[rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)

[Jesse Jenks]

It has been a while since I drilled/reamed out all my wing mounting holes on my Rebel. I sure wish I would have done all of that drilling and reaming with the individual fittings clamped onto my drill press BEFORE they were incorporated into the fuselage/wing/struts. I don't know how others have fared doing these steps with a hand drill during wing install, but most of my bolt holes ended up off axis so that the bolt shaft is not perpendicular to the surfaces of the attach fittings. The problem is that if I torque the nuts it will apply a large force that will want to pop off the bolt head or shear the bolt. To remedy this I plan to spotface the holes at some point to create a proper seat for the bolt heads and nuts. Like I said, all this hassle could have been avoided by rounding up all the fittings and drilling/reaming them on the drill press before building the wings or fuselage. Then setting the dihedral angle would just be a matter of making the struts the right length. It is nea
r impossible to drill a

long straight hole in aluminum with a hand drill. These are the things in the manual that really piss me off: you get a whole page telling you how to debur and rivet, which you have already been doing for 5 years, and a critical step like this gets one sentence. I don't see any reason why you would want to wait until the wings and fuse are done to drill out these holes, but that seems to be the accepted way. For that matter, in hindsight I would drill/ream ALL bolt holes that I possibly could on the drill press and not wait until they were a permanent part of the airplane. One trick I got from a machinist friend to enlarge holes while keeping them as straight as possible with a hand drill is to step up with reamers, because reamers tend to stay on the axis of the hole better than drill bits. You need a bunch of expensive reamers though. My next plane will be perfect.

From: dgreaton@maine.rr.com
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Wing Install
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 22:28:01 -0500

Thanks Dick,

I do have a smart level and will make sure that I ream every thing for a
close fit.

Have a Happy New Year.

Dave Greaton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Wampach" <rwampach@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 10:09 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Wing Install

Don't forget the lift struts also get 5/8" bolts for a SR-3500.
Drill and final ream them to size when setting the 1* Dihedral on the
wings,
use a digital level if you have one down to 1-tenth degree.
A snug fit would be best for all 3 points if you have the equipment, be as
precise as you can.

Dick Wampach SR-108 N331RW

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Micheal
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:26 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Wing Install


Dave,

There's a STEEL bushing that goes in your wing main spar. Bolts used to
secure front attach point is AN10 for Moose, AN8 for Super Rebel.

Cheers,
Jeff


On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 4:12 PM, David R. Greaton
<dgreaton@maine.rr.com>wrote:

Hi All,

I'm getting ready to install my wings.

I'm confused. In the manual it says to drill to the final size on the
main spar attach 1/2". My main spar on the wing is already drilled to
3/4". What's up???

Thanks in advance,

Dave Greaton
SR/Moose 189



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[Charlie Eubanks]

Hi Jesse

I understand your frustration. No doubt if you can drill/ream you parts in
your drill press that the way to go. Some times that just not possible as
you well know. One of the tools we use to build for ourselves when I was a
tool & die maker 40 + years ago was what we called a "bench block".
Basically it was a block of steel machined square and bored to accept
interchangeable hardened drill bushings with a common OD but with various ID's.
To use the "bench block" it was clamped in position with the required size
bushing to fit either a drill, reamer or tap to guide your tool
perpendicular to your work. You don't have to build a fancy heat treated
tool to guide a few holes. With your drill press; drill and/or ream the
whole size you need in a piece of scrap CRS, then clamp or hold in place and
use it to help guide your hand drill. Usually works for me.

Charlie E 802R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 12:56 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)

