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control sticks

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
Aurele Lavigne

control sticks

Post by Aurele Lavigne » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:40 pm

I was telling Wayne O. how I felt my control sticks were too high as mine are straight. I contacted MAM and there are two types depending on the engine installation and both are curved or "S" types. They both sell for about $15 U.S.. If anyone has one or even two of the earlier "s" types before they moved a firewall back or something and would be prepared to dispose of them cheap, I'd be interested, so please drop me a note.

I'm not trying to be cheap, but he new ones are inexpensive and I might even be able to have mine custom bent for a minimal price by an electricians die bender.

Aurele
Rebel 063

mbetti

Control sticks

Post by mbetti » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

Hi again,
What's the concensus on the control sticks. They definately hit the panel now and I am not sure after rigging elevator if that can be avoided. Is there any problem with cutting them off shorter as far as controlling the airplane? Or maybe bending the grip end toward the pilot leaving the stick angled?
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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Bob Patterson

Control sticks

Post by Bob Patterson » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

Hi Mike !

Have flown several Rebels where the stick hit the panel -
this is NEVER a problem in flight, as you never get near that much
deflection.

Know several who shortened the stick to pass inspection, then
found it toooo twitchy, with higher control forces, and an uncomfortable
arm position. They replaced them with the full length sticks, and are
happy now ! :-)

I think you'd find it very uncomfortable to fly for long with
the top of the stick angled back ....

If your inspector will go for it, just leave them ! Try to
keep panel protrusions out of the way as much as possible. One key
aid to this is: Mount your mike & headset jacks in the ceiling,
center, aft of the seats. This is almost standard in this area now.
Gets the cables completely out of the way and makes a fast exit
on floats a LOT easier. It also removes the jacks from the way
of the sticks. :-)

......bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Tuesday 06 December 2005 01:45 pm, mbetti@up.net wrote:
Hi again,
What's the concensus on the control sticks. They definately hit the panel
now and I am not sure after rigging elevator if that can be avoided. Is
there any problem with cutting them off shorter as far as controlling the
airplane? Or maybe bending the grip end toward the pilot leaving the stick
angled?
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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Alan Hepburn

Control sticks

Post by Alan Hepburn » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

Mike:

The situation on the Rebel is quite different from that on the Elite, due to
the much less recessed panel on the Elite. The angled sections on the Rebel
are about 45 deg to the main panel, so you absolutely have to cut the sticks
short. Even with that, you won't get the +/25 deg called for in the
instructions - you get about + 25 and - 16. But that appears to be enough,
unless you're contemplating some inverted flying - not recommended!

Now, when you look at cutting the sticks, I found that at least on mine,
when I cut the bottom of the stick so the bend starts as soon as the stick
comes out of the column, I couldn't get enough straight stickk at the top to
accommodate a standard griP. I wound up getting Robin to ship me two Moose
sticks (which are chrome-moly) with just a single bend, then cut them off at
an angle and re-welded them so the transition form the angled portion to the
grip is abupt. That way, I had room for a grip. See pics on Wildcat. Jack
Wiebe didn't find the same problem, so maybe they have changed the bend
angle a bit.

Al





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Mike Betti

Control sticks

Post by Mike Betti » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

Thanks for the headset tip, I already put them in the panel but maybe now I
will put an extra set where you say.
Mike Betti
771E
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: Control sticks

Hi Mike !

Have flown several Rebels where the stick hit the panel -
this is NEVER a problem in flight, as you never get near that much
deflection.

Know several who shortened the stick to pass inspection, then
found it toooo twitchy, with higher control forces, and an uncomfortable
arm position. They replaced them with the full length sticks, and are
happy now ! :-)

I think you'd find it very uncomfortable to fly for long with
the top of the stick angled back ....

