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[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

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Walter Klatt

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Walter Klatt » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

I just got back from my hangar to see where my leak is, and I found it. It
only happens when pumping in the wheels up position in my left rear main
wheel cylinder. It is coming out of the rod end, only in the up position but
is a pretty serious leak.

So how do I fix this? I did not build these amphibs (early pre-builts), so
don't what is inside the cylinders for O-rings or whatever. I notice the
four cylinder cap bolts are at this end, so am wondering if that cylinder
end can be removed without taking out the complete cylinder. I really want
to avoid that if I can, as it would mean taking off my wheels, and then
trying to get inside there to get at the back of the cylinder to undo that
connection. I think I could put up with the leak for the summer if that is
what it took.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 10:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

As I've said numerous times..... My floats for almost a year now and
Howard's old floats built in 1998 had no hydraulic leakage issues at all for
seven seasons. Howard's would sit all winter in the hangar and hold 100psi.
Mine constantly builds pressure itself and I always have to dump the
pressure by flipping the selector handle thru it's up/down cycle. When
sitting on my airlift at the lake I actually select gear down and pump the
gear about 6 strokes and then select gear up. When it builds pressure in the
sun/heat it then retracts the gear by itself instead of building pressure.

One thing I found with a couple I have worked on is the pressure will slowly
go down. Watch the pump handle (mark the piston rod location)...it will
slowly change position. What is happening is the pressure check valve is
leaking and the fluid is coming back into the pump and filling the piston
cavity while the inlet check valve does it's job. Found if the pump was left
in the fully filled position the system would not bleed down. If you are
trying to isolate things this may at least point you to which check valve is
leaking. Another way would be to put a ball valve in the pressure line and
inlet lines.

Drew...did you send the email about repair parts directly to Nancy?

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

At 11:25 AM 5/6/2006 -0400, you wrote:
Drew,

If you take the cyl. apart again, slide out the rod and see how many
o-rings seal the rod. If there is only one you might consider replacing
the
caps with the 2 o-ring caps from MAM. Not keeping pressure if it's small
might not be a bad thing as the plane sits in the hanger or hot sun.
Bruce G
Hi Bruce I emailed MAM to find out about replacement cylinders and parts
but haven't had a reply yet. Changing the caps is probably a good idea and
is something I'll check out. If it was a small leak I wouldn't worry about
it but what I have is a drop from 150psi to 0 in less than a minute on
just
this one cylinder there's some other small leaks either in the other
cylinders or the pump check valves that add up to losing all my pressure
in about 45 seconds. I'm not looking for perfect I just don't want to have
to keep pumping the whole time I'm landing, taking off or taxiing. Has
anyone considered installing a couple accumalators to help maintain
pressure and help prevent overpressurization.




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Wayne G. O'Shea

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

If it's leaking at the rod end only....and if you can get at it after
removing the clevis from the rod......small vice grips on the tie rods (they
have nuts at both ends Walter)..remove the nuts holding the caps on and
slide the end cap off. Have a really good look and see if the O -ring is
nicked or heavily worn. Run up the highway and get replacement parts direct
from the source and put it all back together. Don't want you polluting my
drinking water when you get here !!!! :O)

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:27 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I just got back from my hangar to see where my leak is, and I found it. It
only happens when pumping in the wheels up position in my left rear main
wheel cylinder. It is coming out of the rod end, only in the up position
but
is a pretty serious leak.

So how do I fix this? I did not build these amphibs (early pre-builts), so
don't what is inside the cylinders for O-rings or whatever. I notice the
four cylinder cap bolts are at this end, so am wondering if that cylinder
end can be removed without taking out the complete cylinder. I really want
to avoid that if I can, as it would mean taking off my wheels, and then
trying to get inside there to get at the back of the cylinder to undo that
connection. I think I could put up with the leak for the summer if that is
what it took.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 10:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

As I've said numerous times..... My floats for almost a year now and
Howard's old floats built in 1998 had no hydraulic leakage issues at all
for
seven seasons. Howard's would sit all winter in the hangar and hold
100psi.
Mine constantly builds pressure itself and I always have to dump the
pressure by flipping the selector handle thru it's up/down cycle. When
sitting on my airlift at the lake I actually select gear down and pump the
gear about 6 strokes and then select gear up. When it builds pressure in
the
sun/heat it then retracts the gear by itself instead of building pressure.

One thing I found with a couple I have worked on is the pressure will
slowly
go down. Watch the pump handle (mark the piston rod location)...it will
slowly change position. What is happening is the pressure check valve is
leaking and the fluid is coming back into the pump and filling the piston
cavity while the inlet check valve does it's job. Found if the pump was
left
in the fully filled position the system would not bleed down. If you are
trying to isolate things this may at least point you to which check valve
is
leaking. Another way would be to put a ball valve in the pressure line and
inlet lines.

Drew...did you send the email about repair parts directly to Nancy?

