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[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
Bob Patterson

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by Bob Patterson » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:56 am

Hi Mike !

Feels great, doesn't it !! :-)

You can run the flaps faster in notch 1 - but why ???
I always go to negative (2 notches) on the Rebel, as soon as I'm
done climbing ! It makes it more stable, and a bit faster.
You may find a small roll change with flaps in different
positions - it's not unusual .... You should be landing WITH
flaps in ALL wind conditions !! At least 2 notches....
People often make the mistake of trying to fly Murphy's
like Cessnas - they are different aircraft !

It's always better to lower a flap a bit, rather than raise the
opposite one - adding to lift ! How heavy IS the wing ?? It is
standard practice to keep about 1/4 tank more fuel on the
lighter wing .... to help with balance. Maybe that's all you
need. A small Lexan ramp on the bottom of one wing tip
will also give good results.

Rudder trim tab is best in the center - lower is partly
blanketed by the fuse & stab. A longer tab is better than a
short, wide tab.

FWIW, I have always added internal aileron trim to my
Rebels - this is simply a bungee cord from the right side
stick base hole in the cross tube, running up to the left
stick, wrapped 2 or 3 turns & hooked to itself. To trim,
just slide the bungee coils up or down the stick to add
tension to pull the stick to the right. This is the same setup
used on gliders for years, and does a great job of fine-tuning
the trim for long flights. We can often fly for literally
HOURS without touching the stick. Of course, you
will have to be much more attentive to the elevators
with the Elite ... especially on bouncy days.

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Tuesday 13 March 2007 00:42, Mike Betti wrote:
Hi all,
Finally getting some time in my Elite this weekend. The wind finally quit
gusting around here for the time being anyway. Have about 3 hours logged and
got the landing down pretty well now. I can see the need for some weight in
the back seat to get that tail down, but able to make nice no throttle
landings as is.
Can I run the flaps in notch 1 beyond flap speed since they are actually in
the nuetral position at that point? Flaps at 0 is reflex.
Also looking at drooping a flap to get rid of a heavy wing. Does it help to
raise the opposite or should I just droop the heavy one?
Also added a trim tab to elevator to help with lack of offset. I been told
to mount it at 1/2 way point on rudder. I notice many certified planes have
this toward the bottom. Could it be more effective say inline with the stab?
Thanks,
Mike Betti



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Walter Klatt

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by Walter Klatt » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:56 am

I noticed that with my Rebel, I had a slight heavy wing when the flaperons
were neutral, but when I went into reflex, it was perfectly balanced, and
flies hands off no problem. Not sure how the Elite flaps work, but perhaps
if you could raise them both into reflex for cruise, maybe that might fix it
for you as well.

BTW, great to meet the gang over at Brampton on Sunday. Glad to see Drew and
Ken's planes there as well, and definitely some fine workmanship on those.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 12:12 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time


Hi Mike !

Feels great, doesn't it !! :-)

You can run the flaps faster in notch 1 - but why ???
I always go to negative (2 notches) on the Rebel, as soon as I'm
done climbing ! It makes it more stable, and a bit faster.
You may find a small roll change with flaps in different
positions - it's not unusual .... You should be landing WITH
flaps in ALL wind conditions !! At least 2 notches....
People often make the mistake of trying to fly Murphy's
like Cessnas - they are different aircraft !

It's always better to lower a flap a bit, rather than raise the
opposite one - adding to lift ! How heavy IS the wing ?? It is
standard practice to keep about 1/4 tank more fuel on the
lighter wing .... to help with balance. Maybe that's all you
need. A small Lexan ramp on the bottom of one wing tip
will also give good results.

Rudder trim tab is best in the center - lower is partly
blanketed by the fuse & stab. A longer tab is better than a
short, wide tab.

FWIW, I have always added internal aileron trim to my
Rebels - this is simply a bungee cord from the right side
stick base hole in the cross tube, running up to the left
stick, wrapped 2 or 3 turns & hooked to itself. To trim,
just slide the bungee coils up or down the stick to add
tension to pull the stick to the right. This is the same setup
used on gliders for years, and does a great job of fine-tuning
the trim for long flights. We can often fly for literally
HOURS without touching the stick. Of course, you
will have to be much more attentive to the elevators
with the Elite ... especially on bouncy days.

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Tuesday 13 March 2007 00:42, Mike Betti wrote:
Hi all,
Finally getting some time in my Elite this weekend. The wind finally quit
gusting around here for the time being anyway. Have about 3 hours logged and

got the landing down pretty well now. I can see the need for some weight in
the back seat to get that tail down, but able to make nice no throttle
landings as is.
Can I run the flaps in notch 1 beyond flap speed since they are actually
in
the nuetral position at that point? Flaps at 0 is reflex.
Also looking at drooping a flap to get rid of a heavy wing. Does it help
to
raise the opposite or should I just droop the heavy one?
Also added a trim tab to elevator to help with lack of offset. I been told
to mount it at 1/2 way point on rudder. I notice many certified planes have
this toward the bottom. Could it be more effective say inline with the stab?
Thanks,
Mike Betti



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Mike Betti

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by Mike Betti » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:56 am

Good information Bob, I like the lexan idea if I understand it correctly.
Could you give me a little more detail on the lexan at the wing tip? How big
of a piece? Where? Mounted how? I have the droop tips.
Thanks,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Hi Mike !

Feels great, doesn't it !! :-)

You can run the flaps faster in notch 1 - but why ???
I always go to negative (2 notches) on the Rebel, as soon as I'm
done climbing ! It makes it more stable, and a bit faster.
You may find a small roll change with flaps in different
positions - it's not unusual .... You should be landing WITH
flaps in ALL wind conditions !! At least 2 notches....
People often make the mistake of trying to fly Murphy's
like Cessnas - they are different aircraft !

