Do you want this big green box to go away? Well here's how...

Click here for full update

Wildcat! photo archives restored.

Click here for full update

Donors can now disable ads.

Click here for instructions

Add yourself to the user map.

Click here for instructions

0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
Bob Patterson

0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Post by Bob Patterson » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:28 pm

Sorry - was having a bad day .... :-(

We've got lots of them up here - just fly on up to Brampton, ON
for the Rebel Builders meeting on Nov. 12th !!! ;-) :-)

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------------------
At 10:17 PM 11/3/00 EST, you wrote:
WOW Bob! Sorry I brought it up. That was quit a colorful tirade. I just
wanted to get some opinions on the subject since I've never even seen a
cowling up close and personal.

I did see Dave Bangle remove his cowl at an EAA/MAM meeting but I remember
him setting it on the ground. I gather from you, that the old cowl opens on a
piano hinge and the speed cowl must be removed and laid down like on my
Kitfox. I would much prefer hinged. Ease of maintenance is also a big plus.

I need to find some Rebels to look at, open, view, play with and compare.
Thanks for the input Bob.

Bruce G 357R

*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

rebelair

0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Post by rebelair » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:28 pm

Hi Bob

Thanks for your detailed reply. I am very sorry you had to go through all
of that. Very glad it turned out so well.

I am having second thoughts about the Warp Drive re: Jack Wiebe's story etc.
Then I go flying & occasionally hit 120 KIAS, (without a tail wind), and
think, this is pretty nice.

I am going to do some more thinking about the prop & may make a decision
over the winter.

That is great that Hope Aero Props. were so good to you. I guess the good
news for you in the whole thing is that now your metal prop is now a little
lighter with I'm sure no loss of performance.

Cheers

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson [mailto:bob.patterson@canrem.com]
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 9:25 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: RE: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling



Thanks for your concern, Brian !

Actually, Wayne did a very tidy job of installing the speed
cowl, 'by the book - and better', - it's just that the cowl really wasn't
designed for easy maintenance ! You've done a GREAT job of modifying
yours for easier access, but I guess I'm spoiled - I've had 2 Rebels
with the standard cowling ! :-)

Removing mine now is such a big job because of my paranoia
- justified by my 'brush with death' (or at least a big bill for
a new prop) !!! ;-)

Because the wires came forward, even though they were hooked
over the back lip of the cowl, when I replaced them, I drilled a
1/8" hole in the fiberglass, and pushed the end of the wire in, then
reached in behind with pliers and bent it forward over 1/2" !!
Not taking ANY chances again - it <could> have been fatal !!
I'd already put about 17 hours on the Rebel, and the wires had
not shown any sign of moving, so I felt reasonably comfortable
with the setup. (We did an oil change that day, and I guess pulling
the wires and replacing them loosened them enough - or maybe just
putting the cowl back on a bit differently than it was ... )

This, of course, means I have to do an enormous amount of
fiddling, to work the pliers in behind the cowl lip, and carefully
bend and push the wire, to get it out .... Not the best setup,
but there wasn't ANY time for niceties.

The 'incident' happened on the Thursday - and we were leaving
on the Rebel Ramble on Saturday morning !! There were 2 huge 1/4" - 1/2"
square chunks cut out of the trailing edge of the prop !!! Fortunately,
I heard the bangs and saw the shiny arc on the prop when I was on
short final for 33, and was able to shut down & roll in. If I had
been somewhere in the Rockies, or out over Lake Huron - it could
have been VERY messy !!! I'm quite sure they would have cut a
blade right off - at which point the vibration could shake the
engine right off, and the glide wouldn't be pretty, with the
CofG 'way at the back !!!!!!!

I am enormously grateful to the wonderful folks at Hope
Aero Propellers !! I took the prop down to them at 3 o'clock on
Thursday afternoon, just hoping it <might> be saved, or that they might
have a replacement ..... (it looked BAD !!!)

I called at 10 o'clock Friday morning to see if they'd been
able to X-ray it to see if there was any chance of repair - and they
told me I could "Come & get it in 1/2 hour, the paint is just drying" !!
They had filed off about 4" x 1/4" of aluminum on each blade, after
testing it for cracks, re-balanced it, and repainted the black on
the back of the blades !!!!! It was very fortunate that it was
right in at the root end ! Those guys are FANTASTIC !!!!

We put it back on the Rebel, did a test flight, finishing
just as the first Ramblers flew in !! Put the Rebel to bed, and
went down to get things ready for the kick-off BBQ .... (whew !)

If it hadn't been for Hope Aero, the Ramble would have been
delayed for several days - or <we> wouldn't have gone AT ALL !!!

I'm pretty happy with the metal prop - it IS heavier, but
I think it's smoother, and I'm getting a bit worried about Warp
Drive props these days .... not sure how they'd stand up to a
"wire attack" ! :-) Think I'll just stick with this one for
now - and try to find a way to make the cowling a LOT easier
for maintenance .....

.....bobp

------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 11:27 AM 11/3/00 -0500, you wrote:
Bob

It sounds like somebody did a substandard job of your cowl installation. I
can well understand why you are so upset. I would not be happy either.

If properly done, the cowl can be removed & replaced in under 10 minutes
revealing the entire engine. (I did not use the piano hinge technique as
you know because I thought it would lead to difficulties in removing the
cowling, and, therefore, it probably would not get done too often. The
hinge pin I'm sure would be just fine if it goes straight in and out, but
on
the speed cowling, the pin has to curve substantially at the nose, and,
that
looked like trouble). Maintainability is crucial. If you do it right with
the speed cowling, you can achieve this. Obviously, yours was not done
right.

