Has anyone done a windshield defroster for their Rebel with standard
aircraft engine cabin heat from the exhaust muffs? I'm finding here on
the wet coast in Vancouver B.C. that I get fogged up when it's cold. By
the time I am ready for take off it's clear, but it's tough taxiing
sometimes, especially into the sun. I carry a little towel, but find I
can't reach the windshield with it when I'm in my standard seat
position. With the firewall moved back 3 inches, you're quite far back,
if you have to hold full up elevator while taxiing.
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Defroster
Defroster
Hmmm, some good ideas here, thanks. Any idea where to get a cheap 2 way box from? I could
probably use the same one as I have on the front side of the firewall for my existing
cabin heat, but I believe they are over 100 bucks CDN.
Bob Patterson wrote:
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probably use the same one as I have on the front side of the firewall for my existing
cabin heat, but I believe they are over 100 bucks CDN.
Bob Patterson wrote:
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*Hi Walter !
Have seen several nice takes on defrosters. Tobey Riley did
a simple one - he just ran a channel under the back of the panel,
about 2" wide - it was a bent up U channel, of .020. He then drilled
5/16" or larger holes along about 2" in from the windshield. He
ran a scat hose from a 2-way box on the cabin heat, to the end of
the channel.
You might just try drilling the holes in the top of the
panel (plastic bug screens fill them tidily), and maybe putting a
bent deflector near the cabin heat outlet, to blow air up behind the
panel.
One desperation method might be the use of a small 12 volt
hair drier - pull lots of juice, plug in the cigarette lighter, but
might do the trick if used briefly ... (have seen these at Can. Tire)
....bobp
--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 04:01 PM 11/18/00 -0800, you wrote:---------*Has anyone done a windshield defroster for their Rebel with standard
aircraft engine cabin heat from the exhaust muffs? I'm finding here on
the wet coast in Vancouver B.C. that I get fogged up when it's cold. By
the time I am ready for take off it's clear, but it's tough taxiing
sometimes, especially into the sun. I carry a little towel, but find I
can't reach the windshield with it when I'm in my standard seat
position. With the firewall moved back 3 inches, you're quite far back,
if you have to hold full up elevator while taxiing.
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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Defroster
Again, thanks for the tips. I do have a couple of questions, though. How do you make duct
flange out of 1 " tube? I can see making a 1 " inch diameter hole in your box and
deflector plate and sticking in the tube, but how do you attach it without welding? Also
not sure just where you would locate that slider door and knob. If it is right at the
defrost box, how would you reach it from your seat position?
"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:
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flange out of 1 " tube? I can see making a 1 " inch diameter hole in your box and
deflector plate and sticking in the tube, but how do you attach it without welding? Also
not sure just where you would locate that slider door and knob. If it is right at the
defrost box, how would you reach it from your seat position?
"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*Walter and All,
In my personal Rebel all I did for a defrost source was to put a deflector
plate spaced about a 1/2" in front of the cabin heat outlet on the firewall.
It is just a flat plate with the top edge bent over so the heat comes out of
the bottom and both sides, instead of blowing straight at the passengers
knees. On the face of the deflector (directly inline with the heat outlet) I
put a 1" duct flange (simple to make from 1 " dia scraps you should have
left over from the control tube running along the door sill) that feeds a
scat hose up to a homemade defroster vent. I made the defroster "box" out of
aluminum, with a sliding 1' x 4' slider "door" and another 1" duct flange to
attach the scat hose to. It uses a chromed drawer knob to open and close it,
similar to what you would find in an older Cessna. I have NEVER had my
windshield fog up and I fly in ANY weather temps from 100 F to 40 below. I
may freeze my ass off, but I can always see where I am going!
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@home.com>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: Defroster
box from? I couldHmmm, some good ideas here, thanks. Any idea where to get a cheap 2 waymy existingprobably use the same one as I have on the front side of the firewall for*---------------------------------------------------------------------------cabin heat, but I believe they are over 100 bucks CDN.
Bob Patterson wrote:
--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------Hi Walter !
Have seen several nice takes on defrosters. Tobey Riley did
a simple one - he just ran a channel under the back of the panel,
about 2" wide - it was a bent up U channel, of .020. He then drilled
5/16" or larger holes along about 2" in from the windshield. He
ran a scat hose from a 2-way box on the cabin heat, to the end of
the channel.
You might just try drilling the holes in the top of the
panel (plastic bug screens fill them tidily), and maybe putting a
bent deflector near the cabin heat outlet, to blow air up behind the
panel.
