Bending brake

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Don't yah love when that happens! LOL

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: Bending brake

Wayne,
You answered my question before I finished typing!
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Bending brake
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 17:12:49 -0500

The trick with the metal brakes sharp edge is to take some scrap

alum/metal

sheet and bend it around the brake as far as you can take the leaf. Then
add
another layer and bend again. While you've got it clamped duct tape it

down

to the brake so it doesn't move. Two layers of say .020 around the brake
give plenty of radius for 6061 for up to about .032 Three or four layers
puts a nice radius in .063. You do need to move the brake edge back from
the
hinge line though. Some are a pain..like my 8 foot brake with

nut/threaded

adjustment. But my 12' brake is easy with quick adjust knobs that are

very

easy to move 1/2 a turn for each layer of "radius builder" material.

Wayne


----- Original Message -----
From: <s-aldrich@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: Bending brake

I bought a 36 inch from ATS - doesn't matter they are all the same -

crap,
only good for folding paper. I even welded on some reinforcement to keep
it
from bending in the middle - still no good except on maybe .020 or less.
If
you go with a cheapo go smaller, less likely to warp. I ended up getting

a

real one with removable fingers, etc. but 4 times the cost.

Maybe look at the combo shear, press-brake, slip roll machines

($300-$400US) You need to do something to the fingers when using as a
brake
becuse they are too sharp (usually).

Just my opinion.
Scott
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>

brake.

There

tell me

pieces
of

shear
if

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[Jesse Jenks]

I am looking at getting an inexpensive bench mounted 30" or 36" brake. There
are several available for under $100. Does anyone have one who could tell me
how well they work? Would I be better off just making one with 2 pieces of
wood and some hinges? I would also be interested in an inexpensive shear if
anyone has suggestions.
Thanks
Jesse





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[s-aldrich]

I bought a 36 inch from ATS - doesn't matter they are all the same - crap, only good for folding paper. I even welded on some reinforcement to keep it from bending in the middle - still no good except on maybe .020 or less. If you go with a cheapo go smaller, less likely to warp. I ended up getting a real one with removable fingers, etc. but 4 times the cost.

Maybe look at the combo shear, press-brake, slip roll machines ($300-$400US) You need to do something to the fingers when using as a brake becuse they are too sharp (usually).

Just my opinion.
Scott
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>

I am looking at getting an inexpensive bench mounted 30" or 36" brake. There
are several available for under $100. Does anyone have one who could tell me
how well they work? Would I be better off just making one with 2 pieces of
wood and some hinges? I would also be interested in an inexpensive shear if
anyone has suggestions.
Thanks
Jesse





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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

The trick with the metal brakes sharp edge is to take some scrap alum/metal
sheet and bend it around the brake as far as you can take the leaf. Then add
another layer and bend again. While you've got it clamped duct tape it down
to the brake so it doesn't move. Two layers of say .020 around the brake
give plenty of radius for 6061 for up to about .032 Three or four layers
puts a nice radius in .063. You do need to move the brake edge back from the
hinge line though. Some are a pain..like my 8 foot brake with nut/threaded
adjustment. But my 12' brake is easy with quick adjust knobs that are very
easy to move 1/2 a turn for each layer of "radius builder" material.

Wayne


----- Original Message -----
From: <s-aldrich@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: Bending brake

I bought a 36 inch from ATS - doesn't matter they are all the same - crap,

only good for folding paper. I even welded on some reinforcement to keep it
from bending in the middle - still no good except on maybe .020 or less. If
you go with a cheapo go smaller, less likely to warp. I ended up getting a
real one with removable fingers, etc. but 4 times the cost.

Maybe look at the combo shear, press-brake, slip roll machines

($300-$400US) You need to do something to the fingers when using as a brake
becuse they are too sharp (usually).

Just my opinion.
Scott
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>

I am looking at getting an inexpensive bench mounted 30" or 36" brake.