The cowl installation does take a fair bit of work to bring it to this
point
but the results to me are well worth it. The forward/downward visibility
are the best on any aircraft I've ever flown.

Bob, are you thinking of getting rid of the speed cowling when you change
your prop out to a Warp Drive or whatever? Obviously that would be the
ideal time.

BTW, my exhaust system cost the same as Ron Barber's who has the standard
cowling. He had to buy 3 exhaust systems. I only had to buy one and it
fit
properly right off the bat. The spacer cost $190 I think but I don't know
the difference in cost from the small spinner to the 13" one used for the
speed cowling. Ron also bought 2 spinners as the first one departed the
aircraft in flight.

Bob, are you saying that the new Sensenich prop on your 0320 aircraft has a
1/4" gouge in it now? If that is true, you have great reason to be upset.
Sorry to hear that. Can this be cleaned up by a prop guy?

Anything I can do to help?

Regards

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson [mailto:bob.patterson@canrem.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 9:30 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling



You've REALLY hit a sore spot for me !! I <REALLY> don't
like the "speed cowl" (which does NOTHING for speed !) - it's a
REAL pig for maintenance, especially on floats !! Where do you
put this huge sail that will sink if you drop it ???!!!

I'm particularly burned, because the cowl wires (that were
even bent around the lip of the cowl !) came forward and chewed
great huge chunks (1/4" square !) out of my prop !!!!! The shape
of the speed cowl forces them forward if vibrated.... And that
was a brand-new $3,000 prop !!! Not to mention the mess I'd have
been in if it hadn't happened on short final !!

NEVER had a problem with the wires on any of our other 3
Rebels ! Or ANY Rebel I've ever flown with the 'standard' cowl.
Of course, this <could> be avoided <IF> I came up with a sure-fire
solid, guaranteed way to hold those wires in place that would
still let me get them out easily !

Also, you can't really do a proper preflight with the ^%$^%$%^
thing - just peer in through the oil filler flap !

In terms of cost - add about $2,000 for that sexy cowl !!
Add it up - cowl, special prop spacer, special spinner, special
exhaust .... $$$$ !!!!

If you do the 'standard' cowl, you can put the side braces
on horizontally, add piano hinges top & bottom, and .... just pull
2 pins and swing open the top & bottom of the cowling !!

If you're concerned about looks - a Rebel builder in Australia
used a Thorp T-18 nose bowl from Aircraft Spruce (about $85), and
it looked pretty sexy ....

I was SO mad at this cowling, I'd have traded ANYBODY for
2 cents !! I just wanted to put a little tape over the oil cooler
inlet to raise my temps a bit (it's getting cold here !) - Only
takes an HOUR !! Pull the pins (bending carefully), undo a bunch
of screws, lift and place SOMEWHERE .... GGGRRRRRRRRRR !!!

I'm still threatening to take a hacksaw to it, and carve
out some decent side panels, with piano hinges !! You can KEEP
'sexy' - give me MAINTAINABILITY !!!!!

Sorry for the tirade, but I'm still peeved with the thing !!

....bobp

-----------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 08:22 PM 11/2/00 EST, you wrote:
OK, old cowling verse new cowling for those of us who have still to decide
and order a cowling. Which cowling do you prefer, and why? I've heard ease
of
maintenance, and know the prop spacer and C of G for the old cowling. The
new
cowling gets marks for looks and better visibility (well, on second
thought,
looks might be a personal preference). Lets not forget cost. Is it worth
it?
Bruce G 357R
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
---------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
---------*

*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--------*

*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Wray Thompson

0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Post by Wray Thompson » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:33 pm

Go here to see them http://www.stormpages.com/3dcomposite/

Mike Davis wrote:
On this note Dave, why don't you put some pictures and information
together, and I could put a page up on the web site about them with a link
for your e-mail address.

Mike

At 11:01 PM 11/3/00 -0500, you wrote:
Hi Dave,

I've been hearing from builders about you're wing tips. Can you email me some
pictures with prices and things?

Bruce G 357R
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
--
Wray Thompson ...Rebel 306 ...home page http://webhome.idirect.com/~wrayt/ or
http://wrayt.tripod.ca/
My ICQ number is 29764664


*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Charles Skorupa

0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Post by Charles Skorupa » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:33 pm

As I recal, the RV's from Van's aircraft had the asme problem with their
piano hinged cowl. Vna's newsletter cited several instances of prop damage
form the pin migrating forward just as you describe. Their answer was to
tell builders to positively secure the end with a screw, a tab or other
means. Those who thought that the the high friction of the piano wire in
the hinge pin when they installed it would keep the pin in place were sadly
mistaken. Sound like your tab fix will do the trick


- Chuck Skorupa -

<<snip>>
Because the wires came forward, even though they were hooked
over the back lip of the cowl, when I replaced them, I drilled a
1/8" hole in the fiberglass, and pushed the end of the wire in, then
reached in behind with pliers and bent it forward over 1/2" !!
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Rebflyer

0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Post by Rebflyer » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:33 pm

Well Bob,
After your tirade, the responses, and a chance for you to cool off, Heres
my .02. I bent a piece of .032, 2in high with a 1/2 flange. Took the
shrinker/strecher and conformed it to the bottom cowl about 1 1/4 sticking up
over the top edge. Fastened it to the bottom cowl with rivets, added
nutplates to the back of the flange. The screws then pass through the top
cowl into the nutplates. I can have the whole thing off in 5 min. Back on
takes about 10 min. Part of that is lining back up the screws that have the
paint stripe going through them. (I heard that!!)
I thought about the camlocks but they are quite a bit heavier than
nutplates and screws. At least it seemed like alot at the time. Anyway, see
you Sun. Curt N97MR
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------


A G Yeoman

0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Post by A G Yeoman » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:33 pm

Settle down Bob, Why didn't you just feed the wires in from the back--- and
then actually put a retaining device on them, they dont fall out then!!

