Stabilizer leading edge ribs

David L. Tuck · Post by **David L. Tuck** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:32 pm

Any tips here ?
I'm building rebel #009,the instructions of murphy's are not quite clear!
I'm looking for help in the drilling of the leading edge ribs, I can't
figure out how to do this?
I tried a hole finder but not enough clearance under the skin, they say just
to drill carefully? what does that mean.
Confused here in Michigan
Dave Tuck
Rebel#009

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Ken · Post by **Ken** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:32 pm

Which holes David?
Main spar, forward spar, skin??
I don't remember needing a hole finder anywhere unless replacing
something already drilled.
Ken

David L. Tuck wrote:

Any tips here ?
I'm building rebel #009,the instructions of murphy's are not quite clear!
I'm looking for help in the drilling of the leading edge ribs, I can't
figure out how to do this?
I tried a hole finder but not enough clearance under the skin, they say just
to drill carefully? what does that mean.
Confused here in Michigan
Dave Tuck
Rebel#009

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Jesse Jenks · Post by **Jesse Jenks** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:32 pm

David,
Are you talking about drilling through the stab LE skin into the rib
flanges?
Jesse

From: "David L. Tuck" <dltuck53@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2005 17:02:30 -0500

Any tips here ?
I'm building rebel #009,the instructions of murphy's are not quite clear!
I'm looking for help in the drilling of the leading edge ribs, I can't
figure out how to do this?
I tried a hole finder but not enough clearance under the skin, they say
just
to drill carefully? what does that mean.
Confused here in Michigan
Dave Tuck
Rebel#009

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Alan Hepburn · Post by **Alan Hepburn** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:33 pm

I too am not sure what you're problem is, but if it's the tendency for the
ribs to flip out of line as you drill the holes, then answer is to let the
front of the wing hang over the edge of the table, and get the wife down on
the floor with a piece of wood to brace the rib from underneath. If the
wife objects, try a new one!

Al

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Alan Hepburn · Post by **Alan Hepburn** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:33 pm

Further to my last on this, sorry, I thought we were talking wing ribs.
Same thing for the stab, but no wife required!

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David L. Tuck · Post by **David L. Tuck** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:33 pm

Yes this is correct.
As I have tried to do as the instructions say, I don't quite see how you are
going to find the ribs once the leading edge skin is attached to the spars?

From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2005 18:26:49 -0800

David,
Are you talking about drilling through the stab LE skin into the rib
flanges?
Jesse

From: "David L. Tuck" <dltuck53@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2005 17:02:30 -0500

Any tips here ?
I'm building rebel #009,the instructions of murphy's are not quite clear!
I'm looking for help in the drilling of the leading edge ribs, I can't
figure out how to do this?
I tried a hole finder but not enough clearance under the skin, they say
just
to drill carefully? what does that mean.
Confused here in Michigan
Dave Tuck
Rebel#009

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David L. Tuck · Post by **David L. Tuck** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:33 pm

The LE skins, where they are attached to the spars, and then after the LE
skins are in place you are to drill the two ribs. This is where I tried a
hole finder as I drilled the fingers before I drill the LE skin. As you can
see I'm confused??
Thanks Dave/009

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2005 18:15:35 -0500

Which holes David?
Main spar, forward spar, skin??
I don't remember needing a hole finder anywhere unless replacing
something already drilled.
Ken

David L. Tuck wrote:

Any tips here ?
I'm building rebel #009,the instructions of murphy's are not quite clear!
I'm looking for help in the drilling of the leading edge ribs, I can't
figure out how to do this?
I tried a hole finder but not enough clearance under the skin, they say
just
to drill carefully? what does that mean.
Confused here in Michigan
Dave Tuck
Rebel#009

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Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:33 pm

When drilling ribs like this Dave you want to mark a line down the center of
the ribs with marker, put you skin on and move the ribs back and forth until
you find the line on the rib in the pre-punched skin hole, then drill.