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

At 11:25 AM 5/6/2006 -0400, you wrote:
Drew,

If you take the cyl. apart again, slide out the rod and see how many
o-rings seal the rod. If there is only one you might consider replacing
the
caps with the 2 o-ring caps from MAM. Not keeping pressure if it's small
might not be a bad thing as the plane sits in the hanger or hot sun.
Bruce G
Hi Bruce I emailed MAM to find out about replacement cylinders and
parts
but haven't had a reply yet. Changing the caps is probably a good idea
and
is something I'll check out. If it was a small leak I wouldn't worry
about
it but what I have is a drop from 150psi to 0 in less than a minute on
just
this one cylinder there's some other small leaks either in the other
cylinders or the pump check valves that add up to losing all my
pressure
in about 45 seconds. I'm not looking for perfect I just don't want to
have
to keep pumping the whole time I'm landing, taking off or taxiing. Has
anyone considered installing a couple accumalators to help maintain
pressure and help prevent overpressurization.




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Walter Klatt

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Walter Klatt » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Yup, my paved hangar floor is a mess at that wheel, too, so I should really
try fix it.

If I just undo the nuts at the rod end of the cylinder (using vice grips on
the tie rods), how do I keep the rest of the cylinder from sliding down and
disturbing the seal on the other end, or will that not be a problem?

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 11:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

If it's leaking at the rod end only....and if you can get at it after
removing the clevis from the rod......small vice grips on the tie rods (they
have nuts at both ends Walter)..remove the nuts holding the caps on and
slide the end cap off. Have a really good look and see if the O -ring is
nicked or heavily worn. Run up the highway and get replacement parts direct
from the source and put it all back together. Don't want you polluting my
drinking water when you get here !!!! :O)

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:27 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I just got back from my hangar to see where my leak is, and I found it. It
only happens when pumping in the wheels up position in my left rear main
wheel cylinder. It is coming out of the rod end, only in the up position
but
is a pretty serious leak.

So how do I fix this? I did not build these amphibs (early pre-builts), so
don't what is inside the cylinders for O-rings or whatever. I notice the
four cylinder cap bolts are at this end, so am wondering if that cylinder
end can be removed without taking out the complete cylinder. I really want
to avoid that if I can, as it would mean taking off my wheels, and then
trying to get inside there to get at the back of the cylinder to undo that
connection. I think I could put up with the leak for the summer if that is
what it took.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 10:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

As I've said numerous times..... My floats for almost a year now and
Howard's old floats built in 1998 had no hydraulic leakage issues at all
for
seven seasons. Howard's would sit all winter in the hangar and hold
100psi.
Mine constantly builds pressure itself and I always have to dump the
pressure by flipping the selector handle thru it's up/down cycle. When
sitting on my airlift at the lake I actually select gear down and pump the
gear about 6 strokes and then select gear up. When it builds pressure in
the
sun/heat it then retracts the gear by itself instead of building pressure.

One thing I found with a couple I have worked on is the pressure will
slowly
go down. Watch the pump handle (mark the piston rod location)...it will
slowly change position. What is happening is the pressure check valve is
leaking and the fluid is coming back into the pump and filling the piston
cavity while the inlet check valve does it's job. Found if the pump was
left
in the fully filled position the system would not bleed down. If you are
trying to isolate things this may at least point you to which check valve
is
leaking. Another way would be to put a ball valve in the pressure line and
inlet lines.

Drew...did you send the email about repair parts directly to Nancy?

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

At 11:25 AM 5/6/2006 -0400, you wrote:
Drew,

If you take the cyl. apart again, slide out the rod and see how many
o-rings seal the rod. If there is only one you might consider replacing
the
caps with the 2 o-ring caps from MAM. Not keeping pressure if it's small
might not be a bad thing as the plane sits in the hanger or hot sun.
Bruce G
Hi Bruce I emailed MAM to find out about replacement cylinders and
parts
but haven't had a reply yet. Changing the caps is probably a good idea
and
is something I'll check out. If it was a small leak I wouldn't worry
about
it but what I have is a drop from 150psi to 0 in less than a minute on
just
this one cylinder there's some other small leaks either in the other
cylinders or the pump check valves that add up to losing all my
pressure
in about 45 seconds. I'm not looking for perfect I just don't want to
have
to keep pumping the whole time I'm landing, taking off or taxiing. Has
anyone considered installing a couple accumalators to help maintain
pressure and help prevent overpressurization.




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Wayne G. O'Shea

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

I'd think if you put your selector in neutral the piston won't move as the
line can't draw any air in to let the piston come down. Also with it in the
gear down postion there should be minimal fluid in the cylinder to pour all
over the place. I'd even be tempted to unhook the clevis and then give your
pump one stroke in the up postion to retact that cylinder slightly to be
sure the piston skirt is back from the edge so it does fall out....then dump
pressure...select neutral and take the cylinder apart. Stuff a rag in it
while your fix the cap/O-rings.

Now that I've said all that......I guess there is a possiblity of the
cylinder tube falling off the rear cap! Maybe a piece of heavy safety wire
hooped over the end cap and a hose clamp tightened around the tube with the
two ends of the wire under the clamp being pulled tight as up tighten the
clamp. This would be put on before starting to loosen the tie rods of
course.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:49 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Yup, my paved hangar floor is a mess at that wheel, too, so I should
really
try fix it.

If I just undo the nuts at the rod end of the cylinder (using vice grips
on
the tie rods), how do I keep the rest of the cylinder from sliding down
and
disturbing the seal on the other end, or will that not be a problem?

