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id 0xqUIz-0003QS-00; Thu, 8 Jan 1998 21:36:17 -0500
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To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: REBEL: Re: Shock mounted instrument panel
Message-Id: <E0xqUIz-0003QS-00@mail.istar.ca>
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 21:36:17 -0500
At 05:21 PM 1/8/98 CET, you wrote:
_______________________________________________________________________My problem of today is: What is the best way to shock mount the flight
instruments in the instrument panel.
Side story:
After having chucked the first collapsed panel because it was to
weak, I also trashed the second one, this time reinforced with
lots of doublers, after discovering that the height is not enough
for gyros. I'm now going to build my own design with a
frame out of 1"x1"x1/8" angles.
But I still have to shock mount the group of six flight
instruments including the gyros. What kind of mounts and how
many of them did you use?
Stefan Pappe, #0156R, Heidelberg, Germany, pappe=B9de.ibm.com
Ouch !! A LOT of trouble !!
The standard panel is JUST big enough for 2 rows of full-size
instruments, BUT this leaves no room for throttle, carb. heat, etc.
What most of the builders here are doing now is:
- LEAVE the standard panel as is - it IS structural !!
- ADD a 1 1/2" or 2" angle (1/8" thick) to the bottom of the panel
This angle can go across the middle of the panel, or be extended
right across the corners, as well (just notch the web of the angle.)
- mount the throttle, mixture, carb heat, trim switch, and sometimes
the ignition switch in the angle. This leaves ALL of the panel free
for instruments.
To shock mount the instruments, AND also make them MUCH easier to work
on, just:
- Cut the instrument holes approx 1/8 to 1/4" oversize, then make up
a separate plate to be a "floating panel". This can be aluminum, but the
preferred material is 1/8" Lexan. The advantages of Lexan are that it is
EASIER to work, AND you can see through it to mark the holes. Just hold it
against the panel & trace the oversized holes from the back.
- Mount the instruments to the Lexan panel, and ADD extra holes at the
4 corners, and maybe a couple in the middle. put long bolts throught these=
=20
holes, slip a piece of rubber fuel line (or such) onto the bolt, then push
the bolts through matching holes in the orig. instrument panel, and attach
nuts. The rubber tubing is the shock absorbing, and the bolt tension can
adjust this.=20
The beauty of this is that you can connect the tubing & wiring to the
back of the instruments with the floating panel in your lap, instead of
having to crawl around under the panel !!
For a really nice panel, you can put lettering on the BACK of the Lexan,
then spray it black (or any suitable colour). When you mount it, it will
look shiny & a foot thick, and the lettering won't wear off !!
The floating panel is usually large enough to cover the pilot's side
of the panel, leaving the middle clear for a stack of radios, and the right
side completely open (or covered by another floating panel.)
Often, this same floating panel method is used to install all of the
electrical switches & breakers into the left side angle of the panel. The
difference here is that the panel is not shock mounted, but held on by
piano hinges at the top & bottom. This makes it easy to pull the top pin,
flip down the panel, and get at the wiring. The electrical panel is usually
made of aluminum, for conductivity.
SIDE VIEW: | =20
-|=3D|)
-----------|) Front of panel
| |
=3D=3D=3D=3D| |
-----------|) =20
-|=3D|)
|
Hope this helps you avoid any more grief !! Several of the Rebels
now flying have done this, and it's rapidly becoming a "standard". (Like
putting the flight instruments on the left, electrics on the left side=
panel,
and the engine instruments on the right, OR right side angle.)
I like to keep the right panel clear so I can mount my 8" moving map
Digifly GPS !! ;-)
Good luck !!! ....bobp
Rebels #001,002, & 068, Brampton, Ontario, CANADA