There

are several available for under $100. Does anyone have one who could

tell me

how well they work? Would I be better off just making one with 2 pieces

of

wood and some hinges? I would also be interested in an inexpensive shear

if

anyone has suggestions.
Thanks
Jesse





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[Jesse Jenks]

Scott,
Thanks a bunch. I had a feeling that might be the case. I have also looked
at the combo machines since I want a shear as well. My problem is shop
space. With a 400 pound unit I won't be able to easily move it out of the
way. Maybe if I put it on wheels, but It's going to get real crowded when my
fuselage goes on the gear.
I'm not familiar with how the combo machines, and the real brakes with
fingers work. What would you have to do to the fingers, put a radius on
them? could I do that with hand tools, or would I have to take it to a
machine shop?
Jesse

From: s-aldrich@comcast.net
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Bending brake
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 21:07:02 +0000

I bought a 36 inch from ATS - doesn't matter they are all the same - crap,
only good for folding paper. I even welded on some reinforcement to keep
it from bending in the middle - still no good except on maybe .020 or less.
If you go with a cheapo go smaller, less likely to warp. I ended up
getting a real one with removable fingers, etc. but 4 times the cost.

Maybe look at the combo shear, press-brake, slip roll machines
($300-$400US) You need to do something to the fingers when using as a
brake becuse they are too sharp (usually).

Just my opinion.
Scott
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>

I am looking at getting an inexpensive bench mounted 30" or 36" brake.

There

are several available for under $100. Does anyone have one who could

tell me

how well they work? Would I be better off just making one with 2 pieces

of

wood and some hinges? I would also be interested in an inexpensive shear

if

anyone has suggestions.
Thanks
Jesse





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[Jesse Jenks]

Wayne,
You answered my question before I finished typing!
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Bending brake
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 17:12:49 -0500

The trick with the metal brakes sharp edge is to take some scrap alum/metal
sheet and bend it around the brake as far as you can take the leaf. Then
add
another layer and bend again. While you've got it clamped duct tape it down
to the brake so it doesn't move. Two layers of say .020 around the brake
give plenty of radius for 6061 for up to about .032 Three or four layers
puts a nice radius in .063. You do need to move the brake edge back from
the
hinge line though. Some are a pain..like my 8 foot brake with nut/threaded
adjustment. But my 12' brake is easy with quick adjust knobs that are very
easy to move 1/2 a turn for each layer of "radius builder" material.

Wayne


----- Original Message -----
From: <s-aldrich@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: Bending brake

I bought a 36 inch from ATS - doesn't matter they are all the same -

crap,
only good for folding paper. I even welded on some reinforcement to keep
it
from bending in the middle - still no good except on maybe .020 or less.
If
you go with a cheapo go smaller, less likely to warp. I ended up getting a
real one with removable fingers, etc. but 4 times the cost.

Maybe look at the combo shear, press-brake, slip roll machines

($300-$400US) You need to do something to the fingers when using as a
brake
becuse they are too sharp (usually).

Just my opinion.
Scott
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>

I am looking at getting an inexpensive bench mounted 30" or 36" brake.

There

are several available for under $100. Does anyone have one who could

tell me

how well they work? Would I be better off just making one with 2

pieces
of

wood and some hinges? I would also be interested in an inexpensive

shear
if

anyone has suggestions.
Thanks
Jesse





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[Blueraven]

Go to this site and sign up. Its a great site with many steel projects
there to view..Mine is the plasma cutter cart..

http://www.weldingweb.com/forumdisplay.php?f=10

WRH


Jesse Jenks wrote:

I am looking at getting an inexpensive bench mounted 30" or 36" brake. There
are several available for under $100. Does anyone have one who could tell me
how well they work? Would I be better off just making one with 2 pieces of
wood and some hinges? I would also be interested in an inexpensive shear if
anyone has suggestions.
Thanks
Jesse





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[Blueraven]

Wayne,

Ive got 2 vola of arc welding projects,II & III..I can look and see if
there is one in there if you or anyone wants to build one..Seems like
there pretty simple..

