Do you want this big green box to go away? Well here's how...

Click here for full update

Wildcat! photo archives restored.

Click here for full update

Donors can now disable ads.

Click here for instructions

Add yourself to the user map.

Click here for instructions

[rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
Locked
Wayne G. O'Shea

[rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:34 am

I've found as long as you keep the aft edge distance to minimums there is no
reason to do the "plywood and baseball bat" adjustment! If you hold it down
tight while drilling from the center tab out in both directions and then do
the top/side edges it will fit just fine when pulled down with rivets.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 10:21 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel

I am working on the upper corner wraps. Where the upper fus 10 (I am using
fus 70s) joins the fus 33 at bulkhead "B" it won't lay down around the
radius because of the taper. The manual shows something involving a
plywood
cutout, but I wasn't sure what they are getting at. Do I need to do some
kind of forming of the radius edge of the fus 70 to make it fit properly,
and if so what is the best way to do it? I am tempted to just ignore it,
because the gap is only visible from inside, but I'm not sure what will
hapen when I rivet it down.
Thanks.
Jesse





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Top
Jesse Jenks

[rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel

Post by Jesse Jenks » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:34 am

OK, thanks Wayne.
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 22:29:33 -0500

I've found as long as you keep the aft edge distance to minimums there is
no
reason to do the "plywood and baseball bat" adjustment! If you hold it down
tight while drilling from the center tab out in both directions and then do
the top/side edges it will fit just fine when pulled down with rivets.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 10:21 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel

I am working on the upper corner wraps. Where the upper fus 10 (I am
using
fus 70s) joins the fus 33 at bulkhead "B" it won't lay down around the
radius because of the taper. The manual shows something involving a
plywood
cutout, but I wasn't sure what they are getting at. Do I need to do some
kind of forming of the radius edge of the fus 70 to make it fit
properly,
and if so what is the best way to do it? I am tempted to just ignore it,
because the gap is only visible from inside, but I'm not sure what will
hapen when I rivet it down.
Thanks.
Jesse





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Top
N.Smith

[rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel

Post by N.Smith » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:34 am

Hi Jesse

I'd hold the radius tight down with screw down skin pins - not spring ones
when drilling. That way it will be held as flush as possible and not change
much when riveted.

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jesse Jenks
Sent: 21 March 2006 03:21
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel


I am working on the upper corner wraps. Where the upper fus 10 (I am using
fus 70s) joins the fus 33 at bulkhead "B" it won't lay down around the
radius because of the taper. The manual shows something involving a plywood
cutout, but I wasn't sure what they are getting at. Do I need to do some
kind of forming of the radius edge of the fus 70 to make it fit properly,
and if so what is the best way to do it? I am tempted to just ignore it,
because the gap is only visible from inside, but I'm not sure what will
hapen when I rivet it down.
Thanks.
Jesse





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Top
Jesse Jenks

[rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel

Post by Jesse Jenks » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:34 am

Thanks Nigel,
I have seen those being used for this purpose in several pictures of other
Rebels. Unfortunately, I don't have any. Maybe it's time to order some, or
use the "baseball bat method" as Wayne describes. Come to think of it, I
don't have one of those either. Dang!

From: "N.Smith" <admin@airnig.co.uk>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 07:03:25 -0000

Hi Jesse

I'd hold the radius tight down with screw down skin pins - not spring ones
when drilling. That way it will be held as flush as possible and not change
much when riveted.

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jesse Jenks
Sent: 21 March 2006 03:21
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel


I am working on the upper corner wraps. Where the upper fus 10 (I am using
fus 70s) joins the fus 33 at bulkhead "B" it won't lay down around the
radius because of the taper. The manual shows something involving a plywood
cutout, but I wasn't sure what they are getting at. Do I need to do some
kind of forming of the radius edge of the fus 70 to make it fit properly,
and if so what is the best way to do it? I am tempted to just ignore it,
because the gap is only visible from inside, but I'm not sure what will
hapen when I rivet it down.
Thanks.
Jesse





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Top
Jim Cole

[rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel

Post by Jim Cole » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:34 am

Hi Jesse, I had the best luck using that great invention - duck tape -
to help keep the corner wrap in place and with addition of an extra set
of hands managed to keep good pressure on the curvature to drill the
holes and then cleco as we went.

