Questions from Roger Cole re: Wing Building

Daryl C. W. O'Shea · Post by **Daryl C. W. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:41 pm

-------- Original Message --------
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 19:42:19 -0600
From: Roger Cole <rcole927@earthlink.net>

I am still trying to get some questions about wing building answered.
Would you please post the following message:

1. When I try to fit the bearing bases (CC-38) to the rear spar as
shown in Figure 8.9.2 of the instructions, the top of the CC-38 sits
about 5/16" above the top of the rear spar. Even if I push the CC-38
down so it rests on the bottom flange of the rear spar, the top of the
CC-38 sits about 1/8" above the top of the rear spar. Do I have the
wrong parts? If not, how can they be made to fit?

2. I am planning to run an aluminum tube the length of the leading
edge for electrical service to position lights, strobes, landing
lights, and taxi lights. How big should the aluminum tube be, 1/2"OD
or 3/4"OD? Should it be in front of the front spar, inside the
leading edge rib opening at the front or, close to the main spar?
Should it be high, low, or centered in the LE rib openings? Where is
the best place for the wires to come out at the wing root? I looked
in the archives but didn't find any photos.

3. I have seen references to installing one-sided nut plates for the
hinge brackets on the Rebel. Does it make sense to do the same on the
Elite?

Thanks!
-------------Roger, Elite 709E

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N.Smith · Post by **N.Smith** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:41 pm

Hi Roger

I had this exact problem yesterday, and after a bit of thought I ended up as
follows...

Not all the CC-38s are the same, they all have the same structure and
radius's but the flanges are larger on some than on others.

With this in mind I drilled the 3 holes in each side flange as close to the
radius as possible. Then I filed off the extra edge of the flange to leave
absolute minimum land from the holes. Then I radiused the lower flange edge
so it fits neatly in the radius at the bottom of the rear spar. This makes
them fit in the space available on the spar.

Next trick is to ensure you hit the doubler plates when you drill through
with sufficient land on them too.

To do this I removed the doublers from the rear of the spar, and fastened
them to the front edge. Now the CC-38's can be positioned on the doublers
and mine worked out exactly the same vertical size as the doubler when I'd
trimmed down the flanges so when I was sure I had them centred I used the
CC-38 as a drill guide and drilled through the doubler and rear spar. Then I
simply removed the doubler and repositioned it again on the rear edge. This
way you never find you have no land when you drill through the doubler.

The inboard and outboard flanges I left as is, although the outboard CC-38
fitting position quoted of 1 11/16 was going to put the torque tube arm
linkage very close to the rib when finished so I upped that distance by an
extra 1/16 when I positioned the outboard CC-38.

I plan on getting the collars drilled for the end linkages today before I
have to go to work.

As far as the metal tube in the leading edge goes, I'm going for either a
plastic conduit, or probably just clips at each nose rib to support a wire
loom in free space. Metal tubes and vibration could probably lead to short
circuits as insulation gets worn away on wires vibrating in the tube ?

Hope this makes sense, and good luck

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Daryl C. W. O'Shea
Sent: 10 January 2006 02:25
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Questions from Roger Cole re: Wing Building

-------- Original Message --------
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 19:42:19 -0600
From: Roger Cole <rcole927@earthlink.net>

I am still trying to get some questions about wing building answered.
Would you please post the following message:

1. When I try to fit the bearing bases (CC-38) to the rear spar as
shown in Figure 8.9.2 of the instructions, the top of the CC-38 sits
about 5/16" above the top of the rear spar. Even if I push the CC-38
down so it rests on the bottom flange of the rear spar, the top of the
CC-38 sits about 1/8" above the top of the rear spar. Do I have the
wrong parts? If not, how can they be made to fit?

2. I am planning to run an aluminum tube the length of the leading
edge for electrical service to position lights, strobes, landing
lights, and taxi lights. How big should the aluminum tube be, 1/2"OD
or 3/4"OD? Should it be in front of the front spar, inside the
leading edge rib opening at the front or, close to the main spar?
Should it be high, low, or centered in the LE rib openings? Where is
the best place for the wires to come out at the wing root? I looked
in the archives but didn't find any photos.

3. I have seen references to installing one-sided nut plates for the
hinge brackets on the Rebel. Does it make sense to do the same on the
Elite?

