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[rebel-builders] Brake lines

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
Mike Betti

[rebel-builders] Brake lines

Post by Mike Betti » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:38 am

Sounds good Dave, but where in the manual is this? I been looking and can't
find anything about the brakes.
Mike Betti

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ricker" <daricker@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 6:44 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Brake lines

Mike

If I'm not mistaken the photo Wayne put up shows the gear leg with the MAM
supplied trailing edge "fairing" which is intended to cover up the brake
line as
it goes down to the wheel. That's standard on spring gear or at least our
Elite
anyhow so it "should" be documented in the manual.

BTW, you can get the MAM gear legs gun drilled also for a price.

Dave

mbetti@up.net wrote:
Ok thanks Wayne, I'll take it as an opinion, but a good one at that.
Mike Betti

On Mon, 3 Apr 2006 10:49:58 -0400, rebel-builders@dcsol.com said:
Not riveted..drilled and tapped 6-32..top bottom and middle. Really
doubtful
it has any great effect on leg strength considering you can get legs
from
Groves gun drilled for brake lines.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Brake lines

the leg. In your opinion, is it ok to drill the leg as such? the the loads...but amazingly up



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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
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Dave Ricker

[rebel-builders] Brake lines

Post by Dave Ricker » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:39 am

Hi Mike

I presume the manual talks about it somewhere, we haven't gotten that far yet
(Al H or others?) and I couldn't find it looking at the manual although it might
be in somewhere like firewall forward ;o0

The part you're looking for however is called SG-23, brake line cover.

Wayne, this might even be factory approved if we can find where it's in black &
white!

Dave

Mike Betti wrote:
Sounds good Dave, but where in the manual is this? I been looking and can't
find anything about the brakes.
Mike Betti

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ricker" <daricker@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 6:44 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Brake lines
Mike

If I'm not mistaken the photo Wayne put up shows the gear leg with the MAM
supplied trailing edge "fairing" which is intended to cover up the brake
line as
it goes down to the wheel. That's standard on spring gear or at least our
Elite
anyhow so it "should" be documented in the manual.

BTW, you can get the MAM gear legs gun drilled also for a price.

Dave

mbetti@up.net wrote:
Ok thanks Wayne, I'll take it as an opinion, but a good one at that.
Mike Betti

On Mon, 3 Apr 2006 10:49:58 -0400, rebel-builders@dcsol.com said: -----------------------------------------------------------------
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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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David A. Ricker
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Mike Betti

[rebel-builders] Brake lines

Post by Mike Betti » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:39 am

I just checked and no SG23 in my kit or on my build list.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ricker" <daricker@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Brake lines

Hi Mike

I presume the manual talks about it somewhere, we haven't gotten that far
yet
(Al H or others?) and I couldn't find it looking at the manual although it
might
be in somewhere like firewall forward ;o0

The part you're looking for however is called SG-23, brake line cover.

Wayne, this might even be factory approved if we can find where it's in
black &
white!

Dave

Mike Betti wrote:
Sounds good Dave, but where in the manual is this? I been looking and
can't
find anything about the brakes.
Mike Betti

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ricker" <daricker@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 6:44 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Brake lines
Mike

If I'm not mistaken the photo Wayne put up shows the gear leg with the
MAM
supplied trailing edge "fairing" which is intended to cover up the
brake
line as
it goes down to the wheel. That's standard on spring gear or at least
our
Elite
anyhow so it "should" be documented in the manual.

BTW, you can get the MAM gear legs gun drilled also for a price.

Dave

mbetti@up.net wrote:
--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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Dave Ricker

[rebel-builders] Brake lines

Post by Dave Ricker » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:39 am

Hmmm, that could be a running improvement ;o(

BTW, ours is S/N 583

Dave

Mike Betti wrote:
I just checked and no SG23 in my kit or on my build list.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ricker" <daricker@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Brake lines
Hi Mike

I presume the manual talks about it somewhere, we haven't gotten that far
yet
(Al H or others?) and I couldn't find it looking at the manual although it
might
be in somewhere like firewall forward ;o0

The part you're looking for however is called SG-23, brake line cover.

Wayne, this might even be factory approved if we can find where it's in
black &
white!

