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Floats

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Wayne G. O'Shea

Floats

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:27 pm

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Ryan, don't know of any amphibs that can be built in 100 hours(don't we all
wish that was possible)Rigging the floats alone on the murphy takes about
40/50 hours(struts to mount, cross cable, lines, pump, reservoir etc.)
Floats take about the same time to build as all the airframe parts to build
a Rebel. For me this was around 450 hours and 42 to put them on the plane
ready to fly! You must remember that there are approximately 13,500 rivets
in a set of 1800 amphib floats. Each hole must be perfectly deburred so the
rivets seat flat and every rivet must be dipped in sealer prior to
installation.

As for prebuilts, I discussed this with Daryl at Oshkosh '95 and he told me
I couldn't compete with their plansto have them built offshore! Dave Walker
repeated this a the TAAS in 1998. I still haven't heard of or have I viewed
at set that were built by other than the builder(other than the Montana
Float company or myself Irish Field Aviation) I charge $19,500cdn to build a
set of 1800 amphibs(you supply the kit). This price includes all extra
parts, sealer(I don't use proseal) etc. to complete from the kit, including
optional pump out cups and hoses to make preflight a breeze.

The only commercially available amphibs would be Wipline 2100's. Theycost
approximately $35,000U.S. and weigh about 145 lbs more than murphy's 1800's.
Murphy's 1800 amphibs weigh in at 258 lbs c/w all cross cables, turnbuckles,
spreader bars, struts, etc.(doesn't include pump, selector valve, fluid
etc.) and you remove approx. 65 lbs. when you take the wheel gear off)

Hope I helped!!

Regards, Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Amendala <longpup@hotmail.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 4:23 PM
Subject: Floats

All,

I was curious about what type of amphib floats are out there. I have heard
it takes quite a while to build Murphy's floats. Is that true? I would
like to know if there are floats that can be built in less than 100 hours.
Murphy told us at Osh'99 they were working on prebuilt 1800's. Has anyone
heard about this?

Thanks

BB&R Amendala
Rebel #669
Olympia, WA

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Ryan Amendala

Floats

Post by Ryan Amendala » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:27 pm

All,

I was curious about what type of amphib floats are out there. I have heard
it takes quite a while to build Murphy's floats. Is that true? I would
like to know if there are floats that can be built in less than 100 hours.
Murphy told us at Osh'99 they were working on prebuilt 1800's. Has anyone
heard about this?

Thanks

BB&R Amendala
Rebel #669
Olympia, WA

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Shawn Malone

Floats

Post by Shawn Malone » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:27 pm

Check out Montana Float Company. They work closely with Murphy Air and have
a nice amphib design.

http//www.montanafloat.com

Shawn Malone
027SR

-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Amendala <longpup@hotmail.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 4:24 PM
Subject: Floats

All,

I was curious about what type of amphib floats are out there. I have heard
it takes quite a while to build Murphy's floats. Is that true? I would
like to know if there are floats that can be built in less than 100 hours.
Murphy told us at Osh'99 they were working on prebuilt 1800's. Has anyone
heard about this?

Thanks

BB&R Amendala
Rebel #669
Olympia, WA

______________________________________________________
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*----------------------------------------------------*
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Archives located at:
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Drew and Jan

floats

Post by Drew and Jan » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:27 pm

Is or has anyone in this group built a set of murphy amphib floats? I'm
trying to build a set now and the manual is even worse that the early rebel
manual. teck support is of little help as I don't think anyone there has
seen a set of floats being built and all they can do is read the manual to
me until we're both confused. If anyone in this group can give advice I'd
be very grateful to know about it.
Thanks Drew Dalgleish
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Drew and Jan

Floats

Post by Drew and Jan » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:27 pm

Steve it's good to hear from someone else thats building floats. Right now
I'm working on the front wheel retract assembly fl209,212 etc. I've been
trying to figure out how all these parts fit together for a week and
decided the best way is to do it exactly backwards from the manual. Did you
trim your fl209 all the way around or just notch it for the fl212's. I'm
leaning towards just notching but I'm not sure if there will be any
interference with the retract arm.

Drew

At 12:55 AM 10/28/00 EDT, you wrote:
Drew

I am building a set of 1800 amphib floats. I am currently finishing the top
deck assy.What stage are you at.

Steve Sloan 536R
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Bob Patterson

floats

Post by Bob Patterson » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:27 pm

There ARE several builders who've built floats - unfortunately,
they're not on the 'net, in this group.....

You could likely talk to some of them at the Rebel Builders
meeting on Nov. 12th ....

.....bobp

-----------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 11:52 AM 10/27/00 -0400, you wrote:
Is or has anyone in this group built a set of murphy amphib floats? I'm
trying to build a set now and the manual is even worse that the early rebel
manual. teck support is of little help as I don't think anyone there has
seen a set of floats being built and all they can do is read the manual to
me until we're both confused. If anyone in this group can give advice I'd
be very grateful to know about it.
Thanks Drew Dalgleish
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SWSLOANLK

Floats

Post by SWSLOANLK » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:27 pm

Drew

I am building a set of 1800 amphib floats. I am currently finishing the top
deck assy.What stage are you at.

