Wing assembly

[Joel Jacobs]

Read further ahead in the manual. The spar attach fittings are fastened
with bolts!

Joel

----- Original Message -----
From: "allsure" <allsure@iprimus.com.au>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 11:26 AM
Subject: Wing assembly


G'day

I have a question regarding the fitting of the rear spar attach fittings.
The manual says that the centre hole of the vertical flange on the inboard
bearing base will go through the rear spar attach fittings, but no
information is given as to what method of fastening is to be used or as to
what the rivet size should be.
Does a rivet go through the rear spar attach fittings and if so what size?
The standard RV1410 appears to short to do the job properly.
Could I rivet the base to the spar and then countersink the rear spar
fitting?
I would really appreciate some input.

Regards

Ian Donaldson


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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Ian, as Joel has pointed out the rear attach fitting should be bolted on only, with NO rivets through it. This leaves two choices for you. One: leave out the center rivet of the 3 on the vertical flange, of the bearing base, and only rivet at top and bottom. Check clearance with attach fitting in place before drilling for these 2 flange holes so they don't interfere with the fittings. OR drill for 3 holes and c/s the center rivet hole so the rivet sits below the attach fittings. I prefer to do the first choice as it allows for easier future repairs (god forbid) if they are ever needed. If a Rebel is ground looped and a wing goes into the ground, the impact force usually pushes in the cabin side at rear wing attach bulkhead and the torque tubes stack together through the cabin and bend the control horns and torque tube bearing holders IN BOTH WINGS.

If this ever happens to anyone, the best way to fix the bearing holders is to open the bottom skin completely across the span of the wing from the rear spar, forward to just shy of the rear tank bulkheads. This will give enough access to haul out the tube and put new bearing holders in. (I know, I've "been there, done that" on three wings already!)

Keep at it Ian, (so it's done ready for flying whenever I make it down to Australia! Just kidding!)

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: allsure <allsure@iprimus.com.au (allsure@iprimus.com.au)>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com) <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)>
Date: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: Wing assembly


G'day

I have a question regarding the fitting of the rear spar attach fittings. The manual says that the centre hole of the vertical flange on the inboard bearing base will go through the rear spar attach fittings, but no information is given as to what method of fastening is to be used or as to what the rivet size should be.
Does a rivet go through the rear spar attach fittings and if so what size? The standard RV1410 appears to short to do the job properly.
Could I rivet the base to the spar and then countersink the rear spar fitting?
I would really appreciate some input.

Regards

Ian Donaldson

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Ian, Yah but it costs me about $1.52 Cdn to buy a U.S $!!!!!! Ours are pretty close to each other though I believe! Cdn to Oz. Besides, too many people in Oz right now with the Olympics going on! I'll wait until they put the tourist prices back down to normal, when they've lost the captive audience!

I would c/sink that hole in the rear spar and install a RV4412 since it's already drilled. Make sure the rivet is just below the surface when pulled so it doesn't put stress on the attach fitting when it gets bolted down. Just make sure that the "empty" #30 hole through the fittings is nicely debured and polished out so it doesn't create a stress riser. The empty hole left in the fitting, will be better than expanding a rivet inside of it!

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: allsure <allsure@iprimus.com.au (allsure@iprimus.com.au)>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)>
Date: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: Wing assembly


G'day

Thanks to all for their responses.

I am aware that the rear attach fittings bolt on, but the manual says that the centre rivet on the hinge plate goes through the attach fitting and I already have drilled that hole through the fitting.

I like Wayne's idea of fitting a countersunk rivet under the attach fitting.

Would the hole in the fitting, not fitted with a rivet, cause a problem?

And Wayne, this is the ideal time to visit Oz. You will get about two Oz dollars for one US dollar. It makes for an extremely cheap holiday.

Regards

Ian Donaldson

---- Original Message -----

From: Wayne G. O'Shea (oifa@irishfield.on.ca)
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: Wing assembly


Ian, as Joel has pointed out the rear attach fitting should be bolted on only, with NO rivets through it. This leaves two choices for you. One: leave out the center rivet of the 3 on the vertical flange, of the bearing base, and only rivet at top and bottom. Check clearance with attach fitting in place before drilling for these 2 flange holes so they don't interfere with the fittings. OR drill for 3 holes and c/s the center rivet hole so the rivet sits below the attach fittings. I prefer to do the first choice as it allows for easier future repairs (god forbid) if they are ever needed. If a Rebel is ground looped and a wing goes into the ground, the impact force usually pushes in the cabin side at rear wing attach bulkhead and the torque tubes stack together through the cabin and bend the control horns and torque tube bearing holders IN BOTH WINGS.

