[rebel-builders] Pressure test fuel tanks & seal leaks

[Jean Poirier]

Hello Ted

I have done the same process but much longer. I found a little leak and
use the "shopvac" method with good result.

Jean
Rebel 747R

Jean Poirier
Pr

[Steve Halvorsen]

Ted:

MAKE sure you wash ALL the soap off. Dish washing soap contains SALT in it and will start to corrode the wings.
Sure makes a mess of the wing. I know from experience.

Steve H
Moose 213


----- Original Message ----
From: Ted Waltman <tedwaltman@i1ci.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 12:21:38 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Pressure test fuel tanks & seal leaks

Looking for comments & suggestions for pressure testing my fuel tanks later
this week. Here's what I plan to do per input from some A&P friends:

- Close/seal the filler cap

- Mist (spray) a soapy water solution over the top & bottom of the
fuel tank area

- Place a big (??) balloon over the fuel drain fitting

- Hook up low pressure (maybe 20psi) compressed air to the fuel
cross-feed output fitting, thereby.

- Inflate the balloon to a reasonable size, then turn off the air
compressor

- Watch the balloon for perhaps 20 minutes to insure it
(hopefully!!) remains the same size

- Look for air bubbles while continuing to mist more soapy water
over the entire fuel tank area.



If I do find leaks (who am I kidding-"If" <grin>), I have some flowable
Type-A Proseal. Per another Moose builder, he reported good results by
spreading a thin layer of the Type-A Proseal over the offending rivet or
seam then putting a very slight suction on the tank using a shop vac and
holding the hose over the filler cap with cupped hands. This method
resulted in a small bit of the Type-A Proseal being sucked into the leak.
I'm aware that one has to be VERY careful not to create any adverse air
pressure or risk collapsing/expanding the tank. Hence, this shop vac
portion of the procedure has me a bit concerned.



Suggestions, alternate approaches, ideas, comments all appreciated.



Ted Waltman





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[Bob Patterson]

Hi Ted !

Be careful of that high pressure too -- like maybe 1 - 3 lb is all
you should be adding .... 5 psi is enough to bulge the tank
permanently !!

The Shop-Vac trick works fine if you just leave the nozzle
LOOSE in the neck - don't close it off ! The idea is just to
lower the pressure inside VERY slightly ....

I would hold off on the soap until you see if the balloon
stays up - maybe you won't have any leaks !! The balloon
will change considerably with temperature, so it's good
to keep the shop steady ...

A stethoscope with a cone can be very handy for finding
even tiny leaks ....

--
......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
http://apatterson2.ordermygift.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Monday 11 February 2008 18:21, Ted Waltman wrote:

Looking for comments & suggestions for pressure testing my fuel tanks
later this week. Here's what I plan to do per input from some A&P
friends:

- Close/seal the filler cap

- Mist (spray) a soapy water solution over the top & bottom of
the fuel tank area

- Place a big (??) balloon over the fuel drain fitting

- Hook up low pressure (maybe 20psi) compressed air to the fuel
cross-feed output fitting, thereby.

- Inflate the balloon to a reasonable size, then turn off the air
compressor

- Watch the balloon for perhaps 20 minutes to insure it
(hopefully!!) remains the same size

- Look for air bubbles while continuing to mist more soapy water
over the entire fuel tank area.



If I do find leaks (who am I kidding-"If" <grin>), I have some flowable
Type-A Proseal. Per another Moose builder, he reported good results by
spreading a thin layer of the Type-A Proseal over the offending rivet or
seam then putting a very slight suction on the tank using a shop vac and
holding the hose over the filler cap with cupped hands. This method
resulted in a small bit of the Type-A Proseal being sucked into the leak.
I'm aware that one has to be VERY careful not to create any adverse air
pressure or risk collapsing/expanding the tank. Hence, this shop vac
portion of the procedure has me a bit concerned.



Suggestions, alternate approaches, ideas, comments all appreciated.



Ted Waltman

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[David Jackson]

For what it's worth. A local builder confided to me that he wished he had filled his tanks with water prior to doing the leak test. He would have discovered the leaks in the bottom of his tanks faster that way.

Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 12:00:12 -0800> From: shalvorsen@sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Pressure test fuel tanks & seal leaks> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com> > Ted:> > MAKE sure you wash ALL the soap off. Dish washing soap contains SALT in it and will start to corrode the wings.> Sure makes a mess of the wing. I know from experience.> > Steve H> Moose 213> > > ----- Original Message ----> From: Ted Waltman <tedwaltman@i1ci.com>> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com> Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 12:21:38 PM> Subject: [rebel-builders] Pressure test fuel tanks & seal leaks> > Looking for comments & suggestions for pressure testing my fuel tanks later> this week. Here's what I plan to do per input from some A&P friends:> > - Close/seal the filler cap> > - Mist (spray) a soapy water solution over the top & bottom of the> fuel tank area> > - Place a big (??) balloon over the fuel drain fitting> > - Hook up low pressure (maybe 20psi) compressed air to the fuel> cross-feed output fitt

ing, thereby.> > - Infl
a
te the balloon to a reasonable size, then turn off the air> compressor> > - Watch the balloon for perhaps 20 minutes to insure it> (hopefully!!) remains the same size> > - Look for air bubbles while continuing to mist more soapy water> over the entire fuel tank area.> > > > If I do find leaks (who am I kidding-"If" <grin>), I have some flowable> Type-A Proseal. Per another Moose builder, he reported good results by> spreading a thin layer of the Type-A Proseal over the offending rivet or> seam then putting a very slight suction on the tank using a shop vac and> holding the hose over the filler cap with cupped hands. This method> resulted in a small bit of the Type-A Proseal being sucked into the leak.> I'm aware that one has to be VERY careful not to create any adverse air> pressure or risk collapsing/expanding the tank. Hence, this shop vac> portion of the procedure has me a bit concerned.> > > > Suggestions, alternate approaches, ideas, comments all appreciated.> > > > Ted Waltman> >
> > > > --------------
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[Steve Halvorsen]

Water will only find the BIG leaks.

