only happens when pumping in the wheels up position in my left rear main
wheel cylinder. It is coming out of the rod end, only in the up position but
is a pretty serious leak.
So how do I fix this? I did not build these amphibs (early pre-builts), so
don't what is inside the cylinders for O-rings or whatever. I notice the
four cylinder cap bolts are at this end, so am wondering if that cylinder
end can be removed without taking out the complete cylinder. I really want
to avoid that if I can, as it would mean taking off my wheels, and then
trying to get inside there to get at the back of the cylinder to undo that
connection. I think I could put up with the leak for the summer if that is
what it took.
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: May 6, 2006 10:35 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs
As I've said numerous times..... My floats for almost a year now and
Howard's old floats built in 1998 had no hydraulic leakage issues at all for
seven seasons. Howard's would sit all winter in the hangar and hold 100psi.
Mine constantly builds pressure itself and I always have to dump the
pressure by flipping the selector handle thru it's up/down cycle. When
sitting on my airlift at the lake I actually select gear down and pump the
gear about 6 strokes and then select gear up. When it builds pressure in the
sun/heat it then retracts the gear by itself instead of building pressure.
One thing I found with a couple I have worked on is the pressure will slowly
go down. Watch the pump handle (mark the piston rod location)...it will
slowly change position. What is happening is the pressure check valve is
leaking and the fluid is coming back into the pump and filling the piston
cavity while the inlet check valve does it's job. Found if the pump was left
in the fully filled position the system would not bleed down. If you are
trying to isolate things this may at least point you to which check valve is
leaking. Another way would be to put a ball valve in the pressure line and
inlet lines.
Drew...did you send the email about repair parts directly to Nancy?
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs
theAt 11:25 AM 5/6/2006 -0400, you wrote:o-rings seal the rod. If there is only one you might consider replacingDrew,
If you take the cyl. apart again, slide out the rod and see how many
justcaps with the 2 o-ring caps from MAM. Not keeping pressure if it's small
might not be a bad thing as the plane sits in the hanger or hot sun.Hi Bruce I emailed MAM to find out about replacement cylinders and partsBruce G
but haven't had a reply yet. Changing the caps is probably a good idea and
is something I'll check out. If it was a small leak I wouldn't worry about
it but what I have is a drop from 150psi to 0 in less than a minute on
this one cylinder there's some other small leaks either in the other
cylinders or the pump check valves that add up to losing all my pressure
in about 45 seconds. I'm not looking for perfect I just don't want to have
to keep pumping the whole time I'm landing, taking off or taxiing. Has
anyone considered installing a couple accumalators to help maintain
pressure and help prevent overpressurization.
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