Electric Flaps

[Mike Davis]

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Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 12:27:49 +1000
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel)
From: Greg Board <normarin@winshop.com.au>
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps
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Les Vincent

You asked for info on electric flaps.

Several Australian Rebels are fitted or being fitted with electric flaps
and I think the same installation would probably suit the SR2500.

Rather than fax you pages of drawings and info., I would advise you to
contact Dave Walker at Murphy or better still Mr. Owen Boris in Canada,
905-5746330, 905-5602060,905-3896533. (I am not sure which is fax and which
is phone) to whom we have sent all construction details. I believe he is
installing them on his Rebel. I have extended these flaps at 130 knots on
my Rebel without any problem.

Greg Board
Rebel 293R VH-DOD



At 11:41 AM 03-06-98 -0400, you wrote:

I'm also waiting for the revised construction manuel for my SR2500. I'm

at a

stand still waiting to finish the cabin , put the wings on , connect up the
controlls and get this thing in the air. If any one has info on elec

flapps,

let me know about it.
Les Vincent
S\N 024

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[Mike Davis]

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Hi There

I would like to know how you got your Rebel doing 130 knots!!

Please explain.

Thanks

Brian Rebel #328R



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[Mike Davis]

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To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel)
From: Greg Board <normarin@winshop.com.au>
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps
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At 11:16 PM 08-06-98 -0400, you wrote:

Hi There

I would like to know how you got your Rebel doing 130 knots!!

Please explain.

Thanks

Brian Rebel #328R

We had to complete neary sixty hours of performance testing on the Rebel to
get it approved in this red tape country. Murphy factory performance
figures were not acceptable as they did not include environmental
calculations, Air Density, Temp. Altitude, Strip surface, Wind,
Instrument calibration, etc.. We also had to do all flight manoevers with
maximum and minimum weight at full aft & forward C. of G. Interestingly,
it was not possible to get the C. of G. to the extreme limits even though
we had 30 gallon water tank capacity in the luggage area! During this we
did a bit of experimenting ourselves to see at what speed the flaps stopped
extending..... You will find that if you put the nose down airplanes go
faster... 130 kts and a lot more too, but don't do it if you not sure what
you are doing.

Greg. R293




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[phil stubley]

A note on the way I did the electric flaps:

The drive is from a GM power seat, which gives about 100# force and a
travel of about 1.3 in., at less than 5 amps. Looked about right to
connect directly to the flap arm at the same location as the original
flex shaft.
I built a bracket from Al plates, (lots of gouging of material) and
tried to get as direct a force line as possible to prevent any tendency
of jamming. A tight fit though. The connection to the arm is
essentially a hard direct push, but with rubber washers to accept a
certain amount of misalignment.
The elecrtics are through a rocker switch on the panel with an
automotive circuit breaker on each of the down and up circuits. There
is also a limit switch on both ends of the travel at the drive. Double
protection from overload. The rocker switch is not correct, it should be
a toggle switch.
If electrics go I added a knob to the back if the motor output drive,
(which is a flexible shaft in torsion) so that I can, with difficulty
and lots of time, actually move the flaps manually. Only in an extreme
case such as jamming full down would this been needed.
Indication is by a light cable and pulley with a spring tensioner, to an
indicator located on the top of the pilot door frame near the front.
This is in my line of sight without moving my head. Important when you
are setting flaps on final and coming through the trees as at my home
strip. Easy to set them within 5 degrees by length of time of switch
depression, and check by sight.

I'm happy with the setup.

Happy slow landings
Phil.
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[David A. Ricker]

Phil

Sounds like an interesting application of homebuilder ingeniuity. If you
have the opportunity, it would be nice to see a photo or two, I am sure Mike
Davis or Wray Thompson would scan & post them for the rest of to see.

Dave R.

phil stubley wrote:

A note on the way I did the electric flaps:

The drive is from a GM power seat, which gives about 100# force and a
travel of about 1.3 in., at less than 5 amps. Looked about right to
connect directly to the flap arm at the same location as the original
flex shaft.
I built a bracket from Al plates, (lots of gouging of material) and
tried to get as direct a force line as possible to prevent any tendency
of jamming. A tight fit though. The connection to the arm is
essentially a hard direct push, but with rubber washers to accept a
certain amount of misalignment.
The elecrtics are through a rocker switch on the panel with an
automotive circuit breaker on each of the down and up circuits. There
is also a limit switch on both ends of the travel at the drive. Double
protection from overload. The rocker switch is not correct, it should be
a toggle switch.
If electrics go I added a knob to the back if the motor output drive,
(which is a flexible shaft in torsion) so that I can, with difficulty
and lots of time, actually move the flaps manually. Only in an extreme
case such as jamming full down would this been needed.
Indication is by a light cable and pulley with a spring tensioner, to an
indicator located on the top of the pilot door frame near the front.
This is in my line of sight without moving my head. Important when you
are setting flaps on final and coming through the trees as at my home
strip. Easy to set them within 5 degrees by length of time of switch
depression, and check by sight.