It has been a while since I drilled/reamed out all my wing mounting holes
on my Rebel. I sure wish I would have done all of that drilling and
reaming with the individual fittings clamped onto my drill press BEFORE
they were incorporated into the fuselage/wing/struts. I don't know how
others have fared doing these steps with a hand drill during wing install,
but most of my bolt holes ended up off axis so that the bolt shaft is not
perpendicular to the surfaces of the attach fittings. The problem is that
if I torque the nuts it will apply a large force that will want to pop off
the bolt head or shear the bolt. To remedy this I plan to spotface the
holes at some point to create a proper seat for the bolt heads and nuts.
Like I said, all this hassle could have been avoided by rounding up all
the fittings and drilling/reaming them on the drill press before building
the wings or fuselage. Then setting the dihedral angle would just be a
matter of making the struts the right length. It is nea
r impossible to drill a

long straight hole in aluminum with a hand drill. These are the things in
the manual that really piss me off: you get a whole page telling you how
to debur and rivet, which you have already been doing for 5 years, and a
critical step like this gets one sentence. I don't see any reason why you
would want to wait until the wings and fuse are done to drill out these
holes, but that seems to be the accepted way. For that matter, in
hindsight I would drill/ream ALL bolt holes that I possibly could on the
drill press and not wait until they were a permanent part of the airplane.
One trick I got from a machinist friend to enlarge holes while keeping
them as straight as possible with a hand drill is to step up with reamers,
because reamers tend to stay on the axis of the hole better than drill
bits. You need a bunch of expensive reamers though. My next plane will be
perfect.

From: dgreaton@maine.rr.com
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Wing Install
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 22:28:01 -0500

Thanks Dick,

I do have a smart level and will make sure that I ream every thing for a
close fit.

Have a Happy New Year.

Dave Greaton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Wampach" <rwampach@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 10:09 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Wing Install

Don't forget the lift struts also get 5/8" bolts for a SR-3500.
Drill and final ream them to size when setting the 1* Dihedral on the
wings,
use a digital level if you have one down to 1-tenth degree.
A snug fit would be best for all 3 points if you have the equipment, be
as
precise as you can.

Dick Wampach SR-108 N331RW

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Jeff
Micheal
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:26 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Wing Install


Dave,

There's a STEEL bushing that goes in your wing main spar. Bolts used
to
secure front attach point is AN10 for Moose, AN8 for Super Rebel.

Cheers,
Jeff


On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 4:12 PM, David R. Greaton
<dgreaton@maine.rr.com>wrote:


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[David A. Ricker]

Jesse

Charlie tweaked my memory on this, we did exactly what he said. We made
a "guide block" from a piece of bar stock and reamed to the correct size
and then reamed the parts from there. You will no doubt notice that the
"chucking reamer" is chamfered at the lead end so it will self center on
the existing hole while you clamp it in place. Goes without saying but
make sure your drill press table is adjusted "perfectly" perpendicular
to the centerline of the chuck.

Cheers & happy New Year to all!

Dave
elite583.cjb.net


Charlie Eubanks wrote:

Hi Jesse

I understand your frustration. No doubt if you can drill/ream you parts in
your drill press that the way to go. Some times that just not possible as
you well know. One of the tools we use to build for ourselves when I was a
tool & die maker 40 + years ago was what we called a "bench block".
Basically it was a block of steel machined square and bored to accept
interchangeable hardened drill bushings with a common OD but with various ID's.
To use the "bench block" it was clamped in position with the required size
bushing to fit either a drill, reamer or tap to guide your tool
perpendicular to your work. You don't have to build a fancy heat treated
tool to guide a few holes. With your drill press; drill and/or ream the
whole size you need in a piece of scrap CRS, then clamp or hold in place and
use it to help guide your hand drill. Usually works for me.

Charlie E 802R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 12:56 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)

It has been a while since I drilled/reamed out all my wing mounting holes
on my Rebel. I sure wish I would have done all of that drilling and
reaming with the individual fittings clamped onto my drill press BEFORE
they were incorporated into the fuselage/wing/struts. I don't know how
others have fared doing these steps with a hand drill during wing install,
but most of my bolt holes ended up off axis so that the bolt shaft is not
perpendicular to the surfaces of the attach fittings. The problem is that
if I torque the nuts it will apply a large force that will want to pop off
the bolt head or shear the bolt. To remedy this I plan to spotface the
holes at some point to create a proper seat for the bolt heads and nuts.
Like I said, all this hassle could have been avoided by rounding up all
the fittings and drilling/reaming them on the drill press before building
the wings or fuselage. Then setting the dihedral angle would just be a
matter of making the struts the right length. It is nea
r impossible to drill a