The cowl really does look Sexy! I pull it off every 10hrs or so to check
everything is OK ( which it it always is!) it is no problem, however I am
not on floats.

Cheers

Alister


----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 3:29 PM
Subject: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling

You've REALLY hit a sore spot for me !! I <REALLY> don't
like the "speed cowl" (which does NOTHING for speed !) - it's a
REAL pig for maintenance, especially on floats !! Where do you
put this huge sail that will sink if you drop it ???!!!

I'm particularly burned, because the cowl wires (that were
even bent around the lip of the cowl !) came forward and chewed
great huge chunks (1/4" square !) out of my prop !!!!! The shape
of the speed cowl forces them forward if vibrated.... And that
was a brand-new $3,000 prop !!! Not to mention the mess I'd have
been in if it hadn't happened on short final !!

NEVER had a problem with the wires on any of our other 3
Rebels ! Or ANY Rebel I've ever flown with the 'standard' cowl.
Of course, this <could> be avoided <IF> I came up with a sure-fire
solid, guaranteed way to hold those wires in place that would
still let me get them out easily !

Also, you can't really do a proper preflight with the ^%$^%$%^
thing - just peer in through the oil filler flap !

In terms of cost - add about $2,000 for that sexy cowl !!
Add it up - cowl, special prop spacer, special spinner, special
exhaust .... $$$$ !!!!

If you do the 'standard' cowl, you can put the side braces
on horizontally, add piano hinges top & bottom, and .... just pull
2 pins and swing open the top & bottom of the cowling !!

If you're concerned about looks - a Rebel builder in Australia
used a Thorp T-18 nose bowl from Aircraft Spruce (about $85), and
it looked pretty sexy ....

I was SO mad at this cowling, I'd have traded ANYBODY for
2 cents !! I just wanted to put a little tape over the oil cooler
inlet to raise my temps a bit (it's getting cold here !) - Only
takes an HOUR !! Pull the pins (bending carefully), undo a bunch
of screws, lift and place SOMEWHERE .... GGGRRRRRRRRRR !!!

I'm still threatening to take a hacksaw to it, and carve
out some decent side panels, with piano hinges !! You can KEEP
'sexy' - give me MAINTAINABILITY !!!!!

Sorry for the tirade, but I'm still peeved with the thing !!

....bobp

-----------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 08:22 PM 11/2/00 EST, you wrote:
OK, old cowling verse new cowling for those of us who have still to
decide
and order a cowling. Which cowling do you prefer, and why? I've heard
ease of
maintenance, and know the prop spacer and C of G for the old cowling. The
new
cowling gets marks for looks and better visibility (well, on second
thought,
looks might be a personal preference). Lets not forget cost. Is it worth
it?
Bruce G 357R
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Wayne G. O'Shea

0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:33 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 162 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 19:46:01 on 4 Nov 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Dave and All,

Howard wanted Camlocks on his cowling (in place of the hinge) so what I did
was install (c/s rivet and filler) a .040 x 2 inch wide strip to the bottom
half of the cowling sides (and nose area sides), leaving about 1 inch
sticking up for the overlap of the top half of the cowling. The camlock
receptacles were installed on the "exposed" portion of the strip to mate up
with the camlocks that go through the top half of the fiberglass cowling. We
bought the retainer rings for the camlocks, but found that they cannot be
used at the nose (behind the spinner), or most of the way down the sides,
because the cowling will not spread enough to let the male camlock out of
the female receptacle. I guess some of them could be installed with the
retainer rings, but Howard was to install them after painting and I don't
know what he ever did with the rings. As it is now (because not all the
camlocks are the same length or colour) we have to take them out and stick
them into a piece of styrofoam in the order they are removed so they don't
get mixed up. Styrofoam is really good for this because if you stick the
camlocks into it good and deep, they <should> still be there after you have
borrowed a boat to go get your fasteners as they are floating down the lake
after being blown off the float deck!!!!!!

P.S. If you are going to use camlocks I suggest using phillips heads. Howard
bought slotted ones for his and it never fails that the screwdriver slips at
least once putting it on or off, to add another scratch to the paint job!

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ricker" <ricker@dbis.ns.ca>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Wayne, group

All this discussion on wires & cowlings has me curious about doing it
differently as
Wayne has referred to, presumably with 1/4 turn fasteners. What are the
options and what
are the issues when using 1/4 turn fasteners (like reinforcing the cowl
for the "point
loading" of the fasteners etc).

Wayne, you mention camlocks, by the way you speak they are not the captive
sort like the
DZUS I have seen in some applications, why not? I presume the camlocks
you are speaking
of are the spring loaded 1/4 turns built into a sort of barrel.

Dave R.



Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
GEE, THANKS BRIAN! Is this beat up Wayne week or what?

