bending on the wire where it exits the elevator and goes to
the tail. The photo is in the Elite-Electrical Systems area. This wire
barely moves through the full swing of the elvevator. With minor fairing
work, it also does not chafe on the fiberglass fairing.
Eric
-----Original Message-----
From:
mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:
mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 8:31 AM
To:
rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Trim Wiring
The multi conductor cable from MAC will likely last forever. It is 26 or
24 awg. The elevator does not move all that many full cycles for finely
stranded wire, especially if the cable does not have to flex at a tight
bend. My cable goes out the very aft end of the Rebel fuselage beside
the tail post and under the stab fairing then into the side of the
elevator. I put a connector inside the fuselage for removing the
elevator. Rubber grommets worked fine with an adel clamp at the fus exit
and access is no problem if the wire ever needs to be replaced. I will
be very surprised if the cable ever fails with such gentle bending. A
failed cable should be no big deal as the trim should stay where it is.
An unlikely short or a failed switch could drive it to an end position
but that is why we should mechanically limit the possible travel. I
merely used the outer hole in the trim tab horn.
All my fiberglass tips are fastened with nutplates or clipnuts. At 3.5
years and 320 hours I don't think I've actually removed any of them yet
but when I do it will not mess up the paint.
For wires in the fuselage I would recommend running them through
grommets in the bulkheads down the exposed sides of the fuselage where
possible. If buried in the floor or anywhere, smooth plastic conduit is
worth considering so that wires can be replaced or additional wires can
be installed. Sooner or later you will want another wire for some new
toy. Don't rule out running wires up the forward side of the door post,
over the top carry through, down through the roof, and then rearward
above the door frame. The windshield that goes aft over top of the
forward skylights on a Rebel leaves ample room to do this.
Ken
mikeh@dcsol.com wrote:
Hi all,
I've been starting to think about this too. Has anyone had trouble
with wire breakage due to the continuous movement of the elevator? I've
been thinking of using a couple of plug in connectors, one on the elevator
and the other probably on the horizontal bulkhead behind the fairing. This
would allow the easy removal of the elevator as well as easy replacement
of
that section of cable which may fail after many cyclings of the elevator.
I
may even keep a replacement part in the tool kit.
Easy removal of the elevator requires easy removal of the elevator
tip........... I'm still thinking on this one.
I had been thinking of running trim the cable up the fuse through
rubber grommets in holes in the bulkheads beneath the floor.
Any comments? Cheers Mike
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at:
https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe:
rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator:
mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at:
https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe:
rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator:
mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
