[rebel-builders] V8 Cooling Problem

[BCairboat]

Mike you have a head gasket leak or a fracture in the cylinder walls. You
may not find coolant in the oil but check the exhaust for signs of it.
Grant




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[gleeso1]

Mike, is it possible that you have an airlock some where in the system? I
have seen that in vehicles before, also without the restriction of the themostat,
it sometimes happens that the water pump output exceeds the flow capacity
of the radiator, and builds up pressure quickly, dumping water out the over
flow through the cap.
FWIW
John Gleeson
Rebel 804 down under
'

-- Original Message --
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2006 12:18:23 -0800
From: Mike Kimball <mkimball@gci.net>
Subject: [rebel-builders] V8 Cooling Problem

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[Dave Ricker]

Mike

One of the things we learned as "gospel" when we were running small block Chevs
in race cars was to not run without a restrictor (or a thermostat) becaue the
water doesn't have time to cool as it passes through the rad unrestricted. This
was according to Smokey Yunick who apart from helping to develop the SBC had
plenty of success in professional racing. He recommended a diameter of about
11/16" for the restrictor.

He also had some definite views on the efficiency of the cooling system of the
SBC and via Moroso marketed a coolant re-routing system to make sure the coolant
ran evenly through both banks of the engine. He also felt that the water pump
could be turned too fast under some conditions losing pumping efficiency. He
said running the system at about 220F with up to a 25 lb cap would give the
highest output but this is for 2 HP/cu in kind of tuning. See "Smokey Yunick's
Power Circuits" ISBN 931472-06-7.

Another book I have says the same thing about the thermostat in performance
applications, basically if it was designed into the engine by GM then it's there
for a reason. I expect the reason for leaving it out is to remove one more item
that "could" fail but in all my time I've never seen it happen on the street or
track.

Where are you measuring the water temp? I presume you're sure it is measuring
water temp and not in an air pocket? Coming from the engine or going to it?

BTW we ran a standard copper 4 core GM double crossflow (over & back) rad like
yours and a "flex" fan. I'm guessing you have an aluminum 4 core rad and you
kept "good" airflow on it during the test?

OK, enough about the wet end of the system, what are you running for timing?
Fixed, variable, settings? I have definitely seen engines overheat with too
much timing and run badly because of retarded timing. The timing wants to be
tailored to the RPM and load as well.

OK, down off my soapbox, hope all this helps!

Cheers,

Dave







Mike Kimball wrote:

I know that I should probably be on a hot rod list for questions like this
but I also know there are people on this list that know about high
performance V8 engines. And it is on a Super Rebel after all. Anyway, when
I run the engine the temperature rises steadily over about a ten minute
period. The pressure starts rising about 5 minutes into the run. The
pressure continues to rise until reaching 16psi as the temp passes about
190-200 degrees and then my 16psi cap opens and coolant starts spewing out.
The temp continues to rise until I shut it down shortly thereafter. Any
idea why the pressure builds steadily and doesn't level off before reaching
16psi? I checked an auto supply manual at the local auto store and Chevy
350 equipped cars and trucks for decades have used 16psi caps or less except
for a rare 18psi application. There are only a couple of things different
about my installation versus a car/truck. My radiator is under the engine,
roughly horizontal. It's tilted about 30 degrees with the inlet and outlet
on the high side. I have no thermostat installed per Skip Jones' Chevy V8
aircraft conversion manual. The thermostat housing is taller than usual and
the cap mounts there.

Mike
044SR

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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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[Mike Kimball]

No coolant in the oil and no sign of coolant in the exhaust. $5,000 Rodeck
aluminum block with less than an hour of total run time, and running great
until it overheats - it better not have a crack! I agree that even my brand
new head gaskets with all bolts still showing proper torque could still be
leaking somewhere, somehow. But where? If nothing else works, I'll replace
the head gaskets. I've heard of the "trapped air" problem that John Gleeson
refers to. I've also heard of possible problems with no restriction to flow
with no thermostat. Testing the thermostat problem is easy enough but I
originally ran the engine with a thermostat and had similar problems then so
I don't think that is the problem. But I didn't have an electric fan
installed back then so who knows? I have no idea how to check for trapped
air or how to bleed it out if that is the problem. Take the cap off and
shake the hell out of the plane? It already got a bit of shaking being
towed from my house to the airport on it's own gear so I doubt that will
work.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Now, tell me the magic words to shout at
it to make it go away. The words I've been shouting haven't worked so far.

