[rebel-builders] Trimming Cabin Roof

[Jean Poirier]

Where are you located Eric?

Jean
Rebel747R

Jean Poirier
Pr

[Robert Johnson]

Good point Eric: I recall trimming the roof skin on Rebel 652, but there is
no real advantage I can see, to do so. it will all be covered with the
fairings later. The Rebel I am currently building from serial no 192, the
roof skin is exactly the 44" width as supplied, which does not require any
trimming. I just put it in place last night and found that out. Like so many
have said before, this is a homebuilt aircraft and many things can be left
to your personal discretion. We must be at the same point in construction,
isn't fun?? Bob J Rebel 192/731
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Fogelin" <elist@whidbey.com>
To: "Rebel-Builders" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 12:50 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Trimming Cabin Roof

I have fitted and cleco'd my cabin roof leaving an overhang on both sides.
I
am about to remove, trim and rivet back on. After studying all the photos
of
Elite and Rebel construction that I can find, I see that trimming flush
with
the fuselage is normal. Why not leave a 3/4" overhang between the rear and
front wing attach?

This overhang would be similar to the wing fuel tank skin and allow
material
to screw the wing root fairing into. Good idea/bad idea?

Eric Fogelin
Elite 645

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[Drew Dalgleish]

I didn't have to trim my roof either but I don't see any reason not to
leave an overhang. Just make sure there's enough space to get a nylon sling
around your front wing attach point that's where I lift my plane when
changing from wheels to floats.

At 09:50 PM 1/22/2007 -0800, you wrote:

I have fitted and cleco'd my cabin roof leaving an overhang on both sides. I
am about to remove, trim and rivet back on. After studying all the photos of
Elite and Rebel construction that I can find, I see that trimming flush with
the fuselage is normal. Why not leave a 3/4" overhang between the rear and
front wing attach?

This overhang would be similar to the wing fuel tank skin and allow material
to screw the wing root fairing into. Good idea/bad idea?

Eric Fogelin
Elite 645

P.S. Background: I have been on this list since 1999 when I bought my kit.
The first year I completed the tail and wing control surfaces. Then,
standard story, built house, moved, move work shop 3 times... I jumped back
in last June, finished both wings and moving along on the fuselage. 50%
deposit on factory-built 1800 Amphibs due March. Superior XP-360 arriving
February. Goal is to fly to Oshkosh. (Could be fantasy).

Many thanks to all of you on the list. I have been reading and catching up
on many issues in the archives. Mike Betti, in particular, has already asked
all of the questions that I would have asked, blazing an Elite trail for me.
So, I will try to ask unique ones or just get clarification.

Thanks to all...more questions to follow.




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Drew



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[Eric Fogelin]

My roof skin is 48" wide, so lays on top with 2" overhang on each side. I
will trim to leave a 3/4" overhang. And I will trim flush near the forward
attach fitting to allow a strap for lifting during float exchange.

Thanks for the quick responses.

The latest "fun" part has been fitting, trimming, and fabricating each clip
and channel in the tailcone floor. I will have the floor skin cleco'd today
and work in the inside corner wraps next. This will be a nice section to
have completed.

I'm located on Whidbey Island in Washington State, about a 3 hour drive to
the Murphy factory.

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 4:56 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Trimming Cabin Roof

Good point Eric: I recall trimming the roof skin on Rebel 652, but there is
no real advantage I can see, to do so. it will all be covered with the
fairings later. The Rebel I am currently building from serial no 192, the
roof skin is exactly the 44" width as supplied, which does not require any
trimming. I just put it in place last night and found that out. Like so many

have said before, this is a homebuilt aircraft and many things can be left
to your personal discretion. We must be at the same point in construction,
isn't fun?? Bob J Rebel 192/731
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Fogelin" <elist@whidbey.com>
To: "Rebel-Builders" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 12:50 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Trimming Cabin Roof

I have fitted and cleco'd my cabin roof leaving an overhang on both sides.
I
am about to remove, trim and rivet back on. After studying all the photos
of
Elite and Rebel construction that I can find, I see that trimming flush
with
the fuselage is normal. Why not leave a 3/4" overhang between the rear and
front wing attach?

This overhang would be similar to the wing fuel tank skin and allow
material
to screw the wing root fairing into. Good idea/bad idea?

Eric Fogelin
Elite 645

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[Jesse Jenks]

Eric,
I think it was Wayne who said not to screw the fairings to the cabin, only
the wing. I guess the fear is that with a severe wing flexing event the
cabin roof could be damaged if the fairings are not allowed to move.
Jesse

From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Trimming Cabin Roof
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 10:37:54 -0500

I didn't have to trim my roof either but I don't see any reason not to
leave an overhang. Just make sure there's enough space to get a nylon sling
around your front wing attach point that's where I lift my plane when
changing from wheels to floats.