If this ever happens to anyone, the best way to fix the bearing holders is to open the bottom skin completely across the span of the wing from the rear spar, forward to just shy of the rear tank bulkheads. This will give enough access to haul out the tube and put new bearing holders in. (I know, I've "been there, done that" on three wings already!)

Keep at it Ian, (so it's done ready for flying whenever I make it down to Australia! Just kidding!)

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: allsure <allsure@iprimus.com.au (allsure@iprimus.com.au)>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com) <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)>
Date: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: Wing assembly


G'day

I have a question regarding the fitting of the rear spar attach fittings. The manual says that the centre hole of the vertical flange on the inboard bearing base will go through the rear spar attach fittings, but no information is given as to what method of fastening is to be used or as to what the rivet size should be.
Does a rivet go through the rear spar attach fittings and if so what size? The standard RV1410 appears to short to do the job properly.
Could I rivet the base to the spar and then countersink the rear spar fitting?
I would really appreciate some input.

Regards

Ian Donaldson

[Roger & Alice Hoffman]

Ian,

I'm working in this area also and had the same question. I emailed Grant at
MAM Tech on 9/22 about this. However, to date I have not had a response from
him. I was wondering if this isn't drilled out for a AN-3 bolt?

You wrote:

G'day

I have a question regarding the fitting of the rear spar >attach fittings.

The manual says that the centre hole of >the vertical flange on the inboard
bearing base will go >through the rear spar attach fittings, but no

information is given as to what method of fastening is >to be used or as to

what the rivet size should be.

Does a rivet go through the rear spar attach fittings >and if so what size?

The standard RV1410 appears >to short to do the job properly.

Could I rivet the base to the spar and then >countersink the rear spar

fitting?

If/when I get a response from him I will forward the info to you if you
would like.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA


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[Roger & Alice Hoffman]

Now I'm confused!

As Ian has pointed out, the manual specifically states the center hole in
the vertical bearing base flange WILL be drilled through the rear spar
attach fittings.

But Wayne writes:

as Joel has pointed out the rear attach fitting should >be bolted on only,

with NO rivets through it.

Now I'm in the same boat as Ian. The hole is drilled...but I shouldn't
have??

An additional problem I ran into is the TOP hole in the vertical bearing
base flange when drilled through the spar, just scratched the edge of the
attach fittings. If I were to drill the top hole out to #30 (I haven't) it
would cut the edge of the attach bracket. The manual claims the bearing base
can be adjusted up/down on the spar to adjust the placement of the rivet
holes, but I found there is NO room for adjustment.

Wayne-a question if I may. If I counter sink the top two rivet holes, do I
countersink the rear spar and place the backing plate and attach brackets
over the rivet head, or do I countersink the backing plate (is it thick
enough to cs?) and bolt the attach fitting over it?

As a first time builder I've found that if there is anything about Murphy
Aircraft that gets me frustrated as hell, it is the poorly written builder's
manual.

Thanks for letting me vent.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA



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[allsure]

G'day

I have a question regarding the fitting of the rear spar attach fittings. The manual says that the centre hole of the vertical flange on the inboard bearing base will go through the rear spar attach fittings, but no information is given as to what method of fastening is to be used or as to what the rivet size should be.
Does a rivet go through the rear spar attach fittings and if so what size? The standard RV1410 appears to short to do the job properly.
Could I rivet the base to the spar and then countersink the rear spar fitting?
I would really appreciate some input.

Regards

Ian Donaldson

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

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Roger, Ian and All,

Thinking I may have thrown you a curve ball, I sat down and read the manual
for the first time in about 5 years! Read two different versions as a matter
of fact.

The older manual, back in the plastic tank days where "approximate time for
this job is 40 hours per wing" is stated. Just slightly optimistic, as I can
only do them in 104hrs/wing after 10+ wings. Step 67, I think it was, states
to place the inner bearing holder and drill 3 holes in each horizontal
flange and only the 2 outer holes in the vertical flange.

The wing manual dated 10/08/93 step #80 says how to place the inner bearing
holder and at step #81 states "Vertical flange, drill only the two outer
holes. Ensure that the upper and lower of these two holes clears the edges
of the aft wing attach fitting".

Maybe you have the newest version and something has changed here, but I
personally wouldn't be expanding a rivet directly behind (to the side) of
the center bolt, of the 3 outer, fitting attach bolts. You are of course
free to do what ever you want though, as the project IS yours. (I have also
seen severely damaged A/C with boomeranged wings, that these seemingly light
fittings were left damage free!)

