[rebel-builders] Fuel Tank Leak

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

U sure it's not just atmospheric pressure change screwing you around? Put a
condom on the filler neck and repeat the test. Blow it up like a water tower
and the ideal case is you find it fully inflated inside the tank thanks to
temp/pressure change the next morning. If it will draw a vacuum that
way....you know the tank is leak free.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Cole" <rcole927@earthlink.net>
To: "Rebel Builder's List" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 10:11 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Fuel Tank Leak

I have been chasing leaks in my first fuel tank. The leakage rate
requires about 24 hours to leak from about 1 psi to 0.02 psi as
measured by a water manometer. I have checked all of the joints that I
can get at with soapy water and have not found the leak. The problem
is that I haven't figured out how to check for leaks in the leading
edge D section. Does anyone have a suggestion?

If I find a leak in the D section, how can I fix it?

I am not eager to cut holes in the tank to seal it from the inside if I
don't know where the leak is or whether it really is a leak. HELP!
---
Roger Cole
Elite 709E




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[Ken]

FWIW all my "leaks" were at the filler neck opening. It is difficult to
seal the filler opening for testing and easy not to notice a leak around
whatever you have covering it. I probably used two dozen wraps of
elastic band on my latex gloves there to get a seal.

Failing that I'd consider going in through the bottom of the tank and
paint every joint and rivet with brushable proseal. You know that you
have a leak and it will be even more difficult to fix leaks after fuel
has been in the tank. At this point the surfaces are still clean and any
drips or mess will stick to existing proseal or the bare metal quite
well. I have an oval access cover (flush with the surface) in the center
bay and you'd never notice it or consider it unusual if you did notice
it. Most leaks tend to be at the top of the tank and many of those are
along the stringers.

Ken

Roger Cole wrote:

I have been chasing leaks in my first fuel tank. The leakage rate
requires about 24 hours to leak from about 1 psi to 0.02 psi as
measured by a water manometer. I have checked all of the joints that I
can get at with soapy water and have not found the leak. The problem
is that I haven't figured out how to check for leaks in the leading
edge D section. Does anyone have a suggestion?

If I find a leak in the D section, how can I fix it?

I am not eager to cut holes in the tank to seal it from the inside if I
don't know where the leak is or whether it really is a leak. HELP!
---
Roger Cole
Elite 709E

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[Roger Cole]

Many thanks to those who replied to my question about fuel tank leaks.
I made a long stethoscope but didn't find any leaks in the leading edge
area. I borrowed a Freon sniffer (halogen leak detector) and found a
leak at a stringer that the soap bubbles missed. After fixing the
leak, the tank has been under about 9.5 to 12 inches of water pressure
for about 28 hours without losing pressure. So, I consider it sealed
without having to cut a hole in the skin and making a patch. :-)
---
Roger Cole
Elite 709E)
On Nov 27, 2006, at 8:50 AM, Ralph Baker wrote:

We tested our tanks using a plumbers rubber hole plug in the filler
neck. These have a thumbscrew to expand them to seal. Then what ever
you choose can be used to seal the other 3 outlets and provide for a
pressure / vacuum indication and small pump. We used a syringe used
to pressurize motorcycle air forks. BIG caution - do not use over a
pound or two and monitor if temperature changes. If your guage is not
that sensitive use the condom method which is risk free (at least for
tank testing). As Wayne says, either pressure of vacuum is fine, zero
pressure indicates leakage but do consider that zero may be while
transitioning from pressure to vacuum.

A stethoscope with a long tube through the inspection holes was used
to find a leak in the front spar area. Pressurize the tank and listen
for escaping air which is easy to hear when you reach the location.
The "whoosh" means surgery and constructing a flush patch plate after
resealing.
Ralph Baker



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[N.Smith]

Hi Roger
Glad to hear you found your leak. Sounds like your wing has really
progressed since our visit.
Did you fix it by drawing proseal in from the outside using a slight vacuum
?
Weather getting too cold to do outside fuselage stuff now, so I'm planning
my first day back in the shed with the first wing tomorrow.
Nig

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Roger Cole
Sent: 04 December 2006 02:16
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] fuel tank leak


Many thanks to those who replied to my question about fuel tank leaks.
I made a long stethoscope but didn't find any leaks in the leading edge
area. I borrowed a Freon sniffer (halogen leak detector) and found a
leak at a stringer that the soap bubbles missed. After fixing the
leak, the tank has been under about 9.5 to 12 inches of water pressure
for about 28 hours without losing pressure. So, I consider it sealed
without having to cut a hole in the skin and making a patch. :-)
---
Roger Cole
Elite 709E)
On Nov 27, 2006, at 8:50 AM, Ralph Baker wrote:

We tested our tanks using a plumbers rubber hole plug in the filler
neck. These have a thumbscrew to expand them to seal. Then what ever
you choose can be used to seal the other 3 outlets and provide for a
pressure / vacuum indication and small pump. We used a syringe used
to pressurize motorcycle air forks. BIG caution - do not use over a
pound or two and monitor if temperature changes. If your guage is not
that sensitive use the condom method which is risk free (at least for
tank testing). As Wayne says, either pressure of vacuum is fine, zero
pressure indicates leakage but do consider that zero may be while
transitioning from pressure to vacuum.