Mike
044SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
BCairboat@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 12:45 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] V8 Cooling Problem

Mike you have a head gasket leak or a fracture in the cylinder walls. You
may not find coolant in the oil but check the exhaust for signs of it.
Grant




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[Mike Betti]

I was always told the pressure comes from the expansion of coolant. As long
as the temp is rising so will the pressure. If pressure is coming with out
temp rise then maybe a head gasket. If you were to release the pressure when
the engine is at operating temp, then you will never build pressure until
the engine is allowed to cool and start all over. What if you pull the cap
on a hot engine and put a radiator pressure tester on it while it is running
and see if will build pressure on the gauge. Be careful, there is no relief
of pressure other than removing the tester.
As for removing the thermostat, I don't know the arrangement but is there a
bypass hose or passage that needs to be blocked. Coolant will take the
easiest path and could bypass the radiator in the process.
Mike Betti
771E

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Kimball" <mkimball@gci.net>
To: "Rebel Builder's List" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 3:18 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] V8 Cooling Problem

I know that I should probably be on a hot rod list for questions like this
but I also know there are people on this list that know about high
performance V8 engines. And it is on a Super Rebel after all. Anyway,
when
I run the engine the temperature rises steadily over about a ten minute
period. The pressure starts rising about 5 minutes into the run. The
pressure continues to rise until reaching 16psi as the temp passes about
190-200 degrees and then my 16psi cap opens and coolant starts spewing
out.
The temp continues to rise until I shut it down shortly thereafter. Any
idea why the pressure builds steadily and doesn't level off before
reaching
16psi? I checked an auto supply manual at the local auto store and Chevy
350 equipped cars and trucks for decades have used 16psi caps or less
except
for a rare 18psi application. There are only a couple of things different
about my installation versus a car/truck. My radiator is under the
engine,
roughly horizontal. It's tilted about 30 degrees with the inlet and
outlet
on the high side. I have no thermostat installed per Skip Jones' Chevy V8
aircraft conversion manual. The thermostat housing is taller than usual
and
the cap mounts there.

Mike
044SR




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[Mike Kimball]

Yeah, I have heard about needing a restrictor when removing the thermostat
from someone on this list a while back. My next run will be with the
thermostat back in place. Running without was a bit of an experiment. In
Skip Jones conversion book he suggests running without because a stuck
thermostat made him find a place to land real quick once. But I agree that
the odds of that happening are very low. I measure water temp in the
thermostat housing. I have a thermostatically controlled 16 inch fan on my
20"x20" Ron Davis custom radiator that produces 2500cfm of air movement (the
largest amount of air movement for any fan offered by Summit Racing). It's
supposed to turn on at 180 and off at 170 deg F. It operated as advertised.
I'm pretty sure my water pump is turning at the proper speed. I have
standard size pulleys and all my runs have been at 2000 rpm. I did have a
retarded timing problem on my initial runs that I saw right away with high
EGT. I advanced the timing until EGT settled at about 1300 deg F at 2000
rpm. I am running a full dual MSD ignition with a dual pickup distributor
using centrifugal advance. Thanks for your comments. I'll let you know
what happens when I run with the thermostat back in place. I've got a
couple of local engine builders meeting me this week as well. Hopefully,
we'll get this solved soon.

Mike
044SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Ricker
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 4:03 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] V8 Cooling Problem

Mike

One of the things we learned as "gospel" when we were running small block
Chevs
in race cars was to not run without a restrictor (or a thermostat) becaue
the
water doesn't have time to cool as it passes through the rad unrestricted.
This
was according to Smokey Yunick who apart from helping to develop the SBC had
plenty of success in professional racing. He recommended a diameter of
about
11/16" for the restrictor.