Thanks!
-------------Roger, Elite 709E

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Roger Cole · Post by **Roger Cole** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:41 pm

Nigel,
Thanks for your help. This is the great thing about the list server.
Someone has inevitably faced the same problem and has an answer. I
found that the CC-38s were splayed outward as received. A few gentle
swats with a deadblow hammer made them parallel to each other and
perpendicular to the center section. I had about a week's delay in
getting my message posted due to some incompatibilities between the
list server and my ISP - That is why the message was posted via Daryl
instead of directly from me. In that time I, too, decided to file
about 1/16 inch from the top and bottom flanges and to radius the
bottom flange.

Great idea of yours to move the doubler to the front of the spar for
fitting, and I will heed your advice on dimensions.

I like the idea of a tube to carry the wires. If I ever want to
replace a wire or add a wire, it will be much easier to pull it through
the tube. If not a metal tube, what kind of plastic? PVC is cheap and
readily available, but I have seen some discussion that it is nasty if
it burns. Another question is "What is the best location for the wires
to come out of the wing root?" I don't have a good feel for what
structures are in that area, and I haven't found any photos.
---------------Roger
On Jan 10, 2006, at 4:22 AM, N.Smith wrote:

Hi Roger

I had this exact problem yesterday, and after a bit of thought I ended
up as
follows...

Not all the CC-38s are the same, they all have the same structure and
radius's but the flanges are larger on some than on others.

With this in mind I drilled the 3 holes in each side flange as close
to the
radius as possible. Then I filed off the extra edge of the flange to
leave
absolute minimum land from the holes. Then I radiused the lower flange
edge
so it fits neatly in the radius at the bottom of the rear spar. This
makes
them fit in the space available on the spar.

Next trick is to ensure you hit the doubler plates when you drill
through
with sufficient land on them too.

To do this I removed the doublers from the rear of the spar, and
fastened
them to the front edge. Now the CC-38's can be positioned on the
doublers
and mine worked out exactly the same vertical size as the doubler when
I'd
trimmed down the flanges so when I was sure I had them centred I used
the
CC-38 as a drill guide and drilled through the doubler and rear spar.
Then I
simply removed the doubler and repositioned it again on the rear edge.
This
way you never find you have no land when you drill through the doubler.

The inboard and outboard flanges I left as is, although the outboard
CC-38
fitting position quoted of 1 11/16 was going to put the torque tube arm
linkage very close to the rib when finished so I upped that distance
by an
extra 1/16 when I positioned the outboard CC-38.

I plan on getting the collars drilled for the end linkages today
before I
have to go to work.

As far as the metal tube in the leading edge goes, I'm going for
either a
plastic conduit, or probably just clips at each nose rib to support a
wire
loom in free space. Metal tubes and vibration could probably lead to
short
circuits as insulation gets worn away on wires vibrating in the tube ?

Hope this makes sense, and good luck

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Daryl C. W. O'Shea
Sent: 10 January 2006 02:25
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Questions from Roger Cole re: Wing Building

-------- Original Message --------
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 19:42:19 -0600
From: Roger Cole <rcole927@earthlink.net>

I am still trying to get some questions about wing building answered.
Would you please post the following message:

1. When I try to fit the bearing bases (CC-38) to the rear spar as
shown in Figure 8.9.2 of the instructions, the top of the CC-38 sits
about 5/16" above the top of the rear spar. Even if I push the CC-38
down so it rests on the bottom flange of the rear spar, the top of the
CC-38 sits about 1/8" above the top of the rear spar. Do I have the
wrong parts? If not, how can they be made to fit?

2. I am planning to run an aluminum tube the length of the leading
edge for electrical service to position lights, strobes, landing
lights, and taxi lights. How big should the aluminum tube be, 1/2"OD
or 3/4"OD? Should it be in front of the front spar, inside the
leading edge rib opening at the front or, close to the main spar?
Should it be high, low, or centered in the LE rib openings? Where is
the best place for the wires to come out at the wing root? I looked
in the archives but didn't find any photos.

3. I have seen references to installing one-sided nut plates for the
hinge brackets on the Rebel. Does it make sense to do the same on the
Elite?
Thanks!
-------------Roger, Elite 709E

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