[rebel-builders] Workbench

[Jeff McMurrer]

Charlie,

You will eventually need the 4 x 16 ft table when building the wings and fuselage. But for now, just build half of what you require (4 x 8 table, build the other half later and join together to make up your lengthy table for a later date.)

When building the Rebel or any of the kits, you will be starting with the smaller components (flaps/rudder/fin/etc.)

Feel free to post any questions you have. We

[Rich Dodson]

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/work ... rktabl.htm

The above link should get you to the EAA Chapter 1000 website and its standard worktable plan. I am almost done building mine and it is both simple and strong. You can later build a second one and join them together.
Best Wishes,
Rich





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[Dave Ricker]

Hi Charles

Welcome to the fun. You should be able to do most if not all on a 4 x 12 at
least we have done all but the fuselage so far so maybe it'll need extending
then but for at least a good part of the project you don't need the full table.

Enjoy!

Dave
elite583.cjb.net

charles eubanks wrote:

To All
If I get this posted right, this will be my first time on the Rebel net. I
would appreciate your patience. I am waiting now for a estimated mid March
delivery of my Rebel kit, SN/802R. The workbench drawing is the only info I
have received so far. I thought I would get started on it but, in the
interest of conserving floor space in my shop, I am wondering if the
workbench need be the full 4Ft.x16Ft. Or would something smaller work just
as well. Thanks
Charlie E. 802R

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--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Remember it's important to have the top edge overhang shown in the drawings.
At least an inch is a MUST for clamping down the main spar etc for
construction...amongst other things. Only slight modifications are required
to MAM's drawing to be able to have 2 - 4 x 8 tables that can be joined
together with a long "strap" of plywood on each side. It is imparitive that
the top deck be flat with no high spots or twists. You can get very creative
and have levelers on each leg or just use wood shims to get it spot on. I
recheck the table before all builds with a digital level to be sure the
table is 0.00 in all directions. Also check for high spots/rocking of the
straight edge over the seam between the two joined tables before starting to
build.

When doing your flaperons don't do them "free hand". Mark a square line to
the tables edge and nail "spent" rivet mandrels into the table top to make a
square "jig" to fit the flaperon into when doing the final trailing edge
install. This way all 4 will be indentical and square. Use the same trick
when you get to the fuselage and are doing the cabin bulkheads that are all
44" wide. Put a pair on a piece of plywood at the correct width and then
nail mandrels around the perimeter. Gives you an instant jig for the other
many pairs so they are all exactly the same size and square. Speeds things
up CONSIDERABLY!

Have FUN!
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "charles eubanks" <cfeubanks@worldnet.att.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 4:01 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Workbench

To All
If I get this posted right, this will be my first time on the Rebel net. I
would appreciate your patience. I am waiting now for a estimated mid March
delivery of my Rebel kit, SN/802R. The workbench drawing is the only info

I

have received so far. I thought I would get started on it but, in the
interest of conserving floor space in my shop, I am wondering if the
workbench need be the full 4Ft.x16Ft. Or would something smaller work just
as well. Thanks
Charlie E. 802R




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[charles eubanks]

Wayne
Looks like I will be building a full 4' x 16' table. Thanks for all the
tips.
Charlie E. 802R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Workbench

Remember it's important to have the top edge overhang shown in the

drawings.

At least an inch is a MUST for clamping down the main spar etc for
construction...amongst other things. Only slight modifications are

required

to MAM's drawing to be able to have 2 - 4 x 8 tables that can be joined
together with a long "strap" of plywood on each side. It is imparitive

that

the top deck be flat with no high spots or twists. You can get very

creative

and have levelers on each leg or just use wood shims to get it spot on. I
recheck the table before all builds with a digital level to be sure the
table is 0.00 in all directions. Also check for high spots/rocking of the
straight edge over the seam between the two joined tables before starting

to

build.

When doing your flaperons don't do them "free hand". Mark a square line to
the tables edge and nail "spent" rivet mandrels into the table top to make

a

square "jig" to fit the flaperon into when doing the final trailing edge
install. This way all 4 will be indentical and square. Use the same trick
when you get to the fuselage and are doing the cabin bulkheads that are

all

44" wide. Put a pair on a piece of plywood at the correct width and then
nail mandrels around the perimeter. Gives you an instant jig for the other
many pairs so they are all exactly the same size and square. Speeds things
up CONSIDERABLY!

Have FUN!
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "charles eubanks" <cfeubanks@worldnet.att.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 4:01 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Workbench

To All
If I get this posted right, this will be my first time on the Rebel net.