Steve Sloan 536R
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Drew and Jan

Floats

Post by Drew and Jan » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:27 pm

Thanks Steve I notched the one fl209 today it was only 1/2" too long so I
should be able to work around it. I guess I should bite the bullet and read
the entire manual a couple of times to figure out how everything fits
together.
Drew

At 08:38 PM 10/28/00 EDT, you wrote:
Drew

Likewise it is good to know of another builder and it appears we are near
the
same stage of construction. The manual could use a little tune-up with some
more pictures!

I trimed the fl209 all the way around so it was flush with the FWD side of
bulkhead A-1 and the aft side of fl212. This is all secured& sealed with the
three end flanges made from ST40. (figure 3-pg 4-3) You could however notch
for the fl212 as long as fl209 does not extend past the guide slot in the
fl212 retract rail. Go to pg 7-8 &7-9 on the Bottom skin on assembly section
and 9-2 & 9-3 Front gear retract assembly section. This may clear up your
question as we have to do the installation of the fl 229 front retract arm
through the bottom skin slots which are located between bulkhead A & A-1. If
you extend the fl209 two far forward of the forward face of bulkhead A-1 it
could interfere with this installation and possibly interfere with the front
retract as it rotates back into the float.

Hope this clears up your question.

Steve Sloan
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SWSLOANLK

Floats

Post by SWSLOANLK » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:27 pm

Drew

Likewise it is good to know of another builder and it appears we are near the
same stage of construction. The manual could use a little tune-up with some
more pictures!

I trimed the fl209 all the way around so it was flush with the FWD side of
bulkhead A-1 and the aft side of fl212. This is all secured& sealed with the
three end flanges made from ST40. (figure 3-pg 4-3) You could however notch
for the fl212 as long as fl209 does not extend past the guide slot in the
fl212 retract rail. Go to pg 7-8 &7-9 on the Bottom skin on assembly section
and 9-2 & 9-3 Front gear retract assembly section. This may clear up your
question as we have to do the installation of the fl 229 front retract arm
through the bottom skin slots which are located between bulkhead A & A-1. If
you extend the fl209 two far forward of the forward face of bulkhead A-1 it
could interfere with this installation and possibly interfere with the front
retract as it rotates back into the float.

Hope this clears up your question.

Steve Sloan
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Drew and Jan

floats

Post by Drew and Jan » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:27 pm

Good to hear from you Curt. It's great to know theres others who have gone
where I hope to go. Is sika flex a 1part caulking or do you have to mix it?
I've never heard of the stuff.
Drew

At 11:50 AM 10/29/00 EST, you wrote:
Hi Drew,
I'm in the process of my second of the two floats. Yea, the manual is
tuff, but it works out. I've made a number of notes in my manual, but just
ask the questions, I'm sure that the normal bunch of "answer men" will be
able to answer your questions. Just a side note, I'm using the sika flex for
the sealant. I bought the U.S. tool pneumatic caulk gun and boy do I Love
it!
The ease in putting the right size bead of sealant down really helps in the
cleanup and the waste factor. I wish somthing like this was available when I
was constructing the wet tanks, I would have been more than willing to pay
the price of a whole bunch of cartriges to make that sealpac easier to work
with. Yes I know that you can buy sealpac in a cartrige but the waste in
doing it that way was not cost efficient. The caulk cartriges are only a few
cents each and come with nozzles so they are a little easier to dispose of.
Enough babbling. Curt N97MR
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Rebflyer

floats

Post by Rebflyer » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:27 pm

Hi Drew,
I'm in the process of my second of the two floats. Yea, the manual is
tuff, but it works out. I've made a number of notes in my manual, but just
ask the questions, I'm sure that the normal bunch of "answer men" will be
able to answer your questions. Just a side note, I'm using the sika flex for
the sealant. I bought the U.S. tool pneumatic caulk gun and boy do I Love it!
The ease in putting the right size bead of sealant down really helps in the
cleanup and the waste factor. I wish somthing like this was available when I
was constructing the wet tanks, I would have been more than willing to pay
the price of a whole bunch of cartriges to make that sealpac easier to work
with. Yes I know that you can buy sealpac in a cartrige but the waste in
doing it that way was not cost efficient. The caulk cartriges are only a few
cents each and come with nozzles so they are a little easier to dispose of.
Enough babbling. Curt N97MR
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Rebflyer

floats

Post by Rebflyer » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:27 pm

HI Drew
It's a one part that comes in a normal calk type tube . Got the name from
the guys in CANADA It's made here in MI. but I had to order it out of
Florida. I believe that the people repairing whipline floats started using it
for repairs as the work time is longer. It is marketed as a marine adhesive
sealant. You might be able to find it at a local marina. Wayne will know the
right number to order, and I will have to go look again before I say much
more. Curt N97MR
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Drew and Jan

Floats

Post by Drew and Jan » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:47 pm

Float builders is there any reason not to rivet the rear float bottoms
before I fit the front bottom skins? Also I see the nosewheel swivel bolt
is the same design as a rebel tailwheel. Has anyone had this bolt come
unscrewed or thought of some way to safety it.
Thanks Drew>
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rick greenwood

Floats

Post by rick greenwood » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:35 pm

Hello fellow builders,last year I bought 233R and am presently putting an 0-320 into it. I'm looking to put it onfloats(float attach points already installed) there seem to be more 2000 floats on the used market than 1800's.Is it possibble or adviseable to put 2000's on my rebel.

Rick Greenwood 233R




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