[rebel-builders] MAM's Tailwheel Assembly.

[steve whitenect]

Just for thought, has anyone who had kept the original kit tailwheel and used it, had any experiences with the aluminum wheel yoke LG-19 wobbling or pivoting from side to side on the steel shaft TW-13?. They are held together with a small roll pin mounted longitudily. The aluminum on my yoke has shrunk where the two are pressed together and there is enough play there to be unable to maintain straight directional control. I have a new and so called improved yoke assembly enroute for $150. plus. Has anyone tried the homebuilder wheel assembly with the double forks from Aircraft Apruce? I understand Steen aero in Florida which deals with the majority of Stardusters and other bi planes were having major problems with their supplied wheel. Some of these sircraft are quite heavy using Lyc 540's etc. They have used the homebuilders double fork wheel with total success.

Steve W #637R


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[Ian Donaldson]

G'day Steve

I had nothing but trouble with the original MAM tailwheel despite proper
maintenance and upkeep. Other Rebel owners say that they never have had any
trouble with theirs, but maybe the Australian conditions are a little to
harsh for teh tailwheel.

In the finish I threw it away and replaced it with a Scott 3200 and it
completely transformed the way that my Rebel handled. That was the best
improvement that I have made to my Rebel!

regards

Ian

:
: Just for thought, has anyone who had kept the original kit tailwheel and
used it, had any experiences with the aluminum wheel yoke LG-19 wobbling or
pivoting from side to side on the steel shaft TW-13?. They are held together
with a small roll pin mounted longitudily. The aluminum on my yoke has
shrunk where the two are pressed together and there is enough play there to
be unable to maintain straight directional control. I have a new and so
called improved yoke assembly enroute for $150. plus. Has anyone tried the
homebuilder wheel assembly with the double forks from Aircraft Apruce? I
understand Steen aero in Florida which deals with the majority of
Stardusters and other bi planes were having major problems with their
supplied wheel. Some of these sircraft are quite heavy using Lyc 540's etc.
They have used the homebuilders double fork wheel with total success.
:
: Steve W #637R
:




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[Mike Kimball]

I assume the Rebel tailwheel is different than the one for the Super Rebel?
Not having any trouble with mine and the plane handles great on the ground.
The only thing I have trouble with is getting it turned around when starting
out with it completely backwards which is how my plane ends up after every
flight when I push it into it's parking spot. Maybe there's a better
technique than mashing the pedal and brake trying to get it to swing around
the right way. I usually start with a left turn out of my parking spot then
I end up with full right rudder and brake trying to get it to stop turning
left. I have to pulse the brake over and over again to get a little forward
motion to swing it around. Any tips on a better technique would be greatly
appreciated.

Mike
044SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ian
Donaldson
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 6:06 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] MAM's Tailwheel Assembly.

G'day Steve

I had nothing but trouble with the original MAM tailwheel despite proper
maintenance and upkeep. Other Rebel owners say that they never have had any
trouble with theirs, but maybe the Australian conditions are a little to
harsh for teh tailwheel.

In the finish I threw it away and replaced it with a Scott 3200 and it
completely transformed the way that my Rebel handled. That was the best
improvement that I have made to my Rebel!

regards

Ian

:
: Just for thought, has anyone who had kept the original kit tailwheel and
used it, had any experiences with the aluminum wheel yoke LG-19 wobbling or
pivoting from side to side on the steel shaft TW-13?. They are held together

with a small roll pin mounted longitudily. The aluminum on my yoke has
shrunk where the two are pressed together and there is enough play there to
be unable to maintain straight directional control. I have a new and so
called improved yoke assembly enroute for $150. plus. Has anyone tried the
homebuilder wheel assembly with the double forks from Aircraft Apruce? I
understand Steen aero in Florida which deals with the majority of
Stardusters and other bi planes were having major problems with their
supplied wheel. Some of these sircraft are quite heavy using Lyc 540's etc.
They have used the homebuilders double fork wheel with total success.
:
: Steve W #637R
:




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[Ken]

I'll check again but I've never noticed any free play there on my
tailwheel after 300+ landings and I did do an inspection last month. I
use the original assembly from 1992 with bulletin 041099RB applied where
we drilled out the vertical hole for a AN4-35 bolt and castle nut
through the assembly. The bulletin said AN4-34 but a -35 worked better
for me.

