I installed Bronze bushings in all of my hinges. In all of the fixed
surfaces hinge brackets I installed 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD bushings cut to
length from stock. In all of the moving surface hinges I installed Bronze
"HAT" bushings of the same dimensions, the flange is up against the other
bushing. I reamed out the hinges to have a tight fit. Used AN4- bolts with
castle nuts and cotter pins. I picked up 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD Bronze
bushing stock, from the local hardware store, cut them to my needed length.
If anything wears I will be able to replace bolts or bushings and it should
not effect the aluminum parts.
Dick Wampach SR-108 N331RW
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ted
Waltman
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 4:30 PMFrom the local hardware store I
picked up 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD bushing stock cut them to my needed length.
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Moose: Rudder attach idea: rod-end bearings
Posted two pictures to area "103 - S/M-Rudder" showing rod end (Heim/Aurora)
bearings used by a friend on his Harmon Rocket. Might be able to accomplish
a similar installation on the Moose/Super Rebel/Rebel rudder.
Parts can be had from Aircraft Spruce (search on "bearing" and you'll get a
whole page of options).
Also RBC Aerospace Bearings (phone: 866-722-2376) out of Washington has the
same parts, albeit less expensive, than Aircraft Spruce. Website:
http://rbcbearings.com/bbre-aerospace/index.htm
Part # is MS21151 for external thread version & part # MS21153 for internal
thread version.
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Messinger (fredm)
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 5:02 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Stabilizer/Elevator hing bushings for Moose.
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[rebel-builders] Moose: Rudder attach idea: Bronze bushings
[rebel-builders] Moose: Rudder attach idea: Bronze bushings
After about 600 hours on FOKM the hinges on the elevator got pretty
sloppy. I too used brass oil filled bushings and ran the steel bolts
thru them with lock wires. On one of the bushings, the nut inside the
elevator would not hold straight. The nut was there but the bolt/nut
would slide/tilt somewhat leading to a sloppy pivot. The solution was to
use a bushing in a bushing - the first locked the bolt/nut combo from
wobbling, the second for the first bushing(fixed) to run in. Works well.
No slop in any of it now. Be sure to squeeze oil through the pores in
the bushings and you don't have to worry about lubricating them any
more. Close one end with your finger, fill with oil, then squeeze with
another finger until it sweats oil.
Garry
Richard Wampach wrote:
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sloppy. I too used brass oil filled bushings and ran the steel bolts
thru them with lock wires. On one of the bushings, the nut inside the
elevator would not hold straight. The nut was there but the bolt/nut
would slide/tilt somewhat leading to a sloppy pivot. The solution was to
use a bushing in a bushing - the first locked the bolt/nut combo from
wobbling, the second for the first bushing(fixed) to run in. Works well.
No slop in any of it now. Be sure to squeeze oil through the pores in
the bushings and you don't have to worry about lubricating them any
more. Close one end with your finger, fill with oil, then squeeze with
another finger until it sweats oil.
Garry
Richard Wampach wrote:
I installed Bronze bushings in all of my hinges. In all of the fixed
surfaces hinge brackets I installed 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD bushings cut to
length from stock. In all of the moving surface hinges I installed Bronze
"HAT" bushings of the same dimensions, the flange is up against the other
bushing. I reamed out the hinges to have a tight fit. Used AN4- bolts with
castle nuts and cotter pins. I picked up 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD Bronze
bushing stock, from the local hardware store, cut them to my needed length.
If anything wears I will be able to replace bolts or bushings and it should
not effect the aluminum parts.
Dick Wampach SR-108 N331RW
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ted
Waltman
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 4:30 PMFrom the local hardware store I
picked up 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD bushing stock cut them to my needed length.
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Moose: Rudder attach idea: rod-end bearings
Posted two pictures to area "103 - S/M-Rudder" showing rod end (Heim/Aurora)
bearings used by a friend on his Harmon Rocket. Might be able to accomplish
a similar installation on the Moose/Super Rebel/Rebel rudder.
Parts can be had from Aircraft Spruce (search on "bearing" and you'll get a
whole page of options).
Also RBC Aerospace Bearings (phone: 866-722-2376) out of Washington has the
same parts, albeit less expensive, than Aircraft Spruce. Website:
http://rbcbearings.com/bbre-aerospace/index.htm
Part # is MS21151 for external thread version & part # MS21153 for internal
thread version.
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Messinger (fredm)
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 5:02 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Stabilizer/Elevator hing bushings for Moose.
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[rebel-builders] Moose: Rudder attach idea: Bronze bushings
Dick,
That's pretty much the approach I was thinking about, but your idea about
the hat up against the inner bushing is a good one. How did you press the
the bushings in to give them a tight fit?
Thanks,
Fred
On Sun, Nov 29, 2009 at 2:35 PM, Richard Wampach <rwampach@comcast.net>wrote:
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That's pretty much the approach I was thinking about, but your idea about
the hat up against the inner bushing is a good one. How did you press the
the bushings in to give them a tight fit?