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 11:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

If it's leaking at the rod end only....and if you can get at it after
removing the clevis from the rod......small vice grips on the tie rods
(they
have nuts at both ends Walter)..remove the nuts holding the caps on and
slide the end cap off. Have a really good look and see if the O -ring is
nicked or heavily worn. Run up the highway and get replacement parts
direct
from the source and put it all back together. Don't want you polluting my
drinking water when you get here !!!! :O)

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:27 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I just got back from my hangar to see where my leak is, and I found it.
It
only happens when pumping in the wheels up position in my left rear main
wheel cylinder. It is coming out of the rod end, only in the up position
but
is a pretty serious leak.

So how do I fix this? I did not build these amphibs (early pre-builts),
so
don't what is inside the cylinders for O-rings or whatever. I notice the
four cylinder cap bolts are at this end, so am wondering if that
cylinder
end can be removed without taking out the complete cylinder. I really
want
to avoid that if I can, as it would mean taking off my wheels, and then
trying to get inside there to get at the back of the cylinder to undo
that
connection. I think I could put up with the leak for the summer if that
is
what it took.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 10:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

As I've said numerous times..... My floats for almost a year now and
Howard's old floats built in 1998 had no hydraulic leakage issues at all
for
seven seasons. Howard's would sit all winter in the hangar and hold
100psi.
Mine constantly builds pressure itself and I always have to dump the
pressure by flipping the selector handle thru it's up/down cycle. When
sitting on my airlift at the lake I actually select gear down and pump
the
gear about 6 strokes and then select gear up. When it builds pressure in
the
sun/heat it then retracts the gear by itself instead of building
pressure.
One thing I found with a couple I have worked on is the pressure will
slowly
go down. Watch the pump handle (mark the piston rod location)...it will
slowly change position. What is happening is the pressure check valve is
leaking and the fluid is coming back into the pump and filling the
piston
cavity while the inlet check valve does it's job. Found if the pump was
left
in the fully filled position the system would not bleed down. If you are
trying to isolate things this may at least point you to which check
valve
is
leaking. Another way would be to put a ball valve in the pressure line
and
inlet lines.

Drew...did you send the email about repair parts directly to Nancy?

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

At 11:25 AM 5/6/2006 -0400, you wrote: o-rings seal the rod. If there is only one you might consider
replacing
the
caps with the 2 o-ring caps from MAM. Not keeping pressure if it's
small
might not be a bad thing as the plane sits in the hanger or hot sun. Hi Bruce I emailed MAM to find out about replacement cylinders and
parts
but haven't had a reply yet. Changing the caps is probably a good idea
and
is something I'll check out. If it was a small leak I wouldn't worry
about
it but what I have is a drop from 150psi to 0 in less than a minute on
just
this one cylinder there's some other small leaks either in the other
cylinders or the pump check valves that add up to losing all my
pressure
in about 45 seconds. I'm not looking for perfect I just don't want to
have
to keep pumping the whole time I'm landing, taking off or taxiing. Has
anyone considered installing a couple accumalators to help maintain
pressure and help prevent overpressurization.




-----------------------------------------------------------------
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Walter Klatt

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Walter Klatt » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Yes, it is the cylinder tube falling down that I'm concerned about. I think
I can work with the hose clamp idea, though. Thanks, and will give it a try.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 12:03 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I'd think if you put your selector in neutral the piston won't move as the
line can't draw any air in to let the piston come down. Also with it in the
gear down postion there should be minimal fluid in the cylinder to pour all
over the place. I'd even be tempted to unhook the clevis and then give your
pump one stroke in the up postion to retact that cylinder slightly to be
sure the piston skirt is back from the edge so it does fall out....then dump
pressure...select neutral and take the cylinder apart. Stuff a rag in it
while your fix the cap/O-rings.

Now that I've said all that......I guess there is a possiblity of the
cylinder tube falling off the rear cap! Maybe a piece of heavy safety wire
hooped over the end cap and a hose clamp tightened around the tube with the
two ends of the wire under the clamp being pulled tight as up tighten the
clamp. This would be put on before starting to loosen the tie rods of
course.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:49 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Yup, my paved hangar floor is a mess at that wheel, too, so I should
really
try fix it.

If I just undo the nuts at the rod end of the cylinder (using vice grips
on
the tie rods), how do I keep the rest of the cylinder from sliding down
and
disturbing the seal on the other end, or will that not be a problem?

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 11:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

If it's leaking at the rod end only....and if you can get at it after
removing the clevis from the rod......small vice grips on the tie rods
(they
have nuts at both ends Walter)..remove the nuts holding the caps on and
slide the end cap off. Have a really good look and see if the O -ring is
nicked or heavily worn. Run up the highway and get replacement parts
direct
from the source and put it all back together. Don't want you polluting my
drinking water when you get here !!!! :O)

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:27 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I just got back from my hangar to see where my leak is, and I found it.
It
only happens when pumping in the wheels up position in my left rear main
wheel cylinder. It is coming out of the rod end, only in the up position
but
is a pretty serious leak.