long straight hole in aluminum with a hand drill. These are the things in
the manual that really piss me off: you get a whole page telling you how
to debur and rivet, which you have already been doing for 5 years, and a
critical step like this gets one sentence. I don't see any reason why you
would want to wait until the wings and fuse are done to drill out these
holes, but that seems to be the accepted way. For that matter, in
hindsight I would drill/ream ALL bolt holes that I possibly could on the
drill press and not wait until they were a permanent part of the airplane.
One trick I got from a machinist friend to enlarge holes while keeping
them as straight as possible with a hand drill is to step up with reamers,
because reamers tend to stay on the axis of the hole better than drill
bits. You need a bunch of expensive reamers though. My next plane will be
perfect.

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[Jesse Jenks]

Dave and Charlie,
I actually have a professional bushing block and a set of bushings I got on ebay, but wasn't able to adequately clamp it to the fairly small and confined wing/fuse and strut fittings during install. I did use it with success in a couple places though. Those things aren't foolproof anyway; it's real easy for a drilbit to catch and tweak the whole block unless you have some serious clamping pressure. I just think it would be much better to plan ahead and do all the precision hole making on the press. Easily enough done if you have the idea ahead of time. I would have done them all out to final bolt size from the start. I don't see the need to drill anything in place during wing install.

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 20:11:43 -0400
From: daricker@ns.sympatico.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)

Jesse

Charlie tweaked my memory on this, we did exactly what he said. We made
a "guide block" from a piece of bar stock and reamed to the correct size
and then reamed the parts from there. You will no doubt notice that the
"chucking reamer" is chamfered at the lead end so it will self center on
the existing hole while you clamp it in place. Goes without saying but
make sure your drill press table is adjusted "perfectly" perpendicular
to the centerline of the chuck.

Cheers & happy New Year to all!

Dave
elite583.cjb.net


Charlie Eubanks wrote:

Hi Jesse

I understand your frustration. No doubt if you can drill/ream you parts in
your drill press that the way to go. Some times that just not possible as
you well know. One of the tools we use to build for ourselves when I was a
tool & die maker 40 + years ago was what we called a "bench block".
Basically it was a block of steel machined square and bored to accept
interchangeable hardened drill bushings with a common OD but with various ID's.
To use the "bench block" it was clamped in position with the required size
bushing to fit either a drill, reamer or tap to guide your tool
perpendicular to your work. You don't have to build a fancy heat treated
tool to guide a few holes. With your drill press; drill and/or ream the
whole size you need in a piece of scrap CRS, then clamp or hold in place and
use it to help guide your hand drill. Usually works for me.

Charlie E 802R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 12:56 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)

It has been a while since I drilled/reamed out all my wing mounting holes
on my Rebel. I sure wish I would have done all of that drilling and
reaming with the individual fittings clamped onto my drill press BEFORE
they were incorporated into the fuselage/wing/struts. I don't know how
others have fared doing these steps with a hand drill during wing install,
but most of my bolt holes ended up off axis so that the bolt shaft is not
perpendicular to the surfaces of the attach fittings. The problem is that
if I torque the nuts it will apply a large force that will want to pop off
the bolt head or shear the bolt. To remedy this I plan to spotface the
holes at some point to create a proper seat for the bolt heads and nuts.
Like I said, all this hassle could have been avoided by rounding up all
the fittings and drilling/reaming them on the drill press before building
the wings or fuselage. Then setting the dihedral angle would just be a
matter of making the struts the right length. It is nea
r impossible to drill a

long straight hole in aluminum with a hand drill. These are the things in
the manual that really piss me off: you get a whole page telling you how
to debur and rivet, which you have already been doing for 5 years, and a
critical step like this gets one sentence. I don't see any reason why you
would want to wait until the wings and fuse are done to drill out these
holes, but that seems to be the accepted way. For that matter, in
hindsight I would drill/ream ALL bolt holes that I possibly could on the
drill press and not wait until they were a permanent part of the airplane.
One trick I got from a machinist friend to enlarge holes while keeping
them as straight as possible with a hand drill is to step up with reamers,
because reamers tend to stay on the axis of the hole better than drill
bits. You need a bunch of expensive reamers though. My next plane will be
perfect.