I found that using the mandrel end of a couple of rivets I could move the
ribs... the end of the mandrel is a bit pointed, so it bites into the rib
flanges just a bit and allows you to move it until the line shows up in the
holes. By using 2 rivets through 2 different pre-punched skin holes, you
can "walk" the rib into place.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "David L. Tuck" <dltuck53@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs

The LE skins, where they are attached to the spars, and then after the LE
skins are in place you are to drill the two ribs. This is where I tried a
hole finder as I drilled the fingers before I drill the LE skin. As you
can
see I'm confused??
Thanks Dave/009

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2005 18:15:35 -0500

Which holes David?
Main spar, forward spar, skin??
I don't remember needing a hole finder anywhere unless replacing
something already drilled.
Ken

David L. Tuck wrote:

Any tips here ?
I'm building rebel #009,the instructions of murphy's are not quite
clear!
I'm looking for help in the drilling of the leading edge ribs, I can't
figure out how to do this?
I tried a hole finder but not enough clearance under the skin, they say
just
to drill carefully? what does that mean.
Confused here in Michigan
Dave Tuck
Rebel#009

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apoulsen · Post by **apoulsen** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:33 pm

David,

I made a template of the flange locations out of paper before I put the skin
on. After the skin was on, I measured from the edge of the skin to the rib
on the inside of the skin then transfered that measurement to the outside of
the skin, lined up the template and marked off the locations of the flanges
and drillled skin and rib at the same time.

Hope that helps.

Allen Poulsen
786R
----- Original Message -----
From: "David L. Tuck" <dltuck53@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 12:35 PM
Subject: RE: Stabilizer leading edge ribs

Yes this is correct.
As I have tried to do as the instructions say, I don't quite see how you
are
going to find the ribs once the leading edge skin is attached to the
spars?

From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2005 18:26:49 -0800

David,
Are you talking about drilling through the stab LE skin into the rib
flanges?
Jesse

From: "David L. Tuck" <dltuck53@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2005 17:02:30 -0500

Any tips here ?
I'm building rebel #009,the instructions of murphy's are not quite
clear!
I'm looking for help in the drilling of the leading edge ribs, I can't
figure out how to do this?
I tried a hole finder but not enough clearance under the skin, they say
just
to drill carefully? what does that mean.
Confused here in Michigan
Dave Tuck
Rebel#009

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Ken · Post by **Ken** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:33 pm

Hi David
I think we might have got a little off track. I too was thinking that
you were referring to the wing instead of the stab. If I recall
correctly the stab leading edge does not have prepunched holes and you
say you have already drilled the fingers. Can you cleco the top of the
leading edge to the spar (no clecos on the bottom) and then flip it over
and drill the top from the backside with a long #40 or 3/32" bit. I have
needed a 6" long bit for some things and occasionally a 12" long bit.
Then can you cleco the bottom to the leading edge spar (remove the top
clecos and flip it and drill the bottom fingers from the top. Now you
could cleco everything and drill it out to #30 which should correct any
minor hole misalignment. One caution with those long bits is to not run
the drill without the point of the bit touching something to steady it.
Ken

David L. Tuck wrote:

The LE skins, where they are attached to the spars, and then after the LE
skins are in place you are to drill the two ribs. This is where I tried a
hole finder as I drilled the fingers before I drill the LE skin. As you can
see I'm confused??
Thanks Dave/009

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David L. Tuck · Post by **David L. Tuck** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:33 pm

Thanks Mike, but the LE skins I have do not have holes pre punched.

From: "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 10:36:43 -0900

When drilling ribs like this Dave you want to mark a line down the center
of
the ribs with marker, put you skin on and move the ribs back and forth
until
you find the line on the rib in the pre-punched skin hole, then drill.