So how do I fix this? I did not build these amphibs (early pre-builts),
so
don't what is inside the cylinders for O-rings or whatever. I notice the
four cylinder cap bolts are at this end, so am wondering if that
cylinder
end can be removed without taking out the complete cylinder. I really
want
to avoid that if I can, as it would mean taking off my wheels, and then
trying to get inside there to get at the back of the cylinder to undo
that
connection. I think I could put up with the leak for the summer if that
is
what it took.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 10:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

As I've said numerous times..... My floats for almost a year now and
Howard's old floats built in 1998 had no hydraulic leakage issues at all
for
seven seasons. Howard's would sit all winter in the hangar and hold
100psi.
Mine constantly builds pressure itself and I always have to dump the
pressure by flipping the selector handle thru it's up/down cycle. When
sitting on my airlift at the lake I actually select gear down and pump
the
gear about 6 strokes and then select gear up. When it builds pressure in
the
sun/heat it then retracts the gear by itself instead of building
pressure.
One thing I found with a couple I have worked on is the pressure will
slowly
go down. Watch the pump handle (mark the piston rod location)...it will
slowly change position. What is happening is the pressure check valve is
leaking and the fluid is coming back into the pump and filling the
piston
cavity while the inlet check valve does it's job. Found if the pump was
left
in the fully filled position the system would not bleed down. If you are
trying to isolate things this may at least point you to which check
valve
is
leaking. Another way would be to put a ball valve in the pressure line
and
inlet lines.

Drew...did you send the email about repair parts directly to Nancy?

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

At 11:25 AM 5/6/2006 -0400, you wrote: o-rings seal the rod. If there is only one you might consider
replacing
the
caps with the 2 o-ring caps from MAM. Not keeping pressure if it's
small
might not be a bad thing as the plane sits in the hanger or hot sun. Hi Bruce I emailed MAM to find out about replacement cylinders and
parts
but haven't had a reply yet. Changing the caps is probably a good idea
and
is something I'll check out. If it was a small leak I wouldn't worry
about
it but what I have is a drop from 150psi to 0 in less than a minute on
just
this one cylinder there's some other small leaks either in the other
cylinders or the pump check valves that add up to losing all my
pressure
in about 45 seconds. I'm not looking for perfect I just don't want to
have
to keep pumping the whole time I'm landing, taking off or taxiing. Has
anyone considered installing a couple accumalators to help maintain
pressure and help prevent overpressurization.




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Top
Bruce Georgen

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Bruce Georgen » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Walter,

Just take the wheels off, you wanted to check your bearings anyway and it would make the cyl fix easier to put it on your bench and take it apart to replace all the o rings while your at it.

Bruce G


-----Original Message-----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: May 6, 2006 3:03 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I'd think if you put your selector in neutral the piston won't move as the
line can't draw any air in to let the piston come down. Also with it in the
gear down postion there should be minimal fluid in the cylinder to pour all
over the place. I'd even be tempted to unhook the clevis and then give your
pump one stroke in the up postion to retact that cylinder slightly to be
sure the piston skirt is back from the edge so it does fall out....then dump
pressure...select neutral and take the cylinder apart. Stuff a rag in it
while your fix the cap/O-rings.

Now that I've said all that......I guess there is a possiblity of the
cylinder tube falling off the rear cap! Maybe a piece of heavy safety wire
hooped over the end cap and a hose clamp tightened around the tube with the
two ends of the wire under the clamp being pulled tight as up tighten the
clamp. This would be put on before starting to loosen the tie rods of
course.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:49 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Yup, my paved hangar floor is a mess at that wheel, too, so I should
really
try fix it.

If I just undo the nuts at the rod end of the cylinder (using vice grips
on
the tie rods), how do I keep the rest of the cylinder from sliding down
and
disturbing the seal on the other end, or will that not be a problem?

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 11:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

If it's leaking at the rod end only....and if you can get at it after
removing the clevis from the rod......small vice grips on the tie rods
(they
have nuts at both ends Walter)..remove the nuts holding the caps on and
slide the end cap off. Have a really good look and see if the O -ring is
nicked or heavily worn. Run up the highway and get replacement parts
direct
from the source and put it all back together. Don't want you polluting my
drinking water when you get here !!!! :O)

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:27 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I just got back from my hangar to see where my leak is, and I found it.
It
only happens when pumping in the wheels up position in my left rear main
wheel cylinder. It is coming out of the rod end, only in the up position
but
is a pretty serious leak.

So how do I fix this? I did not build these amphibs (early pre-builts),
so
don't what is inside the cylinders for O-rings or whatever. I notice the
four cylinder cap bolts are at this end, so am wondering if that
cylinder
end can be removed without taking out the complete cylinder. I really
want
to avoid that if I can, as it would mean taking off my wheels, and then
trying to get inside there to get at the back of the cylinder to undo
that
connection. I think I could put up with the leak for the summer if that
is
what it took.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 10:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

As I've said numerous times..... My floats for almost a year now and
Howard's old floats built in 1998 had no hydraulic leakage issues at all
for
seven seasons. Howard's would sit all winter in the hangar and hold
100psi.
Mine constantly builds pressure itself and I always have to dump the
pressure by flipping the selector handle thru it's up/down cycle. When
sitting on my airlift at the lake I actually select gear down and pump
the
gear about 6 strokes and then select gear up. When it builds pressure in
the
sun/heat it then retracts the gear by itself instead of building
pressure.
One thing I found with a couple I have worked on is the pressure will
slowly
go down. Watch the pump handle (mark the piston rod location)...it will
slowly change position. What is happening is the pressure check valve is
leaking and the fluid is coming back into the pump and filling the
piston
cavity while the inlet check valve does it's job. Found if the pump was
left
in the fully filled position the system would not bleed down. If you are
trying to isolate things this may at least point you to which check
valve
is
leaking. Another way would be to put a ball valve in the pressure line
and
inlet lines.