Cheers
Jim
Rebel 333

Jesse Jenks wrote:
Thanks Nigel,
I have seen those being used for this purpose in several pictures of other
Rebels. Unfortunately, I don't have any. Maybe it's time to order some, or
use the "baseball bat method" as Wayne describes. Come to think of it, I
don't have one of those either. Dang!



From: "N.Smith" <admin@airnig.co.uk>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 07:03:25 -0000

Hi Jesse

I'd hold the radius tight down with screw down skin pins - not spring ones
when drilling. That way it will be held as flush as possible and not change
much when riveted.

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jesse Jenks
Sent: 21 March 2006 03:21
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel


I am working on the upper corner wraps. Where the upper fus 10 (I am using
fus 70s) joins the fus 33 at bulkhead "B" it won't lay down around the
radius because of the taper. The manual shows something involving a plywood
cutout, but I wasn't sure what they are getting at. Do I need to do some
kind of forming of the radius edge of the fus 70 to make it fit properly,
and if so what is the best way to do it? I am tempted to just ignore it,
because the gap is only visible from inside, but I'm not sure what will
hapen when I rivet it down.
Thanks.
Jesse





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------









-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Top
N.Smith

[rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel

Post by N.Smith » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:34 am

Hi Jesse

It's worth getting some red ones (#40) and some yellow ones (#30) before you
start drilling. I messed up both top sides by using ordinary spring cleco's
and when I started riveting the extra pull meant the holes went out of
alignment as I approached the upper and lower edges. 2 new bits from MAM
later I used the screw skin pins and no problems second time around. D'oh
:-)

Nig
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jesse Jenks
Sent: 21 March 2006 16:53
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel


Thanks Nigel,
I have seen those being used for this purpose in several pictures of other
Rebels. Unfortunately, I don't have any. Maybe it's time to order some, or
use the "baseball bat method" as Wayne describes. Come to think of it, I
don't have one of those either. Dang!

From: "N.Smith" <admin@airnig.co.uk>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 07:03:25 -0000

Hi Jesse

I'd hold the radius tight down with screw down skin pins - not spring ones
when drilling. That way it will be held as flush as possible and not change
much when riveted.

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jesse Jenks
Sent: 21 March 2006 03:21
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel


I am working on the upper corner wraps. Where the upper fus 10 (I am using
fus 70s) joins the fus 33 at bulkhead "B" it won't lay down around the
radius because of the taper. The manual shows something involving a plywood
cutout, but I wasn't sure what they are getting at. Do I need to do some
kind of forming of the radius edge of the fus 70 to make it fit properly,
and if so what is the best way to do it? I am tempted to just ignore it,
because the gap is only visible from inside, but I'm not sure what will
hapen when I rivet it down.
Thanks.
Jesse





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Top
Jesse Jenks

[rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel

Post by Jesse Jenks » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:34 am

Nigel,
Unfortunately I had already drilled one side to #40. I stared at it for a
while, and decided to try something. I cut the end of the fus 33 that is
sandwiched between the bulkhead and the fus 70, so that it resembles the
bulkhead tabs. This allows the fus 33 and the bulkhead tabs to bend out
slightly and mate flush with the inside of the fus 70. Same idea as the
plywood and baseball bat forming, but from the inside. From the outside it
looks perfect, and on the inside now there are no gaps.
Jesse
From: "N.Smith" <admin@airnig.co.uk>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 20:05:58 -0000

Hi Jesse

It's worth getting some red ones (#40) and some yellow ones (#30) before
you
start drilling. I messed up both top sides by using ordinary spring cleco's
and when I started riveting the extra pull meant the holes went out of
alignment as I approached the upper and lower edges. 2 new bits from MAM
later I used the screw skin pins and no problems second time around. D'oh
:-)

Nig
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jesse Jenks
Sent: 21 March 2006 16:53
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel


Thanks Nigel,
I have seen those being used for this purpose in several pictures of other
Rebels. Unfortunately, I don't have any. Maybe it's time to order some, or
use the "baseball bat method" as Wayne describes. Come to think of it, I
don't have one of those either. Dang!