I'm happy with the setup.

Happy slow landings
Phil.
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--
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
DARTEC Engineering Inc.
3 Tamarac Drive
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada, B2T 1E8
ricker@dbis.ns.ca
Ph. 902-860-0256


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[David A. Ricker]

Phil

Sounds like an interesting application of homebuilder ingeniuity. If you
have the opportunity, it would be nice to see a photo or two, I am sure Mike
Davis or Wray Thompson would scan & post them for the rest of to see.

Dave R.

phil stubley wrote:

A note on the way I did the electric flaps:

The drive is from a GM power seat, which gives about 100# force and a
travel of about 1.3 in., at less than 5 amps. Looked about right to
connect directly to the flap arm at the same location as the original
flex shaft.
I built a bracket from Al plates, (lots of gouging of material) and
tried to get as direct a force line as possible to prevent any tendency
of jamming. A tight fit though. The connection to the arm is
essentially a hard direct push, but with rubber washers to accept a
certain amount of misalignment.
The elecrtics are through a rocker switch on the panel with an
automotive circuit breaker on each of the down and up circuits. There
is also a limit switch on both ends of the travel at the drive. Double
protection from overload. The rocker switch is not correct, it should be
a toggle switch.
If electrics go I added a knob to the back if the motor output drive,
(which is a flexible shaft in torsion) so that I can, with difficulty
and lots of time, actually move the flaps manually. Only in an extreme
case such as jamming full down would this been needed.
Indication is by a light cable and pulley with a spring tensioner, to an
indicator located on the top of the pilot door frame near the front.
This is in my line of sight without moving my head. Important when you
are setting flaps on final and coming through the trees as at my home
strip. Easy to set them within 5 degrees by length of time of switch
depression, and check by sight.

I'm happy with the setup.

Happy slow landings
Phil.
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--
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
DARTEC Engineering Inc.
3 Tamarac Drive
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada, B2T 1E8
ricker@dbis.ns.ca
Ph. 902-860-0256


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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

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And as with everything in building your own airplane, that is all that
matters! That YOU are happy with it!!!!!

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: phil stubley <phil.stubley@sympatico.ca>
To: murphy-rebel builders <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Thursday, March 23, 2000 10:24 AM
Subject: Electric flaps

A note on the way I did the electric flaps:

I'm happy with the setup.

Happy slow landings
Phil.
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[rebel]

Hi all

Can't remember who it was who wanted the pictures of the small flap actuator I
installed but thru the advances of new technology (up to six words a minute)
and a new soft ware program my buddy recently acquired, I posted five pics
under R systems. Sorry that they aren't very clear but trying to get this guy
to get something done while he is working two jobs was a feat within itself.
take care

Steve W.
Rebel #637


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[Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao]

I am looking for info on an electric flap motor for the Rebel. Where
can I get one, which is the best?

Thanks,

Peter



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[Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao]

Thanks Alan.

I would love some pics. How has it worked for you? Is it easy to set up
the limits for up and full down?

Thanks,

Peter



On Thursday, January 1, 2004, at 07:02 PM, Alan Hepburn wrote:

I am using the power seat motor from a '91 Cadillac. Photos if you
wish.
It's an Elite, but should be similar. The mechanism is installed, but
not
the limit switches yet.

Regards, Al Hepburn



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[Alan Hepburn]

I am using the power seat motor from a '91 Cadillac. Photos if you wish.
It's an Elite, but should be similar. The mechanism is installed, but not
the limit switches yet.

Regards, Al Hepburn



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[steve whitenect]

Hi Peter

I used a small linear actuator for mine mounted 90* to the mixer arm. Not
using the upper area for a window. There shud be some photos on the
archives under rebel systems I put on awhile ago. For more info try
www.deltranpt.com. Go to products and then to actuators. Look up the
Electrak "2". Weighs nothing, 2" stroke and has limiting switches built in.
Has enough travel to go into the reflex area of flaperon angle. Price was
about 250cdn but shud be better now that the dollar is up.

Steve W.

From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao" <northofsixty@mac.com>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Electric flaps
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 07:25:21 -0700

I am looking for info on an electric flap motor for the Rebel. Where
can I get one, which is the best?

Thanks,

Peter



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[Craig Walls]

Anyone aware of the common (if there is one) servo/motor people use when
they automate their flaps? Also, any stellar ideas for conduit inside the
wing? What about route? Pros/cons for routing along the strut vs straight
into the fuselage?

As always, thanks in advance for the great help. Craig





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