At 09:50 PM 1/22/2007 -0800, you wrote:

I have fitted and cleco'd my cabin roof leaving an overhang on both

sides. I

am about to remove, trim and rivet back on. After studying all the photos

of

Elite and Rebel construction that I can find, I see that trimming flush

with

the fuselage is normal. Why not leave a 3/4" overhang between the rear

and

front wing attach?

This overhang would be similar to the wing fuel tank skin and allow

material

to screw the wing root fairing into. Good idea/bad idea?

Eric Fogelin
Elite 645

P.S. Background: I have been on this list since 1999 when I bought my

kit.

The first year I completed the tail and wing control surfaces. Then,
standard story, built house, moved, move work shop 3 times... I jumped

back

in last June, finished both wings and moving along on the fuselage. 50%
deposit on factory-built 1800 Amphibs due March. Superior XP-360 arriving
February. Goal is to fly to Oshkosh. (Could be fantasy).

Many thanks to all of you on the list. I have been reading and catching

up

on many issues in the archives. Mike Betti, in particular, has already

asked

all of the questions that I would have asked, blazing an Elite trail for

me.

So, I will try to ask unique ones or just get clarification.

Thanks to all...more questions to follow.




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Drew



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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Edzakery Jesse. In the event of a wing hit I've seen the cabin take extra
damage that it wouldn't have.... from the fairing being screwed to both the
wing and the fus. I only attach to the wing and let the other side float on
top of the fuselage (with weather strip underneath so it doesn't cut in).
Besides...why drill holes in the fuselage just so you can have water
dripping in thru them!

On the cabin roof trim....It sure makes it easier to build a square cabin if
the skin is the proper width before hand. Not placing it on top of wiggling
structures when over width and then trimming later. It must be whom ever is
working in the MAM shop at the time when this roof skin gets made...as so
far I haven't "lucked out" to get the extra 4" of .020 material. All have
been cut to width in the kits I've done.

X-vent lines and assembling the control horn linkage can become interesting
if you can only access from below. With the cabin roof flush to the FUS-27
it can be tight enough in there to work on fuel fittings on the X-vent, I
sure wouldn't want to lose any working room by leaving the roof hanging over
the gap.

My 2 cents for the penny they're worth,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Trimming Cabin Roof

Eric,
I think it was Wayne who said not to screw the fairings to the cabin, only
the wing. I guess the fear is that with a severe wing flexing event the
cabin roof could be damaged if the fairings are not allowed to move.
Jesse

From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Trimming Cabin Roof
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 10:37:54 -0500

I didn't have to trim my roof either but I don't see any reason not to
leave an overhang. Just make sure there's enough space to get a nylon
sling
around your front wing attach point that's where I lift my plane when
changing from wheels to floats.

At 09:50 PM 1/22/2007 -0800, you wrote:

I have fitted and cleco'd my cabin roof leaving an overhang on both

sides. I

am about to remove, trim and rivet back on. After studying all the
photos

of

Elite and Rebel construction that I can find, I see that trimming flush

with

the fuselage is normal. Why not leave a 3/4" overhang between the rear

and

front wing attach?

This overhang would be similar to the wing fuel tank skin and allow

material

to screw the wing root fairing into. Good idea/bad idea?

Eric Fogelin
Elite 645

P.S. Background: I have been on this list since 1999 when I bought my

kit.

The first year I completed the tail and wing control surfaces. Then,
standard story, built house, moved, move work shop 3 times... I jumped

back

in last June, finished both wings and moving along on the fuselage. 50%
deposit on factory-built 1800 Amphibs due March. Superior XP-360
arriving
February. Goal is to fly to Oshkosh. (Could be fantasy).

Many thanks to all of you on the list. I have been reading and catching

up

on many issues in the archives. Mike Betti, in particular, has already

asked

all of the questions that I would have asked, blazing an Elite trail for

me.

So, I will try to ask unique ones or just get clarification.

Thanks to all...more questions to follow.




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Drew



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[Garry Wright]

And to supplement Wayne's comment:

When I put FOKM down hard on the floats and she snapped 90* to the left
I was later able to estimate how much the wingtips swung relative to
cabin. Each tip appears to have moved approximately 1 foot out of
position, the right rearward, the left forward. The only consequence of
this was shearing of the rivets at the side of the panel and a small
crushing of the left forward wing fairing. The cabin twisted elastically
and returned to its original shape. If screws had been on the cabin
side, a good deal of cabin roof damage would have occurred.

Garry

On Tue, 2007-01-23 at 12:38 -0500, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Edzakery Jesse. In the event of a wing hit I've seen the cabin take extra
damage that it wouldn't have.... from the fairing being screwed to both the
wing and the fus. I only attach to the wing and let the other side float on
top of the fuselage (with weather strip underneath so it doesn't cut in).
Besides...why drill holes in the fuselage just so you can have water
dripping in thru them!