I

would appreciate your patience. I am waiting now for a estimated mid

March

delivery of my Rebel kit, SN/802R. The workbench drawing is the only

info

I

have received so far. I thought I would get started on it but, in the
interest of conserving floor space in my shop, I am wondering if the
workbench need be the full 4Ft.x16Ft. Or would something smaller work

just

as well. Thanks
Charlie E. 802R




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[charles eubanks]

Ralph
The leveling bolts on each leg sounds like a good idea and I bet the
shipping crate will make good shelves for under the table top. As for hiring
the auto "roll back" that is exactly what I was going to do. I used this
same method once before when I built a Glastar. He sat it right in my
hangar.
Thanks Charlie E. 802R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rebaker@sc.rr.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 9:07 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] workbench

Charles,
One thing you will find is a diversity of opinion on this site. Our 4' x

16' work bench was made mostly to MAM plans with a few exceptions. A shelf
was added underneath using MAM crate material. (Never enough room in the
shop) The top is two sheets of 7/8" birch plywood. A little pricey but
worth it in my opinion for flatness and smoothness. Under each leg a
1/2 -13 bolt into a coupling nut was added for ability to level to true
independent of floor. Extra bracing where it looked needed. You will have
to live with the bench throughout the build and it worth doing it right to
start. Starting with 16' means not having to join and level later.

Add a plug in strip on each side as well. One other suggestion. If you

do not already have a way to deliver from the truck terminal consider hiring
an auto "roll back" carrier to deliver. Loading at the terminal is easy and
at your shop the roll back can tilt the bed and gently "jump" the truck out
from under the crate. Once on the ground the roll back can lower his wheel
dolly and gently push (slide) the crate inside. Note the operative word
gently. Another hint: make a 2x4 frame and use the crate material to build
a multi shelf material storage rack.

Enjoy the building.
Ralph Baker



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[Brian Breathnach]

Hi Charlie,

Welcome to the builders site.

I also have a space problem and did not build the suggested Murphy bench
mainly because it would be impossible to store in my 2 car garage after the
build of R779 is finished. The build is taking up one half of the garage
which is dedicated to building Her Ladyship R779.

The bench I built can be disassembled and stored flat against a wall ready
to do duty should there be a future need for it.

If interested I can forward some photos of it but I will have to do it using
your own private email address as emails to this site will not accept
attachments.

Cheers

Brian Breathnach




----- Original Message -----
From: "charles eubanks" <cfeubanks@worldnet.att.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 1:01 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Workbench

To All
If I get this posted right, this will be my first time on the Rebel net. I
would appreciate your patience. I am waiting now for a estimated mid March
delivery of my Rebel kit, SN/802R. The workbench drawing is the only info
I
have received so far. I thought I would get started on it but, in the
interest of conserving floor space in my shop, I am wondering if the
workbench need be the full 4Ft.x16Ft. Or would something smaller work just
as well. Thanks
Charlie E. 802R




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[Ken]

Hi Charlie

I've never seen my 16' table with empty space although as mentioned one
probably could build the tail surfaces on 8', the wing on 12', and then
the fuselage on 16'.

There is at least one Excel spreadsheet from Wray T. on the site with
all the Rebel parts listed with a short description. If you enter where
you have stored each part it might save you a fair bit of time searching
for stuff when you might not even know what you are looking for...

Ken 119R
Subaru in ground running/debug phase






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[Jones, Michael]

hey ken

way to go, subby running, thats fantastic

mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 7:52 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Workbench


Hi Charlie

I've never seen my 16' table with empty space although as mentioned one
probably could build the tail surfaces on 8', the wing on 12', and then
the fuselage on 16'.

There is at least one Excel spreadsheet from Wray T. on the site with
all the Rebel parts listed with a short description. If you enter where
you have stored each part it might save you a fair bit of time searching
for stuff when you might not even know what you are looking for...

Ken 119R
Subaru in ground running/debug phase






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[Jesse Jenks]

Charlie,
I have a small shop and needed to maximize the space, so I made mine 3' X
14' and it seems about perfect. I made it with 2 sections of floor beam and
used the 12" strips cut off the table top for cross members. Very straight
and stiff. I only need 4 legs, which makes shimming adjustments easy.
Jesse

From: "charles eubanks" <cfeubanks@worldnet.att.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Workbench
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 22:22:02 -0600

Wayne
Looks like I will be building a full 4' x 16' table. Thanks for all the
tips.
Charlie E. 802R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Workbench

Remember it's important to have the top edge overhang shown in the

drawings.

