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Flush riveting Leading Edge

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Eric Fogelin

Flush riveting Leading Edge

Post by Eric Fogelin » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:56 pm

I gathered the feedback on this issue that was sent to the list and
to me privately. The bottom of the mail has my questions to the
factory on flush riveting and dimpling techniques. The response
is very useful for folks considering flush riveting the leading
edge as well as dimpling and countersinking in general:

------

Hi Eric,

I will give you the way I see all this countersinking/dimpling confusion.
The Rebel series of aircraft were never intended to be flush riveted. For
some unknown reason customers started to ask whether they could do this to
their leading edges on the Rebel, so the Elite and SR were given thicker
leading edges, also helping with their Gross weight increase. .032 is JUST
thick enough to c/s if you are very careful, and have experience with a
microstop. If done properly, the holes will be fine.
Dimpling causes several problems. You are deforming the skin, and in the
certified world heated dimpling tools are used to help prevent cracking.
Also the hole has to end up enlarged...you are stretching it. So that's why
you should drill to final size after dimpling. In the small areas indicated
in our manuals, the swell of the avex rivet takes care of the enlarged hole.
Next, you have to dimple right through the underlying structures. Dimpling
and then c/s the underlying structures is not, to my mind acceptable...the
layers will just not lie down properly.
So, to sum up: c/s is preferable to dimpling on large structural areas,
unless you have access to a million bucks of heated dimpler.
C/sing MUST be done with the correct angle bit for the rivet head, and must
be done to the correct depth, and ensuring no chattering takes place.
Personally, I just cannot understand why anybody would want to do either on
our lovely, safe, slow flying series of STOL aircraft, except where we tell
you, for door fit, fairings etc.
I actually like the "built like a bridge" look of our aircraft with the dome
head rivets.
And ever tried drilling out a series of c/s rivets compared to dome? Just
compare the holes afterwards!
Regards,
Brian

Brian Godden
Murphy Aircraft Mfg. Ltd.
bgodden@murphyair.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Fogelin" <ericfo@whidbey.com>
To: <murtech@murphyair.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 7:37 AM
Subject: Flush riveting

I am at the point where I need to decide whether to flush rivet
the leading edge of my Elite wings. I ordered the flush rivet
option, but there were no instructions on how to proceed.

I have asked other builders of Super Rebels and Elites, most
aren't flush riveting, those that do use various techniques:

1) Some dimple skins, ribs and stringers
2) Some dimple skins, ribs and countersink stringers
3) When I was at the factory last year, it looked like the demo
SR leading edge skin was being entirely countersunk, no dimpling

What technique does the factory recommend?

I have a micro-stop countersink, and have experimented. Using
care, it seems that countersinking the skin and no dimpling
can be done...and this is very quick. But, won't this be a
weaker attachment than dimpling? Dimpling is a very slow
process with the dimple tool.

I understand that there will be little to no speed increase;
this is just for aesthetics.

Also, a question on dimpling. The manual always says to final
drill to #30 and then dimple (for areas that require dimpling).
Metal working references say to dimple first using an undersize
hole, then final drill. Should the manuals be changed or is it
okay to dimple after final drilling?

What did the factory do on the demo Elite and SR? What do you
recommend?

I'd like to post your response to the Rebel Builder's List. Lacking
current guidance, builders are having to solve this on their
own, some better than others.

Eric Fogelin
Elite #645

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Warren T. Montgomery

Flush riveting Leading Edge

Post by Warren T. Montgomery » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:56 pm

Wayne, Bobp

The point I was trying to make is that I'm comfortable with the
integrity of the SR wing with flush rivets.
My other planes MTOW is 300 tons and I can't even get a standby crew on
at 85kg if at Max.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Yes Warren, you are right that there is no real "proof" of engineering required to register even a plain Rebel at the 3968
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
I've used flush rivets And I'm not at all hesitant to register this airframe to the max of 3900lb that Transport Canada allows.
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Wayne G. O'Shea

Flush riveting Leading Edge

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:56 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 152 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 13:59:15 on 6 Jun 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Yes Warren, you are right that there is no real "proof" of engineering
required to register even a plain Rebel at the 3968 pound maximum gross
allowable for a homebuilt in Canada. You must meet the minimum horsepower
requirement based on the gross weight and wing span etc. though. This would
definitely not be a problem for a M14 powered SR as the 1650 lb gross Rebel
only requires about 66.6 horsepower. Gives more useful load without lying
about the empty weight like a lot of Rebels out there, so they are doing the
same thing but in reverse! However, you better watch the G forces as that 6
g's allowed is really only like 4 g's before the 150% yield (safety) factor
on a Certified aircraft! 968 pounds extra at even 4 g's is a LOT of extra
stress. Most say they never pull 4 g's, but I ran a squall line home on
Sunday for 2 and 1/2 hours and when we finally had to punch through it to
get home, I'm sure we pulled pretty damn close to that in "level" flight!!!