I would like a wider wheel for soft fields but I am happy with it otherwise.

Ken

steve whitenect wrote:

Just for thought, has anyone who had kept the original kit tailwheel and used it, had any experiences with the aluminum wheel yoke LG-19 wobbling or pivoting from side to side on the steel shaft TW-13?. They are held together with a small roll pin mounted longitudily. The aluminum on my yoke has shrunk where the two are pressed together and there is enough play there to be unable to maintain straight directional control. I have a new and so called improved yoke assembly enroute for $150. plus. Has anyone tried the homebuilder wheel assembly with the double forks from Aircraft Apruce? I understand Steen aero in Florida which deals with the majority of Stardusters and other bi planes were having major problems with their supplied wheel. Some of these sircraft are quite heavy using Lyc 540's etc. They have used the homebuilders double fork wheel with total success.

Steve W #637R

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[Ken]

I think most Rebel guys (especially those with the composite spring)
make sure the tailwheel is favoring going forward or at least not turned
more than 90* before start up. That wheel puts a fair bit of leverage
on the Rebel fuselage attachments otherwise as it twists around. It is
easy to turn the wheel around on a Rebel if it has a grab handle in the
fuselage.

Interesting comments on your prop as it I think I've lost prop
efficiency with my 72" Warp prop when I changed to a higher psru ratio
(2.07) and slowed it to 2000 prop rpm. Looks like I need to turn the
subaru a bit faster now for best mpg. Everybody else runs higher engine
rpm than me anyway with a subaru. I thought the regs mandated a MAP
gauge with a variable pitch prop but I guess a fuel flow gauge would
give similar information from a practical aspect.

Ken

Mike Kimball wrote:

I assume the Rebel tailwheel is different than the one for the Super Rebel?
Not having any trouble with mine and the plane handles great on the ground.
The only thing I have trouble with is getting it turned around when starting
out with it completely backwards which is how my plane ends up after every
flight when I push it into it's parking spot. Maybe there's a better
technique than mashing the pedal and brake trying to get it to swing around
the right way. I usually start with a left turn out of my parking spot then
I end up with full right rudder and brake trying to get it to stop turning
left. I have to pulse the brake over and over again to get a little forward
motion to swing it around. Any tips on a better technique would be greatly
appreciated.

Mike
044SR

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[Richard Wampach]

Hi Mike, Having dealt with flight schools a lot in the past, I
feel that ground handles in the rear fuselage are a must for tail wheel
planes. Also use a tow bar for all nose gear planes. I learned to fly
in Cessna 140 & 170's. A Butt chewing was in order for grabbing the
tail feathers of any aircraft for ground handling, as it does put
stresses on the attach points.

I have fabricated retractable ground handles for my 3500 and find them
very useful just in my shop. I am about 6 months from flying, but I
feel it already has paid off. I am starting out with the MAM original
wheel assy and the Dale Fultz tail spring stinger.

As one of the other fellows just pointed out, try to park with the tail
wheel turned to the trail position and the taxi out will be much easier.

Dick Wampach SR-108


I assume the Rebel tailwheel is different than the one for the Super
Rebel?
Not having any trouble with mine and the plane handles great on the
ground.
The only thing I have trouble with is getting it turned around when
starting
out with it completely backwards which is how my plane ends up after
every
flight when I push it into it's parking spot. Maybe there's a better
technique than mashing the pedal and brake trying to get it to swing
around
the right way. I usually start with a left turn out of my parking spot
then
I end up with full right rudder and brake trying to get it to stop
turning
left. I have to pulse the brake over and over again to get a little
forward
motion to swing it around. Any tips on a better technique would be
greatly
appreciated.

Mike
044SR


G'day Steve

I had nothing but trouble with the original MAM tailwheel despite proper

maintenance and upkeep. Other Rebel owners say that they never have had
any
trouble with theirs, but maybe the Australian conditions are a little to

harsh for teh tailwheel.