Yes Roger, if you are going to countersink, countersink the doubler plate as
it is .032 and is more than thick enough to c/sink for a RV4412 rivet!

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Roger & Alice Hoffman <rognal@continet.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 9:13 AM
Subject: Wing Assembly

Now I'm confused!

As Ian has pointed out, the manual specifically states the center hole in
the vertical bearing base flange WILL be drilled through the rear spar
attach fittings.

But Wayne writes:

as Joel has pointed out the rear attach fitting should >be bolted on only,

with NO rivets through it.

Now I'm in the same boat as Ian. The hole is drilled...but I shouldn't
have??

An additional problem I ran into is the TOP hole in the vertical bearing
base flange when drilled through the spar, just scratched the edge of the
attach fittings. If I were to drill the top hole out to #30 (I haven't) it
would cut the edge of the attach bracket. The manual claims the bearing

base

can be adjusted up/down on the spar to adjust the placement of the rivet
holes, but I found there is NO room for adjustment.

Wayne-a question if I may. If I counter sink the top two rivet holes, do I
countersink the rear spar and place the backing plate and attach brackets
over the rivet head, or do I countersink the backing plate (is it thick
enough to cs?) and bolt the attach fitting over it?

As a first time builder I've found that if there is anything about Murphy
Aircraft that gets me frustrated as hell, it is the poorly written

builder's

manual.

Thanks for letting me vent.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA



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[allsure]

G'day

Thanks to all for their responses.

I am aware that the rear attach fittings bolt on, but the manual says that the centre rivet on the hinge plate goes through the attach fitting and I already have drilled that hole through the fitting.

I like Wayne's idea of fitting a countersunk rivet under the attach fitting.

Would the hole in the fitting, not fitted with a rivet, cause a problem?

And Wayne, this is the ideal time to visit Oz. You will get about two Oz dollars for one US dollar. It makes for an extremely cheap holiday.

Regards

Ian Donaldson

---- Original Message -----

From: Wayne G. O'Shea (oifa@irishfield.on.ca)
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: Wing assembly


Ian, as Joel has pointed out the rear attach fitting should be bolted on only, with NO rivets through it. This leaves two choices for you. One: leave out the center rivet of the 3 on the vertical flange, of the bearing base, and only rivet at top and bottom. Check clearance with attach fitting in place before drilling for these 2 flange holes so they don't interfere with the fittings. OR drill for 3 holes and c/s the center rivet hole so the rivet sits below the attach fittings. I prefer to do the first choice as it allows for easier future repairs (god forbid) if they are ever needed. If a Rebel is ground looped and a wing goes into the ground, the impact force usually pushes in the cabin side at rear wing attach bulkhead and the torque tubes stack together through the cabin and bend the control horns and torque tube bearing holders IN BOTH WINGS.

If this ever happens to anyone, the best way to fix the bearing holders is to open the bottom skin completely across the span of the wing from the rear spar, forward to just shy of the rear tank bulkheads. This will give enough access to haul out the tube and put new bearing holders in. (I know, I've "been there, done that" on three wings already!)

Keep at it Ian, (so it's done ready for flying whenever I make it down to Australia! Just kidding!)

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: allsure <allsure@iprimus.com.au (allsure@iprimus.com.au)>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com) <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)>
Date: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: Wing assembly


G'day

I have a question regarding the fitting of the rear spar attach fittings. The manual says that the centre hole of the vertical flange on the inboard bearing base will go through the rear spar attach fittings, but no information is given as to what method of fastening is to be used or as to what the rivet size should be.
Does a rivet go through the rear spar attach fittings and if so what size? The standard RV1410 appears to short to do the job properly.
Could I rivet the base to the spar and then countersink the rear spar fitting?
I would really appreciate some input.

Regards

Ian Donaldson

[allsure]

G'day Wayne

Thanks for your response. I will go with the countersink rivet method.

Whilst there are a few extra people down here for the Olympics games in Sydney, you must remember that Australia is as big as mainland USA, but with about 18 million people. It is never crowded anywhere! Tourist prices in Sydney are increased but the rest of Australia is just normal.

For anyone wanting a great time OZ is the place to visit.

Thanks again and regards

Ian Donaldson

----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea (oifa@irishfield.on.ca)
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: Wing assembly


Ian, Yah but it costs me about $1.52 Cdn to buy a U.S $!!!!!! Ours are pretty close to each other though I believe! Cdn to Oz. Besides, too many people in Oz right now with the Olympics going on! I'll wait until they put the tourist prices back down to normal, when they've lost the captive audience!