It's always better to lower a flap a bit, rather than raise the
opposite one - adding to lift ! How heavy IS the wing ?? It is
standard practice to keep about 1/4 tank more fuel on the
lighter wing .... to help with balance. Maybe that's all you
need. A small Lexan ramp on the bottom of one wing tip
will also give good results.

Rudder trim tab is best in the center - lower is partly
blanketed by the fuse & stab. A longer tab is better than a
short, wide tab.

FWIW, I have always added internal aileron trim to my
Rebels - this is simply a bungee cord from the right side
stick base hole in the cross tube, running up to the left
stick, wrapped 2 or 3 turns & hooked to itself. To trim,
just slide the bungee coils up or down the stick to add
tension to pull the stick to the right. This is the same setup
used on gliders for years, and does a great job of fine-tuning
the trim for long flights. We can often fly for literally
HOURS without touching the stick. Of course, you
will have to be much more attentive to the elevators
with the Elite ... especially on bouncy days.

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Tuesday 13 March 2007 00:42, Mike Betti wrote:
Hi all,
Finally getting some time in my Elite this weekend. The wind finally quit
gusting around here for the time being anyway. Have about 3 hours logged
and
got the landing down pretty well now. I can see the need for some weight
in
the back seat to get that tail down, but able to make nice no throttle
landings as is.
Can I run the flaps in notch 1 beyond flap speed since they are actually
in
the nuetral position at that point? Flaps at 0 is reflex.
Also looking at drooping a flap to get rid of a heavy wing. Does it help
to
raise the opposite or should I just droop the heavy one?
Also added a trim tab to elevator to help with lack of offset. I been
told
to mount it at 1/2 way point on rudder. I notice many certified planes
have
this toward the bottom. Could it be more effective say inline with the
stab?
Thanks,
Mike Betti



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-----------------------------------------------------------------





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Bob Patterson

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by Bob Patterson » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:56 am

Hi Mike !

Aaaaaaahh ! You have the droop tips !! -- I was wondering how
you could have enough variation between tips to have a roll problem
with the standard Elite tips ... it would be VERY unusual, because
they are so short .... Now we have an explanation !!
It only takes less than 1/4" variation in tip angle to give
noticeable roll input - and the droop tips are a lot longer
than the standard tips !

If you cut a strip of Lexan, about 2" wide, and maybe 8"
long, and bend one end down a bit over 90 degrees, about 1"
from the end, then bend that section about 1/2" from the end
so that it is parallel with the longer section, you have the
shape. It will look like a slightly flattened "Z", except the top
leg will be much longer. A couple of rivets at the front and
back will hold it to the tip - it should be as far out as possible,
just inside the drooped part.

What that gives you is a long ramp that slopes down 1/2"
or so, with a leg at the back to support it. The measurements
are very vague, as this will be a matter of 'cut & fit' and test -
you might want to just tape it in place initially. Use strong,
wide tape !! :-)

It may well be that a 3" wide strip with just 1/4" rise
will be more than enough .... or a strip 1" wide even ...

I would only try that IF an extra 1/4 tank of fuel on the
light side doesn't help -- OR if going to full reflex flap doesn't
help. If you were wanting to run without the reflex because
of roll input, then I would definitely adjust one flap down to
level things. It should fly well with the flaps all the way up -
this should give you about 128 - 132 mph cruise with 180 hp.

Which way does it roll ??

Just had another thought - if the drooped part is solid glass,
you could maybe just run a grinding wheel along the bottom of
the drooped part at the back, on the wing that wants to go UP.
That would reduce the angle at the rear of that tip by 1/8" - 1/4",
and might be enough to stop the roll .... Might as well use that
drooped piece as a ramp - it certainly does nothing for the
aerodynamics ! (If it went up, like a winglet, it would be
beneficial - going down just reduces roll stability ....)
(Before anyone yells --- this is just MHO ... ;-) )
(Anybody ever seen a high-performance glider, or a jet,
with droop tips ??!!! :-) ) (How about winglets ??) :-)

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Wednesday 14 March 2007 00:02, Mike Betti wrote:
Good information Bob, I like the lexan idea if I understand it correctly.
Could you give me a little more detail on the lexan at the wing tip? How big
of a piece? Where? Mounted how? I have the droop tips.
Thanks,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Hi Mike !

Feels great, doesn't it !! :-)

You can run the flaps faster in notch 1 - but why ???
I always go to negative (2 notches) on the Rebel, as soon as I'm
done climbing ! It makes it more stable, and a bit faster.
You may find a small roll change with flaps in different
positions - it's not unusual .... You should be landing WITH
flaps in ALL wind conditions !! At least 2 notches....
People often make the mistake of trying to fly Murphy's
like Cessnas - they are different aircraft !

It's always better to lower a flap a bit, rather than raise the
opposite one - adding to lift ! How heavy IS the wing ?? It is
standard practice to keep about 1/4 tank more fuel on the
lighter wing .... to help with balance. Maybe that's all you
need. A small Lexan ramp on the bottom of one wing tip
will also give good results.

Rudder trim tab is best in the center - lower is partly
blanketed by the fuse & stab. A longer tab is better than a
short, wide tab.

FWIW, I have always added internal aileron trim to my
Rebels - this is simply a bungee cord from the right side
stick base hole in the cross tube, running up to the left
stick, wrapped 2 or 3 turns & hooked to itself. To trim,
just slide the bungee coils up or down the stick to add
tension to pull the stick to the right. This is the same setup
used on gliders for years, and does a great job of fine-tuning
the trim for long flights. We can often fly for literally
HOURS without touching the stick. Of course, you
will have to be much more attentive to the elevators
with the Elite ... especially on bouncy days.