Formula is Pmin(BHP) = 0.016(Wgross lb) + ((C(constant .018 for mono wing) x
square of W (lb) to the 3rd over wing span (ft).))

For the SR3968 that would work out to a minimum of 188.46 HP. However, as
MAM only endorses the SR2500 for 3000 pounds gross, they can have Transport
Canada deny (or cancel) your registering the aircraft as a Murphy Product!
They can insist that it be registered as a "Monty Special", so make sure you
cover this item in advance on your paperwork.

Best Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Warren T. Montgomery <monty@emirates.net.ae>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: Flush riveting Leading Edge

Okay guys I'll add my two cents/pence/fils or what ever!

I've used flush rivets ---------
And I'm not at all hesitant to register this airframe to the max of 3900lb
that Transport Canada allows (Another loop hole for you Canadians that
don't know).
--
Warren T. Montgomery
<monty@emirates.net.ae>
Dubai, United Arab Emirates
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---------*


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Warren T. Montgomery

Flush riveting Leading Edge

Post by Warren T. Montgomery » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:56 pm

Okay guys I'll add my two cents/pence/fils or what ever!

I've used flush rivets on the entire Super rebel wing , Flaps and
Ailerons.
(excluding the fuel tank area) I've now completed the tail cone and will
use the same for fuselage fin and rudder. The stab and Elevator are
completed with mushroom rivets and every time I look at them I consider
the implications of de-riveting and dimpling. Still undecided!!

No it wasn't that much more time consuming once you got into the rhythm!
No I didn't CS the leading edge but rather dimpled the .032 skin. I did
use a modified (110 degrees) adjustable cs on the spar and stringers to
allow for dimpling of the skins. Yes, the end result is worth it!!!! And
I'm not at all hesitant to register this airframe to the max of 3900lb
that Transport Canada allows (Another loop hole for you Canadians that
don't know).
--
Warren T. Montgomery
<monty@emirates.net.ae>
Dubai, United Arab Emirates
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Jason Beall

flush riveting leading edge

Post by Jason Beall » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:47 pm

Hi all,

I'm opting for the flush leading edges on my SR. Yea,
I know, isn't going to make much of a difference to
drag but I don't want to get into that here!

My question revolves around installing the countersunk
rivets. The skins obviously have to be dimpled because
they are thin. The stringer material is relatively
thick and needs to be countersunk. However, to get the
dimple to sit in the countersink 'well' I have to
countersink almost all the way through the stringer.
Just seems too much. Any less and I cant get the
stringer to touch the underside of the skin surface.
Anyone else installed flush rivets and have any
thoughts?

Thanks,

-Jason

=====
________________________________________________

Jason Beall
Super Rebel No. 131
Aberdeen, Scotland, UK
super_rebel131@yahoo.com

__________________________________________________
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Jason Beall

flush riveting leading edge

Post by Jason Beall » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:47 pm

Had to resend...

Hi all,

I'm opting for the flush leading edges on my SR.
Yea,
I know, isn't going to make much of a difference to
drag but I don't want to get into that here!

My question revolves around installing the
countersunk
rivets. The skins obviously have to be dimpled
because
they are thin. The stringer material is relatively
thick and needs to be countersunk. However, to get
the
dimple to sit in the countersink 'well' I have to
countersink almost all the way through the stringer.
Just seems too much. Any less and I cant get the
stringer to touch the underside of the skin surface.
Anyone else installed flush rivets and have any
thoughts?

Thanks,

-Jason

=====
________________________________________________

Jason Beall
Super Rebel No. 131
Aberdeen, Scotland, UK
super_rebel131@yahoo.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
=====
________________________________________________

Jason Beall
Super Rebel No. 131
Aberdeen, Scotland, UK
super_rebel131@yahoo.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!
http://greetings.yahoo.com



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