Thanks,
Fred
On Sun, Nov 29, 2009 at 2:35 PM, Richard Wampach <rwampach@comcast.net>wrote:
I installed Bronze bushings in all of my hinges. In all of the fixed
surfaces hinge brackets I installed 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD bushings cut to
length from stock. In all of the moving surface hinges I installed Bronze
"HAT" bushings of the same dimensions, the flange is up against the other
bushing. I reamed out the hinges to have a tight fit. Used AN4- bolts with
castle nuts and cotter pins. I picked up 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD Bronze
bushing stock, from the local hardware store, cut them to my needed length.
If anything wears I will be able to replace bolts or bushings and it should
not effect the aluminum parts.
Dick Wampach SR-108 N331RW
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ted
Waltman
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 4:30 PMFrom the local hardware store I
picked up 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD bushing stock cut them to my needed
length.
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Moose: Rudder attach idea: rod-end bearings
Posted two pictures to area "103 - S/M-Rudder" showing rod end
(Heim/Aurora)
bearings used by a friend on his Harmon Rocket. Might be able to
accomplish
a similar installation on the Moose/Super Rebel/Rebel rudder.
Parts can be had from Aircraft Spruce (search on "bearing" and you'll get a
whole page of options).
Also RBC Aerospace Bearings (phone: 866-722-2376) out of Washington has the
same parts, albeit less expensive, than Aircraft Spruce. Website:
http://rbcbearings.com/bbre-aerospace/index.htm
Part # is MS21151 for external thread version & part # MS21153 for internal
thread version.
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Messinger (fredm)
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 5:02 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Stabilizer/Elevator hing bushings for Moose.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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[rebel-builders] Moose: Rudder attach idea: Bronze bushings
Hi Gary,
I *really* like the idea of oil and forget! I googled for oil filled
bushings and found several sources. Do have one you like?
Fred
On Sun, Nov 29, 2009 at 4:40 PM, Garry Wright <wright.garry30@gmail.com>wrote:
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I *really* like the idea of oil and forget! I googled for oil filled
bushings and found several sources. Do have one you like?
Fred
On Sun, Nov 29, 2009 at 4:40 PM, Garry Wright <wright.garry30@gmail.com>wrote:
After about 600 hours on FOKM the hinges on the elevator got pretty
sloppy. I too used brass oil filled bushings and ran the steel bolts
thru them with lock wires. On one of the bushings, the nut inside the
elevator would not hold straight. The nut was there but the bolt/nut
would slide/tilt somewhat leading to a sloppy pivot. The solution was to
use a bushing in a bushing - the first locked the bolt/nut combo from
wobbling, the second for the first bushing(fixed) to run in. Works well.
No slop in any of it now. Be sure to squeeze oil through the pores in
the bushings and you don't have to worry about lubricating them any
more. Close one end with your finger, fill with oil, then squeeze with
another finger until it sweats oil.
Garry
Richard Wampach wrote:toI installed Bronze bushings in all of my hinges. In all of the fixed
surfaces hinge brackets I installed 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD bushings cutBronzelength from stock. In all of the moving surface hinges I installedwith"HAT" bushings of the same dimensions, the flange is up against the other
bushing. I reamed out the hinges to have a tight fit. Used AN4- boltslength.castle nuts and cotter pins. I picked up 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD Bronze
bushing stock, from the local hardware store, cut them to my neededshouldIf anything wears I will be able to replace bolts or bushings and itTednot effect the aluminum parts.
Dick Wampach SR-108 N331RW
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Oflength.Waltman
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 4:30 PMFrom the local hardware store I
picked up 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD bushing stock cut them to my needed(Heim/Aurora)To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Moose: Rudder attach idea: rod-end bearings
Posted two pictures to area "103 - S/M-Rudder" showing rod endaccomplishbearings used by a friend on his Harmon Rocket. Might be able toaa similar installation on the Moose/Super Rebel/Rebel rudder.
Parts can be had from Aircraft Spruce (search on "bearing" and you'll getthewhole page of options).
Also RBC Aerospace Bearings (phone: 866-722-2376) out of Washington hasinternalsame parts, albeit less expensive, than Aircraft Spruce. Website:
http://rbcbearings.com/bbre-aerospace/index.htm
Part # is MS21151 for external thread version & part # MS21153 forFredthread version.
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf OfMoose.Messinger (fredm)
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 5:02 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Stabilizer/Elevator hing bushings for
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[rebel-builders] Moose: Rudder attach idea: Bronze bushings
They are commonly available at hardware stores - I think they are simply
a commodity.
Garry
Fred Messinger (fredm) wrote:
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a commodity.
Garry
Fred Messinger (fredm) wrote:
Hi Gary,
I *really* like the idea of oil and forget! I googled for oil filled
bushings and found several sources. Do have one you like?