One desperation method might be the use of a small 12 volt
hair drier - pull lots of juice, plug in the cigarette lighter, but
might do the trick if used briefly ... (have seen these at Can. Tire)
....bobp
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------At 04:01 PM 11/18/00 -0800, you wrote:*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*---------*
--------**---------------------------------------------------------------------------The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------**---------------------------------------------------------------------------The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
--------*
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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Defroster
Hi Walter !
Have seen several nice takes on defrosters. Tobey Riley did
a simple one - he just ran a channel under the back of the panel,
about 2" wide - it was a bent up U channel, of .020. He then drilled
5/16" or larger holes along about 2" in from the windshield. He
ran a scat hose from a 2-way box on the cabin heat, to the end of
the channel.
You might just try drilling the holes in the top of the
panel (plastic bug screens fill them tidily), and maybe putting a
bent deflector near the cabin heat outlet, to blow air up behind the
panel.
One desperation method might be the use of a small 12 volt
hair drier - pull lots of juice, plug in the cigarette lighter, but
might do the trick if used briefly ... (have seen these at Can. Tire)
....bobp
--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 04:01 PM 11/18/00 -0800, you wrote:
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
Have seen several nice takes on defrosters. Tobey Riley did
a simple one - he just ran a channel under the back of the panel,
about 2" wide - it was a bent up U channel, of .020. He then drilled
5/16" or larger holes along about 2" in from the windshield. He
ran a scat hose from a 2-way box on the cabin heat, to the end of
the channel.
You might just try drilling the holes in the top of the
panel (plastic bug screens fill them tidily), and maybe putting a
bent deflector near the cabin heat outlet, to blow air up behind the
panel.
One desperation method might be the use of a small 12 volt
hair drier - pull lots of juice, plug in the cigarette lighter, but
might do the trick if used briefly ... (have seen these at Can. Tire)
....bobp
--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 04:01 PM 11/18/00 -0800, you wrote:
---------*Has anyone done a windshield defroster for their Rebel with standard
aircraft engine cabin heat from the exhaust muffs? I'm finding here on
the wet coast in Vancouver B.C. that I get fogged up when it's cold. By
the time I am ready for take off it's clear, but it's tough taxiing
sometimes, especially into the sun. I carry a little towel, but find I
can't reach the windshield with it when I'm in my standard seat
position. With the firewall moved back 3 inches, you're quite far back,
if you have to hold full up elevator while taxiing.
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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Defroster
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 170 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 21:05:40 on 18 Nov 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Walter and All,
In my personal Rebel all I did for a defrost source was to put a deflector
plate spaced about a 1/2" in front of the cabin heat outlet on the firewall.
It is just a flat plate with the top edge bent over so the heat comes out of
the bottom and both sides, instead of blowing straight at the passengers
knees. On the face of the deflector (directly inline with the heat outlet) I
put a 1" duct flange (simple to make from 1 " dia scraps you should have
left over from the control tube running along the door sill) that feeds a
scat hose up to a homemade defroster vent. I made the defroster "box" out of
aluminum, with a sliding 1' x 4' slider "door" and another 1" duct flange to
attach the scat hose to. It uses a chromed drawer knob to open and close it,
similar to what you would find in an older Cessna. I have NEVER had my
windshield fog up and I fly in ANY weather temps from 100 F to 40 below. I
may freeze my ass off, but I can always see where I am going!
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@home.com>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: Defroster
--------*
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
--------*
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 170 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 21:05:40 on 18 Nov 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Walter and All,
In my personal Rebel all I did for a defrost source was to put a deflector
plate spaced about a 1/2" in front of the cabin heat outlet on the firewall.
It is just a flat plate with the top edge bent over so the heat comes out of
the bottom and both sides, instead of blowing straight at the passengers
knees. On the face of the deflector (directly inline with the heat outlet) I
put a 1" duct flange (simple to make from 1 " dia scraps you should have
left over from the control tube running along the door sill) that feeds a
scat hose up to a homemade defroster vent. I made the defroster "box" out of
aluminum, with a sliding 1' x 4' slider "door" and another 1" duct flange to
attach the scat hose to. It uses a chromed drawer knob to open and close it,
similar to what you would find in an older Cessna. I have NEVER had my
windshield fog up and I fly in ANY weather temps from 100 F to 40 below. I
may freeze my ass off, but I can always see where I am going!
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@home.com>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: Defroster
box from? I couldHmmm, some good ideas here, thanks. Any idea where to get a cheap 2 way
my existingprobably use the same one as I have on the front side of the firewall for
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------cabin heat, but I believe they are over 100 bucks CDN.
Bob Patterson wrote:
--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------Hi Walter !