Bob's P's cowling <CAN> be removed in less than 10 minutes unless he is
a
really slow screw'er. (although that <CAN> sometimes be a good thing!)
Bob's
cowling is quicker to remove than Howard's (with his requested camlocks
to
keep in order when removed on each side, instead of the piano wire) and
I
can take Howard's off (top and bottom) in less than 10 minutes. I think
maybe Bob was just having one of those "bad days" and got carried away
while
typing his "tirade"!

The speed cowling is <DEFINITELY> not as easy to do quick maintenance
checks
though, especially over the water, as no matter how you attach the cowl
there will be screws (or clips, or camlocks) to drop into the lake
(unless
as Bob says, you cut some large doors in the fiberglass cowl halves
instead,
besides the OPTIONAL oil access door I installed on his). The bottom,
firewall area, screws are the worst and the ones that are most likely to
go
"plunk" in the lake! Howard slings a tarp between the floats to work at
the
dock! Maybe that is why he didn't bother pulling his cowling to find
that
his carburetor was falling apart!!!!!! Personally, I will <NEVER, NEVER,
NEVER> install another Speed Cowling on a Rebel, unless specifically
requested by the customer, as I don't have any cheese left for any more
whine!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "rebelair" <rebelair@idirect.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 11:27 AM
Subject: RE: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling
Bob

It sounds like somebody did a substandard job of your cowl
installation.
I
can well understand why you are so upset. I would not be happy
either.
If properly done, the cowl can be removed & replaced in under 10
minutes
revealing the entire engine. (I did not use the piano hinge technique
as
you know because I thought it would lead to difficulties in removing
the
cowling, and, therefore, it probably would not get done too often.
The
hinge pin I'm sure would be just fine if it goes straight in and out,
but
on
the speed cowling, the pin has to curve substantially at the nose,
and,
that
looked like trouble). Maintainability is crucial. If you do it right
with
the speed cowling, you can achieve this. Obviously, yours was not
done
right.

The cowl installation does take a fair bit of work to bring it to this
point
but the results to me are well worth it. The forward/downward
visibility
are the best on any aircraft I've ever flown.

Bob, are you thinking of getting rid of the speed cowling when you
change
your prop out to a Warp Drive or whatever? Obviously that would be
the
ideal time.

BTW, my exhaust system cost the same as Ron Barber's who has the
standard
cowling. He had to buy 3 exhaust systems. I only had to buy one and
it
fit
properly right off the bat. The spacer cost $190 I think but I don't
know
the difference in cost from the small spinner to the 13" one used for
the
speed cowling. Ron also bought 2 spinners as the first one departed
the
aircraft in flight.

Bob, are you saying that the new Sensenich prop on your 0320 aircraft
has
a
1/4" gouge in it now? If that is true, you have great reason to be
upset.
Sorry to hear that. Can this be cleaned up by a prop guy?

Anything I can do to help?

Regards

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson [mailto:bob.patterson@canrem.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 9:30 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling



You've REALLY hit a sore spot for me !! I <REALLY> don't
like the "speed cowl" (which does NOTHING for speed !) - it's a
REAL pig for maintenance, especially on floats !! Where do you
put this huge sail that will sink if you drop it ???!!!

I'm particularly burned, because the cowl wires (that were
even bent around the lip of the cowl !) came forward and chewed
great huge chunks (1/4" square !) out of my prop !!!!! The shape
of the speed cowl forces them forward if vibrated.... And that
was a brand-new $3,000 prop !!! Not to mention the mess I'd have
been in if it hadn't happened on short final !!

NEVER had a problem with the wires on any of our other 3
Rebels ! Or ANY Rebel I've ever flown with the 'standard' cowl.
Of course, this <could> be avoided <IF> I came up with a sure-fire
solid, guaranteed way to hold those wires in place that would
still let me get them out easily !

Also, you can't really do a proper preflight with the ^%$^%$%^
thing - just peer in through the oil filler flap !

In terms of cost - add about $2,000 for that sexy cowl !!
Add it up - cowl, special prop spacer, special spinner, special
exhaust .... $$$$ !!!!

If you do the 'standard' cowl, you can put the side braces
on horizontally, add piano hinges top & bottom, and .... just pull
2 pins and swing open the top & bottom of the cowling !!

If you're concerned about looks - a Rebel builder in Australia
used a Thorp T-18 nose bowl from Aircraft Spruce (about $85), and
it looked pretty sexy ....

I was SO mad at this cowling, I'd have traded ANYBODY for
2 cents !! I just wanted to put a little tape over the oil cooler
inlet to raise my temps a bit (it's getting cold here !) - Only
takes an HOUR !! Pull the pins (bending carefully), undo a bunch
of screws, lift and place SOMEWHERE .... GGGRRRRRRRRRR !!!

I'm still threatening to take a hacksaw to it, and carve
out some decent side panels, with piano hinges !! You can KEEP
'sexy' - give me MAINTAINABILITY !!!!!

Sorry for the tirade, but I'm still peeved with the thing !!

....bobp
-----------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 08:22 PM 11/2/00 EST, you wrote:
decide
ease
of
The
new thought,
worth
it?
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
--
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
DARTEC Engineering Inc.
3 Tamarac Drive
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada, B2T 1E8
ricker@dbis.ns.ca
Ph. 902-860-0256


*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Bob Patterson

0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Post by Bob Patterson » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:33 pm

Thanks Curt !

