Thanks for your response.
I will leave the bolts and cotter pins as is. However I don't have the
pulled up firmly so that the nut is holding the bolt.
I think that the bolt has some movement.
They are a "little" difficult to do, but sometime soon I will give those
nuts a bit of a tighten up.
I certainly am not going to fool about with the Rebel at this point. I just
want to fly it!
It really is a nice flying airlane.
I would like to offer some words of encouragement to those still building.
Keep at it! Don't be deterred by the scope of the job at hand, and make more
time to get the construction done. It really is worth it!
Here in Australia we have a compulsory 25 hour test period during which the
aircraft is limited to 25 miles from the airport.
As you would understand I am flying as much as I can to get this done with,
and then I can go touring! I really want to sleep in the back of the Rebel!
I'm off to the airport tomorrow to fly another 2 or 3 hours. However as we
are almost in Winter the days are shortening and the weather is
unpredictable. I just hope it is OK.
Regards
Ian Donaldson
beThe drilled bolt and castle nut/cotter pin is the correct way to put the
flaperon hinge bolts in place. It can be fun, as you know, putting the
cotter pins in but do-able. They are fine in there as the bolt shouldn't
sleeveturning anyway, as the bronze bushing should be rotating on the steel
pinthat is held tight to the hinge by the bolt. The bolt should have no
rotation and is cotter pinned for safety, just in case the sleeve/bushing
seizes and starts the bolt rotating. In the case of the rudder pedal
turnbuckles, they are swinging up and down constantly and the bigger thing
is that your foot is kicking them all the time, which is why the cotter
"bend overs" break off and the clevis pin falls out.
Keep flying Ian!! Don't go pulling anything apart now!!!
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