In the finish I threw it away and replaced it with a Scott 3200 and it
completely transformed the way that my Rebel handled. That was the best
improvement that I have made to my Rebel!

regards

Ian

Just for thought, has anyone who had kept the original kit tailwheel and

used it, had any experiences with the aluminum wheel yoke LG-19 wobbling
or
pivoting from side to side on the steel shaft TW-13?. They are held
together

with a small roll pin mounted longitudily. The aluminum on my yoke has
shrunk where the two are pressed together and there is enough play there
to
be unable to maintain straight directional control. I have a new and so
called improved yoke assembly enroute for $150. plus. Has anyone tried
the
homebuilder wheel assembly with the double forks from Aircraft Apruce? I

understand Steen aero in Florida which deals with the majority of
Stardusters and other bi planes were having major problems with their
supplied wheel. Some of these sircraft are quite heavy using Lyc 540's
etc.
They have used the homebuilders double fork wheel with total success.
:
: Steve W #637R





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[Jim Cole]

I agree with Richard, I didn't have the ground handling kit for last years
Ramble - but I installed it over the winter and I use it all the time to
push/pull the airplane around. The MAM design has a handle on both sides
that is spring loaded and lockable when retracted. I've found it great and
with the fiberglass tail spring - I think it is important to straighten the
tail wheel when parked.

Cheers
Jim


On 7/20/2008 11:08 AM, "Richard Wampach" <rwampach@comcast.net> wrote:

Hi Mike, Having dealt with flight schools a lot in the past, I
feel that ground handles in the rear fuselage are a must for tail wheel
planes. Also use a tow bar for all nose gear planes. I learned to fly
in Cessna 140 & 170's. A Butt chewing was in order for grabbing the
tail feathers of any aircraft for ground handling, as it does put
stresses on the attach points.

I have fabricated retractable ground handles for my 3500 and find them
very useful just in my shop. I am about 6 months from flying, but I
feel it already has paid off. I am starting out with the MAM original
wheel assy and the Dale Fultz tail spring stinger.

As one of the other fellows just pointed out, try to park with the tail
wheel turned to the trail position and the taxi out will be much easier.

Dick Wampach SR-108


I assume the Rebel tailwheel is different than the one for the Super
Rebel?
Not having any trouble with mine and the plane handles great on the
ground.
The only thing I have trouble with is getting it turned around when
starting
out with it completely backwards which is how my plane ends up after
every
flight when I push it into it's parking spot. Maybe there's a better
technique than mashing the pedal and brake trying to get it to swing
around
the right way. I usually start with a left turn out of my parking spot
then
I end up with full right rudder and brake trying to get it to stop
turning
left. I have to pulse the brake over and over again to get a little
forward
motion to swing it around. Any tips on a better technique would be
greatly
appreciated.

Mike
044SR


G'day Steve

I had nothing but trouble with the original MAM tailwheel despite proper

maintenance and upkeep. Other Rebel owners say that they never have had
any
trouble with theirs, but maybe the Australian conditions are a little to

harsh for teh tailwheel.

In the finish I threw it away and replaced it with a Scott 3200 and it
completely transformed the way that my Rebel handled. That was the best
improvement that I have made to my Rebel!

regards

Ian

Just for thought, has anyone who had kept the original kit tailwheel and

used it, had any experiences with the aluminum wheel yoke LG-19 wobbling
or
pivoting from side to side on the steel shaft TW-13?. They are held
together

with a small roll pin mounted longitudily. The aluminum on my yoke has
shrunk where the two are pressed together and there is enough play there
to
be unable to maintain straight directional control. I have a new and so
called improved yoke assembly enroute for $150. plus. Has anyone tried
the
homebuilder wheel assembly with the double forks from Aircraft Apruce? I

understand Steen aero in Florida which deals with the majority of
Stardusters and other bi planes were having major problems with their
supplied wheel. Some of these sircraft are quite heavy using Lyc 540's
etc.
They have used the homebuilders double fork wheel with total success.
:
: Steve W #637R





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[Ken]