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[Darryl Conway]

I'm just curious and will maybe learn something here.....

If there is no need to drill anything in place during wing install, how do you so precisely place and install the (final sized) wing attach points on the fuselage (without holding up a completed wing assembly to the fuselage)?

Thanks,
Darryl




________________________________
From: Jesse Jenks <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: Builders list <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Fri, January 1, 2010 11:06:50 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)


Dave and Charlie,
I actually have a professional bushing block and a set of bushings I got on ebay, but wasn't able to adequately clamp it to the fairly small and confined wing/fuse and strut fittings during install. I did use it with success in a couple places though. Those things aren't foolproof anyway; it's real easy for a drilbit to catch and tweak the whole block unless you have some serious clamping pressure. I just think it would be much better to plan ahead and do all the precision hole making on the press. Easily enough done if you have the idea ahead of time. I would have done them all out to final bolt size from the start. I don't see the need to drill anything in place during wing install.

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 20:11:43 -0400
From: daricker@ns.sympatico.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)

Jesse

Charlie tweaked my memory on this, we did exactly what he said. We made
a "guide block" from a piece of bar stock and reamed to the correct size
and then reamed the parts from there. You will no doubt notice that the
"chucking reamer" is chamfered at the lead end so it will self center on
the existing hole while you clamp it in place. Goes without saying but
make sure your drill press table is adjusted "perfectly" perpendicular
to the centerline of the chuck.

Cheers & happy New Year to all!

Dave
elite583.cjb.net


Charlie Eubanks wrote:

Hi Jesse

I understand your frustration. No doubt if you can drill/ream you parts in
your drill press that the way to go. Some times that just not possible as
you well know. One of the tools we use to build for ourselves when I was a
tool & die maker 40 + years ago was what we called a "bench block".
Basically it was a block of steel machined square and bored to accept
interchangeable hardened drill bushings with a common OD but with various ID's.
To use the "bench block" it was clamped in position with the required size
bushing to fit either a drill, reamer or tap to guide your tool
perpendicular to your work. You don't have to build a fancy heat treated
tool to guide a few holes. With your drill press; drill and/or ream the
whole size you need in a piece of scrap CRS, then clamp or hold in place and
use it to help guide your hand drill. Usually works for me.

Charlie E 802R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 12:56 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)

It has been a while since I drilled/reamed out all my wing mounting holes
on my Rebel. I sure wish I would have done all of that drilling and
reaming with the individual fittings clamped onto my drill press BEFORE
they were incorporated into the fuselage/wing/struts. I don't know how
others have fared doing these steps with a hand drill during wing install,
but most of my bolt holes ended up off axis so that the bolt shaft is not
perpendicular to the surfaces of the attach fittings. The problem is that
if I torque the nuts it will apply a large force that will want to pop off
the bolt head or shear the bolt. To remedy this I plan to spotface the
holes at some point to create a proper seat for the bolt heads and nuts.
Like I said, all this hassle could have been avoided by rounding up all
the fittings and drilling/reaming them on the drill press before building
the wings or fuselage. Then setting the dihedral angle would just be a
matter of making the struts the right length. It is nea
r impossible to drill a

long straight hole in aluminum with a hand drill. These are the things in
the manual that really piss me off: you get a whole page telling you how
to debur and rivet, which you have already been doing for 5 years, and a
critical step like this gets one sentence. I don't see any reason why you
would want to wait until the wings and fuse are done to drill out these
holes, but that seems to be the accepted way. For that matter, in
hindsight I would drill/ream ALL bolt holes that I possibly could on the
drill press and not wait until they were a permanent part of the airplane.
One trick I got from a machinist friend to enlarge holes while keeping
them as straight as possible with a hand drill is to step up with reamers,
because reamers tend to stay on the axis of the hole better than drill
bits. You need a bunch of expensive reamers though. My next plane will be
perfect.