Have seen several nice takes on defrosters. Tobey Riley did
a simple one - he just ran a channel under the back of the panel,
about 2" wide - it was a bent up U channel, of .020. He then drilled
5/16" or larger holes along about 2" in from the windshield. He
ran a scat hose from a 2-way box on the cabin heat, to the end of
the channel.
You might just try drilling the holes in the top of the
panel (plastic bug screens fill them tidily), and maybe putting a
bent deflector near the cabin heat outlet, to blow air up behind the
panel.
One desperation method might be the use of a small 12 volt
hair drier - pull lots of juice, plug in the cigarette lighter, but
might do the trick if used briefly ... (have seen these at Can. Tire)
....bobp
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------At 04:01 PM 11/18/00 -0800, you wrote:Has anyone done a windshield defroster for their Rebel with standard
aircraft engine cabin heat from the exhaust muffs? I'm finding here on
the wet coast in Vancouver B.C. that I get fogged up when it's cold. By
the time I am ready for take off it's clear, but it's tough taxiing
sometimes, especially into the sun. I carry a little towel, but find I
can't reach the windshield with it when I'm in my standard seat
position. With the firewall moved back 3 inches, you're quite far back,
if you have to hold full up elevator while taxiing.
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm---------*
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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--------*
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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Defroster
OK, I think I get it. I assume the flange on the tube must be enough (1/2 inch?) so you
can then rivet it to the box. This is similar to what I did at the back of my engine
baffles to cool my mags. I took a piece of fuel line (3/8 I think) and first flared it,
then peened it to get about a 1/4 " flat flange. I drilled the hole in the baffles and
used JB Weld to attach the tube to the baffles. I wasn't sure if this was going to work
with all the heat and vibration at that point, but so far, both tubes are still in place
and it seems to have worked.
"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:
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Archives located at:
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can then rivet it to the box. This is similar to what I did at the back of my engine
baffles to cool my mags. I took a piece of fuel line (3/8 I think) and first flared it,
then peened it to get about a 1/4 " flat flange. I drilled the hole in the baffles and
used JB Weld to attach the tube to the baffles. I wasn't sure if this was going to work
with all the heat and vibration at that point, but so far, both tubes are still in place
and it seems to have worked.
"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*Walter, the same way you can make any size! Use a hole saw and make a __
diameter hole (to match the tube size) in a board about an 1" to and 1 1/2"
in thickness. Cut off a piece of tube about 5/8" to 3/4" longer than the
board thickness and stick it in the hole. Place on a hard surface (cement
floor) and carefully peen the tube over and down onto the boards face. Helps
if you have something round to get it started (like a trailer hitch ball
when doing 2 " flanges) and works best with 5052 tube that you <don't> have
from the kit. Also works well with stainless tube. In either case the tube
always deforms and squashes a little, but once the scat hose is over top of
it no one will know (but you). If you can't get it to work with the 6061 you
can also make a flange by drilling holes around the perimeter of the tube
and snipping tabs to bend down as flanges. Drill and rivet it over the
outlet hole and use a little RTV to seal the perimeter so it doesn't leak
around the drill holes, etc. You can also make from flat sheet, by cutting
the flange tabs and rolling and riveting the overlap at the size required!
As for placement, I put the defroster "box" (and yes it is one piece with
slider door etc) on the pilots side about an 1 1/2" to 2" back from the
windshield (far enough forward, so it clears my gyros etc)
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@home.com>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2000 12:13 AM
Subject: Re: Defroster
do you make ductAgain, thanks for the tips. I do have a couple of questions, though. Howbox andflange out of 1 " tube? I can see making a 1 " inch diameter hole in yourwelding? Alsodeflector plate and sticking in the tube, but how do you attach it withoutright at thenot sure just where you would locate that slider door and knob. If it isdeflectordefrost box, how would you reach it from your seat position?
"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:
Walter and All,
In my personal Rebel all I did for a defrost source was to put afirewall.plate spaced about a 1/2" in front of the cabin heat outlet on theout ofIt is just a flat plate with the top edge bent over so the heat comesoutlet) Ithe bottom and both sides, instead of blowing straight at the passengers
knees. On the face of the deflector (directly inline with the heataput a 1" duct flange (simple to make from 1 " dia scraps you should have
left over from the control tube running along the door sill) that feedsout ofscat hose up to a homemade defroster vent. I made the defroster "box"flange toaluminum, with a sliding 1' x 4' slider "door" and another 1" ductit,attach the scat hose to. It uses a chromed drawer knob to open and closeIsimilar to what you would find in an older Cessna. I have NEVER had my
windshield fog up and I fly in ANY weather temps from 100 F to 40 below.waymay freeze my ass off, but I can always see where I am going!
