Do you want this big green box to go away? Well here's how...

Click here for full update

Wildcat! photo archives restored.

Click here for full update

Donors can now disable ads.

Click here for instructions

Add yourself to the user map.

Click here for instructions

What to order?

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
Locked
klehman

What to order?

Post by klehman » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm

Hi Charles

This obviously works for c of g but the downside of this is that you are
increasing the yawing moment of inertia by putting more weight farther
from the c of g. That generaly makes a taildragger more difficult to
keep from ground looping. Don't know how large an effect it is in
practice, but there have been a few Rebels that have groundlooped. There
was discussion of this a few months or so ago.

C/M Beck wrote:
5.Firewall position: Leave standard...put survival gear and tools, etc, in
a tail compartment...possibly battery as well. Would this get CG in
range?

You may wish to wait till you have the engine before ordering the
mount. What if you find a great buy on a conical mount engine after
you've bought the dynofocal mount.

I am using tinted acrylic in the skylights but I wouln't want a tinted
windshield at night.

Ken

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

C/M Beck

What to order?

Post by C/M Beck » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm

Hello to all...and thanks for a very interesting discussion group. Like
some others, I have been following the comments on Rebel design and
construction. I am just about ready to order a Rebel. There certainly are
a lot of opinions here to consider. I intend to use the Rebel to fly out
of some rough strips, probably go with an O320...the goal is to have as
durable and safe an aircraft as possible. My considerations follow.

1.Gear choice: Spring gear...I have begun to have doubts about this choice.
MAM says I can get the Super Rebel (thicker) wrap to install around the
gear attachment to help with distortion and canning. Would this help? (MAM
still maintains that the spring gear would be the best choice). After
reading the comments on this list about reinforcing the spring gear
attachment, I'm leaning toward standard gear with compression springs
rather than bungees.

2.Flaperons: Stay with the standard fabric covered flaperons... more
reponsive, simpler, lighter than split or metalized (Flaperons may have
higher stick forces when extended than split flap/ailerons?)

3.Leading wing edge: Upgrade to .032 leading edge as on Elite...less risk
of dings, can be flush riveted.

4.Float attachment fittings: Not going on floats now, but it sounds like it
"firms up" the fuselage and would be a plus if ever sold.

5.Firewall position: Leave standard...put survival gear and tools, etc, in
a tail compartment...possibly battery as well. Would this get CG in range?

6.Firewall forward: Order the high perf. cowling and Lyc. Dyna-Focal mount,
but not the entire firewall package...not a good enough value.

7.Pitot-static system: Order the factory system...or maybe fabricate?

8.Windshield: I would like to go with tinted or polarized windshield and
door plastic. Are there any sources for this? MAM?

9.Doors: Front hinged doors...upper and lower tinted. Does a top hinge
offer many advantages?

I know that a lot of this has already been covered...but I'm about ready to
order and would appreciate any further input about my choices.

Thanks, Charles Beck...Iowa



*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Wayne G. O'Shea

What to order?

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 163 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 20:00:45 on 11 Sep 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Charles,

My two cents below each of your questions!