At least an inch is a MUST for clamping down the main spar etc for
construction...amongst other things. Only slight modifications are

required

to MAM's drawing to be able to have 2 - 4 x 8 tables that can be joined
together with a long "strap" of plywood on each side. It is imparitive

that

the top deck be flat with no high spots or twists. You can get very

creative

and have levelers on each leg or just use wood shims to get it spot on.

I

recheck the table before all builds with a digital level to be sure the
table is 0.00 in all directions. Also check for high spots/rocking of

the

straight edge over the seam between the two joined tables before

starting
to

build.

When doing your flaperons don't do them "free hand". Mark a square line

to

the tables edge and nail "spent" rivet mandrels into the table top to

make
a

square "jig" to fit the flaperon into when doing the final trailing edge
install. This way all 4 will be indentical and square. Use the same

trick

when you get to the fuselage and are doing the cabin bulkheads that are

all

44" wide. Put a pair on a piece of plywood at the correct width and then
nail mandrels around the perimeter. Gives you an instant jig for the

other

many pairs so they are all exactly the same size and square. Speeds

things

up CONSIDERABLY!

Have FUN!
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "charles eubanks" <cfeubanks@worldnet.att.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 4:01 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Workbench

To All
If I get this posted right, this will be my first time on the Rebel

net.
I

would appreciate your patience. I am waiting now for a estimated mid

March

delivery of my Rebel kit, SN/802R. The workbench drawing is the only

info

I

have received so far. I thought I would get started on it but, in the
interest of conserving floor space in my shop, I am wondering if the
workbench need be the full 4Ft.x16Ft. Or would something smaller work

just

as well. Thanks
Charlie E. 802R




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[Fred Messinger \(fredm\)]

Hi Brian,

Could you forward them to me to? fredm@cisco.com

Thanks,
Fred


-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Brian Breathnach
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 11:48 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Workbench

Hi Charlie,

Welcome to the builders site.

I also have a space problem and did not build the suggested Murphy bench
mainly because it would be impossible to store in my 2 car garage after
the build of R779 is finished. The build is taking up one half of the
garage which is dedicated to building Her Ladyship R779.

The bench I built can be disassembled and stored flat against a wall
ready to do duty should there be a future need for it.

If interested I can forward some photos of it but I will have to do it
using your own private email address as emails to this site will not
accept attachments.

Cheers

Brian Breathnach




----- Original Message -----
From: "charles eubanks" <cfeubanks@worldnet.att.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 1:01 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Workbench

To All
If I get this posted right, this will be my first time on the Rebel

net. I

would appreciate your patience. I am waiting now for a estimated mid

March

delivery of my Rebel kit, SN/802R. The workbench drawing is the only

info

I
have received so far. I thought I would get started on it but, in the
interest of conserving floor space in my shop, I am wondering if the
workbench need be the full 4Ft.x16Ft. Or would something smaller work

just

as well. Thanks
Charlie E. 802R




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[NormIsler]

Seems as though enough has been said, but one short note to add.

Because my shop is small, I have found an 4 x 8 table adequate for building
all tail surfaces except the elevator. For that I added an addition to 4 x
10. Once I get to the wings, I'll go to 4 x 12.

It's not that I want to build the table 3 times, but my shop is only 12 x
24, so every bit of space is precious. And there is less table to walk around
when I want ot get to the other side. Also, re: Ken's comment about never
seeing extra space on his 16 foot table, if the table isn't there, I won't be
putting stuff on it, cluttering my work area!

For what it's worth...

Norm
Elite 702E




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[N.Smith]

Hi Charlie

Welcome to the group

I built two 8x4's and joined them together when I needed the length.

Add yourself to the map at http://www.frappr.com/murphyrebel

Nigel
Elite 745E
England

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
charles eubanks
Sent: 23 February 2006 21:01
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Workbench


To All
If I get this posted right, this will be my first time on the Rebel net. I
would appreciate your patience. I am waiting now for a estimated mid March
delivery of my Rebel kit, SN/802R. The workbench drawing is the only info I
have received so far. I thought I would get started on it but, in the
interest of conserving floor space in my shop, I am wondering if the
workbench need be the full 4Ft.x16Ft. Or would something smaller work just
as well. Thanks
Charlie E. 802R




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[Ken]

Touche but the truth is the truth Norm ;)
Ken

snip

Also, re: Ken's comment about never
seeing extra space on his 16 foot table, if the table isn't there, I won't be
putting stuff on it, cluttering my work area!

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[NormIsler]

Ken-

I know myself!
No self control!!




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