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Tuesday 13 March 2007 00:42, Mike Betti wrote:
Hi all,
Finally getting some time in my Elite this weekend. The wind finally quit
gusting around here for the time being anyway. Have about 3 hours logged
and
got the landing down pretty well now. I can see the need for some weight
in
the back seat to get that tail down, but able to make nice no throttle
landings as is.
Can I run the flaps in notch 1 beyond flap speed since they are actually
in
the nuetral position at that point? Flaps at 0 is reflex.
Also looking at drooping a flap to get rid of a heavy wing. Does it help
to
raise the opposite or should I just droop the heavy one?
Also added a trim tab to elevator to help with lack of offset. I been
told
to mount it at 1/2 way point on rudder. I notice many certified planes
have
this toward the bottom. Could it be more effective say inline with the
stab?
Thanks,
Mike Betti


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-----------------------------------------------------------------

eric.r

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by eric.r » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:56 am

If you tape a "soda straw" at the trailing edge (outboard) with packing tape,
you ca get an idea of how a small trim tab will affect the heavy wing. It is
quick and easy, and will tell you if a large tab may be needed. The extra fuel
in one tank though sounds like the logical solution ... All my airplanes fly one
wing heavy until I transfer my Big ^&* to the other seat! Then of course
they fly with the other wing heavy... I'll be putting the "left-right-both" fuel
valve in my Rebel.
On 3/13/2007 8:36 PM, beep@sympatico.ca wrote to rebel-builders:

->
-> Hi Mike !
->
-> Aaaaaaahh ! You have the droop tips !! -- I was wondering how
-> you could have enough variation between tips to have a roll problem
-> with the standard Elite tips ... it would be VERY unusual, because
-> they are so short .... Now we have an explanation !!
-> It only takes less than 1/4" variation in tip angle to give
-> noticeable roll input - and the droop tips are a lot longer
-> than the standard tips !
->
-> If you cut a strip of Lexan, about 2" wide, and maybe 8"
-> long, and bend one end down a bit over 90 degrees, about 1"
-> from the end, then bend that section about 1/2" from the end
-> so that it is parallel with the longer section, you have the
-> shape. It will look like a slightly flattened "Z", except the top
-> leg will be much longer. A couple of rivets at the front and
-> back will hold it to the tip - it should be as far out as possible,
-> just inside the drooped part.
->
-> What that gives you is a long ramp that slopes down 1/2"
-> or so, with a leg at the back to support it. The measurements
-> are very vague, as this will be a matter of 'cut & fit' and test -
-> you might want to just tape it in place initially. Use strong,
-> wide tape !! :-)
->
-> It may well be that a 3" wide strip with just 1/4" rise
-> will be more than enough .... or a strip 1" wide even ...
->
-> I would only try that IF an extra 1/4 tank of fuel on the
-> light side doesn't help -- OR if going to full reflex flap doesn't
-> help. If you were wanting to run without the reflex because
-> of roll input, then I would definitely adjust one flap down to
-> level things. It should fly well with the flaps all the way up -
-> this should give you about 128 - 132 mph cruise with 180 hp.
->
-> Which way does it roll ??
->
-> Just had another thought - if the drooped part is solid glass,
-> you could maybe just run a grinding wheel along the bottom of
-> the drooped part at the back, on the wing that wants to go UP.
-> That would reduce the angle at the rear of that tip by 1/8" - 1/4",
-> and might be enough to stop the roll .... Might as well use that
-> drooped piece as a ramp - it certainly does nothing for the
-> aerodynamics ! (If it went up, like a winglet, it would be
-> beneficial - going down just reduces roll stability ....)
-> (Before anyone yells --- this is just MHO ... ;-) )
-> (Anybody ever seen a high-performance glider, or a jet,
-> with droop tips ??!!! :-) ) (How about winglets ??) :-)
->
-> --
-> ......bobp
-> http://www.prosumers.ca
-> http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
-> http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
->
-> -------------------------------orig.-------------------------
-> On Wednesday 14 March 2007 00:02, Mike Betti wrote:
-> > Good information Bob, I like the lexan idea if I understand it correctly.
-> > Could you give me a little more detail on the lexan at the wing tip? How
big
-> > of a piece? Where? Mounted how? I have the droop tips.
-> > Thanks,
-> > Mike
-> > ----- Original Message -----
-> > From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
-> > To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> > Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 2:11 PM
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time
-> >
-> >
-> > >
-> > > Hi Mike !
-> > >
-> > > Feels great, doesn't it !! :-)
-> > >
-> > > You can run the flaps faster in notch 1 - but why ???
-> > > I always go to negative (2 notches) on the Rebel, as soon as I'm
-> > > done climbing ! It makes it more stable, and a bit faster.
-> > > You may find a small roll change with flaps in different
-> > > positions - it's not unusual .... You should be landing WITH
-> > > flaps in ALL wind conditions !! At least 2 notches....
-> > > People often make the mistake of trying to fly Murphy's
-> > > like Cessnas - they are different aircraft !
-> > >
-> > > It's always better to lower a flap a bit, rather than raise the
-> > > opposite one - adding to lift ! How heavy IS the wing ?? It is
-> > > standard practice to keep about 1/4 tank more fuel on the
-> > > lighter wing .... to help with balance. Maybe that's all you
-> > > need. A small Lexan ramp on the bottom of one wing tip
-> > > will also give good results.
-> > >
-> > > Rudder trim tab is best in the center - lower is partly
-> > > blanketed by the fuse & stab. A longer tab is better than a
-> > > short, wide tab.
-> > >
-> > > FWIW, I have always added internal aileron trim to my
-> > > Rebels - this is simply a bungee cord from the right side
-> > > stick base hole in the cross tube, running up to the left
-> > > stick, wrapped 2 or 3 turns & hooked to itself. To trim,
-> > > just slide the bungee coils up or down the stick to add
-> > > tension to pull the stick to the right. This is the same setup
-> > > used on gliders for years, and does a great job of fine-tuning
-> > > the trim for long flights. We can often fly for literally
-> > > HOURS without touching the stick. Of course, you
-> > > will have to be much more attentive to the elevators
-> > > with the Elite ... especially on bouncy days.
-> > >
-> > > --
-> > > ......bobp
-> > > http://www.prosumers.ca
-> > > http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
-> > > http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
-> > >
-> > > -------------------------------orig.-------------------------
-> > > On Tuesday 13 March 2007 00:42, Mike Betti wrote:
-> > >> Hi all,
-> > >> Finally getting some time in my Elite this weekend. The wind finally
quit
-> > > gusting around here for the time being anyway. Have about 3 hours
logged
-> > > and
-> > > got the landing down pretty well now. I can see the need for some
weight
-> > > in
-> > > the back seat to get that tail down, but able to make nice no throttle
-> > > landings as is.
-> > >> Can I run the flaps in notch 1 beyond flap speed since they are
actually
-> > >> in
-> > > the nuetral position at that point? Flaps at 0 is reflex.
-> > >> Also looking at drooping a flap to get rid of a heavy wing. Does it
help
-> > >> to
-> > > raise the opposite or should I just droop the heavy one?
-> > >> Also added a trim tab to elevator to help with lack of offset. I been
-> > >> told
-> > > to mount it at 1/2 way point on rudder. I notice many certified planes
-> > > have
-> > > this toward the bottom. Could it be more effective say inline with the
-> > > stab?
-> > >> Thanks,
-> > >> Mike Betti
-> > >
->