Fred
On Sun, Nov 29, 2009 at 4:40 PM, Garry Wright <wright.garry30@gmail.com>wrote:
After about 600 hours on FOKM the hinges on the elevator got pretty
sloppy. I too used brass oil filled bushings and ran the steel bolts
thru them with lock wires. On one of the bushings, the nut inside the
elevator would not hold straight. The nut was there but the bolt/nut
would slide/tilt somewhat leading to a sloppy pivot. The solution was to
use a bushing in a bushing - the first locked the bolt/nut combo from
wobbling, the second for the first bushing(fixed) to run in. Works well.
No slop in any of it now. Be sure to squeeze oil through the pores in
the bushings and you don't have to worry about lubricating them any
more. Close one end with your finger, fill with oil, then squeeze with
another finger until it sweats oil.
Garry
Richard Wampach wrote:
toI installed Bronze bushings in all of my hinges. In all of the fixed
surfaces hinge brackets I installed 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD bushings cut
Bronzelength from stock. In all of the moving surface hinges I installed
with"HAT" bushings of the same dimensions, the flange is up against the other
bushing. I reamed out the hinges to have a tight fit. Used AN4- bolts
length.castle nuts and cotter pins. I picked up 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD Bronze
bushing stock, from the local hardware store, cut them to my needed
shouldIf anything wears I will be able to replace bolts or bushings and it
Tednot effect the aluminum parts.
Dick Wampach SR-108 N331RW
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
length.Waltman
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 4:30 PMFrom the local hardware store I
picked up 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD bushing stock cut them to my needed
(Heim/Aurora)To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Moose: Rudder attach idea: rod-end bearings
Posted two pictures to area "103 - S/M-Rudder" showing rod end
accomplishbearings used by a friend on his Harmon Rocket. Might be able to
aa similar installation on the Moose/Super Rebel/Rebel rudder.
Parts can be had from Aircraft Spruce (search on "bearing" and you'll get
thewhole page of options).
Also RBC Aerospace Bearings (phone: 866-722-2376) out of Washington has
internalsame parts, albeit less expensive, than Aircraft Spruce. Website:
http://rbcbearings.com/bbre-aerospace/index.htm
Part # is MS21151 for external thread version & part # MS21153 for
Fredthread version.
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Moose.Messinger (fredm)
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 5:02 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Stabilizer/Elevator hing bushings for
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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[rebel-builders] Moose: Rudder attach idea: Bronze bushings
Fred;
I never considered it a problem to press the hat bushings in. My clearances
between parts were about zero. As I recall I used several big flat
screwdrivers and pressed them in between the two flanges, one from each
side. Using two of them kept the bushings parallel so that they would go in
straight. Another set of hands makes this a pretty easy task. One of the
other fellows suggests oil in the bearings, I used a white grease that I
have on hand. What ever you use the lub adds to the life of the parts, too
much attracts dirt and that is abrasive and will shorten that life.
Dick Wampach SR-108 N331RW
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Messinger (fredm)
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 2:30 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Moose: Rudder attach idea: Bronze bushings
Dick,
That's pretty much the approach I was thinking about, but your idea about
the hat up against the inner bushing is a good one. How did you press the
the bushings in to give them a tight fit?
Thanks,
Fred
On Sun, Nov 29, 2009 at 2:35 PM, Richard Wampach
<rwampach@comcast.net>wrote:
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
I never considered it a problem to press the hat bushings in. My clearances
between parts were about zero. As I recall I used several big flat
screwdrivers and pressed them in between the two flanges, one from each
side. Using two of them kept the bushings parallel so that they would go in
straight. Another set of hands makes this a pretty easy task. One of the
other fellows suggests oil in the bearings, I used a white grease that I
have on hand. What ever you use the lub adds to the life of the parts, too
much attracts dirt and that is abrasive and will shorten that life.
Dick Wampach SR-108 N331RW
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Messinger (fredm)
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 2:30 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Moose: Rudder attach idea: Bronze bushings
Dick,
That's pretty much the approach I was thinking about, but your idea about
the hat up against the inner bushing is a good one. How did you press the
the bushings in to give them a tight fit?
Thanks,
Fred
On Sun, Nov 29, 2009 at 2:35 PM, Richard Wampach
<rwampach@comcast.net>wrote:
I installed Bronze bushings in all of my hinges. In all of the fixed
surfaces hinge brackets I installed 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD bushings
cut to length from stock. In all of the moving surface hinges I
installed Bronze "HAT" bushings of the same dimensions, the flange is
up against the other bushing. I reamed out the hinges to have a tight
fit. Used AN4- bolts with castle nuts and cotter pins. I picked up
1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD Bronze bushing stock, from the local hardware
store, cut them to my needed length. If anything wears I will be able
to replace bolts or bushings and it should not effect the aluminum parts.
Dick Wampach SR-108 N331RW
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Ted Waltman
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 4:30 PMFrom the local hardware store
I picked up 1/4" ID with a 3/8" OD bushing stock cut them to my needed
length.
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Moose: Rudder attach idea: rod-end bearings
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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