A stethoscope with a long tube through the inspection holes was used
to find a leak in the front spar area. Pressurize the tank and listen
for escaping air which is easy to hear when you reach the location.
The "whoosh" means surgery and constructing a flush patch plate after
resealing.
Ralph Baker



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[Roger Cole]

Hi Nigel,
I used a small battery-operated blower that was originally used for
inflating or deflating an air mattress. It will pull about 5 inches of
water vacuum. First I scuffed the area around the leak with
Scotch-Brite. Then, I painted the area of the leak with ProSeal
diluted with acetone in the hope that the vacuum would draw the ProSeal
into the leak. Not sure if it really did. After about 10 minutes I
painted it again with un-diluted ProSeal. This particular leak was
close enough to the fuel filler to reach with a brush taped to the end
of a stick. I did that after letting the ProSeal on the outside set
for a day. I'm not sure whether I put enough ProSeal in the right
place to seal it from the inside because it was on the trailing-edge
side of the stringer. Looking at it with an inspection mirror didn't
give a clear view.

I feel very fortunate to have sealed the last leak before the weather
turned bitter cold (4*F at night). My 1000-Watt electric heater isn't
powerful enough to keep it warm under such conditions.
On Dec 4, 2006, at 2:25 AM, N.Smith wrote:

Hi Roger
Glad to hear you found your leak. Sounds like your wing has really
progressed since our visit.
Did you fix it by drawing proseal in from the outside using a slight
vacuum
?
Weather getting too cold to do outside fuselage stuff now, so I'm
planning
my first day back in the shed with the first wing tomorrow.
Nig

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Roger Cole
Sent: 04 December 2006 02:16
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] fuel tank leak


Many thanks to those who replied to my question about fuel tank leaks.
I made a long stethoscope but didn't find any leaks in the leading edge
area. I borrowed a Freon sniffer (halogen leak detector) and found a
leak at a stringer that the soap bubbles missed. After fixing the
leak, the tank has been under about 9.5 to 12 inches of water pressure
for about 28 hours without losing pressure. So, I consider it sealed
without having to cut a hole in the skin and making a patch. :-)
---
Roger Cole
Elite 709E)
On Nov 27, 2006, at 8:50 AM, Ralph Baker wrote:

We tested our tanks using a plumbers rubber hole plug in the filler
neck. These have a thumbscrew to expand them to seal. Then what ever
you choose can be used to seal the other 3 outlets and provide for a
pressure / vacuum indication and small pump. We used a syringe used
to pressurize motorcycle air forks. BIG caution - do not use over a
pound or two and monitor if temperature changes. If your guage is not
that sensitive use the condom method which is risk free (at least for
tank testing). As Wayne says, either pressure of vacuum is fine, zero
pressure indicates leakage but do consider that zero may be while
transitioning from pressure to vacuum.

A stethoscope with a long tube through the inspection holes was used
to find a leak in the front spar area. Pressurize the tank and listen
for escaping air which is easy to hear when you reach the location.
The "whoosh" means surgery and constructing a flush patch plate after
resealing.
Ralph Baker



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[Mike Kimball]

We call +4F "balmy" here in Fairbanks.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Roger
Cole
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 5:08 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] fuel tank leak

Hi Nigel,
I used a small battery-operated blower that was originally used for
inflating or deflating an air mattress. It will pull about 5 inches of
water vacuum. First I scuffed the area around the leak with
Scotch-Brite. Then, I painted the area of the leak with ProSeal
diluted with acetone in the hope that the vacuum would draw the ProSeal
into the leak. Not sure if it really did. After about 10 minutes I
painted it again with un-diluted ProSeal. This particular leak was
close enough to the fuel filler to reach with a brush taped to the end
of a stick. I did that after letting the ProSeal on the outside set
for a day. I'm not sure whether I put enough ProSeal in the right
place to seal it from the inside because it was on the trailing-edge
side of the stringer. Looking at it with an inspection mirror didn't
give a clear view.

