Pretty much the same drill if you use either metal or plastic lines for the
'phibs retract system. With the plastic...I bring the lines under the
fuselage and T them there in the center and up thru the floor to the
selector valve. This way when you drop the floats...selector to
neutral/locked get inside while someone holds the tees outside and undo the
in/out lines and throw a union on them joining them together. No more than a
few drops of fluid will hit the cloth you put down as with the selector in
neutral air can't get in to let fluid out. Now that the lines are joined
tuck them up under the panel for wheel flying..with no worries if someone
hits your pump or selector valve. Heck give the nervous flier something to
do and select gear down and let them pump for hours as the fluid goes round
and round.
With metal lines I use a 90* bulkhead fitting for each line, on each side, a
few inches foreward of the fwd strut pickup and then tee these lines up
behind the panel and then to the selector valve. Same drill again...selector
neutral..pull the lines and put a flare fitting cap nut on each one without
losing a drop of fluid.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <
klehman@albedo.net>
To: <
rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Brake lines for floats
Wayne
Sounds like a good solution. Being a smartass I have brake cylinders on
all four pedals but they bleed easilly from the bottom up. I fed the
brake lines up through a tight fitting plastic conduit that goes
vertically through the 2X2 square tube. It let them come out inside the
gear fairing but now I can't pull the brake line back unless I remove
the ferrule on the end of it. Maybe another place to consider those
push loc fittings although I don't know about using them on the pedals
where there is movement....
I was thinking of the retract lines when I mentioned the ball valves.
Ken
Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
If I may suggest...
Take your brake lines for the floats right up to the pedal
cylinders...just
like you did with your wheel gear.
When I swap gear I drain the brake lines to empty the brake pedal
cylinders..drop the floats and pull the brake line completely
out..reinstall
the wheel gear with it's own brake lines right back to the pedal cylinders
and refill from the bottom. No joining mid line to add an air bubble
that's
hard to bleed and no mess what so ever.
Wayne
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