Congrats on catching that interference problem !
Unfortunately, it is not just your Elite, nor just THAT
ball end..... The Rebels have the same problem with
the end turning on the threads, on the ball end underneath
the pilots side stick, as well as possibly the same one you
caught, out on the left bellcrank.
The fix is, as you did, to make up a small bushing for
each side of the ball, so it can turn further without hitting
the sides/washers. The bushing can be as simple as a couple
of small washers, turned down to the same diameter as the ball,
or a short piece of thick-walled aluminum tubing. Once this
is working, you can tighten down the locking nuts on the
rod, to be sure it doesn't turn on the threads.
You are correct - this could definitely be a long-term
maintenance problem !!! Thanks for getting the word
out again - there are several newer builders who may
not have heard about this one ....
Looking forward to seeing the paint job ! :-)
--
......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
http://www.prosumers.ca/Ramble09
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
http://apatterson2.ordermygift.com
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Sunday 30 November 2008 09:17, Eric Fogelin wrote:
Good spot on the penny washer. You are correct, it is missing on this ball
end. Penny washers are in place on rod ends elsewhere on the plane.
This particular rod end should be okay without. I'm not sure if this is a
unique problem on the Elite, but this rod end has interference problems.
If installed per the manual, the rod end hits the bell crank arm and
causes rotation in the rod threads; a definite long term wear problem as
the steel rod end threads turn in the aluminum push tube end.
A bushing is needed to raise the ball slightly above the bell crank arm so
there is no interference. A penny washer might be okay on top now, so I'll
double check.
I'll work on that paint job in February.
Thanks,
Eric
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 9:25 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite Instrument Panel - Dynon
Looks good Eric ! Very tidy !!! Your Elite is now part of the web
site
slide show - look forward to featuring it again when it's painted.....
It'd be nice if those Elite drivers who complained about possible lack
of representation for Elites would send even ONE picture of THEIRS ! I
don't have any new ones ...
Looking down in the bottom left of the picture, I think I see a
possible problem -- although it might be just my eyes, or the picture....
I'm looking at that ball end on the pushrod coming out of the control
stick - it doesn't seem to have penny washers on both sides ....
It is a "Really GOOD idea"(tm) to put penny washers on each side
of ALL ball ends on pushrods - especially for ailerons & flaps ....
In a few years, if that ball wears, it might just pop out - and right
off the bolt !! That can spoil your afternoon .....
The penny washers keep the rod captive, even if the ball fails ....
Just a thought .... hope it helps avoid some trouble !
--
......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
http://www.prosumers.ca/Ramble09
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
http://apatterson2.ordermygift.com
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Sunday 30 November 2008 01:02, Eric Fogelin wrote:I posted pictures of my Elite amphib panel in the Elite Instrument Panel
section. Also shows the center console for the hydraulic selector, etc.
We have similar layouts. I went for the separate Dynon D100 and D120 as
there are 2 pilots in the household and you can switch EFIS and EMS
screens between the units. Flying pilot just switches the screens to
have full flying display in front of them.
Less expensive to go with the D180 and a bit less weight. But, the Dynon
units weigh so little, it doesn't really matter. One Dynon unit weighs
about the same or less than a turn and bank, but includes every flight
instrument imaginable.
I also have not installed a backup ASI or Altimeter and I certified my
amphib for VFR and IFR. Unlike a certified aircraft which must meet the
requirements of Part 23 (in the US), homebuilts need only comply with
91.205. It is up to the builder to decide what they feel is safe.
I plan on using mine to pop through the thin West Coast marine layers
that we have so that I can fly to/from beautiful sunny and warm lakes
inland.
Right now, I'm still in my 40 hour test phase and learning to become
friends with a glass cockpit. I've gotten mighty used to old steam
gauges and the transition to speed and altitude tapes is a bit of work.
Engine gauges with digital numbers are not intuitive like needles. The
Dynon units include needles and numbers, but I still have to think when
I look at the screens. And I'm a computer geek.
Lots of fun.
Eric
Elite Amphib 645E
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