I'm gathering solutions - and that's a good one. I'm still
looking for something REALLY quick - I open both sides of the top
cowl on Number 001 before every flight ! Even undoing screws would
take longer than I'd like - the piano hinges are great, if only
they were in the right places ! Maybe I need to fiberglas over
the present joint, and put in new ones ....... hmmmmmmm ......

.....bobp

---------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
At 03:58 PM 11/4/00 EST, you wrote:
Well Bob,
After your tirade, the responses, and a chance for you to cool off, Heres
my .02. I bent a piece of .032, 2in high with a 1/2 flange. Took the
shrinker/strecher and conformed it to the bottom cowl about 1 1/4 sticking up
over the top edge. Fastened it to the bottom cowl with rivets, added
nutplates to the back of the flange. The screws then pass through the top
cowl into the nutplates. I can have the whole thing off in 5 min. Back on
takes about 10 min. Part of that is lining back up the screws that have the
paint stripe going through them. (I heard that!!)
I thought about the camlocks but they are quite a bit heavier than
nutplates and screws. At least it seemed like alot at the time. Anyway, see
you Sun. Curt N97MR
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Wayne G. O'Shea

0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:33 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 162 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 20:46:29 on 4 Nov 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


It's all right Bob, I was just having <ANOTHER> bad day myself, trying to
get FOKM back in order!! It has been a never ending, 4 month battle so far,
of hidden factory construction surprises and part availability delays to
correct and modify them. Now 4 months since ordered and still no Chrome
plated wheel bearings from Timken for the Amphibs. Now promised for Nov.
10th. If I had them already, I could have probably shown up for the 12th's
meeting with the "NEW" C- FOKM to show off. Even if I get the bearings on
the 10th (and I'm not holding my breath) it won't leave enough time to get
the gear back together, weight and balance done and the engine break in
completed. It still needs the panel redone (but that will probably have to
wait until spring, as it's getting pretty cold in the hanger), but it is
amazing what $32,000 (so far) and 300 hours of work can do to an already
flying aircraft! I think she will be a "keeper" unless someone has
$100,000Cdn to part with!

As for XWI, maybe you could make VERY LARGE "oil" doors on both sides of the
cowling. Like from the center "spine" hump, to just above the existing hinge
line. About 6 of those Hartzell latches per side should hold a 5 square foot
door shut!

OR maybe you can drill a hole through the firewall to fed the wire from the
back! I forget where the hinge line lined up in relation to the firewall
"plates", motor mount "bath tub" fittings etc, but it may be possible OR
just another stupid notion of mine!

By they way, after a $130 strobe bulb and a $400 dollar power supply I
finally figured out why the right wing strobe light didn't work properly or
double flash. Whom ever did the wiring swapped the black and red strobe
wires inside the quick connector plugs at the wing root, therefore reversing
the polarity to the bulb. That is why the bulb was dead when we "swapped"
planes as the flash tubes will flash if reverse powered but the element is
not designed to do it for very long. Also loads down the discharge
capacitors in the power pack when trying to fire them backwards.

Maybe see you on the 12th, IF it's a flying day and IF I'm still welcome!!!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Sorry Wayne !!

I wasn't meaning that there was anything wrong with your
installation !! In fact, because you did <such> a good job of making
the sides flush by hiding the hinge completely, it looks great,
but is very hard to get the wires in from the back....
and, if you hadn't <added> that oil filler door, I would REALLY
have been unhappy with the cowling !! You did as much as possible
to make it functional - It's just that the design of these fibreglass
cowls is REALLY poor for easy maintenance.

There just HAS to be a better way !! ( Dave Fife - I think
I hear opportuntity knocking again !! ;-) ;-) )

I was pleased to see that the cowling on the Super Rebel
was designed so that the wires DO go in from the back, and can be
locked in place by wrapping them around the cowling retaining screws !

......bobp

--------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 12:35 PM 11/3/00 -0500, you wrote:
GEE, THANKS BRIAN! Is this beat up Wayne week or what?

Bob's P's cowling <CAN> be removed in less than 10 minutes unless he is a
really slow screw'er. (although that <CAN> sometimes be a good thing!)
Bob's
cowling is quicker to remove than Howard's (with his requested camlocks
to
keep in order when removed on each side, instead of the piano wire) and I
can take Howard's off (top and bottom) in less than 10 minutes. I think
maybe Bob was just having one of those "bad days" and got carried away
while
typing his "tirade"!

The speed cowling is <DEFINITELY> not as easy to do quick maintenance
checks
though, especially over the water, as no matter how you attach the cowl
there will be screws (or clips, or camlocks) to drop into the lake
(unless
as Bob says, you cut some large doors in the fiberglass cowl halves
instead,
besides the OPTIONAL oil access door I installed on his). The bottom,
firewall area, screws are the worst and the ones that are most likely to
go
"plunk" in the lake! Howard slings a tarp between the floats to work at
the
dock! Maybe that is why he didn't bother pulling his cowling to find that
his carburetor was falling apart!!!!!! Personally, I will <NEVER, NEVER,
NEVER> install another Speed Cowling on a Rebel, unless specifically
requested by the customer, as I don't have any cheese left for any more
whine!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "rebelair" <rebelair@idirect.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 11:27 AM
Subject: RE: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Bob

It sounds like somebody did a substandard job of your cowl
installation.
I
can well understand why you are so upset. I would not be happy either.