If your inspector will go for it, just leave them ! Try to
keep panel protrusions out of the way as much as possible. One key
aid to this is: Mount your mike & headset jacks in the ceiling,
center, aft of the seats. This is almost standard in this area now.
Gets the cables completely out of the way and makes a fast exit
on floats a LOT easier. It also removes the jacks from the way
of the sticks. :-)

......bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Tuesday 06 December 2005 01:45 pm, mbetti@up.net wrote:
Hi again,
What's the concensus on the control sticks. They definately hit the panel
now and I am not sure after rigging elevator if that can be avoided. Is
there any problem with cutting them off shorter as far as controlling the
airplane? Or maybe bending the grip end toward the pilot leaving the stick
angled?
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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Mike Betti

Control sticks

Post by Mike Betti » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

I was thinking of maybe getting a piece of 1" pipe and bend it with a larger
offset. I think I still have enough to bring the stick closer to me. What do
you think? Al, do you have your old sticks and how much offset did they
have?
Thanks,
Mike Betti
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: Control sticks

Mike:

The situation on the Rebel is quite different from that on the Elite, due
to
the much less recessed panel on the Elite. The angled sections on the
Rebel
are about 45 deg to the main panel, so you absolutely have to cut the
sticks
short. Even with that, you won't get the +/25 deg called for in the
instructions - you get about + 25 and - 16. But that appears to be
enough,
unless you're contemplating some inverted flying - not recommended!

Now, when you look at cutting the sticks, I found that at least on mine,
when I cut the bottom of the stick so the bend starts as soon as the stick
comes out of the column, I couldn't get enough straight stickk at the top
to
accommodate a standard griP. I wound up getting Robin to ship me two
Moose
sticks (which are chrome-moly) with just a single bend, then cut them off
at
an angle and re-welded them so the transition form the angled portion to
the
grip is abupt. That way, I had room for a grip. See pics on Wildcat.
Jack
Wiebe didn't find the same problem, so maybe they have changed the bend
angle a bit.

Al





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Bruce Georgen

Control sticks

Post by Bruce Georgen » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

Mike,

Take the stick to a metal shop and have them bend the stick 3 more inches or do it yourself. I believe MAM also sell a stick with about 3 more inches for those that cut the firewall back 3 inches.

Bruce

-----Original Message-----
From: mbetti@up.net
Sent: Dec 6, 2005 1:45 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Control sticks


Hi again,
What's the concensus on the control sticks. They definately hit the panel now and I am not sure after rigging elevator if that can be avoided. Is there any problem with cutting them off shorter as far as controlling the airplane? Or maybe bending the grip end toward the pilot leaving the stick angled?
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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Ken

Control sticks

Post by Ken » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

For a moved firewall Rebel that stick from MAM with the extra offset
works and can be made to provide full elevator travel but I still had to
shorten the top. Cutting the top off and welding it with a sharp angle
as was mentioned here would work even better. Helicopters tend to do
that. I can measure the offset tomorrow if you like but it is about 3"
or 3.5".
Ken

Bruce Georgen wrote:
Mike,

Take the stick to a metal shop and have them bend the stick 3 more inches or do it yourself. I believe MAM also sell a stick with about 3 more inches for those that cut the firewall back 3 inches.

Bruce

-----Original Message-----
From: mbetti@up.net
Sent: Dec 6, 2005 1:45 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Control sticks


Hi again,
What's the concensus on the control sticks. They definately hit the panel now and I am not sure after rigging elevator if that can be avoided. Is there any problem with cutting them off shorter as far as controlling the airplane? Or maybe bending the grip end toward the pilot leaving the stick angled?
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E






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Alan Hepburn

Control sticks

Post by Alan Hepburn » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

Mike:

Sorry, I can't find the old sticks. I did, in fact get two sets of sticks
with the kit. I did find one of the ones with the smaller offset, and these
are presumably standard Rebel sticks. The offset is 2 1/8". The ones I
tried to use were considerably more - say about 3". The ones I currently
use, shown in the archive (you have looked at this, I trust?), have the
identical offset, but were changed only to accommodate a grip without it
going on the the curved portion. With the PTT switch on top, I have about
1/8" clearance from the panel. I did put the headset jacks just below the
panel at the doorposts without interference, but agree that behind the seats
might be better, especially for floatplanes.