Yes the towbar!
Forgot to mention that. I use a taildragger towbar to pull the Rebel
backwards into the hangar and the wheel stays in the correct position to
go forward. Mine is homemade and it lifts the wheel off the ground when
I pull on the handle. Some guys have a bar that goes through the axle
center which is even simpler. This gives a good view of the wingtips and
where the wheels are going compared to pushing on struts or using the
fuselage grab handle. Might need a powered unit on a Moose though as it
is a challenge to pull the Rebel back by myself on grass or when there
is snow on the ground. Several guys here have a winch to pull their
plane back into the hangar.
Ken

Richard Wampach wrote:

Hi Mike, Having dealt with flight schools a lot in the past, I
feel that ground handles in the rear fuselage are a must for tail wheel
planes. Also use a tow bar for all nose gear planes. I learned to fly
in Cessna 140 & 170's. A Butt chewing was in order for grabbing the
tail feathers of any aircraft for ground handling, as it does put
stresses on the attach points.

I have fabricated retractable ground handles for my 3500 and find them
very useful just in my shop. I am about 6 months from flying, but I
feel it already has paid off. I am starting out with the MAM original
wheel assy and the Dale Fultz tail spring stinger.

As one of the other fellows just pointed out, try to park with the tail
wheel turned to the trail position and the taxi out will be much easier.

Dick Wampach SR-108

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[Drew Dalgleish]

At 11:39 PM 7/19/2008 -0800, you wrote:

I assume the Rebel tailwheel is different than the one for the Super Rebel?
Not having any trouble with mine and the plane handles great on the ground.
The only thing I have trouble with is getting it turned around when starting
out with it completely backwards which is how my plane ends up after every
flight when I push it into it's parking spot. Maybe there's a better
technique than mashing the pedal and brake trying to get it to swing around
the right way. I usually start with a left turn out of my parking spot then
I end up with full right rudder and brake trying to get it to stop turning
left. I have to pulse the brake over and over again to get a little forward
motion to swing it around. Any tips on a better technique would be greatly
appreciated.

Mike
044SR

When you push your plane back go about 3' too far then pull it forward and
the wheel will turn around. Also this way your rudder is locked and not
blowing around.
Drew



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[Drew Dalgleish]

At 01:29 PM 7/20/2008 -0400, you wrote:

Yes the towbar!
Forgot to mention that. I use a taildragger towbar to pull the Rebel
backwards into the hangar and the wheel stays in the correct position to
go forward. Mine is homemade and it lifts the wheel off the ground when
I pull on the handle. Some guys have a bar that goes through the axle
center which is even simpler. This gives a good view of the wingtips and
where the wheels are going compared to pushing on struts or using the
fuselage grab handle. Might need a powered unit on a Moose though as it
is a challenge to pull the Rebel back by myself on grass or when there
is snow on the ground. Several guys here have a winch to pull their
plane back into the hangar.
Ken

I'm still using a 6'long rope for a tow bar. It's just as effective and a
lot easier to pack.
Drew



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[Drew Dalgleish]

At 08:11 PM 7/19/2008 +0000, you wrote:

Just for thought, has anyone who had kept the original kit tailwheel and

used it, had any experiences with the aluminum wheel yoke LG-19 wobbling or
pivoting from side to side on the steel shaft TW-13?. They are held
together with a small roll pin mounted longitudily. The aluminum on my yoke
has shrunk where the two are pressed together and there is enough play
there to be unable to maintain straight directional control. I have a new
and so called improved yoke assembly enroute for $150. plus. Has anyone
tried the homebuilder wheel assembly with the double forks from Aircraft
Apruce? I understand Steen aero in Florida which deals with the majority of
Stardusters and other bi planes were having major problems with their
supplied wheel. Some of these sircraft are quite heavy using Lyc 540's etc.
They have used the homebuilders double fork wheel with total success.

Steve W #637R

Hi steve I had my locking pin fail and the steel shaft wore the main
casting enough to cause lots of slop. The roll pin stayed tight though. For
$150 you can have my entire MAM tailwheel. I like the looks of the Matco
wheel from spruce but as far as I know nobody has tried one yet. I built my
tailwheel from plans by Bob Barrows the bearhawk designer. If you have
access to a lathe and torches it's an easy fun project.

http://bearhawkpatrol.tripod.com/bearhawk/id3.html

There's also a guy selling completed tailwheels

http://www.irondesign-airparts.com/tailwheels.htm
Drew



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[Mike Kimball]

I do have grab handles in the tail. Just being lazy when taxiing out of my
parking spot. I'll start turning the tailwheel around by hand before
starting out from now on. Thanks everyone.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Richard Wampach
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 7:09 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] MAM's Tailwheel Assembly.