He also had some definite views on the efficiency of the cooling system of
the
SBC and via Moroso marketed a coolant re-routing system to make sure the
coolant
ran evenly through both banks of the engine. He also felt that the water
pump
could be turned too fast under some conditions losing pumping efficiency.
He
said running the system at about 220F with up to a 25 lb cap would give the
highest output but this is for 2 HP/cu in kind of tuning. See "Smokey
Yunick's
Power Circuits" ISBN 931472-06-7.

Another book I have says the same thing about the thermostat in performance
applications, basically if it was designed into the engine by GM then it's
there
for a reason. I expect the reason for leaving it out is to remove one more
item
that "could" fail but in all my time I've never seen it happen on the street
or
track.

Where are you measuring the water temp? I presume you're sure it is
measuring
water temp and not in an air pocket? Coming from the engine or going to it?

BTW we ran a standard copper 4 core GM double crossflow (over & back) rad
like
yours and a "flex" fan. I'm guessing you have an aluminum 4 core rad and
you
kept "good" airflow on it during the test?

OK, enough about the wet end of the system, what are you running for timing?
Fixed, variable, settings? I have definitely seen engines overheat with too
much timing and run badly because of retarded timing. The timing wants to
be
tailored to the RPM and load as well.

OK, down off my soapbox, hope all this helps!

Cheers,

Dave







Mike Kimball wrote:

I know that I should probably be on a hot rod list for questions like this
but I also know there are people on this list that know about high
performance V8 engines. And it is on a Super Rebel after all. Anyway,

when

I run the engine the temperature rises steadily over about a ten minute
period. The pressure starts rising about 5 minutes into the run. The
pressure continues to rise until reaching 16psi as the temp passes about
190-200 degrees and then my 16psi cap opens and coolant starts spewing

out.

The temp continues to rise until I shut it down shortly thereafter. Any
idea why the pressure builds steadily and doesn't level off before

reaching

16psi? I checked an auto supply manual at the local auto store and Chevy
350 equipped cars and trucks for decades have used 16psi caps or less

except

for a rare 18psi application. There are only a couple of things different
about my installation versus a car/truck. My radiator is under the

engine,

roughly horizontal. It's tilted about 30 degrees with the inlet and

outlet

on the high side. I have no thermostat installed per Skip Jones' Chevy V8
aircraft conversion manual. The thermostat housing is taller than usual

and

the cap mounts there.

Mike
044SR

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Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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[Ken]

Mike
The pressure is proportional to the temperature in my soob at all times.
If the temp is rising, the pressure is rising. It usually stabilizes in
the 10 to 12 psi range. I believe I'm running a 21 psi cap and I do have
a pint or more of air space under the cap. Could you just have
restricted water flow (trapped air?) or too little airflow. I
definately need a fan if running without the prop although the fan on my
large cabin heater will keep it cool at low rpm.. Easy things to try are
touch all parts of the rad (or use an infra red sensor gun) to insure
that all parts of it are hot and circulating. Could you have air in the
rad fighting the downflow of water? I also flow a 5/16" hose from the
high point coming out of the block to the fill tank to continuously vent
any vapour.
Ken

Mike Kimball wrote:

I know that I should probably be on a hot rod list for questions like this
but I also know there are people on this list that know about high
performance V8 engines. And it is on a Super Rebel after all. Anyway, when
I run the engine the temperature rises steadily over about a ten minute
period. The pressure starts rising about 5 minutes into the run. The
pressure continues to rise until reaching 16psi as the temp passes about
190-200 degrees and then my 16psi cap opens and coolant starts spewing out.
The temp continues to rise until I shut it down shortly thereafter. Any
idea why the pressure builds steadily and doesn't level off before reaching
16psi? I checked an auto supply manual at the local auto store and Chevy
350 equipped cars and trucks for decades have used 16psi caps or less except
for a rare 18psi application. There are only a couple of things different
about my installation versus a car/truck. My radiator is under the engine,
roughly horizontal. It's tilted about 30 degrees with the inlet and outlet
on the high side. I have no thermostat installed per Skip Jones' Chevy V8
aircraft conversion manual. The thermostat housing is taller than usual and
the cap mounts there.