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Mike Betti

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by Mike Betti » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:56 am

Thanks Bob,
I will give this a try and see what happens. Report to follow.......
Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Hi Mike !

Aaaaaaahh ! You have the droop tips !! -- I was wondering how
you could have enough variation between tips to have a roll problem
with the standard Elite tips ... it would be VERY unusual, because
they are so short .... Now we have an explanation !!
It only takes less than 1/4" variation in tip angle to give
noticeable roll input - and the droop tips are a lot longer
than the standard tips !

If you cut a strip of Lexan, about 2" wide, and maybe 8"
long, and bend one end down a bit over 90 degrees, about 1"
from the end, then bend that section about 1/2" from the end
so that it is parallel with the longer section, you have the
shape. It will look like a slightly flattened "Z", except the top
leg will be much longer. A couple of rivets at the front and
back will hold it to the tip - it should be as far out as possible,
just inside the drooped part.

What that gives you is a long ramp that slopes down 1/2"
or so, with a leg at the back to support it. The measurements
are very vague, as this will be a matter of 'cut & fit' and test -
you might want to just tape it in place initially. Use strong,
wide tape !! :-)

It may well be that a 3" wide strip with just 1/4" rise
will be more than enough .... or a strip 1" wide even ...

I would only try that IF an extra 1/4 tank of fuel on the
light side doesn't help -- OR if going to full reflex flap doesn't
help. If you were wanting to run without the reflex because
of roll input, then I would definitely adjust one flap down to
level things. It should fly well with the flaps all the way up -
this should give you about 128 - 132 mph cruise with 180 hp.

Which way does it roll ??

Just had another thought - if the drooped part is solid glass,
you could maybe just run a grinding wheel along the bottom of
the drooped part at the back, on the wing that wants to go UP.
That would reduce the angle at the rear of that tip by 1/8" - 1/4",
and might be enough to stop the roll .... Might as well use that
drooped piece as a ramp - it certainly does nothing for the
aerodynamics ! (If it went up, like a winglet, it would be
beneficial - going down just reduces roll stability ....)
(Before anyone yells --- this is just MHO ... ;-) )
(Anybody ever seen a high-performance glider, or a jet,
with droop tips ??!!! :-) ) (How about winglets ??) :-)

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Wednesday 14 March 2007 00:02, Mike Betti wrote:
Good information Bob, I like the lexan idea if I understand it correctly.
Could you give me a little more detail on the lexan at the wing tip? How
big
of a piece? Where? Mounted how? I have the droop tips.
Thanks,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Hi Mike !

Feels great, doesn't it !! :-)

You can run the flaps faster in notch 1 - but why ???
I always go to negative (2 notches) on the Rebel, as soon as I'm
done climbing ! It makes it more stable, and a bit faster.
You may find a small roll change with flaps in different
positions - it's not unusual .... You should be landing WITH
flaps in ALL wind conditions !! At least 2 notches....
People often make the mistake of trying to fly Murphy's
like Cessnas - they are different aircraft !

It's always better to lower a flap a bit, rather than raise the
opposite one - adding to lift ! How heavy IS the wing ?? It is
standard practice to keep about 1/4 tank more fuel on the
lighter wing .... to help with balance. Maybe that's all you
need. A small Lexan ramp on the bottom of one wing tip
will also give good results.

Rudder trim tab is best in the center - lower is partly
blanketed by the fuse & stab. A longer tab is better than a
short, wide tab.