WRH
==========

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

The trick with the metal brakes sharp edge is to take some scrap alum/metal
sheet and bend it around the brake as far as you can take the leaf. Then add
another layer and bend again. While you've got it clamped duct tape it down
to the brake so it doesn't move. Two layers of say .020 around the brake
give plenty of radius for 6061 for up to about .032 Three or four layers
puts a nice radius in .063. You do need to move the brake edge back from the
hinge line though. Some are a pain..like my 8 foot brake with nut/threaded
adjustment. But my 12' brake is easy with quick adjust knobs that are very
easy to move 1/2 a turn for each layer of "radius builder" material.

Wayne


----- Original Message -----
From: <s-aldrich@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: Bending brake

I bought a 36 inch from ATS - doesn't matter they are all the same - crap,

only good for folding paper. I even welded on some reinforcement to keep it
from bending in the middle - still no good except on maybe .020 or less. If
you go with a cheapo go smaller, less likely to warp. I ended up getting a
real one with removable fingers, etc. but 4 times the cost.

Maybe look at the combo shear, press-brake, slip roll machines

($300-$400US) You need to do something to the fingers when using as a brake
becuse they are too sharp (usually).

Just my opinion.
Scott
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>

I am looking at getting an inexpensive bench mounted 30" or 36" brake.

There

are several available for under $100. Does anyone have one who could

tell me

how well they work? Would I be better off just making one with 2 pieces

of

wood and some hinges? I would also be interested in an inexpensive shear

if

anyone has suggestions.
Thanks
Jesse





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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

I don't need a brake. Have an 8 footer and a 12 footer...but others here
that may want to build their own. I've seen some very usable homemade ones.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Blueraven" <bluedog@ak.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: Bending brake

Wayne,

Ive got 2 vola of arc welding projects,II & III..I can look and see if
there is one in there if you or anyone wants to build one..Seems like
there pretty simple..

WRH
==========

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

The trick with the metal brakes sharp edge is to take some scrap

alum/metal

sheet and bend it around the brake as far as you can take the leaf. Then

add

another layer and bend again. While you've got it clamped duct tape it

down

to the brake so it doesn't move. Two layers of say .020 around the brake
give plenty of radius for 6061 for up to about .032 Three or four

layers

puts a nice radius in .063. You do need to move the brake edge back from

the

hinge line though. Some are a pain..like my 8 foot brake with

nut/threaded

adjustment. But my 12' brake is easy with quick adjust knobs that are

very

easy to move 1/2 a turn for each layer of "radius builder" material.

Wayne


----- Original Message -----
From: <s-aldrich@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: Bending brake

I bought a 36 inch from ATS - doesn't matter they are all the same -

crap,

only good for folding paper. I even welded on some reinforcement to

keep it

from bending in the middle - still no good except on maybe .020 or less.

If

you go with a cheapo go smaller, less likely to warp. I ended up

getting a

real one with removable fingers, etc. but 4 times the cost.

Maybe look at the combo shear, press-brake, slip roll machines

($300-$400US) You need to do something to the fingers when using as a

brake

becuse they are too sharp (usually).

Just my opinion.
Scott
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>

There

tell me

of

shear

if

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[Blueraven]

W,

There's a 4 page description with drawings, desc and operation in vol
III. If anyone wants it, I'll fax it to em if I have the phone nos.

WRH
================

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

I don't need a brake. Have an 8 footer and a 12 footer...but others here
that may want to build their own. I've seen some very usable homemade ones.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Blueraven" <bluedog@ak.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: Bending brake

Wayne,

Ive got 2 vola of arc welding projects,II & III..I can look and see if
there is one in there if you or anyone wants to build one..Seems like
there pretty simple..

WRH
==========

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

The trick with the metal brakes sharp edge is to take some scrap

alum/metal

sheet and bend it around the brake as far as you can take the leaf. Then

add

another layer and bend again. While you've got it clamped duct tape it

down

to the brake so it doesn't move. Two layers of say .020 around the brake
give plenty of radius for 6061 for up to about .032 Three or four

layers

puts a nice radius in .063. You do need to move the brake edge back from

the

hinge line though. Some are a pain..like my 8 foot brake with

nut/threaded

adjustment. But my 12' brake is easy with quick adjust knobs that are

very

easy to move 1/2 a turn for each layer of "radius builder" material.