Mike
044SR

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[Dave Ricker]

Mike

Looking at your reply and Mike Betti's a couple of other things come to mind.
First of all, I presume you have an expansion tank plumbed in there somewhere?
If not, the idea is that it will accept the liquid that expands as the coolant
heats. It would have some liquid in it to start but not full because it would
overflow for sure as the liquid in the engine expands. Normally in a car these
are attached to the rad at the high point of the rad so the first thing that
comes into the tank would be air but maybe it'd be better elsewhere on yours.
Overflowing at 190F sounds like this is a good place to look if you don't have
an expansion tank or if it's full to the top or somewhere below the top of the
water jacket.

If it's an aftermarket auto racing type like Moroso it would (probably) have the
rad cap on it and it will be above every part of the water jacket of the
engine. BTW if your rad cap is on the rad, below the engine then it's starting
with about 4 ft of water depth on it (about 2 PSI) so the 16 PSI cap isn't as
good as it looks, more like 14 PSI effective. There should not be a pressure
relief cap down on the rad. it should be up where the first thing that comes out
is steam not water.

The second thought was that if you were having leaky head gaskets you should be
able to find it by pressurizing the cylinders. I just did this for a friend who
was having problems with his Subaru (car) and a leaky exhaust valve was very
easy to locate. This only required about 30 psi but the leak was obvious
because you could hear the air escaape. You want to be very careful to bring
the piston to TDC & hold the prop very carefully to keep it there.

I doubt you have any head gasket or block problems with all you new good quality
parts, I'm guessing it's something to do with the water flow, expansion tank &
the amount of heat generated by the engine. BTW, Yunick talks abut 30% of the
heat content of the gas going to lost cooling heat.

Just a shot in the dark here, the Rodeck block, your cylinder heads and head
gaskets all have cooling (and oil gallery) holes correctly lined up, right? I
have heard that sometimes there are problems there and perhaps that could
contribute. Sometimes the holes may not be large enough.

How heavily are you loading the engine in these runs?

Anyhow, you've probably thought of all these things already but hopefully the
discussion will put you onto the solution.

Cheers,

Dave


Mike Kimball wrote:

No coolant in the oil and no sign of coolant in the exhaust. $5,000 Rodeck
aluminum block with less than an hour of total run time, and running great
until it overheats - it better not have a crack! I agree that even my brand
new head gaskets with all bolts still showing proper torque could still be
leaking somewhere, somehow. But where? If nothing else works, I'll replace
the head gaskets. I've heard of the "trapped air" problem that John Gleeson
refers to. I've also heard of possible problems with no restriction to flow
with no thermostat. Testing the thermostat problem is easy enough but I
originally ran the engine with a thermostat and had similar problems then so
I don't think that is the problem. But I didn't have an electric fan
installed back then so who knows? I have no idea how to check for trapped
air or how to bleed it out if that is the problem. Take the cap off and
shake the hell out of the plane? It already got a bit of shaking being
towed from my house to the airport on it's own gear so I doubt that will
work.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Now, tell me the magic words to shout at
it to make it go away. The words I've been shouting haven't worked so far.

Mike
044SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
BCairboat@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 12:45 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] V8 Cooling Problem

Mike you have a head gasket leak or a fracture in the cylinder walls. You
may not find coolant in the oil but check the exhaust for signs of it.
Grant

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[Ken]

I really like the thermostat in the soob so far. I do have a sensor in
the rad exit duct and I check that the temp is rising before takeoff to
confirm that the thermostat is opening.
Ken

Another book I have says the same thing about the thermostat in performance
applications, basically if it was designed into the engine by GM then it's there
for a reason. I expect the reason for leaving it out is to remove one more item
that "could" fail but in all my time I've never seen it happen on the street or
track.

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[Ken]

Mike Betti wrote:

I was always told the pressure comes from the expansion of coolant. As

long

as the temp is rising so will the pressure. If pressure is coming with

out

temp rise then maybe a head gasket. If you were to release the

pressure when

the engine is at operating temp, then you will never build pressure until
the engine is allowed to cool and start all over.

