a search on Aircraft Spruce using "screw skin pins" with no result. I
looked under "Sheet metal tools" with no result. I searched Google
using "screw skin pins" with no luck.
So what are these items and where does one get them?
Thanks,
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
N.Smith
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 1:06 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel
Hi Jesse
It's worth getting some red ones (#40) and some yellow ones (#30) before
you start drilling. I messed up both top sides by using ordinary spring
cleco's and when I started riveting the extra pull meant the holes went
out of alignment as I approached the upper and lower edges. 2 new bits
from MAM later I used the screw skin pins and no problems second time
around. D'oh
:-)
Nig
745E
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jesse Jenks
Sent: 21 March 2006 16:53
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel
Thanks Nigel,
I have seen those being used for this purpose in several pictures of
other Rebels. Unfortunately, I don't have any. Maybe it's time to order
some, or use the "baseball bat method" as Wayne describes. Come to think
of it, I don't have one of those either. Dang!
From: "N.Smith" <admin@airnig.co.uk>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 07:03:25 -0000
Hi Jesse
I'd hold the radius tight down with screw down skin pins - not spring
ones when drilling. That way it will be held as flush as possible and
not change much when riveted.
Nigel
745E
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jesse Jenks
Sent: 21 March 2006 03:21
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Corner wrap joints, Rebel
I am working on the upper corner wraps. Where the upper fus 10 (I am
using fus 70s) joins the fus 33 at bulkhead "B" it won't lay down
around the radius because of the taper. The manual shows something
involving a plywood cutout, but I wasn't sure what they are getting at.
Do I need to do some kind of forming of the radius edge of the fus 70
to make it fit properly, and if so what is the best way to do it? I am
tempted to just ignore it, because the gap is only visible from inside,
but I'm not sure what will hapen when I rivet it down. Thanks.
Jesse
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
