[rebel-builders] Rebel -tailwrap-tailwheel

[Bob Patterson]

Hi Rod !

Yes ! It IS absolutely necessary to double the FUS-30 - you will
gat cracks down the side of the rudder post if you don't, and it's
harder to fix later .... :-(
Use the same rivet holes, plus add several more, and be sure to
pick up some of the rivets at the back of the triangular insert
at the front, as well as all the rudder post & most of the upper
bulkhead. Assemble the 2 sections wet, with slathers of EP-430
epoxy primer in between, to help glue them together.

There's nothing wrong with the standard Murphy tailwheel,
especially on lighter Rebels. On heavier Rebels, most folks go to
the Scott 3200 (if you can find one !), because it is pneumatic,
and larger diameter, so gives a better ride. It also adds about
8 lb. to the tail, usually "a good thing"(tm) with heavier engines ! :-)
(Avoid the cheaper Maule tailwheels - they shimmy with wear ..)
If you can find or make one, a composite (fiberglass) spring is ideal -
just MHO - that's my preferred choice. The solid Murphy spring can
be made useable by machining (or grinding) the bottom end so that
it tapers from where it's clamped at the top, to about 1/2 the thickness
at the bottom, where the tailwheel attaches. This gives it a
bit of bounce, turning it from a slab to a spring ... ;-) :-)
Leave the thickness constant at the front end, as this determines
the length of the stabilizer struts - and you don't want to change those
every time you change springs !

Surprised you need a fuel pump - most Rebels don't, gravity feed
being adequate, but maybe the Rotec needs it ... BEFORE would likely
give best flow. Think most use the AS & S gascolators - Andair also
makes nice stuff ...

Please post some pictures as soon as you can - everybody wants
to see your engine setup - bet it looks like a Mini-Moose !! :-)

......bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Wednesday 03 May 2006 10:32 am, Rod O'Gary wrote:

G day chaps

Is it utterly necessary to double up fus 30,is there an alternate ,seems
like big job ,I just painted mine also. Do you use same rivet holes or new
ones . Will be changing tailwheel from original MAM solid wheel and
spring.What do most Rebel owners change to. Also best gascolator ,best
location, before or after fuel pump.

By the way-------I have a 7 cyl Rotec Radial strapped to my Rebel.
Thanks fellas
Rod from OZ 595R

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Ian Donaldson]

G'day Rod

It's not too much of a pain to do the FUS30 doubler. I did mine after the
plane was painted, but somehow I never got around to painting it. Oh well
that's a job for another day!

I have not had a good experience with the standard Murphy tailwheel. It
turned out to be quite unsatisfactory and I have just replaced it with a
Scott 3200. I have not yet flown with it, but it seems to be just what I
need. For a spring I used just one standard 3/8"car leaf spring shaped to
follow the line of the Murphy aluminum "non spring". Works just fine.

The Scott wheel weighed just 1.5 kilograms (3.2 pounds) more than the
standard wheel. I did a recalculation of the weight and balance and the
extra weight is no problem as far as my plane is concerned. Just get surfing
the Internet. The Scotts are out there!

regards

Ian Donaldson

:
: Hi Rod !
:
: Yes ! It IS absolutely necessary to double the FUS-30 - you will
: gat cracks down the side of the rudder post if you don't, and it's
: harder to fix later .... :-(
: : There's nothing wrong with the standard Murphy tailwheel,
: especially on lighter Rebels. On heavier Rebels, most folks go to
: the Scott 3200 (if you can find one !), because it is pneumatic,
: and larger diameter, so gives a better ride. It also adds about
: 8 lb. to the tail, usually "a good thing"(tm) with heavier engines ! :-)
: (Avoid the cheaper Maule tailwheels - they shimmy with wear ..)
: If you can find or make one, a composite (fiberglass) spring is ideal -
: just MHO - that's my preferred choice. The solid Murphy spring can
: be made useable by machining (or grinding) the bottom end so that
: it tapers from where it's clamped at the top, to about 1/2 the thickness
: at the bottom, where the tailwheel attaches. This gives it a
: bit of bounce, turning it from a slab to a spring ... ;-) :-)
: Leave the thickness constant at the front end, as this determines
: the length of the stabilizer struts - and you don't want to change those
: every time you change springs !
:




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------