I would c/sink that hole in the rear spar and install a RV4412 since it's already drilled. Make sure the rivet is just below the surface when pulled so it doesn't put stress on the attach fitting when it gets bolted down. Just make sure that the "empty" #30 hole through the fittings is nicely debured and polished out so it doesn't create a stress riser. The empty hole left in the fitting, will be better than expanding a rivet inside of it!

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: allsure <allsure@iprimus.com.au (allsure@iprimus.com.au)>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)>
Date: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: Wing assembly


G'day

Thanks to all for their responses.

I am aware that the rear attach fittings bolt on, but the manual says that the centre rivet on the hinge plate goes through the attach fitting and I already have drilled that hole through the fitting.

I like Wayne's idea of fitting a countersunk rivet under the attach fitting.

Would the hole in the fitting, not fitted with a rivet, cause a problem?

And Wayne, this is the ideal time to visit Oz. You will get about two Oz dollars for one US dollar. It makes for an extremely cheap holiday.

Regards

Ian Donaldson

---- Original Message -----

From: Wayne G. O'Shea (oifa@irishfield.on.ca)
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: Wing assembly


Ian, as Joel has pointed out the rear attach fitting should be bolted on only, with NO rivets through it. This leaves two choices for you. One: leave out the center rivet of the 3 on the vertical flange, of the bearing base, and only rivet at top and bottom. Check clearance with attach fitting in place before drilling for these 2 flange holes so they don't interfere with the fittings. OR drill for 3 holes and c/s the center rivet hole so the rivet sits below the attach fittings. I prefer to do the first choice as it allows for easier future repairs (god forbid) if they are ever needed. If a Rebel is ground looped and a wing goes into the ground, the impact force usually pushes in the cabin side at rear wing attach bulkhead and the torque tubes stack together through the cabin and bend the control horns and torque tube bearing holders IN BOTH WINGS.

If this ever happens to anyone, the best way to fix the bearing holders is to open the bottom skin completely across the span of the wing from the rear spar, forward to just shy of the rear tank bulkheads. This will give enough access to haul out the tube and put new bearing holders in. (I know, I've "been there, done that" on three wings already!)

Keep at it Ian, (so it's done ready for flying whenever I make it down to Australia! Just kidding!)

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

[allsure]

G'day Roger

I would appreciate it if you would let us all know of the official factory
fix.

I like Wayne's idea of countersinking the centre rivet under the attach
fittings.

Thanks and regards

Ian Donaldson

----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger & Alice Hoffman" <rognal@continet.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 8:00 PM
Subject: Wing Assembly

Ian,

I'm working in this area also and had the same question. I emailed Grant

at

MAM Tech on 9/22 about this. However, to date I have not had a response

from

him. I was wondering if this isn't drilled out for a AN-3 bolt?

You wrote:

G'day

I have a question regarding the fitting of the rear spar >attach

fittings.

The manual says that the centre hole of >the vertical flange on the

inboard

bearing base will go >through the rear spar attach fittings, but no

information is given as to what method of fastening is >to be used or as

to

what the rivet size should be.

Does a rivet go through the rear spar attach fittings >and if so what

size?

The standard RV1410 appears >to short to do the job properly.

Could I rivet the base to the spar and then >countersink the rear spar

fitting?

If/when I get a response from him I will forward the info to you if you
would like.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA

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[allsure]

G'day Roger

I'm glad that I'm not the only one that has trouble with the manual.

In regards to the top rivet I have gently relieved the attach fittings to go
around the rivet. It seemed like the best thing to do at the time! The
thought of countersinking the rivet into thr rear spar just did not occur to
me.

There is not any room for adjustment on the base flange if you want to
retain proper edge clearances.

I look forward to hearing how the factory suggest this be done. I just hope
that I have not screwed up!

Regards

Ian Donaldson

----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger & Alice Hoffman" <rognal@continet.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 9:13 PM
Subject: Wing Assembly

Now I'm confused!

As Ian has pointed out, the manual specifically states the center hole in
the vertical bearing base flange WILL be drilled through the rear spar
attach fittings.

But Wayne writes:

as Joel has pointed out the rear attach fitting should >be bolted on

only,

with NO rivets through it.

Now I'm in the same boat as Ian. The hole is drilled...but I shouldn't
have??

An additional problem I ran into is the TOP hole in the vertical bearing
base flange when drilled through the spar, just scratched the edge of the
attach fittings. If I were to drill the top hole out to #30 (I haven't) it
would cut the edge of the attach bracket. The manual claims the bearing

base

can be adjusted up/down on the spar to adjust the placement of the rivet
holes, but I found there is NO room for adjustment.