Hi Mike, Having dealt with flight schools a lot in the past, I
feel that ground handles in the rear fuselage are a must for tail wheel
planes. Also use a tow bar for all nose gear planes. I learned to fly
in Cessna 140 & 170's. A Butt chewing was in order for grabbing the
tail feathers of any aircraft for ground handling, as it does put
stresses on the attach points.

I have fabricated retractable ground handles for my 3500 and find them
very useful just in my shop. I am about 6 months from flying, but I
feel it already has paid off. I am starting out with the MAM original
wheel assy and the Dale Fultz tail spring stinger.

As one of the other fellows just pointed out, try to park with the tail
wheel turned to the trail position and the taxi out will be much easier.

Dick Wampach SR-108


I assume the Rebel tailwheel is different than the one for the Super
Rebel?
Not having any trouble with mine and the plane handles great on the
ground.
The only thing I have trouble with is getting it turned around when
starting
out with it completely backwards which is how my plane ends up after
every
flight when I push it into it's parking spot. Maybe there's a better
technique than mashing the pedal and brake trying to get it to swing
around
the right way. I usually start with a left turn out of my parking spot
then
I end up with full right rudder and brake trying to get it to stop
turning
left. I have to pulse the brake over and over again to get a little
forward
motion to swing it around. Any tips on a better technique would be
greatly
appreciated.

Mike
044SR


G'day Steve

I had nothing but trouble with the original MAM tailwheel despite proper

maintenance and upkeep. Other Rebel owners say that they never have had
any
trouble with theirs, but maybe the Australian conditions are a little to

harsh for teh tailwheel.

In the finish I threw it away and replaced it with a Scott 3200 and it
completely transformed the way that my Rebel handled. That was the best
improvement that I have made to my Rebel!

regards

Ian

Just for thought, has anyone who had kept the original kit tailwheel and

used it, had any experiences with the aluminum wheel yoke LG-19 wobbling
or
pivoting from side to side on the steel shaft TW-13?. They are held
together

with a small roll pin mounted longitudily. The aluminum on my yoke has
shrunk where the two are pressed together and there is enough play there
to
be unable to maintain straight directional control. I have a new and so
called improved yoke assembly enroute for $150. plus. Has anyone tried
the
homebuilder wheel assembly with the double forks from Aircraft Apruce? I

understand Steen aero in Florida which deals with the majority of
Stardusters and other bi planes were having major problems with their
supplied wheel. Some of these sircraft are quite heavy using Lyc 540's
etc.
They have used the homebuilders double fork wheel with total success.
:
: Steve W #637R





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[steve whitenect]

Thanks Drew and other that replied
I think I will be replacing the assembly with home builder wheel from ASS. I had the Matco and literally broke the steel locking pin on my Christavia. Ken B., a buddy wore one out and replaced it with a Scott 3200. That's what I had on the Christavia when I sold it. I like the look of Bob Barrow's but don't have any access to a lathe. Looks like it has bearings top and bottom. I expect to get the up graded yoke assembly from MAM soon. Was to be on the bus last Monday.

Steve W
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[Drew Dalgleish]

At 05:40 AM 7/21/2008 +0000, you wrote:

Thanks Drew and other that replied
I think I will be replacing the assembly with home builder wheel from ASS.

I had the Matco and literally broke the steel locking pin on my Christavia.
Ken B., a buddy wore one out and replaced it with a Scott 3200. That's what
I had on the Christavia when I sold it. I like the look of Bob Barrow's but
don't have any access to a lathe. Looks like it has bearings top and
bottom. I expect to get the up graded yoke assembly from MAM soon. Was to
be on the bus last Monday.

Steve W

The Barrow's wheel has a large bearing at the bottom and an oilite bushing
at the top.
Drew



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