Drew...did you send the email about repair parts directly to Nancy?

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

replacing
the
small
parts
and
about
just
pressure
have




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Top
Walter Klatt

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Walter Klatt » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

We'll see, I might just do that. I was hoping for a quick fix and do some
more flying this weekend, but the weather is wet today, and tomorrow is not
looking good either. I was planning to take my floats off this winter for a
thorough check, and the timing obviously would have been good, but never got
around to it, so will have to do it next winter, maybe. Am trying to avoid
any down time this time of year.

But even with the wheels off, not sure if those small cut out wheel well
holes would allow me much room, especially trying to work upside down.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
Georgen
Sent: May 6, 2006 12:21 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs


Walter,

Just take the wheels off, you wanted to check your bearings anyway and it
would make the cyl fix easier to put it on your bench and take it apart to
replace all the o rings while your at it.

Bruce G


-----Original Message-----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: May 6, 2006 3:03 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I'd think if you put your selector in neutral the piston won't move as the
line can't draw any air in to let the piston come down. Also with it in the
gear down postion there should be minimal fluid in the cylinder to pour all
over the place. I'd even be tempted to unhook the clevis and then give your
pump one stroke in the up postion to retact that cylinder slightly to be
sure the piston skirt is back from the edge so it does fall out....then
dump
pressure...select neutral and take the cylinder apart. Stuff a rag in it
while your fix the cap/O-rings.

Now that I've said all that......I guess there is a possiblity of the
cylinder tube falling off the rear cap! Maybe a piece of heavy safety wire
hooped over the end cap and a hose clamp tightened around the tube with the
two ends of the wire under the clamp being pulled tight as up tighten the
clamp. This would be put on before starting to loosen the tie rods of
course.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:49 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Yup, my paved hangar floor is a mess at that wheel, too, so I should
really
try fix it.

If I just undo the nuts at the rod end of the cylinder (using vice grips
on
the tie rods), how do I keep the rest of the cylinder from sliding down
and
disturbing the seal on the other end, or will that not be a problem?

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 11:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

If it's leaking at the rod end only....and if you can get at it after
removing the clevis from the rod......small vice grips on the tie rods
(they
have nuts at both ends Walter)..remove the nuts holding the caps on and
slide the end cap off. Have a really good look and see if the O -ring is
nicked or heavily worn. Run up the highway and get replacement parts
direct
from the source and put it all back together. Don't want you polluting my
drinking water when you get here !!!! :O)

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:27 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I just got back from my hangar to see where my leak is, and I found it.
It
only happens when pumping in the wheels up position in my left rear
main
wheel cylinder. It is coming out of the rod end, only in the up
position
but
is a pretty serious leak.

So how do I fix this? I did not build these amphibs (early pre-builts),
so
don't what is inside the cylinders for O-rings or whatever. I notice
the
four cylinder cap bolts are at this end, so am wondering if that
cylinder
end can be removed without taking out the complete cylinder. I really
want
to avoid that if I can, as it would mean taking off my wheels, and then
trying to get inside there to get at the back of the cylinder to undo
that
connection. I think I could put up with the leak for the summer if that
is
what it took.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 10:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

As I've said numerous times..... My floats for almost a year now and
Howard's old floats built in 1998 had no hydraulic leakage issues at
all
for
seven seasons. Howard's would sit all winter in the hangar and hold
100psi.
Mine constantly builds pressure itself and I always have to dump the
pressure by flipping the selector handle thru it's up/down cycle. When
sitting on my airlift at the lake I actually select gear down and pump
the
gear about 6 strokes and then select gear up. When it builds pressure
in
the
sun/heat it then retracts the gear by itself instead of building
pressure.
One thing I found with a couple I have worked on is the pressure will
slowly
go down. Watch the pump handle (mark the piston rod location)...it will
slowly change position. What is happening is the pressure check valve
is
leaking and the fluid is coming back into the pump and filling the
piston
cavity while the inlet check valve does it's job. Found if the pump was
left
in the fully filled position the system would not bleed down. If you
are
trying to isolate things this may at least point you to which check
valve
is
leaking. Another way would be to put a ball valve in the pressure line
and
inlet lines.

Drew...did you send the email about repair parts directly to Nancy?

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

replacing
the
small
parts
idea
and
about
on
just
pressure
have
Has




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A better way to Internet
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Top
Ken

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Ken » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Not an accumulator but I am planning to install a pressure relief valve.
Ken

snip
Has
anyone considered installing a couple accumalators to help maintain
pressure and help prevent overpressurization.




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Wayne G. O'Shea

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Good idea Ken...right in the pump pressure to selector line....bleeding back
to the pump inlet line. 200psi probably a good number. Most MAM 1800's seem
to cycle well at 100 to 150psi. 50 psi above that would allow for any sticky
gear movement without popping the relief valve.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Not an accumulator but I am planning to install a pressure relief valve.
Ken

snip
Has
anyone considered installing a couple accumalators to help maintain
pressure and help prevent overpressurization.




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Drew Dalgleish

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Drew Dalgleish » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Drew...did you send the email about repair parts directly to Nancy?

Wayne
Yup emailed her early friday and asked the same question about floats to
Stefan on Thursday.




