Tape off everywhere you do not want pro-seal, and if you don't want to
mess with the curing, do not use acetone. It will be somewhat absorbed and
affect the finished product. For pre-cleaning, again don't use acetone as it
reportedly leaves a residue. Xylene or toluene does not ... so say the
chemists. Did I mention to tape off everything you don't want pro-seal on?
For fuel tanks I paint on the thin pro-seal and after a partial cure I filet with
the thick stuff ... after a partail cure (touchable without smearing) I again
paint on the thin stuff. Tape off everthing you .......
On 12/2/2006 10:00 AM,
jessejenks@hotmail.com wrote to rebel-builders:
-> When I did the fuel tanks it took me hours with acetone to cleanup the
-> exterior partially cured ooze. I sure would like to avoid that process X 100
-> for the floats. What about the smears from goopy thumbs etc? Can you
get
-> that stuff off post cure as well? The problem is that once you start
-> cleaning with a rag it becomes a huge mess and you're forced to keep
-> scrubbing until it's all clean.
-> Jesse
->
->
-> >From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <
oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
-> >Reply-To: <
rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> >To: <
rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> >Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread
-> >Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 15:20:46 -0500
-> >
-> >Exterior clean up entails nothing but waiting for it to cure and then
-> >putting someone to work peeling the "o-rings" off the rivet heads. The
ooze
-> >out along the chines etc is easy to peel immediately after it's tacked up
-> >(next day) and if you wait a bit longer requires a careful cut with
-> >exacta/olfa knife.
-> >
-> >I've put sikaflex over cured proseal on some repairs..but never the other
-> >way around. They seem to stick alright. I'd play with some scraps first to
-> >see how it does.
-> >
-> >Wayne
-> >
-> >----- Original Message -----
-> >From: "Ken" <
klehman@albedo.net>
-> >To: <
rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> >Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 3:16 PM
-> >Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread
-> >
-> >
-> > >I guessed something like that. I was also thinking that with so much
-> > > sealant you must have a heck of a cleanup job afterwards on the
-> > > exterior. I wasn't planning on being quite as generous with the sealant
-> > > as I was with the fuel tanks but maybe I should be.
-> > >
-> > > Since I have a bunch of proseal and since I'd like to keep the bottoms
-> > > resistant to any leaked hydraulic fluid, anti freeze, etc. I plan to use
-> > > it for at least the lower skins. In my cool basement it seems to take
-> > > forever for the stuff to setup anyway. Seems silly to ask if the two
-> > > stickiest substances that I know of will stick to each other but has
-> > > anybody tried that?? I'm guessing that the proseal will soften the
-> > > sikkaflex and probably adhere nicely??
-> > >
-> > > Ken
-> > >
-> > > Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
-> > >
-> > >>BTW..for those that have the Float Build CD and are wondering how I
did
-> > >>the
-> > >>sealant spread over rivet heads as shown in the pictures. I just take a
-> > >>wood
-> > >>tongue depressor..cut it off square and then add a notch in the
center
-> > >>just
-> > >>slightly wider/deeper than a rivet head. Makes for a clean cover seal
-> > >>without waste/extra weight and it's neat.
-> > >>
-> > >>Wayne
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
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-> > >
-> > >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
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->
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