I found that using the mandrel end of a couple of rivets I could move the
ribs... the end of the mandrel is a bit pointed, so it bites into the rib
flanges just a bit and allows you to move it until the line shows up in the
holes. By using 2 rivets through 2 different pre-punched skin holes, you
can "walk" the rib into place.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "David L. Tuck" <dltuck53@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs

The LE skins, where they are attached to the spars, and then after the
LE
skins are in place you are to drill the two ribs. This is where I tried
a
hole finder as I drilled the fingers before I drill the LE skin. As you
can
see I'm confused??
Thanks Dave/009

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2005 18:15:35 -0500

Which holes David?
Main spar, forward spar, skin??
I don't remember needing a hole finder anywhere unless replacing
something already drilled.
Ken

David L. Tuck wrote:

say
just

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Jesse Jenks · Post by **Jesse Jenks** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:33 pm

Dave,
I used careful measurements from existing rivet holes in the spar and also
from the edges of the skin to triangulate the locations of the rib holes.
Measure from the spar rivet line to to each rib rivet location with the skin
off. Then with the skin clecoed in place draw several lines (2 is probably
enough) on the skin, parallel to the spar, that extend to the edge of the
skin. Using the edge of a small ruler inside the skin aligned under a line
you just made, measure the distance from the rib to the skin edge. You must
sight down the line you made on the outside of the skin in order to keep the
ruler, which is inside the skin, as close to the line as possible. Transfer
the measurement to the outside and repeat for the other parallel line to get
2 points on your rib location line. Connect the dots and you have the
location of the EDGE of the rib. DO NOT DRILL ON THIS LINE. You have to make
another line 1/4" or so inboard in order to hit the center of the rib. Use
the first measurements you took from the spar rivet line to mark the 4 rivet
locations along the rib centerline. The trick is to keep the rib from moving
while you drill. Take measurements as you go to make sure. I'm sure there is
a better way to do this, but that's the best I could come up with, and it
did work pretty well, except for the already mentioned problem of holding
the rib in place while drilling. If you know a small child you could have
them put a hand in there to hold it.
Obviously you only need to go through all this trouble for the inboard rib.
For the tip rib, just trim the skin how you want it and eyeball the rivet
holes.
Jesse

From: "David L. Tuck" <dltuck53@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 04:49:30 -0500

Thanks Mike, but the LE skins I have do not have holes pre punched.

From: "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 10:36:43 -0900

When drilling ribs like this Dave you want to mark a line down the center
of
the ribs with marker, put you skin on and move the ribs back and forth
until
you find the line on the rib in the pre-punched skin hole, then drill.

I found that using the mandrel end of a couple of rivets I could move the
ribs... the end of the mandrel is a bit pointed, so it bites into the rib
flanges just a bit and allows you to move it until the line shows up in
the
holes. By using 2 rivets through 2 different pre-punched skin holes, you
can "walk" the rib into place.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "David L. Tuck" <dltuck53@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs

The LE skins, where they are attached to the spars, and then after the
LE
skins are in place you are to drill the two ribs. This is where I
tried
a
hole finder as I drilled the fingers before I drill the LE skin. As
you
can
see I'm confused??
Thanks Dave/009

can't
say

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Jones, Michael · Post by **Jones, Michael** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:33 pm

another way to do this is mount the rib with clecos to the spar, draw the
holes you want on the rib, lay piece of mylar or tracing paper over the rib
and leading edge spar, mylar is best however as it acts like a sheet of
metal, mark as many holes to use as alignment points on leading edge spar
and the rib, then carefully punch small holes through the mylar at all the
holes, dissemble this stuff and reassemble the stab with le skin clecoed in
place, lay the mylar over the corresponding holes and cleco the mylar to the
skins, if done carefully it should lie pretty close to the right place,
drill small guide holes (under 1/8) and dissemble, reassemble with ribs in
place and see if the make locations match the ribs below, if not bend and
play with it a little, remember this is a rebel and nothing is exact or
straight generally, these ribs don't have to be perfect

mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jesse Jenks
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 11:30 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs

Dave,
I used careful measurements from existing rivet holes in the spar and also
from the edges of the skin to triangulate the locations of the rib holes.
Measure from the spar rivet line to to each rib rivet location with the skin

off. Then with the skin clecoed in place draw several lines (2 is probably
enough) on the skin, parallel to the spar, that extend to the edge of the
skin. Using the edge of a small ruler inside the skin aligned under a line
you just made, measure the distance from the rib to the skin edge. You must
sight down the line you made on the outside of the skin in order to keep the

ruler, which is inside the skin, as close to the line as possible. Transfer
the measurement to the outside and repeat for the other parallel line to get