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[Jesse Jenks]

If I had it to do over I would have them drilled and reamed for 3/8 bolts and use said bolts to guarantee alignment of the fittings during construction of the fuselage. In the case of the lower attach points on the fuse, bolt the strut fitting between them. Same deal with the struts; start with the fittings bolted in place on the wings and fuse and build the struts around them. The aft fuse/wing attach fitting would be bolted to the wing and left free floating on the fuselage side while you set wing incidence (clamp it between the bulkheads) which is what I ended up doing anyway. Much better than trying to file a hole in one direction or another to adjust incidence.

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 20:53:39 -0800
From: kyhelo@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com

I'm just curious and will maybe learn something here.....

If there is no need to drill anything in place during wing install, how do you so precisely place and install the (final sized) wing attach points on the fuselage (without holding up a completed wing assembly to the fuselage)?

Thanks,
Darryl




________________________________
From: Jesse Jenks <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: Builders list <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Fri, January 1, 2010 11:06:50 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)


Dave and Charlie,
I actually have a professional bushing block and a set of bushings I got on ebay, but wasn't able to adequately clamp it to the fairly small and confined wing/fuse and strut fittings during install. I did use it with success in a couple places though. Those things aren't foolproof anyway; it's real easy for a drilbit to catch and tweak the whole block unless you have some serious clamping pressure. I just think it would be much better to plan ahead and do all the precision hole making on the press. Easily enough done if you have the idea ahead of time. I would have done them all out to final bolt size from the start. I don't see the need to drill anything in place during wing install.

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 20:11:43 -0400
From: daricker@ns.sympatico.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)

Jesse

Charlie tweaked my memory on this, we did exactly what he said. We made
a "guide block" from a piece of bar stock and reamed to the correct size
and then reamed the parts from there. You will no doubt notice that the
"chucking reamer" is chamfered at the lead end so it will self center on
the existing hole while you clamp it in place. Goes without saying but
make sure your drill press table is adjusted "perfectly" perpendicular
to the centerline of the chuck.

Cheers & happy New Year to all!

Dave
elite583.cjb.net


Charlie Eubanks wrote:

Hi Jesse

I understand your frustration. No doubt if you can drill/ream you parts in
your drill press that the way to go. Some times that just not possible as
you well know. One of the tools we use to build for ourselves when I was a
tool & die maker 40 + years ago was what we called a "bench block".
Basically it was a block of steel machined square and bored to accept
interchangeable hardened drill bushings with a common OD but with various ID's.
To use the "bench block" it was clamped in position with the required size
bushing to fit either a drill, reamer or tap to guide your tool
perpendicular to your work. You don't have to build a fancy heat treated
tool to guide a few holes. With your drill press; drill and/or ream the
whole size you need in a piece of scrap CRS, then clamp or hold in place and
use it to help guide your hand drill. Usually works for me.

Charlie E 802R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: "Builders list" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 12:56 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)

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[Jesse Jenks]

Ps. I would use the same method for the gear fittings as well.

From: jessejenks@hotmail.com
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 21:07:34 -0800


If I had it to do over I would have them drilled and reamed for 3/8 bolts and use said bolts to guarantee alignment of the fittings during construction of the fuselage. In the case of the lower attach points on the fuse, bolt the strut fitting between them. Same deal with the struts; start with the fittings bolted in place on the wings and fuse and build the struts around them. The aft fuse/wing attach fitting would be bolted to the wing and left free floating on the fuselage side while you set wing incidence (clamp it between the bulkheads) which is what I ended up doing anyway. Much better than trying to file a hole in one direction or another to adjust incidence.

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 20:53:39 -0800
From: kyhelo@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com

I'm just curious and will maybe learn something here.....

If there is no need to drill anything in place during wing install, how do you so precisely place and install the (final sized) wing attach points on the fuselage (without holding up a completed wing assembly to the fuselage)?

Thanks,
Darryl




________________________________
From: Jesse Jenks <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: Builders list <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Fri, January 1, 2010 11:06:50 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)


Dave and Charlie,
I actually have a professional bushing block and a set of bushings I got on ebay, but wasn't able to adequately clamp it to the fairly small and confined wing/fuse and strut fittings during install. I did use it with success in a couple places though. Those things aren't foolproof anyway; it's real easy for a drilbit to catch and tweak the whole block unless you have some serious clamping pressure. I just think it would be much better to plan ahead and do all the precision hole making on the press. Easily enough done if you have the idea ahead of time. I would have done them all out to final bolt size from the start. I don't see the need to drill anything in place during wing install.

