While there's a string running on this topic, I'm about to finalise my Elite
setup and would appreciate comments to overcome some discrepancies in the
manual.
Firstly, the flap handle assembly has 5 position grooves in it. I assume the
most forward one is 5 degree reflex and the 2nd is 0 which I would call
neutral.
The Control surface deflection guide page from Murphy calls for ailerons 4"
up and 3 1/4" down.
But..... Ch8 Elite Wing calls for 20 degrees up and 40 degrees down !!!
(8.27.4)
I would expect more up than down so is Ch 8 wrong ?
Next question then is do you rig the ailerons for this travel from in line
with flap reflex (-5) or line the ailerons up with the flaps in 0 degree and
go from there ?
Finally, there is reference to aileron differential, is this achieved by the
mixer horn CC-48-2 as I can't get my head round how this is done ?? (the
mixer horn geometry being that the forward push pull tube is slightly
further from the bell crank bearing MI-25 than the rear push pull tube -
this based on measuring the diagram in the manual as there is no mention in
the text as to what the correct way should be, only a statement in the
diagram saying it is not symmetrical !!)
Many thanks to you all as always
Nig
745E
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: 20 October 2009 13:15
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Adjusting Aileron/Flaps
The bulletin with control movement specs says 15 degrees max flaperon
and I get 15 to 18 in flight as long as I slow to about 65 knots or
less. In the zero flap position they hang down at least an inch on the
ground. I have to select reflex to get them to fare with the wing in
order to install control locks on the ground. Mostly just a matter of
installing the cable tight enough so you have the room to adjust things.
The mixer lever arm has to be tight enough in the slot that it doesn't
twist too much. If you notice the outer teleflex moving sideways it
doesn't hurt to tie wrap it to the airframe ceiling where possible but
that is very minor. With my slow cruising speed I very rarely use reflex
but they do still reflex almost an inch at the trailing edge.
There is another thing going on on my aircraft. Perhaps my 3 blade Warp
prop in inefficient or something but the more power I have on, the more
the flaperons want to deflect with the spiraling prop wash and roll the
aircraft to the left. That and P factor, and a bit of engine torque,
sometimes surprises other pilots during takeoff. It also means that I
need right aileron trim in cruise to keep the flaperon deflection
neutral. This is heresy here but I think I'd like separate flaps as long
as I could still drop the ailerons like Steve Sloan does. That would
also reduce the required stick force to get full aileron deflection and
harmonize the controls better during crosswind ops IMO.
Ken
Garry Wright wrote:
toKen,
Can you elaborate a bit on the last paragraph on being sure the teleflex
cable is tensioned. I don't get full extension in flight and it is a
common complaint of rebel drivers - not that affects its flight that
much. I get full extension until the flaperons are wind loaded then
probably less than half.
Garry
Ken wrote:Charlie
The archives has info on the mixer but sounds like Jeff has answered
that. I would not have remembered which way it goes but I do remember
working out the geometry at the time.
My curiosity about modifying the forward bellcrank would only apply if
the bellcrank was not centered on the control tube. It would be offset a
bit if I just drill a new hole and don't move the bellcrank. My
elevators are very light to move and fairly sensitive but it takes firm
side pressure to get full aileron in flight when the flaperons are down.
So just drilling the new hole might produce a tendency to move the
control stick forward or aft a bit when I apply aileron. That's my
excuse for not doing it yet anyway ;)
I would not be too concerned about perfection here. A half inch is not
very significant. I should take my own advice eh? Might be annoying when
you extend the flaps if the stick moves sideways but you probably
wouldn't notice after awhile. It is important to make sure the teleflex
cable is tensioned when you rig them though. ie don't rig them with the
teleflex holding the flaperons up or you will not get anywhere near full
extension in flight.
Ken
Charlie Eubanks wrote:
Hi Ken
You are right in that there are a number of things that could contribute
Ithe unevenness and difficultly in getting the controls properly rigged.
arefollowed all the steps in the manual I thought but it still a head
scratchier. My smaller push rods and the 2" torque tubes in the fuselage
tojust clecoed so I can still do some adjusting, if I can figure out what
surprisedo next.
The other item in your message about the mixer bell crank was a BIG
crankto me. I can find nowhere in my manual any mention of the mixer bell
arehaving a uneven hole pattern or that it could be installed backwards. I
assumed it to be symmetrical. I just checked the hole pattern and you
correct. The holes for the two smaller push rods are a 1/8" different in
thedistance from the hole for the 1" push rod. If this info is a factor in
itsuccessful rigging of the controls, on which side does it go? Was there
somewhere in the Rebel files an alert posted I may have missed? I guess
achesstill not to late but this info may have saved a lot of time and head
onhad I have known.
Sorry I can't answer your question about the modified bell cranks effect
wouldthe elevator. I have yet to install the elevator or rudder cables. I
tobe interested in your concern however.
Thanks for the heads up on the mixer bell crank.
Charlie E. 802R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Adjusting Aileron/Flaps