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
1.Gear choice: Spring gear...I have begun to have doubts about this
choice.
MAM says I can get the Super Rebel (thicker) wrap to install around the
gear attachment to help with distortion and canning. Would this help?
(MAM
still maintains that the spring gear would be the best choice). After
reading the comments on this list about reinforcing the spring gear
attachment, I'm leaning toward standard gear with compression springs
rather than bungees.
I haven't worked on a Rebel with the spring gear set up, so will not comment
as to it's pros/faults. If you do go the normal style gear, you definitely
want to tie it all together with some good compression spring gear struts
made from 4130 chromemoly. (I'm not advertising, as I'm not currently making
them) Aircraft can be (and have been) ground looped with these struts
holding the legs together, as opposed to the bungee system struts that will
rip apart and leave a wing stuck in the ground. If you go with bungees make
sure you put some good "Alaskan" style safety cables on the stuts, hooked to
bolts other than the strut retainer bolts. (ie; an outer axle block bolt at
the bottom and a bolt on the opposite side of the wishbone at the top)
2.Flaperons: Stay with the standard fabric covered flaperons... more
reponsive, simpler, lighter than split or metalized (Flaperons may have
higher stick forces when extended than split flap/ailerons?)
Yes my aluminum flaperons have higher stick forces than fabric covered ones
(but I had to be different). Flaperons in general have higher stick forces
as everything is down and dirty as opposed to flaps and ailerons, were you
are only moving the outboard 6 foot aileron. STOL characteristics are
defeated somewhat splitting the flaperons though, because they are limited
to MAM's 18 degrees down (although my aluminized ones haven't blown off at
23) even if you split to flaps and ailerons. Thus you loose quite a bit of
flap as opposed to 12 feet of flap being down full span
3.Leading wing edge: Upgrade to .032 leading edge as on Elite...less risk
of dings, can be flush riveted.
This one is a personal thing! Personally I can't see why anyone wants to
bother spending the time C/S the leading edge to make it look different than
the rest of the aircraft. Also think of all those little rivet heads as
vortex generators. The 20 thou L. Edge is quite ridgid once formed into it's
D shape. Just be really careful handling it, to get it there (put a 14' 2 x
4 through it to carry around)! The .032 leading edges are a real "bear" to
get into place (I know from doing a set of SR wings). You have to use
ratchet straps to pull it into place and you deform the L.E. ribs while
doing so. Since a fair number of the SR L.E. ribs are heavier than the
Rebel's ribs, I would think the Rebel ribs would be very easily damaged and
deformed trying to install a .032 skin!
4.Float attachment fittings: Not going on floats now, but it sounds like
it
"firms up" the fuselage and would be a plus if ever sold.
Definitely install the float fittings for both reasons!
5.Firewall position: Leave standard...put survival gear and tools, etc, in
a tail compartment...possibly battery as well. Would this get CG in
range?

Another personal decission! I always leave them in the normal (original)
position!
6.Firewall forward: Order the high perf. cowling and Lyc. Dyna-Focal
mount,
but not the entire firewall package...not a good enough value.
I have priced it all out and you can not buy NEW for less (especially once
you start to pay shipping costs from different suppliers to get it all) than
the MAM firewall forward kit price (even at the prices I pay with "dealer"
accts everywhere)! Take into account the cost of a Stainless steel cross
over exhaust ($1000 +), heat shrouds for cabin and carb heat etc.,
Alternator, regulator etc, gascolator, Essex Primer (that are now selling
from Aircraft Spruce at $128.35 U.S.), oil cooler at about $400 cdn, 3 oil
&fuel lines (premade) are over $100 each from any aircraft supply house,
5052 baffle material, the mount, the rubbers at $80 each x 4, etc, etc, If
you can shop around and come out ahead, let us all know where you shopped!
7.Pitot-static system: Order the factory system...or maybe fabricate?
Previous discussion in achives only a couple days ago about this one. Very
easy to make your own VFR tube or can go with heated one for IFR or that
unexpected ice storm!
8.Windshield: I would like to go with tinted or polarized windshield and
door plastic. Are there any sources for this? MAM?
I really like the looks of my Green tint one on my personal Rebel, but it
does get dark sooner! You can get Green and I believe Grey tint from MAM
(L&P make their windshields but you can't order direct, I've tried)
9.Doors: Front hinged doors...upper and lower tinted. Does a top hinge
offer many advantages?
I prefer my upswing window. Much easier to open and close while flying than
the down flop style. Although it does give you about an inch or so less head
room when boarding the aircraft and a handle to hit your head on at the same
time!
I know that a lot of this has already been covered...but I'm about ready
to
order and would appreciate any further input about my choices.

Thanks, Charles Beck...Iowa



*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

rebelair

What to order?

Post by rebelair » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm

Hi Charles

I am in agreement with Ken. I think a tinted windshield is very unwise for
night flying. I love to fly at night, but, I did so on Saturday with lots
of haze. A tinted windshield then would have made me feel very
uncomfortable.

I also bought & made smoked grey/brown skylights. They were all ready to go
in & then I changed them to clear. I appreciate the much greater light in
the cockpit but are not of overwhelming value.

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: klehman@albedo.net [mailto:klehman@albedo.net]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 7:06 PM
To: (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
Subject: Re: What to order?