I feel very fortunate to have sealed the last leak before the weather
turned bitter cold (4*F at night). My 1000-Watt electric heater isn't
powerful enough to keep it warm under such conditions.
On Dec 4, 2006, at 2:25 AM, N.Smith wrote:

Hi Roger
Glad to hear you found your leak. Sounds like your wing has really
progressed since our visit.
Did you fix it by drawing proseal in from the outside using a slight
vacuum
?
Weather getting too cold to do outside fuselage stuff now, so I'm
planning
my first day back in the shed with the first wing tomorrow.
Nig

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Roger Cole
Sent: 04 December 2006 02:16
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] fuel tank leak


Many thanks to those who replied to my question about fuel tank leaks.
I made a long stethoscope but didn't find any leaks in the leading edge
area. I borrowed a Freon sniffer (halogen leak detector) and found a
leak at a stringer that the soap bubbles missed. After fixing the
leak, the tank has been under about 9.5 to 12 inches of water pressure
for about 28 hours without losing pressure. So, I consider it sealed
without having to cut a hole in the skin and making a patch. :-)
---
Roger Cole
Elite 709E)
On Nov 27, 2006, at 8:50 AM, Ralph Baker wrote:

We tested our tanks using a plumbers rubber hole plug in the filler
neck. These have a thumbscrew to expand them to seal. Then what ever
you choose can be used to seal the other 3 outlets and provide for a
pressure / vacuum indication and small pump. We used a syringe used
to pressurize motorcycle air forks. BIG caution - do not use over a
pound or two and monitor if temperature changes. If your guage is not
that sensitive use the condom method which is risk free (at least for
tank testing). As Wayne says, either pressure of vacuum is fine, zero
pressure indicates leakage but do consider that zero may be while
transitioning from pressure to vacuum.

A stethoscope with a long tube through the inspection holes was used
to find a leak in the front spar area. Pressurize the tank and listen
for escaping air which is easy to hear when you reach the location.
The "whoosh" means surgery and constructing a flush patch plate after
resealing.
Ralph Baker



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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

I hear yah Mike...I'd kill for that right now as well so I could find the
wood we cut... to get it through the splitter and piled to dry.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Kimball" <mkimball@gci.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 4:01 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] fuel tank leak

We call +4F "balmy" here in Fairbanks.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Roger
Cole
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 5:08 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] fuel tank leak

Hi Nigel,
I used a small battery-operated blower that was originally used for
inflating or deflating an air mattress. It will pull about 5 inches of
water vacuum. First I scuffed the area around the leak with
Scotch-Brite. Then, I painted the area of the leak with ProSeal
diluted with acetone in the hope that the vacuum would draw the ProSeal
into the leak. Not sure if it really did. After about 10 minutes I
painted it again with un-diluted ProSeal. This particular leak was
close enough to the fuel filler to reach with a brush taped to the end
of a stick. I did that after letting the ProSeal on the outside set
for a day. I'm not sure whether I put enough ProSeal in the right
place to seal it from the inside because it was on the trailing-edge
side of the stringer. Looking at it with an inspection mirror didn't
give a clear view.

I feel very fortunate to have sealed the last leak before the weather
turned bitter cold (4*F at night). My 1000-Watt electric heater isn't
powerful enough to keep it warm under such conditions.
On Dec 4, 2006, at 2:25 AM, N.Smith wrote:

Hi Roger
Glad to hear you found your leak. Sounds like your wing has really
progressed since our visit.
Did you fix it by drawing proseal in from the outside using a slight
vacuum
?
Weather getting too cold to do outside fuselage stuff now, so I'm
planning
my first day back in the shed with the first wing tomorrow.
Nig

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Roger Cole
Sent: 04 December 2006 02:16
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] fuel tank leak


Many thanks to those who replied to my question about fuel tank leaks.
I made a long stethoscope but didn't find any leaks in the leading edge
area. I borrowed a Freon sniffer (halogen leak detector) and found a
leak at a stringer that the soap bubbles missed. After fixing the
leak, the tank has been under about 9.5 to 12 inches of water pressure
for about 28 hours without losing pressure. So, I consider it sealed
without having to cut a hole in the skin and making a patch. :-)
---
Roger Cole
Elite 709E)
On Nov 27, 2006, at 8:50 AM, Ralph Baker wrote:

We tested our tanks using a plumbers rubber hole plug in the filler
neck. These have a thumbscrew to expand them to seal. Then what ever
you choose can be used to seal the other 3 outlets and provide for a
pressure / vacuum indication and small pump. We used a syringe used
to pressurize motorcycle air forks. BIG caution - do not use over a
pound or two and monitor if temperature changes. If your guage is not
that sensitive use the condom method which is risk free (at least for
tank testing). As Wayne says, either pressure of vacuum is fine, zero
pressure indicates leakage but do consider that zero may be while
transitioning from pressure to vacuum.