From: "N.Smith" <admin@airnig.co.uk>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 07:03:25 -0000

Hi Jesse

I'd hold the radius tight down with screw down skin pins - not spring
ones
when drilling. That way it will be held as flush as possible and not
change
much when riveted.

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jesse Jenks
Sent: 21 March 2006 03:21
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel


I am working on the upper corner wraps. Where the upper fus 10 (I am
using
fus 70s) joins the fus 33 at bulkhead "B" it won't lay down around the
radius because of the taper. The manual shows something involving a
plywood
cutout, but I wasn't sure what they are getting at. Do I need to do some
kind of forming of the radius edge of the fus 70 to make it fit properly,
and if so what is the best way to do it? I am tempted to just ignore it,
because the gap is only visible from inside, but I'm not sure what will
hapen when I rivet it down.
Thanks.
Jesse





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Top
N.Smith

[rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel

Post by N.Smith » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:34 am

Hi Jesse

Hopefully you are alright. If you start in the centre of the radius and work
out to the upper and lower edges, pulling the layers together as much as
possible before drilling up to #30 you may find it's going to be alright for
you. The rivets will really squeeze the layers together though so screw down
cleco's help to make sure.

Good luck

Nig

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jesse Jenks
Sent: 22 March 2006 03:04
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel



Nigel,
Unfortunately I had already drilled one side to #40. I stared at it for a
while, and decided to try something. I cut the end of the fus 33 that is
sandwiched between the bulkhead and the fus 70, so that it resembles the
bulkhead tabs. This allows the fus 33 and the bulkhead tabs to bend out
slightly and mate flush with the inside of the fus 70. Same idea as the
plywood and baseball bat forming, but from the inside. From the outside it
looks perfect, and on the inside now there are no gaps.
Jesse
From: "N.Smith" <admin@airnig.co.uk>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 20:05:58 -0000

Hi Jesse

It's worth getting some red ones (#40) and some yellow ones (#30) before
you
start drilling. I messed up both top sides by using ordinary spring cleco's
and when I started riveting the extra pull meant the holes went out of
alignment as I approached the upper and lower edges. 2 new bits from MAM
later I used the screw skin pins and no problems second time around. D'oh
:-)

Nig
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jesse Jenks
Sent: 21 March 2006 16:53
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel


Thanks Nigel,
I have seen those being used for this purpose in several pictures of other
Rebels. Unfortunately, I don't have any. Maybe it's time to order some, or
use the "baseball bat method" as Wayne describes. Come to think of it, I
don't have one of those either. Dang!

From: "N.Smith" <admin@airnig.co.uk>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 07:03:25 -0000

Hi Jesse

I'd hold the radius tight down with screw down skin pins - not spring
ones
when drilling. That way it will be held as flush as possible and not
change
much when riveted.

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jesse Jenks
Sent: 21 March 2006 03:21
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel


I am working on the upper corner wraps. Where the upper fus 10 (I am
using
fus 70s) joins the fus 33 at bulkhead "B" it won't lay down around the
radius because of the taper. The manual shows something involving a
plywood
cutout, but I wasn't sure what they are getting at. Do I need to do some
kind of forming of the radius edge of the fus 70 to make it fit properly,
and if so what is the best way to do it? I am tempted to just ignore it,
because the gap is only visible from inside, but I'm not sure what will
hapen when I rivet it down.
Thanks.
Jesse





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Top
Locked

Return to “Rebel Builders List”