Wayne-a question if I may. If I counter sink the top two rivet holes, do I
countersink the rear spar and place the backing plate and attach brackets
over the rivet head, or do I countersink the backing plate (is it thick
enough to cs?) and bolt the attach fitting over it?

As a first time builder I've found that if there is anything about Murphy
Aircraft that gets me frustrated as hell, it is the poorly written

builder's

manual.

Thanks for letting me vent.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA

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[Roger & Alice Hoffman]

Ian & Wayne,

Ian-No response yet from MAM regarding that bearing base rivet hole
question. I sent a second request today.

Wayne-Thanks for the help. It is greatly appreciated.

Roger #687R
Eugene, OR USA

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[Roger & Alice Hoffman]

Ian,

I still have had no response yet from MAM regarding the center hole in the
vertical flange of the bearing base.

I did have another builder email me directly about this. He is also
currently working on the wing and had the same question about this
particular hole. He emailed MAM and Brian advised him to "use Avex for
the hole that picks up the bearing base, probably an RV1414".

Thought I'd pass that info along to you.

Roger #687R
Eugene, OR USA


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[Terry Dazey]

Joel Jacobs wrote:

Well, over the weekend I just had to check out mine further. I don't have
any rivet hole in the rear attach fittings and didn't remember
countersinking one under the flange. I dug out my pictures and manual and
found in the manual where it said 'drill the two end holes ONLY in the
vertical flange of the bearing mount - and insure the rivets don't nick the
edge of the flange'. I may have a different manual revision than you
though - my serial number is 416.

Joel
l

Joel/Roger and all Interested Rebelheads:

Here is the email I sent to MAM last week (with his answer below). I also had the
question of drilling that last eighth inch hole in the aft wing fitting. And Yes, I have
already drilled it.

Subject: Swiss Cheese

Hello Brian:

Question for you:

Rebel 662
Chapter 10.6

I am preparing to attach my aft and front spars with all associated fittings, doublers
etc.

I have drilled the two sandwiched Rear Spar Fittings and Spar up to the 3/16 bolt holes.
I have also accomplished Chapter 10.6, step 12 in your manual where it says "The center
hole of the vertical flange on the inboard Bearing Base goes through the Rear Spar
Attach Fittings". The Rear Spar Fittings now have a total of eight holes (1 each 1/4
inch, 6 each 3/16 and 1 each 1/8 inch). My question is where or what step number does it
mention what bolts, nuts and /or rivets to attach this Rear Spar Fitting along with the
1/8 inch hole?

I am guessing that the 3/16 holes get AN3 bolts, nuts and washers, but I cannot find in
the manual how to treat the 1/8 hole that was drilled in 10.6 Step 12 (through the
Bearing Base, Spar, Attach Plate and the two Attach Fittings).

I have attached a couple photos of the parts in question. (Note that there are some
extra holes drilled at the flange location so I can attach some nutplates inside so I
can eliminate regular nuts. This would facilitate easy removal and install of the W-125
Hinges).

I hope I make sense. I sure want to continue with the project so I can look forward to
putting it on amphibs!

Again, it was nice meeting you and Robyn first hand.

Talk to you later.

Terry Dazey
Seattle, WA
Rebel 662

Brian wrote:

Hi Tery,
Page 53, Chapt. 8.0. para. 15 tells you about the bolts. Use an avex for the hole that
picks up the bearing base, probably an RV1414.
Cheers,
Brian Godden

----END OF EMAIL FROM BRIAN AT MAM---

I don't know about you guys, but my Chapter 8.0 is the Stabilizer chapter that has
nothing to do with the Wing Aft Fitting. AND I haven't had time to accomplish measuring
the thickness of the pieces versus the length of an Avex 1414.

My manual is dated 26/06/98.

Any comments?




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[Joel Jacobs]

Well, over the weekend I just had to check out mine further. I don't have
any rivet hole in the rear attach fittings and didn't remember
countersinking one under the flange. I dug out my pictures and manual and
found in the manual where it said 'drill the two end holes ONLY in the
vertical flange of the bearing mount - and insure the rivets don't nick the
edge of the flange'. I may have a different manual revision than you
though - my serial number is 416.

Joel

----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger & Alice Hoffman" <rognal@continet.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Cc: <allsure@iprimus.com.au>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 2:29 PM
Subject: Wing assembly

Ian,

I still have had no response yet from MAM regarding the center hole in the
vertical flange of the bearing base.

I did have another builder email me directly about this. He is also
currently working on the wing and had the same question about this
particular hole. He emailed MAM and Brian advised him to "use Avex for
the hole that picks up the bearing base, probably an RV1414".

Thought I'd pass that info along to you.

Roger #687R
Eugene, OR USA

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