Hi Charles

This obviously works for c of g but the downside of this is that you are
increasing the yawing moment of inertia by putting more weight farther
from the c of g. That generaly makes a taildragger more difficult to
keep from ground looping. Don't know how large an effect it is in
practice, but there have been a few Rebels that have groundlooped. There
was discussion of this a few months or so ago.

C/M Beck wrote:
5.Firewall position: Leave standard...put survival gear and tools, etc, in
a tail compartment...possibly battery as well. Would this get CG in
range?

You may wish to wait till you have the engine before ordering the
mount. What if you find a great buy on a conical mount engine after
you've bought the dynofocal mount.

I am using tinted acrylic in the skylights but I wouln't want a tinted
windshield at night.

Ken

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Bob Patterson

What to order?

Post by Bob Patterson » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm

Hi Charles !!

Well, I just couldn't resist ! These comments are purely
<MY> opinions and choices, but might be helpful for you .....
(I have about as many biases as anybody :-) )

I've mixed them into your letter below ....

....bobp

----------------------------orig.--------------------------------
At 02:47 PM 9/11/00 +0100, you wrote:
Hello to all...and thanks for a very interesting discussion group. Like
some others, I have been following the comments on Rebel design and
construction. I am just about ready to order a Rebel. There certainly are
a lot of opinions here to consider. I intend to use the Rebel to fly out
of some rough strips, probably go with an O320...the goal is to have as
durable and safe an aircraft as possible. My considerations follow.

1.Gear choice: Spring gear...I have begun to have doubts about this choice.
MAM says I can get the Super Rebel (thicker) wrap to install around the
gear attachment to help with distortion and canning. Would this help? (MAM
still maintains that the spring gear would be the best choice). After
reading the comments on this list about reinforcing the spring gear
attachment, I'm leaning toward standard gear with compression springs
rather than bungees.
"Super Rebel Wrap" ??!!! Don't know where this came from !! The
Super Rebel has a COMPLETELY different gear attachment method - I REALLY
doubt that ANY of it could be adapted to a Rebel. The SR floor is about
3 or 4" deep - there is NO double floor in the front of the Rebel ....

In any case, <I> believe you are correct - <MY> choice is the
standard gear. The bungee gear works fine, and, for years, I have
felt that the die-spring gear was harder on the airframe ....
(Recently had a long conversation with an aircraft design engineer
with 30 years experience, about where loads go, the result being that;
properly designed die-spring gear WILL transfer more loads to the airframe,
but only after you pass the 4 G range - at which point you could get
damage even with bungees !)

For those who know me, I'm getting used to the taste of crow
- a little BBQ sauce helps ! ;-) [ first, an O-320, and now
die-spring gear, to boot ... sigh .... - but, BOY does it GO !!!! :-) ]

You will get THE smoothest ride if you use steel tubes
to mount the die-springs (as Wayne has built - and likely will again - ).
If you DO this, you MUST also add the gear mounting bushing kit that
Gord Mohr sells - this is VITAL, because the gear is ALWAYS moving
on the die-springs. These bushings should be lubricated regularly, too.
Having flown all the different gear variations, I must say again
that you will get THE smoothest ride with the die springs !! I don't
even notice the rough taxiways at Brampton, and don't get the 'rolling'
that the spring gear can give....
2.Flaperons: Stay with the standard fabric covered flaperons... more
reponsive, simpler, lighter than split or metalized (Flaperons may have
higher stick forces when extended than split flap/ailerons?)
Absolutely !!! If you split them, you end up with HALF the
flap AND HALF the aileron, AND you lose the advantage of altering the
WHOLE airfoil section for negative flap cruising !!
3.Leading wing edge: Upgrade to .032 leading edge as on Elite...less risk
of dings, can be flush riveted.
Have NO dings - in 10 years of Rebelling !! Can't see any need
for the extra weight ...
4.Float attachment fittings: Not going on floats now, but it sounds like it
"firms up" the fuselage and would be a plus if ever sold.
Right on !!! Both are good reasons for doing it !
5.Firewall position: Leave standard...put survival gear and tools, etc, in
a tail compartment...possibly battery as well. Would this get CG in range?
Tough call !! Many builders HAVE done this, and their CofG's
ARE within the range ... Haven't noticed any big differences in
handling. Not moving the firewall certainly preserves your engine
options for later - you could even go to a Rotax 912 if 100LL disappears !
But - consider the 'barbell effect' of weight at both ends,in a spin ...
That extra forward arm could cause higher loads on the corner wraps,
firewall, etc. - possibly leading to higher maintenance down the road.
I now own an O-320 Rebel with the firewall in the original position,
and have no problems with it. I have also flown several other Rebels
with O-320's and Subarus (heavier) in this configuration, again, without
noting any problems. If you don't move it, and go against the factory's
recommendation, you are on your own ! It's not fair to complain later
if there are airframe problems !!
Sorry, that didn't help much, but gives you a few more things
to think about. In any case, you don't have to decide for some time -
you can build right up to the firewall (while shopping for an engine),
before you have to decide definitely !
6.Firewall forward: Order the high perf. cowling and Lyc. Dyna-Focal mount,
but not the entire firewall package...not a good enough value.
Ouch ! I feel some more crow coming on ....