Al





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mbetti

Control sticks

Post by mbetti » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:30 pm

Thanks Al,
I looked at your pics several times now. I was curious with the talk here of MAM maybe changed the offset in the stick and if mine was different than your original.
Anyway, are your sticks now below the panel face? The pics look like it. You say 1/8 away but I didn't know if you mean from the top of stick or front to panel.
Thanks,
Mike

On Wed, 7 Dec 2005 08:01:47 -0500, rebel-builders@dcsol.com said:
Mike:

Sorry, I can't find the old sticks. I did, in fact get two sets of sticks
with the kit. I did find one of the ones with the smaller offset, and these
are presumably standard Rebel sticks. The offset is 2 1/8". The ones I
tried to use were considerably more - say about 3". The ones I currently
use, shown in the archive (you have looked at this, I trust?), have the
identical offset, but were changed only to accommodate a grip without it
going on the the curved portion. With the PTT switch on top, I have about
1/8" clearance from the panel. I did put the headset jacks just below the
panel at the doorposts without interference, but agree that behind the seats
might be better, especially for floatplanes.

Al





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Alan Hepburn

Control sticks

Post by Alan Hepburn » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:30 pm

Mike:

The stick can now does not touch the panel, or the headphone jack brackets,
or the central console, at any point in its travel. The closest it comes to
the lower edge of the panel on its way forward is 1/8", and that is between
the housing for the PTT switch and the panel. I used the RAC G101 grip from
ACS.

Al





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mbetti

Control sticks

Post by mbetti » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:30 pm

Ok thanks,
I measured my sticks lastnight and they have a 6" offset in the bends, this puts the end of the raw stick with no grip just clearing my electrical switches directly in front of the stick but hitting the angled part of panel.
Mike Betti
771E

On Thu, 8 Dec 2005 07:54:10 -0500, rebel-builders@dcsol.com said:
Mike:

The stick can now does not touch the panel, or the headphone jack brackets,
or the central console, at any point in its travel. The closest it comes to
the lower edge of the panel on its way forward is 1/8", and that is between
the housing for the PTT switch and the panel. I used the RAC G101 grip from
ACS.

Al





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Alan Hepburn

Control sticks

Post by Alan Hepburn » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:30 pm

Mike:

I'm not in a position to measure mine, as the airplane is in the paint shop,
but that sounds like considerably more offset than mine had. You can
estimate this by looking at the photo. However, you have to think about how
far back the stick can come without getting hung up on the crown jewels.

Al





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Wayne G. O'Shea

Control sticks

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:30 pm

I was going to comment on that. The 3 inch offset sticks are hard enough on
the "jewels" with even thin seat foam. Can't imagine a 6" offset in the
stick...and how much that is going to hurt shoving it 3" thru your pants to
get a three point landing performed!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: Control sticks

Mike:

I'm not in a position to measure mine, as the airplane is in the paint
shop,
but that sounds like considerably more offset than mine had. You can
estimate this by looking at the photo. However, you have to think about
how
far back the stick can come without getting hung up on the crown jewels.

Al





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Mike Betti

Control sticks

Post by Mike Betti » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:30 pm

: (

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: Control sticks

I was going to comment on that. The 3 inch offset sticks are hard enough on
the "jewels" with even thin seat foam. Can't imagine a 6" offset in the
stick...and how much that is going to hurt shoving it 3" thru your pants
to
get a three point landing performed!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: Control sticks

Mike:

I'm not in a position to measure mine, as the airplane is in the paint
shop,
but that sounds like considerably more offset than mine had. You can
estimate this by looking at the photo. However, you have to think about
how
far back the stick can come without getting hung up on the crown jewels.

Al





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