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Drew Dalgleish

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Drew Dalgleish » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

At 11:49 AM 5/6/2006 -0700, you wrote:
Yup, my paved hangar floor is a mess at that wheel, too, so I should really
try fix it.

If I just undo the nuts at the rod end of the cylinder (using vice grips on
the tie rods), how do I keep the rest of the cylinder from sliding down and
disturbing the seal on the other end, or will that not be a problem?

Walter
Hi Walter I think it's probably easiest to just take the whole cylinder out
and take it apart on the bench. That way you can tip it back and forth to
get most of the oil out before you take it apart. Also I found on mine that
the o-rings on the end caps for the cylinders were mangled and needed to be
replaced as well. Wayne's suggestion might work but the groove in the end
cap isn't very deep and I think it would probably fall apart on you.




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Bruce Georgen

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Bruce Georgen » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Walter,

I took my mains off to tap the axles for grease zerks and it wasn't that difficult. Check the c clamps while your at it. I had to sand alum off the c clamp to keep the axle from rotating. You can check yours by making a mark on the axle and see if it moves after a few landings.

Bruce G
----Original Message-----
From: Walter Klatt <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
Sent: May 6, 2006 3:35 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

We'll see, I might just do that. I was hoping for a quick fix and do some
more flying this weekend, but the weather is wet today, and tomorrow is not
looking good either. I was planning to take my floats off this winter for a
thorough check, and the timing obviously would have been good, but never got
around to it, so will have to do it next winter, maybe. Am trying to avoid
any down time this time of year.

But even with the wheels off, not sure if those small cut out wheel well
holes would allow me much room, especially trying to work upside down.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
Georgen
Sent: May 6, 2006 12:21 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs


Walter,

Just take the wheels off, you wanted to check your bearings anyway and it
would make the cyl fix easier to put it on your bench and take it apart to
replace all the o rings while your at it.

Bruce G


-----Original Message-----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: May 6, 2006 3:03 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I'd think if you put your selector in neutral the piston won't move as the
line can't draw any air in to let the piston come down. Also with it in the
gear down postion there should be minimal fluid in the cylinder to pour all
over the place. I'd even be tempted to unhook the clevis and then give your
pump one stroke in the up postion to retact that cylinder slightly to be
sure the piston skirt is back from the edge so it does fall out....then
dump
pressure...select neutral and take the cylinder apart. Stuff a rag in it
while your fix the cap/O-rings.

Now that I've said all that......I guess there is a possiblity of the
cylinder tube falling off the rear cap! Maybe a piece of heavy safety wire
hooped over the end cap and a hose clamp tightened around the tube with the
two ends of the wire under the clamp being pulled tight as up tighten the
clamp. This would be put on before starting to loosen the tie rods of
course.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:49 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Yup, my paved hangar floor is a mess at that wheel, too, so I should
really
try fix it.

If I just undo the nuts at the rod end of the cylinder (using vice grips
on
the tie rods), how do I keep the rest of the cylinder from sliding down
and
disturbing the seal on the other end, or will that not be a problem?

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 11:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

If it's leaking at the rod end only....and if you can get at it after
removing the clevis from the rod......small vice grips on the tie rods
(they
have nuts at both ends Walter)..remove the nuts holding the caps on and
slide the end cap off. Have a really good look and see if the O -ring is
nicked or heavily worn. Run up the highway and get replacement parts
direct
from the source and put it all back together. Don't want you polluting my
drinking water when you get here !!!! :O)

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:27 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

It
main
position
but
so
the
cylinder
want
that
is
Wayne
all
for 100psi.
the
in
the
pressure.
slowly
is
piston
left
are
valve
is
and
replacing
small
parts
idea
and about
on
pressure have
Has




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Top
Walter Klatt

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Walter Klatt » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

I've had my wheels apart, too, for the grease fittings, but haven't noticed
axles turning, but can try what you suggest to be sure.

Yesterday I took the cylinder apart with the rear end still attached.
However, was not able to keep the cylinder tube attached, so took it off as
well. I had a further complication with the hydraulic hose attached to the
front end cap making it difficult to get the piston rod out, but eventually
got it. Then it was no easy job picking out that O-ring from that cap while
inside the wheel well either.

I got some replacement O-rings from Julius (his home parts warehouse must be
almost as big as Wayne's), and changed the big piston O-rings (they still
looked OK) and the little one in the front end cap for the piston rod.
Getting that little one into the end cap working through the float cap hole
was even harder than getting the old one out. I also have the thin ones for
the end caps, but am going to try and go with the old ones because of the
difficulty getting in there. I noted what Drew said, so will be watching for
leaks.

So, today will put it all together, and see if my fix works. If not, I guess
will have to take the wheels off and try again. At least the weather is
still crappy, so not missing any flying.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
Georgen
Sent: May 6, 2006 8:15 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs


Walter,

I took my mains off to tap the axles for grease zerks and it wasn't that
difficult. Check the c clamps while your at it. I had to sand alum off the c
clamp to keep the axle from rotating. You can check yours by making a mark
on the axle and see if it moves after a few landings.

Bruce G
----Original Message-----
From: Walter Klatt <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
Sent: May 6, 2006 3:35 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

We'll see, I might just do that. I was hoping for a quick fix and do some
more flying this weekend, but the weather is wet today, and tomorrow is not
looking good either. I was planning to take my floats off this winter for a
thorough check, and the timing obviously would have been good, but never
got
around to it, so will have to do it next winter, maybe. Am trying to avoid
any down time this time of year.