<I> STILL am not a big fan of the "speed" cowl - it doesn't add ANY
speed, but does increase the cost by about $2,000, AND makes it hard
to work on the engine ..... The 'standard' cowl, with a fiberglass
nosebowl and aluminum sides, if modified for TWO piano hinges on
each side, makes the engine totally accessible, without forcing you
to find <somewhere> to put about 18 sq, ft. of fiberglass ... not
easy on floats !!
The crow ? Well..... my latest Rebel HAS the speed cowl -
and I have to admit, it DOES look sexy !! ( But it's <still> hard to
work on, expensive, and takes a lot of tweaking to get decent cooling !)

In any case - DON'T order anything UNTIL you actually HAVE
an engine !! You never know what bargains might appear - there might
even be a cheap diesel available by the time you're ready !!! ;-)
7.Pitot-static system: Order the factory system...or maybe fabricate?
<I> prefer to use a plain tube, at least 5/16" ID , mounted
above the wing strut - cheap, easy, and in a good location ...
(strictly VFRrr !!!) "Ve Follow Roads, Rivers, Railroads,
and Busses in a pinch !"
8.Windshield: I would like to go with tinted or polarized windshield and
door plastic. Are there any sources for this? MAM?
MAM can supply tinted windshields - <I> don't like the idea !
NOT good at night, under clouds, or in poor vis.. You CAN get tinted
roller-blind gadgets to use on the skylights - likely "A GOOD THING"(tm) :-)

<I> also DON'T like plastic doors - look sexy, I suppose, BUT
they're COLD, NOISY, and don't have POCKETS to stuff maps, sunglasses,
water bottles, tissues, zip-lock baggies .... (I need a LOT of junk ....
;-) )

Also, consider that your passengers will swear that the seat
gets 6" narrower for every thousand feet higher you go !!! :-) This
can be a REAL problem for folks who are a bit afraid of flying !
9.Doors: Front hinged doors...upper and lower tinted. Does a top hinge
offer many advantages?
Top hinges - "seaplane doors" - are very handy on floats. They
take a bit of work to install, (like - add 200 hours !!) ;-) ;-`)
In regular use, can be a pain !! They either fall on your head, bump
your head on the handles getting in & out, or are realllly difficult
to close ......
That said - I have seen several really nice installations on
Rebels. I think <I> would ONLY consider it <IF> I were going to be
on floats most of the time. (Unless, of course, one of those skilled
builders wanted to GIVE me a set !! ;-) ) [I'm getting used to crow.. ;-) ]

All of these 'extra' things can be nice, and really personalize
your Rebel, but I bet if you asked most builders who have done a LOT
of extras, the majority would tell you -
"Just build it as the factory suggests, and GO FLYING !!!
You can always add stuff LATER !"

Something you didn't mention, that <I> would do, is to order the
Rebel WITHOUT any fibreglass fairings, and use the wing and tail tips
supplied by Dave Fife, of 3D Composite Aircraft Parts Inc.. These
Hoerner style wing tips have reduced takeoff distance and stall speed,
while increasing cruise and handling quality - as well as saving you
about 60 hours (!) of building time, and looking great !!
(his email address is: Aircrafttips@yahoo.com )
(and NO, I don't get commission !)

I know that a lot of this has already been covered...but I'm about ready to
order and would appreciate any further input about my choices.