Dave

Mike Betti wrote:
Sounds good Dave, but where in the manual is this? I been looking and
can't
find anything about the brakes.
Mike Betti

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ricker" <daricker@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 6:44 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Brake lines
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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
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mbetti

[rebel-builders] Brake lines

Post by mbetti » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:39 am

I'm going to contract MAM today, mine is 771

On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 22:54:23 -0300, rebel-builders@dcsol.com said:
Hmmm, that could be a running improvement ;o(

BTW, ours is S/N 583

Dave

Mike Betti wrote:
I just checked and no SG23 in my kit or on my build list.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ricker" <daricker@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Brake lines
Hi Mike

I presume the manual talks about it somewhere, we haven't gotten that far
yet
(Al H or others?) and I couldn't find it looking at the manual although it
might
be in somewhere like firewall forward ;o0

The part you're looking for however is called SG-23, brake line cover.

Wayne, this might even be factory approved if we can find where it's in
black &
white!

Dave

Mike Betti wrote:
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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
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[/quote]


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Richard Wampach

[rebel-builders] Brake Lines

Post by Richard Wampach » Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:04 pm

Mike, I think you will be best off with a Tee fitting at the top aft
caliper then jump across inboard of the gear leg with a flex line about
7" to 7 1/2" (total length including the "B" nuts), to form a arc to the
front caliper. Use a Tee with the pipe on the bottom such as MS20826- .
And a MS20822- elbow into the front caliper. I am running a hard line
down the rear of the leg to the aft caliper, connected to a short flex
line out of the fuselage.

All of my brake hardware is -4, that could be an issue with some
builders, that too much volume of fluid must be moved by the master
cylinder to give good brake action. I think if all the air is bled out
of the system that will be a non issue. Another change, I have mounted
the original Matco master cylinders on the Pilots side and Matco brake
cylinders with built in reservoirs on the Co-pilot side connected in
series with flex lines. This allowed me to remove a lot of the linkage
in the brake pedal system and mount the reservoirs to the floor.

Dick Wampach SR-108




-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Mike Kimball
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 7:40 PM
To: Rebel Builder's List
Subject: [rebel-builders] Brake Lines

I have been puzzling over different ways to split the brake line to feed
the
two pucks on my SR. I know at least one builder is going straight to
one
puck then daisy chain over to the other puck but that requires a line
exiting the bottom of one puck. If you use a tee before the pucks
somewhere
then the lines go into the top of each puck. I am wondering if I could
hear
what others have done. Pics would be awesome if you can manage it.
Thanks.

Mike
044SR




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Hans Kuck

[rebel-builders] Brake lines

Post by Hans Kuck » Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:16 pm

Drew, I used Automotive type braided stainless lines from the wheel cyl.
to the master cyl. Looks good and works.
Hans 640E


On 3/5/09, Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca> wrote:
It's been suggested to me that I install a short piece of aluminum line
next to my brake cylinders to act as a thermal break and keep my plastic
lines from overheating. Supposedly sometimes these lines swell and burst
right near the fitting and it's believed that too much heat is the problem.
Does this make any sense to you guys and has anyone had a plastic brake
line fail at the wheel cylinder. I imagine it's only an issue with fast
landing planes but maybe something I should worry about on my floats since
keeping straight taxiing in a crosswind can take a lot of braking as well.
Drew



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Hans Kuck
P.O.Box 2212
Sechelt B.C.
V0N 3A0
Canada




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Wallace Wogenstahl

[rebel-builders] Brake lines

Post by Wallace Wogenstahl » Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:16 pm

from Wogie 281 I had brakline failure 3 times next to the fitting. I
believe Hans has the right solution. good luck.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 3:09 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Brake lines

It's been suggested to me that I install a short piece of aluminum line
next to my brake cylinders to act as a thermal break and keep my plastic
lines from overheating. Supposedly sometimes these lines swell and burst
right near the fitting and it's believed that too much heat is the
problem.
Does this make any sense to you guys and has anyone had a plastic brake
line fail at the wheel cylinder. I imagine it's only an issue with fast
landing planes but maybe something I should worry about on my floats since
keeping straight taxiing in a crosswind can take a lot of braking as well.
Drew



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Walter Klatt

[rebel-builders] Brake lines

Post by Walter Klatt » Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:16 pm

Drew, that's exactly what happened to me last summer, when I was 1200 miles
from home. Because of wind direction, I had to taxi to the far end of a
4000+ ft runway for take-off. So to save time, I was taxiing pretty fast
(with a good tail wind, too), and then had to brake hard at the end. All of
a sudden, one brake peddle went flat, a big smelly puff of smoke came out
from my wheel, and had to think quickly to get my airplane stopped without
running into the rough. Then I had great fun taxiing all the way back
without differential braking.

Anyway, the good news, is that the line blew right near the brake fitting at
the wheel, and I was able to cut off a couple inches, and reattach the line.
One hour later, was ready to fly again.

