Reamers

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

All the step & straight reamers I have in my box are for power driven. Some
taper reamers are hand turned but you don't want a tapered hole! Also some
adjustable straight reamers available that can be hand or power driven. I
don't know what you've ordered!

...gotta get back to doing Rev Can year end T2's......what a way to spend a
day (or should I say week+!)....especially when it's my birthday today!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Poirier" <oxyport@globetrotter.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: ProSeal....

Wayne
I do not remember part number (I am at my office), but one of the first
job. You make 12 holes in a "part" than you put it on the main spar, use
the "part" as template, drill both to 5/32", reame them to 3/16, deburred
and assemble with AN3 bolt and proseal instead of primer ..... Anyway I
have order a reamer but do you use it by hand...?
Thanks again
Jean
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: ProSeal....

Jean, what are they referring to that needs to be reamed??

There isn't much that needs that kind of precision on the Rebel. If it's

a

bolt hole drill it #12 for a nice tight fit and if a rivet #11 is fine
(solid rivet you might need #10 if it's a deep hole but this only

applies

building the SR).

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Poirier" <oxyport@globetrotter.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 8:49 AM
Subject: ProSeal....

Hello...

Do you know where I can find ProSeal in Eastern Canada (Ontario or

Quebec)?

Do have info on the products: Manufacturer, part number, size
available, mil

spec, etc.

On the first parts to be fabricate on the wing, manual say to drill

5/32"

and then use a rimer to go to 3/16". Standard 3/16" reamer for

machinist

that Acklands sale for $18.00 is ok? Do you use them in a drill or by
hand?....

Jean
Rebel 747R

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[Robert Johnson]

HAPPY BIRTHDAY WAYNE O' -I know what thats like. I just turned "60" on
St.Patricks day. - Bob J.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 12:59 PM
Subject: Reamers


what a way to spend a

day (or should I say week+!)....especially when it's my birthday today!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Poirier" <oxyport@globetrotter.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: ProSeal....

Wayne
I do not remember part number (I am at my office), but one of the first
job. You make 12 holes in a "part" than you put it on the main spar,

use

the "part" as template, drill both to 5/32", reame them to 3/16,

deburred

and assemble with AN3 bolt and proseal instead of primer ..... Anyway I
have order a reamer but do you use it by hand...?
Thanks again
Jean
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: ProSeal....

Jean, what are they referring to that needs to be reamed??

There isn't much that needs that kind of precision on the Rebel. If

it's

a

bolt hole drill it #12 for a nice tight fit and if a rivet #11 is fine
(solid rivet you might need #10 if it's a deep hole but this only

applies

building the SR).

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Poirier" <oxyport@globetrotter.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 8:49 AM
Subject: ProSeal....

Quebec)?

mil

spec, etc.

5/32"

and then use a rimer to go to 3/16". Standard 3/16" reamer for

machinist

that Acklands sale for $18.00 is ok? Do you use them in a drill or by
hand?....

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[bransom]

-> Jean,
-> I recall seeing the word "ream" in MAM used as in "ream the holes out with
a
-> #11 drill". I don't know how general this is, but it seems MAM simply
means
-> that if the holes were started as a smaller hole to get better position
-> accuracy, reaming really means to open it up to it's final diameter, and
-> possibly doing this in small drill size increments to avoid wobbled holes,
-> but not necessarily done with a reamer. I'll double check my MAM on this
-> tonight.

I looked at a few sections of the wing construction in the old and new MAMs.
The new MAM says ream, and the tools required section lists reamers, whereas
the old MAM says "ream the holes out with a #11 drill" (and doesn't list
reamers as required tools). An example is the main spar cap bolt holes. So,
I suspect they were seeing some messy holes early on and expected this type
of area to be better quality.
-Ben Ransom


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[Jean Poirier]

Thanks Ben
I have already order a reamer! not really expensive and if it make a better
job in critical area.......
Jean
----- Original Message -----
From: <bransom@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: Reamers

-> Jean,
-> I recall seeing the word "ream" in MAM used as in "ream the holes out

with

a
-> #11 drill". I don't know how general this is, but it seems MAM simply
means
-> that if the holes were started as a smaller hole to get better position
-> accuracy, reaming really means to open it up to it's final diameter,

and

-> possibly doing this in small drill size increments to avoid wobbled

holes,

-> but not necessarily done with a reamer. I'll double check my MAM on

this

-> tonight.

I looked at a few sections of the wing construction in the old and new

MAMs.

The new MAM says ream, and the tools required section lists reamers,

whereas

the old MAM says "ream the holes out with a #11 drill" (and doesn't list
reamers as required tools). An example is the main spar cap bolt holes.

So,

I suspect they were seeing some messy holes early on and expected this

type

of area to be better quality.
-Ben Ransom

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[Robert Johnson]

Jean, I agree you are doing the right thing. When I built my Rebel I used
reamers on all the critical bolt insertion areas, like strut attachment,
landing gear, Engine mount bolts, horizontal stab/ rudder - well you get the
picture. It only required 4 reamers - 3/16, 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8. These where
straight flute " hand reamers" which I ran in a variable speed rechargable
drill. It does make a much better job. - Bob J Rebel 652
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Poirier" <oxyport@globetrotter.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: Reamers

Thanks Ben
I have already order a reamer! not really expensive and if it make a

better

job in critical area.......
Jean
----- Original Message -----
From: <bransom@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: Reamers

-> Jean,
-> I recall seeing the word "ream" in MAM used as in "ream the holes out

with

a
-> #11 drill". I don't know how general this is, but it seems MAM

simply

means
-> that if the holes were started as a smaller hole to get better

position

-> accuracy, reaming really means to open it up to it's final diameter,

and

-> possibly doing this in small drill size increments to avoid wobbled

holes,

-> but not necessarily done with a reamer. I'll double check my MAM on

this

-> tonight.

I looked at a few sections of the wing construction in the old and new

MAMs.

The new MAM says ream, and the tools required section lists reamers,

whereas

the old MAM says "ream the holes out with a #11 drill" (and doesn't list
reamers as required tools). An example is the main spar cap bolt holes.

So,

I suspect they were seeing some messy holes early on and expected this

type

of area to be better quality.
-Ben Ransom

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[Craig Walls]

Hi fellas!



I

[Craig Walls]

Thanks to those who replied to my reamer questions. This group has been a
gold mine for me. I wish I lived closer to more of you. Of course, that'd
mean you'd all have to move because you couldn't drag me from Alaska!
Thanks again. Craig





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[Brian Godden]

I have a set of chuckable reamers: 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 1/2, 9/16 and 5/8. It includes an extra tapered 5/8.

Anybody interested e-mail me at:

brian_godden@hotmail.com

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