It will get a lot better with a bit of use. There should be about 1/4"
to 1/2" of sag in the chains with the compression springs. Standard
procedure is to accelerate a bit, push in rudder, get it swinging, then
use a touch of brake to kick it out at the end of travel....
Perhaps the spring is pushing the pin in a bit too much ...
Also, be sure the top main post is vertical, not leaning back or forward.
Some builders have shortened the spring an inch or so - they
varied in length from year to year ....
One builder rounded the corners of the pin - do not do this !
He had a full ground loop !! Luckily, with no damage ...
I have always used the fiberglass spring - on all 4 Rebels -
I really like the cushioning effect and the non-destructive failure
mode (delamination - after 6 years in the sun ...).
Some builders have gone to the Scott 3200 tailwheel with
heavier Rebels, like yours, to have an extra 8 lb. on the tail,
plus the cushioning of a pneumatic tailwheel ....
I have trouble getting it to kick out consistently too ...
(Do not use a Maule, or other single side arm tailwheel ...)
--
......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.ordermygift.com
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-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 17 October 2009 17:52, Gary Gustafson wrote:
I have Rebel kit #242 (an oldie) and have a problem that was discussed
prior to something happening to the Archives on the Rebel Builders site.
Much seems to have been discussed based on what is still in the archives
but I think that I remember that there was a loss of data around that
time. So I will ask the Rebel tail wheel brake away question again.
I have an original Murphy Rebel fiberglass tail wheel spring and full
swivel tail wheel dating back to 1995 or 6. (Yes, it took a long time to
get this puppy built) My question is that while taxing my tail wheel just
barely brakes away for a left hand turn, but does not brake away at all
for a right hand turn. The mechanism was recently cleaned, all surfaces
made smooth, and greased. When attempting a right hand turn the fiberglass
spring twists putting the tail wheel at an angle of 20 degrees to the
ground. For a left hand turn it only breaks away with great effort (one
out of 3 times). Something is not right.
Back in February 2001, Rick Harper wrote:
"1) It appears we HAVE the "Tailwheel Mod" ....as we have a full
swivelling tailwheel..... I assumed that there was a modification that had
to be done to the full swivelling wheel to make it work
correctly....apparently not (apart from leaving the springs loose...HOW
LOOSE ?)
Point : With the tail of the Rebel suspended in the air (so the wheel is
off the deck)....depressing the rudder pedal fully to either side DOESN'T
rotate the tailwheel anywhere near enough to make it "break free" ???
..........is this normal ?
I would have assumed that the tailwheel should break free just as the
rudder gets to it's full deflection point.....yes / no ?"
I have not found a complete answer what to do for a fiberglass tail wheel
spring and full swivel tail wheel that does not swivel. Any help out
there from someone who has the same combination?
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