[rebel-builders] 1800 amphib bulkhead G

[Drew Dalgleish]

Regarding the hydraulic tubing:
After talking with several fellows I have decided to scrap the MAM
supplied stuff and go with DOT certified plastic air brake tubing and
metal fittings. I haven't decided about the brake line yet.

Ken

Hi Ken Thanks for the spring source. I started taking my gear apart a
couple days ago. I thought I could just take out the suspension tube but
everything has to come apart to get at them :( much wiser to make the
changes during construction. I'm having good luck with air brake tubing for
my brake line. Sometime when I'm in London I plan to check out push-loc
metal fittings cuz it's a pain replacing all the metal ferrels (?sp) every
time I switch gear.
Drew



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[Ken]

Hi Drew

Yes let us know what you find out about the push locs. I understand they
are replacing most of the older fittings for industrial uses and it
looks like that includes air brakes. I was also thinking about putting
a small ball valve just above the floor for changing lines. A ball valve
with a push loc connection would make a cheap quick disconnect. I think
Angus recommended a small air bleeder up by the forward cylinders as
well. And eventually I will look for a pressure relief valve.

If it helps the PN that I've jotted down for springs are
MSC 07663891
Davco XHP 67 ( confirmed number as I have those in my hand)
Tipco EH150-350
Superior 344-24x4 (the x is either a 0 or a 1 for a 3.5" long spring,
not sure which it is)

Ken


Drew Dalgleish wrote:

Regarding the hydraulic tubing:
After talking with several fellows I have decided to scrap the MAM
supplied stuff and go with DOT certified plastic air brake tubing and
metal fittings. I haven't decided about the brake line yet.

Ken

Hi Ken Thanks for the spring source. I started taking my gear apart a
couple days ago. I thought I could just take out the suspension tube but
everything has to come apart to get at them :( much wiser to make the
changes during construction. I'm having good luck with air brake tubing for
my brake line. Sometime when I'm in London I plan to check out push-loc
metal fittings cuz it's a pain replacing all the metal ferrels (?sp) every
time I switch gear.
Drew

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[Drew Dalgleish]

OK might be a while the big city doesn't have the same draw it used to.
Having a ball valve would save a bit of mess and you could leave the ends
open when on wheels. I just take a short piece of hose and join the two
lines together. I'd suggest removing the handles or locking them open. I
don't think that having a bit of air in the hydraulics hurts anything and
might even help by acting like an accumilator maintaining pressure even if
there's a small leak.

At 08:50 AM 3/23/2007 -0500, you wrote:

Hi Drew

Yes let us know what you find out about the push locs. I understand they
are replacing most of the older fittings for industrial uses and it
looks like that includes air brakes. I was also thinking about putting
a small ball valve just above the floor for changing lines. A ball valve
with a push loc connection would make a cheap quick disconnect. I think
Angus recommended a small air bleeder up by the forward cylinders as
well. And eventually I will look for a pressure relief valve.

If it helps the PN that I've jotted down for springs are
MSC 07663891
Davco XHP 67 ( confirmed number as I have those in my hand)
Tipco EH150-350
Superior 344-24x4 (the x is either a 0 or a 1 for a 3.5" long spring,
not sure which it is)

Ken


Drew Dalgleish wrote:

Regarding the hydraulic tubing:
After talking with several fellows I have decided to scrap the MAM
supplied stuff and go with DOT certified plastic air brake tubing and
metal fittings. I haven't decided about the brake line yet.

Ken

Hi Ken Thanks for the spring source. I started taking my gear apart a
couple days ago. I thought I could just take out the suspension tube but
everything has to come apart to get at them :( much wiser to make the
changes during construction. I'm having good luck with air brake tubing for
my brake line. Sometime when I'm in London I plan to check out push-loc
metal fittings cuz it's a pain replacing all the metal ferrels (?sp) every
time I switch gear.
Drew

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Drew



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[Drew Dalgleish]

Forgot to add the dot brake line is available in both red and black using 2
colours makes plumbing a lot easier.
Drew



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[Rebflyer]

Hi all,
I converted all of my plastic connections with brass push to connect
fittings. Newloc is the company that I used with great results. No leaks, easy to
remove, and the more pressure you use the tighter they get. The burst
pressure is only limited by your tubing. They have a pretty good assortment of
fittings from unions, tee's, tee's with one side pipe connection etc. No I don't
own part of this company. (grin)
Curt
N97MR



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[Ken]

thanks Curt
So no problems going into the brake cylinders or caliper where there is
a bit of movement then?
Ken

Rebflyer@aol.com wrote:

Hi all,
I converted all of my plastic connections with brass push to connect
fittings. Newloc is the company that I used with great results. No leaks, easy to
remove, and the more pressure you use the tighter they get. The burst
pressure is only limited by your tubing. They have a pretty good assortment of
fittings from unions, tee's, tee's with one side pipe connection etc. No I don't
own part of this company. (grin)
Curt
N97MR

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[british thunder]

if these are the Newloc that I'm thinking they make a brass and a plastic
outer casting?
the machinist at my work took one home to put on his ice maker for his
fridge.
2 months later they came back from shopping to find the basement full or
water!!
there was a small crack in the plastic outer case. the line came off, city
water has a pressure of only 50-60 psi.
he showed me the box of the fittings 5 of 10 had the cracks, could be age
they were 5 years old?
as well they do not have the inner sleeve to stop collapse of the tube.
I used and would stick with the DOT approved air line fittings for air
brakes, cheep come with inner sleeve and are readily available and any
configuration.
I used them on the 1/8 brake lines too.
I only have one season but no leaks or sweats.
Just my 2cents
Cec
R014

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 3:05 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphib bulkhead G

thanks Curt
So no problems going into the brake cylinders or caliper where there is
a bit of movement then?
Ken

Rebflyer@aol.com wrote:

Hi all,
I converted all of my plastic connections with brass push to connect
fittings. Newloc is the company that I used with great results. No

leaks, easy to

remove, and the more pressure you use the tighter they get. The burst
pressure is only limited by your tubing. They have a pretty good

assortment of

fittings from unions, tee's, tee's with one side pipe connection etc. No

I don't

own part of this company. (grin)
Curt
N97MR

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[Rebflyer]

Well,
The ones I used are all brass casing, only the ring that releases the grip
is plastic. . NO insert because it grips on the outside. Can't collapse the
tube. I did use them only on the gear hydraulics. I did use the standard
tube,ferrule and insert on my brakes.
No signs of any leaks through last summer or over the winter, and with me,
when it comes to plumbing, I don't look to see if it leaks I look to see
where<grin>
Curt
N97MR



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