But even with the wheels off, not sure if those small cut out wheel well
holes would allow me much room, especially trying to work upside down.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
Georgen
Sent: May 6, 2006 12:21 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs


Walter,

Just take the wheels off, you wanted to check your bearings anyway and it
would make the cyl fix easier to put it on your bench and take it apart to
replace all the o rings while your at it.

Bruce G


-----Original Message-----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: May 6, 2006 3:03 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I'd think if you put your selector in neutral the piston won't move as the
line can't draw any air in to let the piston come down. Also with it in
the
gear down postion there should be minimal fluid in the cylinder to pour
all
over the place. I'd even be tempted to unhook the clevis and then give
your
pump one stroke in the up postion to retact that cylinder slightly to be
sure the piston skirt is back from the edge so it does fall out....then
dump
pressure...select neutral and take the cylinder apart. Stuff a rag in it
while your fix the cap/O-rings.

Now that I've said all that......I guess there is a possiblity of the
cylinder tube falling off the rear cap! Maybe a piece of heavy safety wire
hooped over the end cap and a hose clamp tightened around the tube with
the
two ends of the wire under the clamp being pulled tight as up tighten the
clamp. This would be put on before starting to loosen the tie rods of
course.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:49 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Yup, my paved hangar floor is a mess at that wheel, too, so I should
really
try fix it.

If I just undo the nuts at the rod end of the cylinder (using vice grips
on
the tie rods), how do I keep the rest of the cylinder from sliding down
and
disturbing the seal on the other end, or will that not be a problem?

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 11:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

If it's leaking at the rod end only....and if you can get at it after
removing the clevis from the rod......small vice grips on the tie rods
(they
have nuts at both ends Walter)..remove the nuts holding the caps on and
slide the end cap off. Have a really good look and see if the O -ring is
nicked or heavily worn. Run up the highway and get replacement parts
direct
from the source and put it all back together. Don't want you polluting
my
drinking water when you get here !!!! :O)

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:27 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

it.
It
main
position
but
pre-builts),
so
the
cylinder
want
then
that
that
is
Wayne
all
for 100psi.
the
in
the
pressure.
slowly
will
is
piston
was
left
are
valve
is
and
many
replacing
small
parts
idea
and about
on
pressure
to
have
Has




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Top
Bruce Georgen

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Bruce Georgen » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Walter,

It's the front end cap that now have two small o rings (like the piston) instead of one... if you buy the whole cap new. This is where my cyl. have leaked as the rod moved in and out. I suspect this is why they changed the design. I reused the rear end cap o rings because I didn't have replacements but they worked fine with no leaks.

I suspect it might have been easier to just remove the whole wheel to get to the cyl. and check the bearings/brakes and everything else, for piece of mind, while you have it apart.

I suggest checking the axles for rotation in the c clamp with a mark. Both my axles where rotating even with the bolts/nuts over torqued. I had to sand down the c clamp on a disc sander so it would grab the axle correctly.

Bruce G





-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Klatt <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
Sent: May 7, 2006 9:41 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I've had my wheels apart, too, for the grease fittings, but haven't noticed
axles turning, but can try what you suggest to be sure.

Yesterday I took the cylinder apart with the rear end still attached.
However, was not able to keep the cylinder tube attached, so took it off as
well. I had a further complication with the hydraulic hose attached to the
front end cap making it difficult to get the piston rod out, but eventually
got it. Then it was no easy job picking out that O-ring from that cap while
inside the wheel well either.

I got some replacement O-rings from Julius (his home parts warehouse must be
almost as big as Wayne's), and changed the big piston O-rings (they still
looked OK) and the little one in the front end cap for the piston rod.
Getting that little one into the end cap working through the float cap hole
was even harder than getting the old one out. I also have the thin ones for
the end caps, but am going to try and go with the old ones because of the
difficulty getting in there. I noted what Drew said, so will be watching for
leaks.

So, today will put it all together, and see if my fix works. If not, I guess
will have to take the wheels off and try again. At least the weather is
still crappy, so not missing any flying.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
Georgen
Sent: May 6, 2006 8:15 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs


Walter,

I took my mains off to tap the axles for grease zerks and it wasn't that
difficult. Check the c clamps while your at it. I had to sand alum off the c
clamp to keep the axle from rotating. You can check yours by making a mark
on the axle and see if it moves after a few landings.

Bruce G
----Original Message-----
From: Walter Klatt <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
Sent: May 6, 2006 3:35 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

We'll see, I might just do that. I was hoping for a quick fix and do some
more flying this weekend, but the weather is wet today, and tomorrow is not
looking good either. I was planning to take my floats off this winter for a
thorough check, and the timing obviously would have been good, but never
got
around to it, so will have to do it next winter, maybe. Am trying to avoid
any down time this time of year.

But even with the wheels off, not sure if those small cut out wheel well
holes would allow me much room, especially trying to work upside down.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
Georgen
Sent: May 6, 2006 12:21 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs


Walter,

Just take the wheels off, you wanted to check your bearings anyway and it
would make the cyl fix easier to put it on your bench and take it apart to
replace all the o rings while your at it.