Makes sense but that has not been my experience. The pressure does seem
to build again
for me. (cars or the soob)
Ken

What if you pull the cap
on a hot engine and put a radiator pressure tester on it while it is

running

and see if will build pressure on the gauge. Be careful, there is no

relief

of pressure other than removing the tester.
As for removing the thermostat, I don't know the arrangement but is

there a

bypass hose or passage that needs to be blocked. Coolant will take the
easiest path and could bypass the radiator in the process.
Mike Betti
771E

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[Tom Anderson]

Mike - you can use a BMW-143 thermostat. It comes complete with housing for
~ $50 or so. Allows for engine proper circulation of coolant during warm up
and flight. That is if you need a t/stat. It sounds like your temps are
climbing too high. Try building a scoop that has an exit of about twice
your air inlet area. That way you'll get good air flow thru the radiator.
If you are not ducted the radiator is like an air dam and little air will
flow thru allowing proper heat exchange.
I have a turbo charged EA-81 Subaru on Kitfox and was always running hot
until the radiator was ducted for proper airflow. I can send pictures if
you like.
Tom Anderson
Rebel 295


-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Kimball
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 3:18 PM
To: Rebel Builder's List
Subject: [rebel-builders] V8 Cooling Problem

I know that I should probably be on a hot rod list for questions like this
but I also know there are people on this list that know about high
performance V8 engines. And it is on a Super Rebel after all. Anyway, when
I run the engine the temperature rises steadily over about a ten minute
period. The pressure starts rising about 5 minutes into the run. The
pressure continues to rise until reaching 16psi as the temp passes about
190-200 degrees and then my 16psi cap opens and coolant starts spewing out.
The temp continues to rise until I shut it down shortly thereafter. Any
idea why the pressure builds steadily and doesn't level off before reaching
16psi? I checked an auto supply manual at the local auto store and Chevy
350 equipped cars and trucks for decades have used 16psi caps or less except
for a rare 18psi application. There are only a couple of things different
about my installation versus a car/truck. My radiator is under the engine,
roughly horizontal. It's tilted about 30 degrees with the inlet and outlet
on the high side. I have no thermostat installed per Skip Jones' Chevy V8
aircraft conversion manual. The thermostat housing is taller than usual and
the cap mounts there.

Mike
044SR




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[eric.r]

I once chased the same symptoms you are describing in a Pontaic GTO ...
Brand new engine ... bad block casting! Stuff happens. Found it by checking
each individual water jacket until the dead end was discovered. A one in a
million shot, because I suspect air somewhere trapped in the system.
On 7/30/2006 4:57 PM, mkimball@gci.net wrote to rebel-builders:

-> Yeah, I have heard about needing a restrictor when removing the
thermostat
-> from someone on this list a while back. My next run will be with the
-> thermostat back in place. Running without was a bit of an experiment. In
-> Skip Jones conversion book he suggests running without because a stuck
-> thermostat made him find a place to land real quick once. But I agree that
-> the odds of that happening are very low. I measure water temp in the
-> thermostat housing. I have a thermostatically controlled 16 inch fan on my
-> 20"x20" Ron Davis custom radiator that produces 2500cfm of air movement
(the
-> largest amount of air movement for any fan offered by Summit Racing).
It's
-> supposed to turn on at 180 and off at 170 deg F. It operated as
advertised.
-> I'm pretty sure my water pump is turning at the proper speed. I have
-> standard size pulleys and all my runs have been at 2000 rpm. I did have a
-> retarded timing problem on my initial runs that I saw right away with high
-> EGT. I advanced the timing until EGT settled at about 1300 deg F at 2000
-> rpm. I am running a full dual MSD ignition with a dual pickup distributor
-> using centrifugal advance. Thanks for your comments. I'll let you know
-> what happens when I run with the thermostat back in place. I've got a
-> couple of local engine builders meeting me this week as well. Hopefully,
-> we'll get this solved soon.
->
-> Mike
-> 044SR
->
-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Dave
-> Ricker
-> Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 4:03 PM
-> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] V8 Cooling Problem
->
-> Mike
->
-> One of the things we learned as "gospel" when we were running small block
-> Chevs
-> in race cars was to not run without a restrictor (or a thermostat) becaue
-> the
-> water doesn't have time to cool as it passes through the rad unrestricted.
-> This
-> was according to Smokey Yunick who apart from helping to develop the
SBC had
-> plenty of success in professional racing. He recommended a diameter of
-> about
-> 11/16" for the restrictor.
->
-> He also had some definite views on the efficiency of the cooling system of
-> the
-> SBC and via Moroso marketed a coolant re-routing system to make sure
the
-> coolant
-> ran evenly through both banks of the engine. He also felt that the water
-> pump
-> could be turned too fast under some conditions losing pumping efficiency.
-> He
-> said running the system at about 220F with up to a 25 lb cap would give
the
-> highest output but this is for 2 HP/cu in kind of tuning. See "Smokey
-> Yunick's
-> Power Circuits" ISBN 931472-06-7.
->
-> Another book I have says the same thing about the thermostat in
performance
-> applications, basically if it was designed into the engine by GM then it's
-> there
-> for a reason. I expect the reason for leaving it out is to remove one more
-> item
-> that "could" fail but in all my time I've never seen it happen on the street
-> or
-> track.
->
-> Where are you measuring the water temp? I presume you're sure it is
-> measuring
-> water temp and not in an air pocket? Coming from the engine or going to
it?
->
-> BTW we ran a standard copper 4 core GM double crossflow (over & back)
rad
-> like
-> yours and a "flex" fan. I'm guessing you have an aluminum 4 core rad and
-> you
-> kept "good" airflow on it during the test?
->
-> OK, enough about the wet end of the system, what are you running for
timing?
-> Fixed, variable, settings? I have definitely seen engines overheat with too
-> much timing and run badly because of retarded timing. The timing wants
to
-> be
-> tailored to the RPM and load as well.
->
-> OK, down off my soapbox, hope all this helps!
->
-> Cheers,
->
-> Dave
->
->
->
->
->
->
->
-> Mike Kimball wrote:
->
-> > I know that I should probably be on a hot rod list for questions like this
-> > but I also know there are people on this list that know about high
-> > performance V8 engines. And it is on a Super Rebel after all. Anyway,
-> when
-> > I run the engine the temperature rises steadily over about a ten minute
-> > period. The pressure starts rising about 5 minutes into the run. The
-> > pressure continues to rise until reaching 16psi as the temp passes about
-> > 190-200 degrees and then my 16psi cap opens and coolant starts
spewing
-> out.
-> > The temp continues to rise until I shut it down shortly thereafter. Any
-> > idea why the pressure builds steadily and doesn't level off before
-> reaching
-> > 16psi? I checked an auto supply manual at the local auto store and
Chevy
-> > 350 equipped cars and trucks for decades have used 16psi caps or less
-> except
-> > for a rare 18psi application. There are only a couple of things different
-> > about my installation versus a car/truck. My radiator is under the
-> engine,
-> > roughly horizontal. It's tilted about 30 degrees with the inlet and
-> outlet
-> > on the high side. I have no thermostat installed per Skip Jones' Chevy
V8
-> > aircraft conversion manual. The thermostat housing is taller than usual
-> and
-> > the cap mounts there.
-> >
-> > Mike
-> > 044SR
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
->
-> --
-> David A. Ricker
-> Fall River, Nova Scotia
-> Canada
->
->
->
->
->
->
-> -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> username "rebel" password "builder"
-> Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> -----------------------------------------------------------------
->
->
->





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[Rick Johnson]

Where can I find any books or manuals on Chevy V8 aircraft conversions?

Thanks,

Rick
SR277

From: Mike Kimball <mkimball@gci.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: Rebel Builder's List <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: [rebel-builders] V8 Cooling Problem
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2006 12:18:23 -0800

I know that I should probably be on a hot rod list for questions like this
but I also know there are people on this list that know about high
performance V8 engines. And it is on a Super Rebel after all. Anyway,
when
I run the engine the temperature rises steadily over about a ten minute
period. The pressure starts rising about 5 minutes into the run. The
pressure continues to rise until reaching 16psi as the temp passes about
190-200 degrees and then my 16psi cap opens and coolant starts spewing out.
The temp continues to rise until I shut it down shortly thereafter. Any
idea why the pressure builds steadily and doesn't level off before reaching
16psi? I checked an auto supply manual at the local auto store and Chevy
350 equipped cars and trucks for decades have used 16psi caps or less
except
for a rare 18psi application. There are only a couple of things different
about my installation versus a car/truck. My radiator is under the engine,
roughly horizontal. It's tilted about 30 degrees with the inlet and outlet
on the high side. I have no thermostat installed per Skip Jones' Chevy V8
aircraft conversion manual. The thermostat housing is taller than usual
and
the cap mounts there.