If properly done, the cowl can be removed & replaced in under 10
minutes
revealing the entire engine. (I did not use the piano hinge technique
as
you know because I thought it would lead to difficulties in removing
the
cowling, and, therefore, it probably would not get done too often. The
hinge pin I'm sure would be just fine if it goes straight in and out,
but
on
the speed cowling, the pin has to curve substantially at the nose, and,
that
looked like trouble). Maintainability is crucial. If you do it right
with
the speed cowling, you can achieve this. Obviously, yours was not done
right.

The cowl installation does take a fair bit of work to bring it to this
point
but the results to me are well worth it. The forward/downward
visibility
are the best on any aircraft I've ever flown.

Bob, are you thinking of getting rid of the speed cowling when you
change
your prop out to a Warp Drive or whatever? Obviously that would be the
ideal time.

BTW, my exhaust system cost the same as Ron Barber's who has the
standard
cowling. He had to buy 3 exhaust systems. I only had to buy one and
it
fit
properly right off the bat. The spacer cost $190 I think but I don't
know
the difference in cost from the small spinner to the 13" one used for
the
speed cowling. Ron also bought 2 spinners as the first one departed
the
aircraft in flight.

Bob, are you saying that the new Sensenich prop on your 0320 aircraft
has
a
1/4" gouge in it now? If that is true, you have great reason to be
upset.
Sorry to hear that. Can this be cleaned up by a prop guy?

Anything I can do to help?

Regards

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson [mailto:bob.patterson@canrem.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 9:30 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling



You've REALLY hit a sore spot for me !! I <REALLY> don't
like the "speed cowl" (which does NOTHING for speed !) - it's a
REAL pig for maintenance, especially on floats !! Where do you
put this huge sail that will sink if you drop it ???!!!

I'm particularly burned, because the cowl wires (that were
even bent around the lip of the cowl !) came forward and chewed
great huge chunks (1/4" square !) out of my prop !!!!! The shape
of the speed cowl forces them forward if vibrated.... And that
was a brand-new $3,000 prop !!! Not to mention the mess I'd have
been in if it hadn't happened on short final !!

NEVER had a problem with the wires on any of our other 3
Rebels ! Or ANY Rebel I've ever flown with the 'standard' cowl.
Of course, this <could> be avoided <IF> I came up with a sure-fire
solid, guaranteed way to hold those wires in place that would
still let me get them out easily !

Also, you can't really do a proper preflight with the ^%$^%$%^
thing - just peer in through the oil filler flap !

In terms of cost - add about $2,000 for that sexy cowl !!
Add it up - cowl, special prop spacer, special spinner, special
exhaust .... $$$$ !!!!

If you do the 'standard' cowl, you can put the side braces
on horizontally, add piano hinges top & bottom, and .... just pull
2 pins and swing open the top & bottom of the cowling !!

If you're concerned about looks - a Rebel builder in Australia
used a Thorp T-18 nose bowl from Aircraft Spruce (about $85), and
it looked pretty sexy ....

I was SO mad at this cowling, I'd have traded ANYBODY for
2 cents !! I just wanted to put a little tape over the oil cooler
inlet to raise my temps a bit (it's getting cold here !) - Only
takes an HOUR !! Pull the pins (bending carefully), undo a bunch
of screws, lift and place SOMEWHERE .... GGGRRRRRRRRRR !!!

I'm still threatening to take a hacksaw to it, and carve
out some decent side panels, with piano hinges !! You can KEEP
'sexy' - give me MAINTAINABILITY !!!!!

Sorry for the tirade, but I'm still peeved with the thing !!

....bobp
-----------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 08:22 PM 11/2/00 EST, you wrote:
decide
ease
of
The
new thought,
worth
it?
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
---------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
---------*

*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--------*

*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--------*
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Wayne G. O'Shea

0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:33 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 162 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 21:03:31 on 4 Nov 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


I know you weren't Brian, it was just another one of those days. Sorry for
the "mud" throw!

You are right, the speed cowlings forward/downward sweep does improve the
visibility. My old style cowling is quite close to it though, as I mounted
it down on a slant pretty close to the speed cowling, as opposed to the
straight out angle from the instrument panels "glare" deck that most of them
seem to be getting done. My prop flange starter ring "just" clears the
inside top of the nose bowl. Nobody will know that the prop is not in the
center of the supplied nose bowls round prop flange hole, once the spinner
is in place! The Rebel has great visibilty over the nose with ANY cowling on
it! Especially compared to the UTVA 66's that I land looking out the side
window, to make sure the runway edge is staying the same distance from the
aircraft to determine a good roll out! The deer that cross my runway have to
look out for themselves when I fly them though!

If you are ever going to get around to flying up here you had better do it
soon, or you will need skis if you leave it much longer!!!!!!

Best Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "rebelair" <rebelair@idirect.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 11:50 PM
Subject: RE: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Hi Wayne

I was not trying to hurl abuse your way! Bob seemed so unhappy with his
setup that I never thought for a moment that you had a hand in it. I
guess
he wrote that on a bad day as you say!

My Rebel is on wheels as you know so I have not been concerned with the
issues you pointed out. Your points are good ones. I guess the question
is
on cowlings whether or not you are on wheels or water. I would not trade
the forward visibility for of the speed cowling. Removing the cowling is
a
non issue for me, and, yes, I like the look of the airplane with this
cowl.
Again, that is the beauty of homebuilding, build it the way you like it.

Brian #328R

PS Now that I have really ticked you off, it is about time for me to buzz
your field!

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea [mailto:oifa@irishfield.on.ca]
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 12:36 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: Re: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling


GEE, THANKS BRIAN! Is this beat up Wayne week or what?