Thanks, Charles Beck...Iowa
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Sorry, these are all just <MY> highly subjective, purely personal,
non-factory approved, opinions - please add them to your pile of suggestions,
and sift accordingly !

Hope we've ALL helped a bit .....

(And, of course, if you'd like ME to write up your order .... just call! ;-) )

Thanks !!!

....bobp



*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------


Legeorgen

What to order?

Post by Legeorgen » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm

Bob,

I just love reading your responses, you have a gift for gab and a writing
style to go with it. Lots of good information and in an entertaining form
too. Thanks.

Tell me more about Dave Fife and his wing and tail feather tips. Can a wing
tip make that much of a difference in performance?

Bruce G 357R
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Wayne G. O'Shea

What to order?

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 164 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 13:21:59 on 13 Sep 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Ask anyone with a Cherokee 140 with Met-Co-Aire "Hoerner" wing tips! A huge
difference!

Wayne G. O'Shea

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@cs.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 1:45 AM
Subject: Re: What to order?

Tell me more about Dave Fife and his wing and tail feather tips. Can a
wing
tip make that much of a difference in performance?

Bruce G 357R
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Bob Patterson

What to order?

Post by Bob Patterson » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm

Gee, thanks, Bruce !! (Blush, blush !! ;-) )

Dave makes REALY NICE fibreglass tips. They're hot-water cured
in very smooth molds - they come out ready to install !!

Dave made the first set for Curt Martin, and they did a very
careful comparison test. They flew with the old tips first, recorded
performance, then went right in and changed tips, refilled to the
same fuel, and tested again. I seem to recall that their NO-FLAP
takeoff distance was about 380 ft with the original tips, and about
315 ft. with the Hoerner style tips ... (Please jump in Curt, if
you're listening ....)

They have been very careful NOT to make wild claims, but the
numbers are there, and EVERYONE who has installed the tips LIKES the
performance, though not everyone has had the chance to compare ...

The universal thing you hear is how beautiful these tips are !
Everyone is impressed by the quality of fit & finish !! The consensus
seems to be that using these tips will save you about 60 hours of
build time, and give you a nicer looking Rebel.

I've flown a fair number of Rebels, and I've seen that it
is VERY difficult to join the factory wing tips at the trailing edge so
that they are exactly the same. If one tip is 1/4" lower than the
other, you get a tendency to roll to one side - <almost> EVERY Rebel
I've flown, with factory tips, has tended to roll to the left ...
(some more than others - not a big problem, but a small nuisance ..)

I heartily recommend Dave's tips - they're NOT cheap, but
they ARE good !! (And allow LOTS of time for delivery - he's getting
busier ...)
.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 01:45 AM 9/13/00 EDT, you wrote:
Bob,

I just love reading your responses, you have a gift for gab and a writing
style to go with it. Lots of good information and in an entertaining form
too. Thanks.

Tell me more about Dave Fife and his wing and tail feather tips. Can a wing
tip make that much of a difference in performance?

Bruce G 357R
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Rebflyer

What to order?

Post by Rebflyer » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Rebflyer

What to order?

Post by Rebflyer » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm

Hi all,
I'm not sure if the other message went through without being completed or not. Can't seem to find any history so on the chance of repeating myself, here goes.
The day we tested was very cooprative. Same wind and temp through the duration of the test. ON the nose at about 5 to 8 mph and the airport was a slight uphill run. The speed run was done using the gps and flying over the same area at the same altitude, going in the same direction in the same order. I am grumbling at Dave though, his tips are now 3ot4 lbs. lighter and the molds are near perfection. Drill your holes skuff and paint!!
I think that it is important to mention that the main reason that these tips were even started was that Dave had helped me with the originals and he was determined to make a set that LOOKED better. The fact that they were then designed as a HOERner type came from an overall wish from other REbel builders.
When we began the flight testing with them, we had already succeded in doing what we originally wanted. The looked 100% better! The fact they didn't slow me down 6or 7 mph was a pure bonus!!
I think they make a great refinement to a great plane.
Now all I have to do is reorginize my life soI can get back to finishing the floats, I'm really jealous of the stories that are just hinted at!!
SO, keep at it it's worth it!! Curt N97MR

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------


Locked