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@home.com>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: Defroster
forbox from? I couldTire)my existingstandard--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------oncold. Byfind Iback,*---------------------------------------------------------------------------*--------------------------------------------------------------------------*--------------------------------------------------------------------------*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------**-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------**-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
--------**---------------------------------------------------------------------------The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------**---------------------------------------------------------------------------The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
--------*
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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Archives located at:
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Defroster
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 168 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 09:08:44 on 19 Nov 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Walter, the same way you can make any size! Use a hole saw and make a __
diameter hole (to match the tube size) in a board about an 1" to and 1 1/2"
in thickness. Cut off a piece of tube about 5/8" to 3/4" longer than the
board thickness and stick it in the hole. Place on a hard surface (cement
floor) and carefully peen the tube over and down onto the boards face. Helps
if you have something round to get it started (like a trailer hitch ball
when doing 2 " flanges) and works best with 5052 tube that you <don't> have
from the kit. Also works well with stainless tube. In either case the tube
always deforms and squashes a little, but once the scat hose is over top of
it no one will know (but you). If you can't get it to work with the 6061 you
can also make a flange by drilling holes around the perimeter of the tube
and snipping tabs to bend down as flanges. Drill and rivet it over the
outlet hole and use a little RTV to seal the perimeter so it doesn't leak
around the drill holes, etc. You can also make from flat sheet, by cutting
the flange tabs and rolling and riveting the overlap at the size required!
As for placement, I put the defroster "box" (and yes it is one piece with
slider door etc) on the pilots side about an 1 1/2" to 2" back from the
windshield (far enough forward, so it clears my gyros etc)
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@home.com>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2000 12:13 AM
Subject: Re: Defroster
--------*
--------*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
--------*
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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 168 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 09:08:44 on 19 Nov 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Walter, the same way you can make any size! Use a hole saw and make a __
diameter hole (to match the tube size) in a board about an 1" to and 1 1/2"
in thickness. Cut off a piece of tube about 5/8" to 3/4" longer than the
board thickness and stick it in the hole. Place on a hard surface (cement
floor) and carefully peen the tube over and down onto the boards face. Helps
if you have something round to get it started (like a trailer hitch ball
when doing 2 " flanges) and works best with 5052 tube that you <don't> have
from the kit. Also works well with stainless tube. In either case the tube
always deforms and squashes a little, but once the scat hose is over top of
it no one will know (but you). If you can't get it to work with the 6061 you
can also make a flange by drilling holes around the perimeter of the tube
and snipping tabs to bend down as flanges. Drill and rivet it over the
outlet hole and use a little RTV to seal the perimeter so it doesn't leak
around the drill holes, etc. You can also make from flat sheet, by cutting
the flange tabs and rolling and riveting the overlap at the size required!
As for placement, I put the defroster "box" (and yes it is one piece with
slider door etc) on the pilots side about an 1 1/2" to 2" back from the
windshield (far enough forward, so it clears my gyros etc)
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@home.com>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2000 12:13 AM
Subject: Re: Defroster
do you make ductAgain, thanks for the tips. I do have a couple of questions, though. How
box andflange out of 1 " tube? I can see making a 1 " inch diameter hole in your
welding? Alsodeflector plate and sticking in the tube, but how do you attach it without
right at thenot sure just where you would locate that slider door and knob. If it is
deflectordefrost box, how would you reach it from your seat position?
"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:
Walter and All,
In my personal Rebel all I did for a defrost source was to put a
firewall.plate spaced about a 1/2" in front of the cabin heat outlet on the
out ofIt is just a flat plate with the top edge bent over so the heat comes
outlet) Ithe bottom and both sides, instead of blowing straight at the passengers
knees. On the face of the deflector (directly inline with the heat
aput a 1" duct flange (simple to make from 1 " dia scraps you should have
left over from the control tube running along the door sill) that feeds
out ofscat hose up to a homemade defroster vent. I made the defroster "box"
flange toaluminum, with a sliding 1' x 4' slider "door" and another 1" duct
it,attach the scat hose to. It uses a chromed drawer knob to open and close
Isimilar to what you would find in an older Cessna. I have NEVER had my
windshield fog up and I fly in ANY weather temps from 100 F to 40 below.
waymay freeze my ass off, but I can always see where I am going!
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@home.com>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: Defroster
Hmmm, some good ideas here, thanks. Any idea where to get a cheap 2
forbox from? I couldprobably use the same one as I have on the front side of the firewall
Tire)my existingcabin heat, but I believe they are over 100 bucks CDN.
Bob Patterson wrote:
standard--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
on
cold. By
find I
back,
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