Bruce G


-----Original Message-----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: May 6, 2006 3:03 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I'd think if you put your selector in neutral the piston won't move as the
line can't draw any air in to let the piston come down. Also with it in
the
gear down postion there should be minimal fluid in the cylinder to pour
all
over the place. I'd even be tempted to unhook the clevis and then give
your
pump one stroke in the up postion to retact that cylinder slightly to be
sure the piston skirt is back from the edge so it does fall out....then
dump
pressure...select neutral and take the cylinder apart. Stuff a rag in it
while your fix the cap/O-rings.

Now that I've said all that......I guess there is a possiblity of the
cylinder tube falling off the rear cap! Maybe a piece of heavy safety wire
hooped over the end cap and a hose clamp tightened around the tube with
the
two ends of the wire under the clamp being pulled tight as up tighten the
clamp. This would be put on before starting to loosen the tie rods of
course.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:49 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

really on and Wayne (they direct
my
it.
It
main
position
pre-builts),
so
the
cylinder want
then
that
that
is
all
the
in
pressure.
will
is
piston
was
are
valve and
many
replacing small
idea
on
to
Has




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Walter Klatt

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Walter Klatt » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Mine only has a single O-ring there, so I guess that explains it. Like I've
said before, one of these winters, I want to take the floats right off for a
full inspection, but hopefully this fix will get me by for another summer.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
Georgen
Sent: May 7, 2006 7:34 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Walter,

It's the front end cap that now have two small o rings (like the piston)
instead of one... if you buy the whole cap new. This is where my cyl. have
leaked as the rod moved in and out. I suspect this is why they changed the
design. I reused the rear end cap o rings because I didn't have replacements
but they worked fine with no leaks.

I suspect it might have been easier to just remove the whole wheel to get to
the cyl. and check the bearings/brakes and everything else, for piece of
mind, while you have it apart.

I suggest checking the axles for rotation in the c clamp with a mark. Both
my axles where rotating even with the bolts/nuts over torqued. I had to sand
down the c clamp on a disc sander so it would grab the axle correctly.

Bruce G





-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Klatt <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
Sent: May 7, 2006 9:41 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I've had my wheels apart, too, for the grease fittings, but haven't noticed
axles turning, but can try what you suggest to be sure.

Yesterday I took the cylinder apart with the rear end still attached.
However, was not able to keep the cylinder tube attached, so took it off as
well. I had a further complication with the hydraulic hose attached to the
front end cap making it difficult to get the piston rod out, but eventually
got it. Then it was no easy job picking out that O-ring from that cap while
inside the wheel well either.

I got some replacement O-rings from Julius (his home parts warehouse must
be
almost as big as Wayne's), and changed the big piston O-rings (they still
looked OK) and the little one in the front end cap for the piston rod.
Getting that little one into the end cap working through the float cap hole
was even harder than getting the old one out. I also have the thin ones for
the end caps, but am going to try and go with the old ones because of the
difficulty getting in there. I noted what Drew said, so will be watching
for
leaks.

So, today will put it all together, and see if my fix works. If not, I
guess
will have to take the wheels off and try again. At least the weather is
still crappy, so not missing any flying.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
Georgen
Sent: May 6, 2006 8:15 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs


Walter,

I took my mains off to tap the axles for grease zerks and it wasn't that
difficult. Check the c clamps while your at it. I had to sand alum off the
c
clamp to keep the axle from rotating. You can check yours by making a mark
on the axle and see if it moves after a few landings.

Bruce G
----Original Message-----
From: Walter Klatt <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
Sent: May 6, 2006 3:35 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

We'll see, I might just do that. I was hoping for a quick fix and do some
more flying this weekend, but the weather is wet today, and tomorrow is
not
looking good either. I was planning to take my floats off this winter for
a
thorough check, and the timing obviously would have been good, but never
got
around to it, so will have to do it next winter, maybe. Am trying to avoid
any down time this time of year.

But even with the wheels off, not sure if those small cut out wheel well
holes would allow me much room, especially trying to work upside down.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Bruce
Georgen
Sent: May 6, 2006 12:21 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs


Walter,

Just take the wheels off, you wanted to check your bearings anyway and it
would make the cyl fix easier to put it on your bench and take it apart to
replace all the o rings while your at it.

Bruce G


-----Original Message-----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: May 6, 2006 3:03 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I'd think if you put your selector in neutral the piston won't move as
the
line can't draw any air in to let the piston come down. Also with it in
the
gear down postion there should be minimal fluid in the cylinder to pour
all
over the place. I'd even be tempted to unhook the clevis and then give
your
pump one stroke in the up postion to retact that cylinder slightly to be
sure the piston skirt is back from the edge so it does fall out....then
dump
pressure...select neutral and take the cylinder apart. Stuff a rag in it
while your fix the cap/O-rings.

Now that I've said all that......I guess there is a possiblity of the
cylinder tube falling off the rear cap! Maybe a piece of heavy safety
wire
hooped over the end cap and a hose clamp tightened around the tube with
the
two ends of the wire under the clamp being pulled tight as up tighten the
clamp. This would be put on before starting to loosen the tie rods of
course.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 2:49 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

really
grips
on and Wayne (they
is
direct
my
it.
It
main
position
pre-builts),
so
the
cylinder want
then
that
that
is
all
When
pump
the
in
pressure.
will
is
piston
was
are
valve
line
and
many
replacing small
sun.
idea
worry
on
other
to
Has




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