A stethoscope with a long tube through the inspection holes was used
to find a leak in the front spar area. Pressurize the tank and listen
for escaping air which is easy to hear when you reach the location.
The "whoosh" means surgery and constructing a flush patch plate after
resealing.
Ralph Baker



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[Gary Gustafson]

I too had a leak in the right wing tank at the top trailing edge
and could not stop it until I cut an inspection port in the rib
next to the fuselage, cleaned the area, and the sealed with ProSeal.
This approach requires an inspection plate, several doublers, and
more ProSeal around the inspection hole doublers and inspection
plate. Takes a bit of time but seems to have worked with no leaks
on the trailing edge or around the inspection port, so far.

ProSeal on the outside did not work even with negative pressure (slight).

Good luck



-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of David
R. Greaton
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 12:05 PM
To: rebel builbers list
Subject: [rebel-builders] Fuel tank leak

Hi All,

I just pressure tested my wing tanks. This is one of the wings built in the
Phillipines that leaked awfull. After much sealing I have one leak left and
I would appreciate any and all advice. The leak is in the top of the wing
in the area where the strut attaches. It is a small hole maby the size of a
pencile lead in the very top and in a corner. I can easily acess it from
inside the strut area without opening up my wing again (which I would prefer
not to do). My question is will tho pro-seal hold in this area if applied
over the zincchromate or do I mave to try to remove the chromate, and will a
patch from the outside be OK?

Thanks,
Dave Greaton
SR/MOOSE 189



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[Richard Wampach]

If I may suggest... Try a small batch of pro-seal thinned with toluol, apply
to the area of the leak on the outside of lathe tank, then apply a slight
vacuum to the tank, WARNING more than an inch or two of pressure
difference could cause structural damage. The solvent will evaporate out
and the sealant will cure properly. Just applying sealant to the outside is
a good invitation for a leak at a later date.

Dick Wampach SR-108

Subject: [rebel-builders] Fuel tank leak


Hi All,

I just pressure tested my wing tanks. This is one of the wings built in the
Phillipines that leaked awfull. After much sealing I have one leak left and
I would appreciate any and all advice. The leak is in the top of the wing
in the area where the strut attaches. It is a small hole maby the size of a
pencile lead in the very top and in a corner. I can easily acess it from
inside the strut area without opening up my wing again (which I would prefer
not to do). My question is will tho pro-seal hold in this area if applied
over the zincchromate or do I mave to try to remove the chromate, and will a
patch from the outside be OK?

Thanks,
Dave Greaton
SR/MOOSE 189







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[Brian Bridgewater]

Hi Dave

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

It should be outlawed everywhere!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Bridgewater" <ecomind@ymail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Fuel tank leak

Hi Dave Have you not used sloshing compound in the tank yet or is it
outlawed over there, regards Brian rebel 274R




________________________________
From: David R. Greaton <dgreaton@maine.rr.com>
To: rebel builbers list <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wed, 16 December, 2009 17:05:24
Subject: [rebel-builders] Fuel tank leak

Hi All,

I just pressure tested my wing tanks. This is one of the wings built in
the Phillipines that leaked awfull. After much sealing I have one leak
left and I would appreciate any and all advice. The leak is in the top of
the wing in the area where the strut attaches. It is a small hole maby the
size of a pencile lead in the very top and in a corner. I can easily acess
it from inside the strut area without opening up my wing again (which I
would prefer not to do). My question is will tho pro-seal hold in this
area if applied over the zincchromate or do I mave to try to remove the
chromate, and will a patch from the outside be OK?

Thanks,
Dave Greaton
SR/MOOSE 189



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[Hans Kuck]

There is a commercial slosh sealer ( I forgot the Brand name) on the market.
Aviall sells it.

I did not take a chance with wet tanks and slosh sealed the tanks prior to
installation. I used a qt of sealer in each tank, rotated the wing on a
"rotisserie"

No leaks yet Cross your fingers.!!. Worked well for me. Pricy about $ 75 a
qt, but worth it, I think
cheers
Hans
640E

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 10:48 AM, Gary Gustafson <gargus@comcast.net> wrote:

I too had a leak in the right wing tank at the top trailing edge
and could not stop it until I cut an inspection port in the rib
next to the fuselage, cleaned the area, and the sealed with ProSeal.
This approach requires an inspection plate, several doublers, and
more ProSeal around the inspection hole doublers and inspection
plate. Takes a bit of time but seems to have worked with no leaks
on the trailing edge or around the inspection port, so far.