I thought it was an inferior line on that side, because I had a couple of
other failures on that same wheel back at home in Langley. One time, it
split in the cabin with red fluid all over the place. But that was a clean
split, not a burst.

So I have had some practice stopping and taxiing without one brake...

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Drew
Dalgleish
Sent: March 5, 2009 3:10 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Brake lines

It's been suggested to me that I install a short piece of aluminum line
next to my brake cylinders to act as a thermal break and keep my plastic
lines from overheating. Supposedly sometimes these lines swell and burst
right near the fitting and it's believed that too much heat is the problem.
Does this make any sense to you guys and has anyone had a plastic brake
line fail at the wheel cylinder. I imagine it's only an issue with fast
landing planes but maybe something I should worry about on my floats since
keeping straight taxiing in a crosswind can take a lot of braking as well.
Drew



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Wayne G. O'Shea

[rebel-builders] Brake lines

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:16 pm

Drew I presume you are talking about on the amphibs....Angus blew his I
believe. I have yet to blow mine, CYP's or the Elite I have here on Clamars.
Caused by places where you have to constantly ride the brakes to steer..
stay slow.. like big paved aerodromes... that I avoid 9 times out of 10! If
on wheel gear... I'm still on my original plastic lines since 1995's first
flight on the wheel gear.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 6:09 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Brake lines

It's been suggested to me that I install a short piece of aluminum line
next to my brake cylinders to act as a thermal break and keep my plastic
lines from overheating. Supposedly sometimes these lines swell and burst
right near the fitting and it's believed that too much heat is the
problem.
Does this make any sense to you guys and has anyone had a plastic brake
line fail at the wheel cylinder. I imagine it's only an issue with fast
landing planes but maybe something I should worry about on my floats since
keeping straight taxiing in a crosswind can take a lot of braking as well.
Drew



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Drew Dalgleish

[rebel-builders] Brake lines

Post by Drew Dalgleish » Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:16 pm

Thanks everyone. I'm mostly just concerned about my amphib brakes. Having
only one brake on wheel gear would be pretty much a non issue. Stainless
lines would work but that's more weight and expense than I'm interested in.
I'd still be on the same lines too from 1999 but they got too short cutting
an inch off every year changing from wheels to floats.


At 09:55 PM 05/03/2009 -0500, you wrote:
Drew I presume you are talking about on the amphibs....Angus blew his I
believe. I have yet to blow mine, CYP's or the Elite I have here on Clamars.
Caused by places where you have to constantly ride the brakes to steer..
stay slow.. like big paved aerodromes... that I avoid 9 times out of 10! If
on wheel gear... I'm still on my original plastic lines since 1995's first
flight on the wheel gear.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 6:09 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Brake lines

It's been suggested to me that I install a short piece of aluminum line
next to my brake cylinders to act as a thermal break and keep my plastic
lines from overheating. Supposedly sometimes these lines swell and burst
right near the fitting and it's believed that too much heat is the
problem.
Does this make any sense to you guys and has anyone had a plastic brake
line fail at the wheel cylinder. I imagine it's only an issue with fast
landing planes but maybe something I should worry about on my floats since
keeping straight taxiing in a crosswind can take a lot of braking as well.
Drew



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Drew



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Wayne G. O'Shea

[rebel-builders] Brake lines

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:16 pm

Drew.. why are you cutting them every change over. I drain the brake
reservoir and pedal cylinders and then pull the lines right off the
master/pedal cylinders. Lift the aircraft and pull the line out of the
aircraft and leave them attached to the floats. Then install wheel gear with
it's full length brake line to the pedal cylinder and fill with fluid FROM
THE BOTTOM UP using a windshield washer pump or squirt can. Easier this way
then a mid way splice and then trying to get the air out.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 11:31 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Brake lines

Thanks everyone. I'm mostly just concerned about my amphib brakes. Having
only one brake on wheel gear would be pretty much a non issue. Stainless
lines would work but that's more weight and expense than I'm interested
in.
I'd still be on the same lines too from 1999 but they got too short
cutting
an inch off every year changing from wheels to floats.