2 points on your rib location line. Connect the dots and you have the
location of the EDGE of the rib. DO NOT DRILL ON THIS LINE. You have to make

another line 1/4" or so inboard in order to hit the center of the rib. Use
the first measurements you took from the spar rivet line to mark the 4 rivet

locations along the rib centerline. The trick is to keep the rib from moving

while you drill. Take measurements as you go to make sure. I'm sure there is

a better way to do this, but that's the best I could come up with, and it
did work pretty well, except for the already mentioned problem of holding
the rib in place while drilling. If you know a small child you could have
them put a hand in there to hold it.
Obviously you only need to go through all this trouble for the inboard rib.
For the tip rib, just trim the skin how you want it and eyeball the rivet
holes.
Jesse

From: "David L. Tuck" <dltuck53@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 04:49:30 -0500

Thanks Mike, but the LE skins I have do not have holes pre punched.

From: "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 10:36:43 -0900

When drilling ribs like this Dave you want to mark a line down the center
of
the ribs with marker, put you skin on and move the ribs back and forth
until
you find the line on the rib in the pre-punched skin hole, then drill.

I found that using the mandrel end of a couple of rivets I could move the
ribs... the end of the mandrel is a bit pointed, so it bites into the rib
flanges just a bit and allows you to move it until the line shows up in
the
holes. By using 2 rivets through 2 different pre-punched skin holes, you
can "walk" the rib into place.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "David L. Tuck" <dltuck53@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs

The LE skins, where they are attached to the spars, and then after the
LE
skins are in place you are to drill the two ribs. This is where I
tried
a
hole finder as I drilled the fingers before I drill the LE skin. As
you
can
see I'm confused??
Thanks Dave/009

can't
say

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steve whitenect · Post by **steve whitenect** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:33 pm

Just to add to that, I would hold the flange with a sharp pick in the second
flange hole so it would not move when drilled plus use new sharp bits with
little pressure.

Steve W.
Rebel #637

From: "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 10:36:43 -0900

When drilling ribs like this Dave you want to mark a line down the center
of
the ribs with marker, put you skin on and move the ribs back and forth
until
you find the line on the rib in the pre-punched skin hole, then drill.

I found that using the mandrel end of a couple of rivets I could move the
ribs... the end of the mandrel is a bit pointed, so it bites into the rib
flanges just a bit and allows you to move it until the line shows up in the
holes. By using 2 rivets through 2 different pre-punched skin holes, you
can "walk" the rib into place.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "David L. Tuck" <dltuck53@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs

The LE skins, where they are attached to the spars, and then after the
LE
skins are in place you are to drill the two ribs. This is where I tried
a
hole finder as I drilled the fingers before I drill the LE skin. As you
can
see I'm confused??
Thanks Dave/009

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2005 18:15:35 -0500

Which holes David?
Main spar, forward spar, skin??
I don't remember needing a hole finder anywhere unless replacing
something already drilled.
Ken

David L. Tuck wrote:

say
just

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Jesse Jenks · Post by **Jesse Jenks** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:33 pm

Good point Steve.

From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 17:33:03 +0000

Just to add to that, I would hold the flange with a sharp pick in the
second
flange hole so it would not move when drilled plus use new sharp bits with
little pressure.

Steve W.
Rebel #637

From: "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs
Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 10:36:43 -0900

When drilling ribs like this Dave you want to mark a line down the center
of
the ribs with marker, put you skin on and move the ribs back and forth
until
you find the line on the rib in the pre-punched skin hole, then drill.

I found that using the mandrel end of a couple of rivets I could move the
ribs... the end of the mandrel is a bit pointed, so it bites into the rib
flanges just a bit and allows you to move it until the line shows up in
the
holes. By using 2 rivets through 2 different pre-punched skin holes, you
can "walk" the rib into place.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "David L. Tuck" <dltuck53@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: Stabilizer leading edge ribs

The LE skins, where they are attached to the spars, and then after the
LE
skins are in place you are to drill the two ribs. This is where I
tried
a
hole finder as I drilled the fingers before I drill the LE skin. As
you
can
see I'm confused??
Thanks Dave/009

can't
say

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http://www.eset.com

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