ProSeal on the outside did not work even with negative pressure (slight).

Good luck



-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
David
R. Greaton
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 12:05 PM
To: rebel builbers list
Subject: [rebel-builders] Fuel tank leak

Hi All,

I just pressure tested my wing tanks. This is one of the wings built in the
Phillipines that leaked awfull. After much sealing I have one leak left and
I would appreciate any and all advice. The leak is in the top of the wing
in the area where the strut attaches. It is a small hole maby the size of a
pencile lead in the very top and in a corner. I can easily acess it from
inside the strut area without opening up my wing again (which I would
prefer
not to do). My question is will tho pro-seal hold in this area if applied
over the zincchromate or do I mave to try to remove the chromate, and will
a
patch from the outside be OK?

Thanks,
Dave Greaton
SR/MOOSE 189



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--
Hans Kuck
P.O.Box 2212
Sechelt B.C.
V0N 3A0
Canada




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[Brian Bridgewater]

Hi Wayne nice to see you taking an interest again, I take you have had a lot of experience with sloshing comp, I have only used the red can't remember what it is called but have had only sucsesfull results with it

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

I've always had an interest and always will... just don't need some of the
BS that goes with that.. and besides the wife's out of town and the Leaf's
suck! I couldn't sit back and let the use of sloshing compound take another
round, around here as SOP.

I was brought up to fix it right.... or don't fix it at all. Over the last
20 years I've seen different brands and different "colours" come back to
haunt many. At one time I considered lobbying Transport Canada / MDRA to
refuse a final inspection of an aircraft if any evidence of sloshing
compound being used in a fuel tank was found.

I've opened up one that used the yellow Randolph sloshing compound, SEVEN
years prior, and watched it ouzz out from under the "skin over" as the parts
sat leaning against the wall. Picture a can of paint you've had in the
basement for 4 years.. skimmed over hard.. liquid underneath. Just a
disaster waiting to happen when that skin over lets go and smothers your
outlet screen. Randolph white.. the alchohol resistant type 912 I think it
is... After a while it just dries out and flakes off like scrapping paint
chips off Grandmas old picket fence. Aircraft that I shipped to Maui.. had
the Red in it's tanks, with lots of leaks and issues, and I ended up riping
the entire 3 bay fuel tank assemblies out of the wings and starting over
with straight PRC before I sold it to the lads over there.

Almost met my maker about 15 years ago at a local flyin. Went to go for a
spin in a Luscombe 8E with 150 HP lyco in it. Thank god it died taxing the
30 feet from beside the hangar to the grass strip. Gascolator packed pull of
sloshing compound that let go... and kinda glad someone skipped protocal and
didn't have finger strainers in the tank outlets!

Just a few of my observations... and I think they'll keep me alive. I sure
hope that all you guys that sloshed got everything drained back out... the
stringers must be a bitch to do so... and that you use a mirror and
flashlight on occassion to check you tanks and pull your finger strainers at
annuals.

Regards,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Bridgewater" <ecomind@ymail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Fuel tank leak

Hi Wayne nice to see you taking an interest again, I take you have had a
lot of experience with sloshing comp, I have only used the red can't
remember what it is called but have had only sucsesfull results with it I
have seen a white substance that sets very hard and brittal which I had to
clean out of this rebel and reseal with the red stuff but would like to
hear your veiws regards Brian.




________________________________
From: Wayne G. O'Shea <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Sent: Thu, 17 December, 2009 0:12:13
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Fuel tank leak

It should be outlawed everywhere!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Bridgewater" <ecomind@ymail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Fuel tank leak

Hi Dave Have you not used sloshing compound in the tank yet or is it
outlawed over there, regards Brian rebel 274R




________________________________
From: David R. Greaton <dgreaton@maine.rr.com>
To: rebel builbers list <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wed, 16 December, 2009 17:05:24
Subject: [rebel-builders] Fuel tank leak

Hi All,

I just pressure tested my wing tanks. This is one of the wings built in
the Phillipines that leaked awfull. After much sealing I have one leak
left and I would appreciate any and all advice. The leak is in the top of
the wing in the area where the strut attaches. It is a small hole maby
the
size of a pencile lead in the very top and in a corner. I can easily
acess
it from inside the strut area without opening up my wing again (which I
would prefer not to do). My question is will tho pro-seal hold in this
area if applied over the zincchromate or do I mave to try to remove the
chromate, and will a patch from the outside be OK?

Thanks,
Dave Greaton
SR/MOOSE 189



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[Brian Bridgewater]

Wayne thanks for those words of wisdom, I think that I did mine the best way, before