1/2 to 1 lb. pressure is all you need. Anything more will bulge the tanks.
1 lb. pressure on that big of a surface creates a lot of force.


----- Original Message ----
From: David Jackson <canadjn@hotmail.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 2:37:28 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Pressure test fuel tanks & seal leaks

For what it's worth. A local builder confided to me that he wished he had filled his tanks with water prior to doing the leak test. He would have discovered the leaks in the bottom of his tanks faster that way.

Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 12:00:12 -0800> From: shalvorsen@sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Pressure test fuel tanks & seal leaks> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com> > Ted:> > MAKE sure you wash ALL the soap off. Dish washing soap contains SALT in it and will start to corrode the wings.> Sure makes a mess of the wing. I know from experience.> > Steve H> Moose 213> > > ----- Original Message ----> From: Ted Waltman <tedwaltman@i1ci.com>> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com> Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 12:21:38 PM> Subject: [rebel-builders] Pressure test fuel tanks & seal leaks> > Looking for comments & suggestions for pressure testing my fuel tanks later> this week. Here's what I plan to do per input from some A&P friends:> > - Close/seal the filler cap> > - Mist (spray) a soapy water solution over the top & bottom of the> fuel tank area> > - Place a big (??) balloon over the fuel drain fitting> > - Hook up low pressure (maybe 20psi) compressed air to

the fuel> cross-feed ou
tput fitting, thereby.> > - Infl
a
te the balloon to a reasonable size, then turn off the air> compressor> > - Watch the balloon for perhaps 20 minutes to insure it> (hopefully!!) remains the same size> > - Look for air bubbles while continuing to mist more soapy water> over the entire fuel tank area.> > > > If I do find leaks (who am I kidding-"If" <grin>), I have some flowable> Type-A Proseal. Per another Moose builder, he reported good results by> spreading a thin layer of the Type-A Proseal over the offending rivet or> seam then putting a very slight suction on the tank using a shop vac and> holding the hose over the filler cap with cupped hands. This method> resulted in a small bit of the Type-A Proseal being sucked into the leak.> I'm aware that one has to be VERY careful not to create any adverse air> pressure or risk collapsing/expanding the tank. Hence, this shop vac> portion of the procedure has me a bit concerned.> > > > Suggestions, alternate approaches, ideas, comments all
appreciated.> > > > Ted W
altman> > > > > > --------------
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[Bob and Olga Johnson]

Hi Ted. Yes the condom is the way to go and can be secured to any of the
fuel or site gauge fittings. A soft piece of plastic or neoprene hose on
another fitting to "blow" into the tank just enough to inflate the condom to
an "erect" position. Fold over and pinch the tube you used to blow into. Now
watch or leave it alone overnight. The condom will go up and down with the
temperature change. The use of an air compressor is not necessary. Obviously
if the condom deflates entirely you have leaks. - Bob J (ps- take pictures
of the erect condom on the tank - makes interesting conversation)

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ted
Waltman
Sent: February-11-08 1:22 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Pressure test fuel tanks & seal leaks





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[Mike Kimball]

With the shop vac in the fuel filler I cupped my hands carefully around the
hose while watching the lower tank skin. I could see it deflect slightly
before the upper skin deflected. In this way I was able to prevent applying
too much vacuum. Just enough to wiggle the tank skin a little.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ted
Waltman
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 9:22 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Pressure test fuel tanks & seal leaks

Looking for comments & suggestions for pressure testing my fuel tanks later
this week. Here's what I plan to do per input from some A&P friends:

- Close/seal the filler cap

- Mist (spray) a soapy water solution over the top & bottom of the
fuel tank area

- Place a big (??) balloon over the fuel drain fitting

- Hook up low pressure (maybe 20psi) compressed air to the fuel
cross-feed output fitting, thereby.

- Inflate the balloon to a reasonable size, then turn off the air
compressor

- Watch the balloon for perhaps 20 minutes to insure it
(hopefully!!) remains the same size

- Look for air bubbles while continuing to mist more soapy water
over the entire fuel tank area.



If I do find leaks (who am I kidding-"If" <grin>), I have some flowable
Type-A Proseal. Per another Moose builder, he reported good results by
spreading a thin layer of the Type-A Proseal over the offending rivet or
seam then putting a very slight suction on the tank using a shop vac and
holding the hose over the filler cap with cupped hands. This method
resulted in a small bit of the Type-A Proseal being sucked into the leak.
I'm aware that one has to be VERY careful not to create any adverse air
pressure or risk collapsing/expanding the tank. Hence, this shop vac
portion of the procedure has me a bit concerned.



Suggestions, alternate approaches, ideas, comments all appreciated.



Ted Waltman





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