Bob's P's cowling <CAN> be removed in less than 10 minutes unless he is a
really slow screw'er. (although that <CAN> sometimes be a good thing!)
Bob's
cowling is quicker to remove than Howard's (with his requested camlocks to
keep in order when removed on each side, instead of the piano wire) and I
can take Howard's off (top and bottom) in less than 10 minutes. I think
maybe Bob was just having one of those "bad days" and got carried away
while
typing his "tirade"!

The speed cowling is <DEFINITELY> not as easy to do quick maintenance
checks
though, especially over the water, as no matter how you attach the cowl
there will be screws (or clips, or camlocks) to drop into the lake (unless
as Bob says, you cut some large doors in the fiberglass cowl halves
instead,
besides the OPTIONAL oil access door I installed on his). The bottom,
firewall area, screws are the worst and the ones that are most likely to
go
"plunk" in the lake! Howard slings a tarp between the floats to work at
the
dock! Maybe that is why he didn't bother pulling his cowling to find that
his carburetor was falling apart!!!!!! Personally, I will <NEVER, NEVER,
NEVER> install another Speed Cowling on a Rebel, unless specifically
requested by the customer, as I don't have any cheese left for any more
whine!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "rebelair" <rebelair@idirect.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 11:27 AM
Subject: RE: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Bob

It sounds like somebody did a substandard job of your cowl installation.
I
can well understand why you are so upset. I would not be happy either.

If properly done, the cowl can be removed & replaced in under 10 minutes
revealing the entire engine. (I did not use the piano hinge technique
as
you know because I thought it would lead to difficulties in removing the
cowling, and, therefore, it probably would not get done too often. The
hinge pin I'm sure would be just fine if it goes straight in and out,
but
on
the speed cowling, the pin has to curve substantially at the nose, and,
that
looked like trouble). Maintainability is crucial. If you do it right
with
the speed cowling, you can achieve this. Obviously, yours was not done
right.

The cowl installation does take a fair bit of work to bring it to this
point
but the results to me are well worth it. The forward/downward
visibility
are the best on any aircraft I've ever flown.

Bob, are you thinking of getting rid of the speed cowling when you
change
your prop out to a Warp Drive or whatever? Obviously that would be the
ideal time.

BTW, my exhaust system cost the same as Ron Barber's who has the
standard
cowling. He had to buy 3 exhaust systems. I only had to buy one and it
fit
properly right off the bat. The spacer cost $190 I think but I don't
know
the difference in cost from the small spinner to the 13" one used for
the
speed cowling. Ron also bought 2 spinners as the first one departed the
aircraft in flight.

Bob, are you saying that the new Sensenich prop on your 0320 aircraft
has
a
1/4" gouge in it now? If that is true, you have great reason to be
upset.
Sorry to hear that. Can this be cleaned up by a prop guy?

Anything I can do to help?

Regards

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson [mailto:bob.patterson@canrem.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 9:30 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling



You've REALLY hit a sore spot for me !! I <REALLY> don't
like the "speed cowl" (which does NOTHING for speed !) - it's a
REAL pig for maintenance, especially on floats !! Where do you
put this huge sail that will sink if you drop it ???!!!

I'm particularly burned, because the cowl wires (that were
even bent around the lip of the cowl !) came forward and chewed
great huge chunks (1/4" square !) out of my prop !!!!! The shape
of the speed cowl forces them forward if vibrated.... And that
was a brand-new $3,000 prop !!! Not to mention the mess I'd have
been in if it hadn't happened on short final !!

NEVER had a problem with the wires on any of our other 3
Rebels ! Or ANY Rebel I've ever flown with the 'standard' cowl.
Of course, this <could> be avoided <IF> I came up with a sure-fire
solid, guaranteed way to hold those wires in place that would
still let me get them out easily !

Also, you can't really do a proper preflight with the ^%$^%$%^
thing - just peer in through the oil filler flap !

In terms of cost - add about $2,000 for that sexy cowl !!
Add it up - cowl, special prop spacer, special spinner, special
exhaust .... $$$$ !!!!

If you do the 'standard' cowl, you can put the side braces
on horizontally, add piano hinges top & bottom, and .... just pull
2 pins and swing open the top & bottom of the cowling !!

If you're concerned about looks - a Rebel builder in Australia
used a Thorp T-18 nose bowl from Aircraft Spruce (about $85), and
it looked pretty sexy ....

I was SO mad at this cowling, I'd have traded ANYBODY for
2 cents !! I just wanted to put a little tape over the oil cooler
inlet to raise my temps a bit (it's getting cold here !) - Only
takes an HOUR !! Pull the pins (bending carefully), undo a bunch
of screws, lift and place SOMEWHERE .... GGGRRRRRRRRRR !!!

I'm still threatening to take a hacksaw to it, and carve
out some decent side panels, with piano hinges !! You can KEEP
'sexy' - give me MAINTAINABILITY !!!!!

Sorry for the tirade, but I'm still peeved with the thing !!