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 20:11:43 -0400
From: daricker@ns.sympatico.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)

Jesse

Charlie tweaked my memory on this, we did exactly what he said. We made
a "guide block" from a piece of bar stock and reamed to the correct size
and then reamed the parts from there. You will no doubt notice that the
"chucking reamer" is chamfered at the lead end so it will self center on
the existing hole while you clamp it in place. Goes without saying but
make sure your drill press table is adjusted "perfectly" perpendicular
to the centerline of the chuck.

Cheers & happy New Year to all!

Dave
elite583.cjb.net


Charlie Eubanks wrote:

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[Darryl Conway]

Thanks. I understand about aligning the individual fittings with the bolts, etc. I still can't picture the final wing/fuselage assembly going together that precisely after the individual fittings are attached in their respective locations. Anyway, doesn't matter if I understand or not because, according to a friend who's building a Super Rebel from scratch, I cheated. I did the Quick Build ( a misnomer) and had no choice in a lot of the matter. I did, however, use several sizes of reamers to finish the fitting of the attach fittings in order to make it as true as possible.

Darryl




________________________________
From: Jesse Jenks <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: Builders list <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sat, January 2, 2010 12:08:53 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)


Ps. I would use the same method for the gear fittings as well.

From: jessejenks@hotmail.com
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 21:07:34 -0800


If I had it to do over I would have them drilled and reamed for 3/8 bolts and use said bolts to guarantee alignment of the fittings during construction of the fuselage. In the case of the lower attach points on the fuse, bolt the strut fitting between them. Same deal with the struts; start with the fittings bolted in place on the wings and fuse and build the struts around them. The aft fuse/wing attach fitting would be bolted to the wing and left free floating on the fuselage side while you set wing incidence (clamp it between the bulkheads) which is what I ended up doing anyway. Much better than trying to file a hole in one direction or another to adjust incidence.

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 20:53:39 -0800
From: kyhelo@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com

I'm just curious and will maybe learn something here.....

If there is no need to drill anything in place during wing install, how do you so precisely place and install the (final sized) wing attach points on the fuselage (without holding up a completed wing assembly to the fuselage)?

Thanks,
Darryl




________________________________
From: Jesse Jenks <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: Builders list <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Fri, January 1, 2010 11:06:50 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)


Dave and Charlie,
I actually have a professional bushing block and a set of bushings I got on ebay, but wasn't able to adequately clamp it to the fairly small and confined wing/fuse and strut fittings during install. I did use it with success in a couple places though. Those things aren't foolproof anyway; it's real easy for a drilbit to catch and tweak the whole block unless you have some serious clamping pressure. I just think it would be much better to plan ahead and do all the precision hole making on the press. Easily enough done if you have the idea ahead of time. I would have done them all out to final bolt size from the start. I don't see the need to drill anything in place during wing install.

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 20:11:43 -0400
From: daricker@ns.sympatico.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Wing Install (Rebel)

Jesse

Charlie tweaked my memory on this, we did exactly what he said. We made
a "guide block" from a piece of bar stock and reamed to the correct size
and then reamed the parts from there. You will no doubt notice that the
"chucking reamer" is chamfered at the lead end so it will self center on
the existing hole while you clamp it in place. Goes without saying but
make sure your drill press table is adjusted "perfectly" perpendicular
to the centerline of the chuck.

Cheers & happy New Year to all!

Dave
elite583.cjb.net


Charlie Eubanks wrote:

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[Ken]

Yes and I recommend testing the reamers and bolts on scrap first. All my
bolts required 2 to 3 thou undersize holes to avoid slop despite using
the largest diameter batch of bolts that I could find.
The one thou undersize mentioned in the archives will very likely be sloppy.
Ken

I did, however,
use several sizes of reamers to finish the fitting of the attach
fittings in order to make it as true as possible.

Darryl

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