On the cabin roof trim....It sure makes it easier to build a square cabin if
the skin is the proper width before hand. Not placing it on top of wiggling
structures when over width and then trimming later. It must be whom ever is
working in the MAM shop at the time when this roof skin gets made...as so
far I haven't "lucked out" to get the extra 4" of .020 material. All have
been cut to width in the kits I've done.

X-vent lines and assembling the control horn linkage can become interesting
if you can only access from below. With the cabin roof flush to the FUS-27
it can be tight enough in there to work on fuel fittings on the X-vent, I
sure wouldn't want to lose any working room by leaving the roof hanging over
the gap.

My 2 cents for the penny they're worth,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Trimming Cabin Roof

Eric,
I think it was Wayne who said not to screw the fairings to the cabin, only
the wing. I guess the fear is that with a severe wing flexing event the
cabin roof could be damaged if the fairings are not allowed to move.
Jesse

From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Trimming Cabin Roof
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 10:37:54 -0500

I didn't have to trim my roof either but I don't see any reason not to
leave an overhang. Just make sure there's enough space to get a nylon
sling
around your front wing attach point that's where I lift my plane when
changing from wheels to floats.

At 09:50 PM 1/22/2007 -0800, you wrote: sides. I of with and material kit. back up asked me. Drew



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[Eric Fogelin]

2 cents lifted from the penny jar.

Studying various photos from websites and planes at Arlington including the
factory Elite in 1999 or 2000, many have attached the fairing to both wing
and fuselage, some didn't. I didn't like going into the main cabin roof, but
didn't think about large wing movement.

Since all float planes go under water or bang a wing eventually (at the
dock, flipped by wind, landing, drifting, snow loading down the tail, engine
doesn't start, engine doesn't stop, pilings, jet skis, logs, whales, etc.),
providing some give at the root attach sounds like excellent advice.

Thanks.

Eric Fogelin
645E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 9:39 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Trimming Cabin Roof

Edzakery Jesse. In the event of a wing hit I've seen the cabin take extra
damage that it wouldn't have.... from the fairing being screwed to both the
wing and the fus. I only attach to the wing and let the other side float on
top of the fuselage (with weather strip underneath so it doesn't cut in).
Besides...why drill holes in the fuselage just so you can have water
dripping in thru them!

On the cabin roof trim....It sure makes it easier to build a square cabin if

the skin is the proper width before hand. Not placing it on top of wiggling
structures when over width and then trimming later. It must be whom ever is
working in the MAM shop at the time when this roof skin gets made...as so
far I haven't "lucked out" to get the extra 4" of .020 material. All have
been cut to width in the kits I've done.

X-vent lines and assembling the control horn linkage can become interesting
if you can only access from below. With the cabin roof flush to the FUS-27
it can be tight enough in there to work on fuel fittings on the X-vent, I
sure wouldn't want to lose any working room by leaving the roof hanging over

the gap.

My 2 cents for the penny they're worth,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Trimming Cabin Roof

Eric,
I think it was Wayne who said not to screw the fairings to the cabin, only
the wing. I guess the fear is that with a severe wing flexing event the
cabin roof could be damaged if the fairings are not allowed to move.
Jesse

From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Trimming Cabin Roof
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 10:37:54 -0500

I didn't have to trim my roof either but I don't see any reason not to
leave an overhang. Just make sure there's enough space to get a nylon
sling
around your front wing attach point that's where I lift my plane when
changing from wheels to floats.

At 09:50 PM 1/22/2007 -0800, you wrote:

I have fitted and cleco'd my cabin roof leaving an overhang on both

sides. I

am about to remove, trim and rivet back on. After studying all the
photos

of

Elite and Rebel construction that I can find, I see that trimming flush

with

the fuselage is normal. Why not leave a 3/4" overhang between the rear

and

front wing attach?

This overhang would be similar to the wing fuel tank skin and allow

material

to screw the wing root fairing into. Good idea/bad idea?

Eric Fogelin
Elite 645

P.S. Background: I have been on this list since 1999 when I bought my

kit.

The first year I completed the tail and wing control surfaces. Then,
standard story, built house, moved, move work shop 3 times... I jumped

back

in last June, finished both wings and moving along on the fuselage. 50%
deposit on factory-built 1800 Amphibs due March. Superior XP-360
arriving
February. Goal is to fly to Oshkosh. (Could be fantasy).

Many thanks to all of you on the list. I have been reading and catching

up

on many issues in the archives. Mike Betti, in particular, has already

asked

all of the questions that I would have asked, blazing an Elite trail for

me.

So, I will try to ask unique ones or just get clarification.

Thanks to all...more questions to follow.




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