FWIW, I have always added internal aileron trim to my
Rebels - this is simply a bungee cord from the right side
stick base hole in the cross tube, running up to the left
stick, wrapped 2 or 3 turns & hooked to itself. To trim,
just slide the bungee coils up or down the stick to add
tension to pull the stick to the right. This is the same setup
used on gliders for years, and does a great job of fine-tuning
the trim for long flights. We can often fly for literally
HOURS without touching the stick. Of course, you
will have to be much more attentive to the elevators
with the Elite ... especially on bouncy days.

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Tuesday 13 March 2007 00:42, Mike Betti wrote: gusting around here for the time being anyway. Have about 3 hours
logged
and
got the landing down pretty well now. I can see the need for some
weight
in
the back seat to get that tail down, but able to make nice no throttle
landings as is. the nuetral position at that point? Flaps at 0 is reflex. raise the opposite or should I just droop the heavy one? to mount it at 1/2 way point on rudder. I notice many certified planes
have
this toward the bottom. Could it be more effective say inline with the
stab?


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Mike Betti

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by Mike Betti » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:56 am

Bob,
Are you mounting this lexan piece to the trailing edge of the tip? It isn't
solid enough for your other suggestion.
Thanks,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Hi Mike !

Aaaaaaahh ! You have the droop tips !! -- I was wondering how
you could have enough variation between tips to have a roll problem
with the standard Elite tips ... it would be VERY unusual, because
they are so short .... Now we have an explanation !!
It only takes less than 1/4" variation in tip angle to give
noticeable roll input - and the droop tips are a lot longer
than the standard tips !

If you cut a strip of Lexan, about 2" wide, and maybe 8"
long, and bend one end down a bit over 90 degrees, about 1"
from the end, then bend that section about 1/2" from the end
so that it is parallel with the longer section, you have the
shape. It will look like a slightly flattened "Z", except the top
leg will be much longer. A couple of rivets at the front and
back will hold it to the tip - it should be as far out as possible,
just inside the drooped part.

What that gives you is a long ramp that slopes down 1/2"
or so, with a leg at the back to support it. The measurements
are very vague, as this will be a matter of 'cut & fit' and test -
you might want to just tape it in place initially. Use strong,
wide tape !! :-)

It may well be that a 3" wide strip with just 1/4" rise
will be more than enough .... or a strip 1" wide even ...

I would only try that IF an extra 1/4 tank of fuel on the
light side doesn't help -- OR if going to full reflex flap doesn't
help. If you were wanting to run without the reflex because
of roll input, then I would definitely adjust one flap down to
level things. It should fly well with the flaps all the way up -
this should give you about 128 - 132 mph cruise with 180 hp.

Which way does it roll ??

Just had another thought - if the drooped part is solid glass,
you could maybe just run a grinding wheel along the bottom of
the drooped part at the back, on the wing that wants to go UP.
That would reduce the angle at the rear of that tip by 1/8" - 1/4",
and might be enough to stop the roll .... Might as well use that
drooped piece as a ramp - it certainly does nothing for the
aerodynamics ! (If it went up, like a winglet, it would be
beneficial - going down just reduces roll stability ....)
(Before anyone yells --- this is just MHO ... ;-) )
(Anybody ever seen a high-performance glider, or a jet,
with droop tips ??!!! :-) ) (How about winglets ??) :-)

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Wednesday 14 March 2007 00:02, Mike Betti wrote:
Good information Bob, I like the lexan idea if I understand it correctly.
Could you give me a little more detail on the lexan at the wing tip? How
big
of a piece? Where? Mounted how? I have the droop tips.
Thanks,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Hi Mike !

Feels great, doesn't it !! :-)

You can run the flaps faster in notch 1 - but why ???
I always go to negative (2 notches) on the Rebel, as soon as I'm
done climbing ! It makes it more stable, and a bit faster.
You may find a small roll change with flaps in different
positions - it's not unusual .... You should be landing WITH
flaps in ALL wind conditions !! At least 2 notches....
People often make the mistake of trying to fly Murphy's
like Cessnas - they are different aircraft !

It's always better to lower a flap a bit, rather than raise the
opposite one - adding to lift ! How heavy IS the wing ?? It is
standard practice to keep about 1/4 tank more fuel on the
lighter wing .... to help with balance. Maybe that's all you
need. A small Lexan ramp on the bottom of one wing tip
will also give good results.

Rudder trim tab is best in the center - lower is partly
blanketed by the fuse & stab. A longer tab is better than a
short, wide tab.

FWIW, I have always added internal aileron trim to my
Rebels - this is simply a bungee cord from the right side
stick base hole in the cross tube, running up to the left
stick, wrapped 2 or 3 turns & hooked to itself. To trim,
just slide the bungee coils up or down the stick to add
tension to pull the stick to the right. This is the same setup
used on gliders for years, and does a great job of fine-tuning
the trim for long flights. We can often fly for literally
HOURS without touching the stick. Of course, you
will have to be much more attentive to the elevators
with the Elite ... especially on bouncy days.

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Tuesday 13 March 2007 00:42, Mike Betti wrote: gusting around here for the time being anyway. Have about 3 hours
logged
and
got the landing down pretty well now. I can see the need for some
weight
in
the back seat to get that tail down, but able to make nice no throttle
landings as is. the nuetral position at that point? Flaps at 0 is reflex. raise the opposite or should I just droop the heavy one? to mount it at 1/2 way point on rudder. I notice many certified planes
have
this toward the bottom. Could it be more effective say inline with the
stab?


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-----------------------------------------------------------------




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Bob Patterson

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by Bob Patterson » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:56 am

Hi Mike !

No - definitely do not mount to the trailing edge -- you'll take
somebody's eye out !!