At 09:55 PM 05/03/2009 -0500, you wrote:
Drew I presume you are talking about on the amphibs....Angus blew his I
believe. I have yet to blow mine, CYP's or the Elite I have here on
Clamars.
Caused by places where you have to constantly ride the brakes to steer..
stay slow.. like big paved aerodromes... that I avoid 9 times out of 10!
If
on wheel gear... I'm still on my original plastic lines since 1995's first
flight on the wheel gear.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 6:09 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Brake lines

It's been suggested to me that I install a short piece of aluminum line
next to my brake cylinders to act as a thermal break and keep my plastic
lines from overheating. Supposedly sometimes these lines swell and burst
right near the fitting and it's believed that too much heat is the
problem.
Does this make any sense to you guys and has anyone had a plastic brake
line fail at the wheel cylinder. I imagine it's only an issue with fast
landing planes but maybe something I should worry about on my floats
since
keeping straight taxiing in a crosswind can take a lot of braking as
well.
Drew



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Drew



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Drew Dalgleish

[rebel-builders] Brake lines

Post by Drew Dalgleish » Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:16 pm

I didn't drill a large enough hole in the floor for the nut to pass through
so I just cut an inch or so off at the master cylinder end. Of course when
I built the plane I didn't leave very much slack to make a neat
instalation. Last year I switched the master cylinder fittings to push loc
style so I don't have to cut them any more. I leave the lines attached to
the floats and wheels now. I learned the hard way that fishing them through
the float struts is a royal pain. I've got it worked out now so that I can
switch from wheels to floats in about 3 hours.

At 05:46 PM 06/03/2009 -0500, you wrote:
Drew.. why are you cutting them every change over. I drain the brake
reservoir and pedal cylinders and then pull the lines right off the
master/pedal cylinders. Lift the aircraft and pull the line out of the
aircraft and leave them attached to the floats. Then install wheel gear with
it's full length brake line to the pedal cylinder and fill with fluid FROM
THE BOTTOM UP using a windshield washer pump or squirt can. Easier this way
then a mid way splice and then trying to get the air out.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 11:31 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Brake lines

Thanks everyone. I'm mostly just concerned about my amphib brakes. Having
only one brake on wheel gear would be pretty much a non issue. Stainless
lines would work but that's more weight and expense than I'm interested
in.
I'd still be on the same lines too from 1999 but they got too short
cutting
an inch off every year changing from wheels to floats.


At 09:55 PM 05/03/2009 -0500, you wrote:
Drew I presume you are talking about on the amphibs....Angus blew his I
believe. I have yet to blow mine, CYP's or the Elite I have here on
Clamars.
Caused by places where you have to constantly ride the brakes to steer..
stay slow.. like big paved aerodromes... that I avoid 9 times out of 10!
If
on wheel gear... I'm still on my original plastic lines since 1995's first
flight on the wheel gear.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 6:09 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Brake lines




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Drew



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Drew



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Ron Shannon

[rebel-builders] Brake Lines

Post by Ron Shannon » Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:29 pm

I'm about to tackle this soon myself. On other Rebels, I've seen both
aluminum and and steel right angle AN fittings coming out the cabin floor.
In the past, I've found a wide assortment of less common fittings in both
materials at Summit Racing (http://summitracing.com) and Pegasus Racing (
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com).

It's my understanding traditional brake fluid is corrosive to aluminum. Of
course, a trip to the archives reveals the consensus recommended fluid for
Rebel brakes seems to be Dextron automatic transmission fluid. Whether
that's corrosive to aluminum or not I don't know. If it isn't, I'll use
aluminum fittings.

Hope that helps. No doubt, others more knowledgeable than I will contribute
answers too.

Ron



On Mon, Aug 31, 2009 at 4:06 PM, David L. Tuck <dltuck53@hotmail.com> wrote:
I'm in the process of fitting the brake lines from the master cylinders to
the gear legs, In what way are you exitting the cabin area? I would like to
use a 90 degree fitting the flex tubing on down the gear leg.

Can't seem to come up with a 90 bulkhead fitting to use with the brass
nylaflow plastic lines.

Does anyone have any input for this?

Thanks

Dave T

rebel 009


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Drew Dalgleish

[rebel-builders] Brake Lines

Post by Drew Dalgleish » Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:29 pm

At 07:06 PM 31/08/2009 -0400, you wrote:
I'm in the process of fitting the brake lines from the master cylinders to
the gear legs, In what way are you exitting the cabin area? I would like to
use a 90 degree fitting the flex tubing on down the gear leg.
Can't seem to come up with a 90 bulkhead fitting to use with the brass
nylaflow plastic lines.
Does anyone have any input for this?

Thanks

Dave T

rebel 009
Hi Dave I say keep it simple and just run the line through a rubber
grommet. Saves weight and eliminates potential leak sources. I've never
found any wear on my brake lines but they do get hard and need to be
replaced every few years. If you're planning on using the line that came
kit #009 I'd take a good look at it and consider using new stuff.
Drew



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