Wayne


----- Original Message -----
From: <s-aldrich@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: Bending brake

crap,

only good for folding paper. I even welded on some reinforcement to

keep it

from bending in the middle - still no good except on maybe .020 or less.

If

you go with a cheapo go smaller, less likely to warp. I ended up

getting a

real one with removable fingers, etc. but 4 times the cost.

($300-$400US) You need to do something to the fingers when using as a

brake

becuse they are too sharp (usually).

There

tell me

of

shear

if






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[John Kramer]

Here's a couple of plans:

http://www.cooknwithgas.com/Brake.html

http://macsmachine.com/

I got one of the small Harbor Freight shear/roll/finger brake
machines on sale for $300. It is like so many "cheap" import tools,
if you take the time to smooth it up and tune it up, and fiddle with
it a bit as you use it. They will do the job. The roller borders on
useless, until I figure out how to repair the design. Its handy.

John...

At 09:39 PM 02/18/06, you wrote:

W,

There's a 4 page description with drawings, desc and operation in vol
III. If anyone wants it, I'll fax it to em if I have the phone nos.

WRH
================

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

I don't need a brake. Have an 8 footer and a 12 footer...but others here
that may want to build their own. I've seen some very usable homemade ones.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Blueraven" <bluedog@ak.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: Bending brake

Wayne,

Ive got 2 vola of arc welding projects,II & III..I can look and see if
there is one in there if you or anyone wants to build one..Seems like
there pretty simple..

WRH
==========

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

alum/metal

add

down

layers

the

nut/threaded

very

crap,

keep it

If

getting a

brake

shear

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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Fly too low or too slow and the ground will rise up and smite thee.





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[Brian Breathnach]

Hi Jesse,
As you can see from below I tried to send some photos as attachments but I
got an auto message back from the server saying thats not allowed. If
interested you can send me your personal email address and I can send it
directly to you.
Cheers
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Breathnach" <breathnach@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: Bending brake

Hi Jesse,

Another builder convinced me before I started building that a 3 in 1 break
was a must.

Boy was he ever right. The thing works like a charm and has saved me hours
of hacking away with a hacksaw, bruised knuckles etc.

Take a look at the attached pictures and note the green stand the unit is
mounted on. That stand cost extra but was made by the outfit that
manufactured the 3/1 so I bought it, however, as can be seen, if it was
on
the floor the brake would be way too low to work comfortably with .

So, because I needed to raise the unit up to a comfortable working level
and because the unit is so heavy, I got got someone local to build the
grey
stand with wheels. That way I can easily move the thing alone which is a
breeze as the two wheels closest to the camera swivel (the rear wheels are
fixed fore and aft) and can be locked when in the desired position.

In this configuration the unit is rock solid, works like a charm, and cant
tip over due the the wheel spread.

Hope this helps.

Brian R779


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: Bending brake

Scott,
Thanks a bunch. I had a feeling that might be the case. I have also
looked
at the combo machines since I want a shear as well. My problem is shop
space. With a 400 pound unit I won't be able to easily move it out of the
way. Maybe if I put it on wheels, but It's going to get real crowded when
my
fuselage goes on the gear.
I'm not familiar with how the combo machines, and the real brakes with
fingers work. What would you have to do to the fingers, put a radius on
them? could I do that with hand tools, or would I have to take it to a
machine shop?
Jesse

From: s-aldrich@comcast.net
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Bending brake
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 21:07:02 +0000

I bought a 36 inch from ATS - doesn't matter they are all the same -
crap,
only good for folding paper. I even welded on some reinforcement to keep
it from bending in the middle - still no good except on maybe .020 or
less.
If you go with a cheapo go smaller, less likely to warp. I ended up
getting a real one with removable fingers, etc. but 4 times the cost.

Maybe look at the combo shear, press-brake, slip roll machines
($300-$400US) You need to do something to the fingers when using as a
brake becuse they are too sharp (usually).

Just my opinion.
Scott
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
There tell me of if
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