Are you saying that 1/8" Lexan isn't strong enough ??? Or that
the tip isn't strong enough ??? Both should be ok !

The ramp should fasten to the bottom of the tip, near the
trailing edge, inboard of the droop part.
<-------------- forward
(________________________________________. bottom of tip
--------\ |----- |
\ |
\ | <---- ramp
\ |

Of course, angle of ramp would be MUCH more
shallow - back part is only 1/4" high - 1/2" high, and
the sloped part is maybe 6 or 8" long ....

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 15 March 2007 01:25, Mike Betti wrote:
Bob,
Are you mounting this lexan piece to the trailing edge of the tip? It isn't
solid enough for your other suggestion.
Thanks,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Hi Mike !

Aaaaaaahh ! You have the droop tips !! -- I was wondering how
you could have enough variation between tips to have a roll problem
with the standard Elite tips ... it would be VERY unusual, because
they are so short .... Now we have an explanation !!
It only takes less than 1/4" variation in tip angle to give
noticeable roll input - and the droop tips are a lot longer
than the standard tips !

If you cut a strip of Lexan, about 2" wide, and maybe 8"
long, and bend one end down a bit over 90 degrees, about 1"
from the end, then bend that section about 1/2" from the end
so that it is parallel with the longer section, you have the
shape. It will look like a slightly flattened "Z", except the top
leg will be much longer. A couple of rivets at the front and
back will hold it to the tip - it should be as far out as possible,
just inside the drooped part.

What that gives you is a long ramp that slopes down 1/2"
or so, with a leg at the back to support it. The measurements
are very vague, as this will be a matter of 'cut & fit' and test -
you might want to just tape it in place initially. Use strong,
wide tape !! :-)

It may well be that a 3" wide strip with just 1/4" rise
will be more than enough .... or a strip 1" wide even ...

I would only try that IF an extra 1/4 tank of fuel on the
light side doesn't help -- OR if going to full reflex flap doesn't
help. If you were wanting to run without the reflex because
of roll input, then I would definitely adjust one flap down to
level things. It should fly well with the flaps all the way up -
this should give you about 128 - 132 mph cruise with 180 hp.

Which way does it roll ??

Just had another thought - if the drooped part is solid glass,
you could maybe just run a grinding wheel along the bottom of
the drooped part at the back, on the wing that wants to go UP.
That would reduce the angle at the rear of that tip by 1/8" - 1/4",
and might be enough to stop the roll .... Might as well use that
drooped piece as a ramp - it certainly does nothing for the
aerodynamics ! (If it went up, like a winglet, it would be
beneficial - going down just reduces roll stability ....)
(Before anyone yells --- this is just MHO ... ;-) )
(Anybody ever seen a high-performance glider, or a jet,
with droop tips ??!!! :-) ) (How about winglets ??) :-)

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Wednesday 14 March 2007 00:02, Mike Betti wrote:
Good information Bob, I like the lexan idea if I understand it correctly.
Could you give me a little more detail on the lexan at the wing tip? How
big
of a piece? Where? Mounted how? I have the droop tips.
Thanks,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time



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Dale Fultz

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by Dale Fultz » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:56 am

What an artist Bob...maybe you can get a job with MAM making more drawing to
understand the manual better in some areas...




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Mike Betti

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by Mike Betti » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:56 am

Got ya, I was picturing this thing right down to the trailing edge but your
drawing shows it held forward some.
Thanks,
Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 11:30 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Hi Mike !

No - definitely do not mount to the trailing edge -- you'll take
somebody's eye out !!

Are you saying that 1/8" Lexan isn't strong enough ??? Or that
the tip isn't strong enough ??? Both should be ok !

The ramp should fasten to the bottom of the tip, near the
trailing edge, inboard of the droop part.
<-------------- forward
(________________________________________. bottom of tip
--------\ |----- |
\ |
\ | <----
ramp
\ |

Of course, angle of ramp would be MUCH more
shallow - back part is only 1/4" high - 1/2" high, and
the sloped part is maybe 6 or 8" long ....

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 15 March 2007 01:25, Mike Betti wrote:
Bob,
Are you mounting this lexan piece to the trailing edge of the tip? It
isn't
solid enough for your other suggestion.
Thanks,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Hi Mike !

Aaaaaaahh ! You have the droop tips !! -- I was wondering how
you could have enough variation between tips to have a roll problem
with the standard Elite tips ... it would be VERY unusual, because
they are so short .... Now we have an explanation !!
It only takes less than 1/4" variation in tip angle to give
noticeable roll input - and the droop tips are a lot longer
than the standard tips !

If you cut a strip of Lexan, about 2" wide, and maybe 8"
long, and bend one end down a bit over 90 degrees, about 1"
from the end, then bend that section about 1/2" from the end
so that it is parallel with the longer section, you have the
shape. It will look like a slightly flattened "Z", except the top
leg will be much longer. A couple of rivets at the front and
back will hold it to the tip - it should be as far out as possible,
just inside the drooped part.

What that gives you is a long ramp that slopes down 1/2"
or so, with a leg at the back to support it. The measurements
are very vague, as this will be a matter of 'cut & fit' and test -
you might want to just tape it in place initially. Use strong,
wide tape !! :-)

It may well be that a 3" wide strip with just 1/4" rise
will be more than enough .... or a strip 1" wide even ...

I would only try that IF an extra 1/4 tank of fuel on the
light side doesn't help -- OR if going to full reflex flap doesn't
help. If you were wanting to run without the reflex because
of roll input, then I would definitely adjust one flap down to
level things. It should fly well with the flaps all the way up -
this should give you about 128 - 132 mph cruise with 180 hp.

Which way does it roll ??