....bobp
-----------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 08:22 PM 11/2/00 EST, you wrote:
OK, old cowling verse new cowling for those of us who have still to
decide
and order a cowling. Which cowling do you prefer, and why? I've heard
ease
of
maintenance, and know the prop spacer and C of G for the old cowling.
The
new
cowling gets marks for looks and better visibility (well, on second
thought,
looks might be a personal preference). Lets not forget cost. Is it
worth
it?
Bruce G 357R
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Bob Patterson

0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Post by Bob Patterson » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:33 pm

Hi Wayne !
As for XWI, maybe you could make VERY LARGE "oil" doors on both sides of the
cowling. Like from the center "spine" hump, to just above the existing hinge
line. About 6 of those Hartzell latches per side should hold a 5 square foot
door shut!
That's kind of what I'm thinking about !! GOT to be a better
way !!!! It might be ugly, but it'd sure be easy to work on ....

HHMMMMmmmmmmmm - probably the same folks that took the
original owner to the cleaners for the "wood" instrument panel &
wiring ($4,000 !!) <and> the "custom GREEN interior" (another $4,000 +) !!
No wonder there was a lot of noise on the radio when the strobes
were on !! Didn't use them much, but DID have to replace the tail
strobe - original setup let it fill up with water !!

Of course you're welcome !! Would have been nice to see FOKM
all re-done !! I think AeroSpares <stock> those bearings - but
maybe not in stainless ....

Hope we'll see you on the 12th - looks like a big crowd !!

.....bobp

--------------------------orig.-----------------------------------------
At 08:13 PM 11/4/00 -0500, you wrote:
It's all right Bob, I was just having <ANOTHER> bad day myself, trying to
get FOKM back in order!! It has been a never ending, 4 month battle so far,
of hidden factory construction surprises and part availability delays to
correct and modify them. Now 4 months since ordered and still no Chrome
plated wheel bearings from Timken for the Amphibs. Now promised for Nov.
10th. If I had them already, I could have probably shown up for the 12th's
meeting with the "NEW" C- FOKM to show off. Even if I get the bearings on
the 10th (and I'm not holding my breath) it won't leave enough time to get
the gear back together, weight and balance done and the engine break in
completed. It still needs the panel redone (but that will probably have to
wait until spring, as it's getting pretty cold in the hanger), but it is
amazing what $32,000 (so far) and 300 hours of work can do to an already
flying aircraft! I think she will be a "keeper" unless someone has
$100,000Cdn to part with!

As for XWI, maybe you could make VERY LARGE "oil" doors on both sides of the
cowling. Like from the center "spine" hump, to just above the existing hinge
line. About 6 of those Hartzell latches per side should hold a 5 square foot
door shut!

OR maybe you can drill a hole through the firewall to fed the wire from the
back! I forget where the hinge line lined up in relation to the firewall
"plates", motor mount "bath tub" fittings etc, but it may be possible OR
just another stupid notion of mine!

By they way, after a $130 strobe bulb and a $400 dollar power supply I
finally figured out why the right wing strobe light didn't work properly or
double flash. Whom ever did the wiring swapped the black and red strobe
wires inside the quick connector plugs at the wing root, therefore reversing
the polarity to the bulb. That is why the bulb was dead when we "swapped"
planes as the flash tubes will flash if reverse powered but the element is
not designed to do it for very long. Also loads down the discharge
capacitors in the power pack when trying to fire them backwards.

Maybe see you on the 12th, IF it's a flying day and IF I'm still welcome!!!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Sorry Wayne !!

I wasn't meaning that there was anything wrong with your
installation !! In fact, because you did <such> a good job of making
the sides flush by hiding the hinge completely, it looks great,
but is very hard to get the wires in from the back....
and, if you hadn't <added> that oil filler door, I would REALLY
have been unhappy with the cowling !! You did as much as possible
to make it functional - It's just that the design of these fibreglass
cowls is REALLY poor for easy maintenance.

There just HAS to be a better way !! ( Dave Fife - I think
I hear opportuntity knocking again !! ;-) ;-) )

I was pleased to see that the cowling on the Super Rebel
was designed so that the wires DO go in from the back, and can be
locked in place by wrapping them around the cowling retaining screws !

......bobp

--------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 12:35 PM 11/3/00 -0500, you wrote:
GEE, THANKS BRIAN! Is this beat up Wayne week or what?

Bob's P's cowling <CAN> be removed in less than 10 minutes unless he is a
really slow screw'er. (although that <CAN> sometimes be a good thing!)
Bob's
cowling is quicker to remove than Howard's (with his requested camlocks
to
keep in order when removed on each side, instead of the piano wire) and I
can take Howard's off (top and bottom) in less than 10 minutes. I think
maybe Bob was just having one of those "bad days" and got carried away
while
typing his "tirade"!

The speed cowling is <DEFINITELY> not as easy to do quick maintenance
checks
though, especially over the water, as no matter how you attach the cowl
there will be screws (or clips, or camlocks) to drop into the lake
(unless
as Bob says, you cut some large doors in the fiberglass cowl halves
instead,
besides the OPTIONAL oil access door I installed on his). The bottom,
firewall area, screws are the worst and the ones that are most likely to
go
"plunk" in the lake! Howard slings a tarp between the floats to work at
the
dock! Maybe that is why he didn't bother pulling his cowling to find that
his carburetor was falling apart!!!!!! Personally, I will <NEVER, NEVER,
NEVER> install another Speed Cowling on a Rebel, unless specifically
requested by the customer, as I don't have any cheese left for any more
whine!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "rebelair" <rebelair@idirect.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 11:27 AM
Subject: RE: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling

installation.
I
minutes
as
the
but
on that with point
visibility
change
standard
it
fit
know
the
the
has
a
upset.
-----------------------------orig.--------------------------------------- decide ease
The
worth
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--------*
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--------*
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------


Locked