Mike
044SR




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[Mike Kimball]

I have C. Hall "Skip" Jones, "Converting Auto Engines For Aircraft
Applications,". I also have a book that is a compilation of back issues of
Contact Magazine on the subject. I'll try to figure out how you can get
your own copies. It's been so long I can't remember how I laid my hands on
them.

I can get you started by pointing you to this Contact Magazine website:
http://www.contactmagazine.com/backissu.html

Mike
044SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Johnson
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 9:19 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] V8 Cooling Problem

Where can I find any books or manuals on Chevy V8 aircraft conversions?

Thanks,

Rick
SR277

From: Mike Kimball <mkimball@gci.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: Rebel Builder's List <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: [rebel-builders] V8 Cooling Problem
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2006 12:18:23 -0800

I know that I should probably be on a hot rod list for questions like this
but I also know there are people on this list that know about high
performance V8 engines. And it is on a Super Rebel after all. Anyway,
when
I run the engine the temperature rises steadily over about a ten minute
period. The pressure starts rising about 5 minutes into the run. The
pressure continues to rise until reaching 16psi as the temp passes about
190-200 degrees and then my 16psi cap opens and coolant starts spewing out.
The temp continues to rise until I shut it down shortly thereafter. Any
idea why the pressure builds steadily and doesn't level off before reaching
16psi? I checked an auto supply manual at the local auto store and Chevy
350 equipped cars and trucks for decades have used 16psi caps or less
except
for a rare 18psi application. There are only a couple of things different
about my installation versus a car/truck. My radiator is under the engine,
roughly horizontal. It's tilted about 30 degrees with the inlet and outlet
on the high side. I have no thermostat installed per Skip Jones' Chevy V8
aircraft conversion manual. The thermostat housing is taller than usual
and
the cap mounts there.

Mike
044SR




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[Rick Johnson]

Thanks Mike,

Rick
SR277

From: Mike Kimball <mkimball@gci.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] V8 Cooling Problem
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 10:18:48 -0800

I have C. Hall "Skip" Jones, "Converting Auto Engines For Aircraft
Applications,". I also have a book that is a compilation of back issues of
Contact Magazine on the subject. I'll try to figure out how you can get
your own copies. It's been so long I can't remember how I laid my hands on
them.

I can get you started by pointing you to this Contact Magazine website:
http://www.contactmagazine.com/backissu.html

Mike
044SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Johnson
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 9:19 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] V8 Cooling Problem

Where can I find any books or manuals on Chevy V8 aircraft conversions?

Thanks,

Rick
SR277

From: Mike Kimball <mkimball@gci.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: Rebel Builder's List <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: [rebel-builders] V8 Cooling Problem
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2006 12:18:23 -0800

I know that I should probably be on a hot rod list for questions like

this

but I also know there are people on this list that know about high
performance V8 engines. And it is on a Super Rebel after all. Anyway,
when
I run the engine the temperature rises steadily over about a ten minute
period. The pressure starts rising about 5 minutes into the run. The
pressure continues to rise until reaching 16psi as the temp passes about
190-200 degrees and then my 16psi cap opens and coolant starts spewing

out.

The temp continues to rise until I shut it down shortly thereafter. Any
idea why the pressure builds steadily and doesn't level off before

reaching

16psi? I checked an auto supply manual at the local auto store and Chevy
350 equipped cars and trucks for decades have used 16psi caps or less
except
for a rare 18psi application. There are only a couple of things

different

about my installation versus a car/truck. My radiator is under the

engine,

roughly horizontal. It's tilted about 30 degrees with the inlet and

outlet

on the high side. I have no thermostat installed per Skip Jones' Chevy

V8

aircraft conversion manual. The thermostat housing is taller than usual
and
the cap mounts there.

Mike
044SR




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