Just had another thought - if the drooped part is solid glass,
you could maybe just run a grinding wheel along the bottom of
the drooped part at the back, on the wing that wants to go UP.
That would reduce the angle at the rear of that tip by 1/8" - 1/4",
and might be enough to stop the roll .... Might as well use that
drooped piece as a ramp - it certainly does nothing for the
aerodynamics ! (If it went up, like a winglet, it would be
beneficial - going down just reduces roll stability ....)
(Before anyone yells --- this is just MHO ... ;-) )
(Anybody ever seen a high-performance glider, or a jet,
with droop tips ??!!! :-) ) (How about winglets ??) :-)

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Wednesday 14 March 2007 00:02, Mike Betti wrote:


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Dave Ricker

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by Dave Ricker » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:56 am

Mike

We're not that far along in our Elite so I don't have the details handy but is
it possible to adjust the incidence angle of the wing? That and tweaking the
individual ailerons (rigging) are standard Cessna tools to trim out a heavy
wing.

Both would be less obvious to anyone looking at the plane on the ground.

Cheers,

Dave

Mike Betti wrote:
Got ya, I was picturing this thing right down to the trailing edge but your
drawing shows it held forward some.
Thanks,
Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 11:30 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time
Hi Mike !

No - definitely do not mount to the trailing edge -- you'll take
somebody's eye out !!

Are you saying that 1/8" Lexan isn't strong enough ??? Or that
the tip isn't strong enough ??? Both should be ok !

The ramp should fasten to the bottom of the tip, near the
trailing edge, inboard of the droop part.
<-------------- forward
(________________________________________. bottom of tip
--------\ |----- |
\ |
\ | <----
ramp
\ |

Of course, angle of ramp would be MUCH more
shallow - back part is only 1/4" high - 1/2" high, and
the sloped part is maybe 6 or 8" long ....

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 15 March 2007 01:25, Mike Betti wrote:
Bob,
Are you mounting this lexan piece to the trailing edge of the tip? It
isn't
solid enough for your other suggestion.
Thanks,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time



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--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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Dave Ricker

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by Dave Ricker » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:56 am

LOL!!

Dave

Dale Fultz wrote:
What an artist Bob...maybe you can get a job with MAM making more drawing to
understand the manual better in some areas...

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--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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Richard Wampach

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by Richard Wampach » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:56 am

Actually standard rigging on a Cessna; (with a single lift strut) level
the "ball" the turn coordinator to the seat tracks with a good level,
rig ailerons neutral with the wing tips, then the flaps neutral with the
ailerons. Level the fuel and pay load. Test fly, and then if needed
rig the eccentrics at the aft spar an equal but opposite amount at each
side until the plane will fly hands off straight and level at cruise
speed.
Murphy planes do not have eccentrics. This leaves you with rigging
flaps and ailerons only. Do a few test flights; check at cruise and at
stall speeds with flaps up and down. If it stalls straight ahead and
does not drop a wing (possible spin entry) or get squirrelly on
you---you're done!

Dick Wampach SR-108

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Dave Ricker
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 3:32 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Mike

We're not that far along in our Elite so I don't have the details handy
but is
it possible to adjust the incidence angle of the wing? That and
tweaking the
individual ailerons (rigging) are standard Cessna tools to trim out a
heavy
wing.

Both would be less obvious to anyone looking at the plane on the ground.

Cheers,

Dave

Mike Betti wrote:
Got ya, I was picturing this thing right down to the trailing edge but
your
drawing shows it held forward some.
Thanks,
Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 11:30 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time
Hi Mike !

No - definitely do not mount to the trailing edge -- you'll take
somebody's eye out !!

Are you saying that 1/8" Lexan isn't strong enough ??? Or that
the tip isn't strong enough ??? Both should be ok !

The ramp should fasten to the bottom of the tip, near the
trailing edge, inboard of the droop part.
<-------------- forward
(________________________________________. bottom of tip
--------\ |-----
|
\ |
\ |
<----
ramp
\ |

Of course, angle of ramp would be MUCH more
shallow - back part is only 1/4" high - 1/2" high, and
the sloped part is maybe 6 or 8" long ....

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 15 March 2007 01:25, Mike Betti wrote:
Bob,
Are you mounting this lexan piece to the trailing edge of the tip?
It
isn't
solid enough for your other suggestion.
Thanks,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

how
problem
because
top
possible,
-
doesn't
glass,
1/4",
that
tip?
I'm
WITH
the
is
setup
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
hours
some
are
Does it
offset. I
certified
with


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--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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Bob Patterson

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by Bob Patterson » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:56 am

Hi Dave !

As Dick points out, there are no eccentric adjusters on Murphys,
so the only way you could alter incidence would be to VERY CAREFULLY
re-drill the attach bolt fittings to a larger size, off-center --- pretty
risky !

Playing with ailerons is a waste of time - let go of the stick,
and they will centralize, no matter what --- possible making the
stick off center, that's all !! The ONLY option is to droop one
flap a bit to lift the heavy wing ---- or, add a small ramp as I
suggested. It's not very noticeable on the ground, once you've
trimmed it down to the size needed.....

I'm very surprised that just keeping one tank 1/4 higher than
the other doesn't do it --- IF the ball is centered to start with !
I also suspect that Mike can get the desired effect by grinding
a bit off the trailing end of the droop tip, once he has an idea
how much is needed. That would hardly be noticeable on
the ground either !

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 15 March 2007 22:31, Dave Ricker wrote:
Mike

We're not that far along in our Elite so I don't have the details handy but
is
it possible to adjust the incidence angle of the wing? That and tweaking
the
individual ailerons (rigging) are standard Cessna tools to trim out a heavy
wing.

