flaperons. I reamed the aluminum brackets for slide fit, press fit would add
stresses. To stop the bushing from rotating I put in one 3/32 solid flush
rivet thru the bushing flange and the bracket. I had this OKd by MAM.
The inside brackets (the ones at the horns) work harder than the ones on the
ends so I made them from 1/4" thick 6061 T6 alum angle and the one on the
bottom of the rudder from 3/16 steel angle because with 1/4" alum my rudder
did not fit. My elevators and rudder ride on the flanges of the bushings.
I only did all this because I saw some significantly worn bracket holes on
some well enjoyed Rebels.
Now Im just building by the manual, no improvements at all except for "the
must do Rebel beef-ups", so that I get it done and flying.
Paul K
Mississauga
rebel 453R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Michael" <Michael.Jones@snclavalin.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:47 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Horizontal Stabilizer
Ken
Believe on builder from stoney creek put brass bushings in all locations
on
tail feathers, might have even been approve by Murphy but it would have to
be confirmed to be sure
mike
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:30 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Horizontal Stabilizer
The thing is that the bolt itself has little ability to resist side
loading or wobble. It is the 3/8 steel bushing tight against the spar
cap that provides most of the resistance to side to side movement of the
bolt. I would not be comfortable simply replacing the steel AIL-26
sleeve with a plastic part.
The other proposal made from time to time is to bush the holes that the
AIL-26 goes into. Except for the bottom of the rudder, I'd guess that
the 3/8" id x 1/2" od flanged bushings would be fine. It does not sound
like this is really a high wear area though and my aluminum brackets
don't have a lot of extra metal there to drill out. The next question
would be - can you actually source the bushings without buying a
thousand of them, or do you have a lathe to make your own? The flange
will take up a bit of space if the control surface is a tight fit. Wayne
might comment, but I consider most of those plastics with various trade
names like acetal, acetron, etc. to be equivalent to delrin. Anyway I
built to the plans, assembled them with grease, and will bush them later
if they wear.
I did put a brass bushing at the bottom of the rudder though. That
lower bushing does have higher loading than the others and it does
collect a lot more dirt ,oil, and water, than the others. Maybe it
wouldn't collect the dirt if it was plastic and dry instead of oiled but
in my mind the loading might be a bit high for plastic??
Ken
rognal@dcsol.com wrote:
Question: If the Rebel rudder/elevator pivot bolts/bushings/brackets are
high wear areas, and if these bolts/bushings do not need to be "too
tight",
why not replace the steel bushing(s) with a synthetic (?) bushing such as
these:
http://qbcbearings.com/RFQ/B610HTML/B610P116.html Plain sleeve
bearing/machined acetron/non-metallic/self-lubricating,
Or http://qbcbearings.com/RFQ/B610HTML/B610P118.html Plain sleeve
bearing/non-metallic/teflon
Or something similiar ie; nylon, delrin, etc.
I have no real familiarity with the properties of any of this material,
but
it seems I've seen most of it described as having high wear and self
lubricating properties.
Under 'not too tight' conditions could these synthetic bushings be
suitable
as a replacement bushing with no need for additional lubrication.
Thanks for any comments.
Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!
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