Both would be less obvious to anyone looking at the plane on the ground.

Cheers,

Dave

Mike Betti wrote:
Got ya, I was picturing this thing right down to the trailing edge but
your
drawing shows it held forward some.
Thanks,
Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 11:30 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time
Hi Mike !

No - definitely do not mount to the trailing edge -- you'll take
somebody's eye out !!

Are you saying that 1/8" Lexan isn't strong enough ??? Or that
the tip isn't strong enough ??? Both should be ok !

The ramp should fasten to the bottom of the tip, near the
trailing edge, inboard of the droop part.
<-------------- forward
(________________________________________. bottom of tip
--------\ |----- |
\ |
\ | <----
ramp
\ |

Of course, angle of ramp would be MUCH more
shallow - back part is only 1/4" high - 1/2" high, and
the sloped part is maybe 6 or 8" long ....

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com



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Mike Betti

[rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Post by Mike Betti » Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:00 pm

Most of the bugs seem to be worked out now. Elite is performing well. Did
some calculations, flew various headings and finding the airpeed indicator
reading 110 mph in cruise, but GPS corrected I am at 130. Indicator reading
80, GPS corrected is 86. Looks like I need to do something with my
pitot/static to fine tune?? Maybe pull static from my pitot and use cabin
air?
Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Hi Mike !

Aaaaaaahh ! You have the droop tips !! -- I was wondering how
you could have enough variation between tips to have a roll problem
with the standard Elite tips ... it would be VERY unusual, because
they are so short .... Now we have an explanation !!
It only takes less than 1/4" variation in tip angle to give
noticeable roll input - and the droop tips are a lot longer
than the standard tips !

If you cut a strip of Lexan, about 2" wide, and maybe 8"
long, and bend one end down a bit over 90 degrees, about 1"
from the end, then bend that section about 1/2" from the end
so that it is parallel with the longer section, you have the
shape. It will look like a slightly flattened "Z", except the top
leg will be much longer. A couple of rivets at the front and
back will hold it to the tip - it should be as far out as possible,
just inside the drooped part.

What that gives you is a long ramp that slopes down 1/2"
or so, with a leg at the back to support it. The measurements
are very vague, as this will be a matter of 'cut & fit' and test -
you might want to just tape it in place initially. Use strong,
wide tape !! :-)

It may well be that a 3" wide strip with just 1/4" rise
will be more than enough .... or a strip 1" wide even ...

I would only try that IF an extra 1/4 tank of fuel on the
light side doesn't help -- OR if going to full reflex flap doesn't
help. If you were wanting to run without the reflex because
of roll input, then I would definitely adjust one flap down to
level things. It should fly well with the flaps all the way up -
this should give you about 128 - 132 mph cruise with 180 hp.

Which way does it roll ??

Just had another thought - if the drooped part is solid glass,
you could maybe just run a grinding wheel along the bottom of
the drooped part at the back, on the wing that wants to go UP.
That would reduce the angle at the rear of that tip by 1/8" - 1/4",
and might be enough to stop the roll .... Might as well use that
drooped piece as a ramp - it certainly does nothing for the
aerodynamics ! (If it went up, like a winglet, it would be
beneficial - going down just reduces roll stability ....)
(Before anyone yells --- this is just MHO ... ;-) )
(Anybody ever seen a high-performance glider, or a jet,
with droop tips ??!!! :-) ) (How about winglets ??) :-)

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Wednesday 14 March 2007 00:02, Mike Betti wrote:
Good information Bob, I like the lexan idea if I understand it correctly.
Could you give me a little more detail on the lexan at the wing tip? How
big
of a piece? Where? Mounted how? I have the droop tips.
Thanks,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Elite - Flying time

Hi Mike !

Feels great, doesn't it !! :-)

You can run the flaps faster in notch 1 - but why ???
I always go to negative (2 notches) on the Rebel, as soon as I'm
done climbing ! It makes it more stable, and a bit faster.
You may find a small roll change with flaps in different
positions - it's not unusual .... You should be landing WITH
flaps in ALL wind conditions !! At least 2 notches....
People often make the mistake of trying to fly Murphy's
like Cessnas - they are different aircraft !

It's always better to lower a flap a bit, rather than raise the
opposite one - adding to lift ! How heavy IS the wing ?? It is
standard practice to keep about 1/4 tank more fuel on the
lighter wing .... to help with balance. Maybe that's all you
need. A small Lexan ramp on the bottom of one wing tip
will also give good results.

Rudder trim tab is best in the center - lower is partly
blanketed by the fuse & stab. A longer tab is better than a
short, wide tab.

FWIW, I have always added internal aileron trim to my
Rebels - this is simply a bungee cord from the right side
stick base hole in the cross tube, running up to the left
stick, wrapped 2 or 3 turns & hooked to itself. To trim,
just slide the bungee coils up or down the stick to add
tension to pull the stick to the right. This is the same setup
used on gliders for years, and does a great job of fine-tuning
the trim for long flights. We can often fly for literally
HOURS without touching the stick. Of course, you
will have to be much more attentive to the elevators
with the Elite ... especially on bouncy days.

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Tuesday 13 March 2007 00:42, Mike Betti wrote: gusting around here for the time being anyway. Have about 3 hours
logged
and
got the landing down pretty well now. I can see the need for some
weight
in
the back seat to get that tail down, but able to make nice no throttle
landings as is. the nuetral position at that point? Flaps at 0 is reflex. raise the opposite or should I just droop the heavy one? to mount it at 1/2 way point on rudder. I notice many certified planes
have
this toward the bottom. Could it be more effective say inline with the
stab?


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