Elevator cables

[Ralph Baker]

We are planning installation of the elevator cables in our Elite and the MAM supplied cable guides / hat section covers seem lacking. They have you rivet both down permanently. How do they expect to do an annual cable inspection or replace cable guides?

We already are planning one pulley at the forward end for the top cable where it makes an angle of about 10 degrees with the floor. I am considering running the cables in 1/2" white PVC water pipe which would allow the cables to be disconnected and pulled out of the pipes at one end for inspection. It seems the plastic would not introduce excessive friction and would spread out the cable wear. A new, slightly deeper, "hat section" would have to be made. The pipes would be secured at each end with Adel clamps. That way the "hat sections" could be riveted in and the pipe replaced, if ever required, by fishing it out the back end.

Am I overly concerned about inspection and maintenance ease? Has anyone else come up with a better solution to elevator cable routing?

Thanks for your assistance,
Ralph Baker
Elite 624E (reserved)

[LisaFly99]

In a message dated 10/15/02 11:28:39 PM Central Daylight Time, rebaker@ftc-i.net writes:

We are planning installation of the elevator cables in our Elite and the MAM supplied cable guides / hat section covers seem lacking. They have you rivet both down permanently. How do they expect to do an annual cable inspection or replace cable guides?

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[Robert and Olga Johnson]

Hi Ralph and Susan. I had similar thoughts when I was doing my elevator cables as well. My solution-I screwed the covers down with stainless steel sheet metal screws, each with a small dip in lock tight, as also I did my tail, all fairings and wing tips. To this date, and I just finished doing my annual at 90.4 hours, not one screw had come loose. Call me cheap, but it was inexpensive and they are easily removable. Just do not use a power screw driver to install. Bob & Olga Rebel "652"- (P.S. We hope to fly down and visit your project come spring.)

[Falcon]

VELCRO them down
Ralph Baker wrote:

We are planning installation of the elevator cables in our Elite and the MAM supplied cable guides / hat section covers seem lacking. They have you rivet both down permanently. How do they expect to do an annual cable inspection or replace cable guides? We already are planning one pulley at the forward end for the top cable where it makes an angle of about 10 degrees with the floor. I am considering running the cables in 1/2" white PVC water pipe which would allow the cables to be disconnected and pulled out of the pipes at one end for inspection. It seems the plastic would not introduce excessive friction and would spread out the cable wear. A new, slightly deeper, "hat section" would have to be made. The pipes would be secured at each end with Adel clamps. That way the "hat sections" could be riveted in and the pipe replaced, if ever required, by fishing it out the back end. Am I overly concerned about inspection and maintenance ease? Has anyone else come up with a better solution to elevator cable routing? Thanks for your assistance,Ralph BakerElite 624E (reserved)

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

You and Ken should start writing the builders manual !!!!!!!!!!!!

:>)
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: Falcon (rsdec1@isp01.net)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: Elevator cables


VELCRO them down
Ralph Baker wrote:

We are planning installation of the elevator cables in our Elite and the MAM supplied cable guides / hat section covers seem lacking. They have you rivet both down permanently. How do they expect to do an annual cable inspection or replace cable guides? We already are planning one pulley at the forward end for the top cable where it makes an angle of about 10 degrees with the floor. I am considering running the cables in 1/2" white PVC water pipe which would allow the cables to be disconnected and pulled out of the pipes at one end for inspection. It seems the plastic would not introduce excessive friction and would spread out the cable wear. A new, slightly deeper, "hat section" would have to be made. The pipes would be secured at each end with Adel clamps. That way the "hat sections" could be riveted in and the pipe replaced, if ever required, by fishing it out the back end. Am I overly concerned about inspection and maintenance ease? Has anyone else come up with a better solution to elevator cable routing? Thanks for your assistance,Ralph BakerElite 624E (reserved)

[Bob Patterson]

Hi Ralph !

I wouldn't worry too much about guide wear - over 10 years
and over 1,000 hours, and the cables were just a bit shinier near
the Delrin guides, and the guides looked like new ! Guess that's
why they use Delrin !! :-)

If you want an easy way to check, just re-make the hat
section out of 3/32" Lexan - then you can look through !! I'm
becoming a real fan of Lexan for fairings - it's MUCH more workable
than aluminum, and, because you can see through it, you avoid all
that hassle of blind drilling and back drilling - just position
and drill right through ! It takes a LOT more bending without cracking,
and seems much more durable... You can always paint it, leaving
a piece of tape where you want a "window". ;-)

.....bobp

----------------------------------orig.-------------------------------
At 11:10 PM 10/15/02 -0400, you wrote:

We are planning installation of the elevator cables in our Elite and the

MAM supplied cable guides / hat section covers seem lacking. They have you
rivet both down permanently. How do they expect to do an annual cable
inspection or replace cable guides?

We already are planning one pulley at the forward end for the top cable

where it makes an angle of about 10 degrees with the floor. I am
considering running the cables in 1/2" white PVC water pipe which would
allow the cables to be disconnected and pulled out of the pipes at one end
for inspection. It seems the plastic would not introduce excessive friction
and would spread out the cable wear. A new, slightly deeper, "hat section"
would have to be made. The pipes would be secured at each end with Adel
clamps. That way the "hat sections" could be riveted in and the pipe
replaced, if ever required, by fishing it out the back end.

Am I overly concerned about inspection and maintenance ease? Has anyone

else come up with a better solution to elevator cable routing?

Thanks for your assistance,
Ralph Baker
Elite 624E (reserved)<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0

Transitional//EN">

<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
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<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>We are planning installation of the elevator

cables

in our Elite and the MAM supplied cable guides / hat section covers seem
lacking.&nbsp; They have you rivet both down permanently.&nbsp; How do they
expect to do an annual cable inspection or replace cable guides?&nbsp;
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>We already are planning one pulley at the forward
end for the top cable where it makes an angle of about 10 degrees with the
floor.&nbsp; I am considering running the cables in 1/2" white PVC water pipe
which would allow the cables to be disconnected and pulled out of the pipes at
one end for inspection.&nbsp; It seems the plastic would not introduce

excessive

friction and would spread out the cable wear.&nbsp; A new, slightly
deeper,&nbsp;"hat section" would have to be made.&nbsp; The pipes would be
secured at each end with Adel clamps.&nbsp; That way the "hat sections"
could&nbsp;be riveted in and the pipe replaced, if ever required, by

fishing it

out the back end.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Am I overly concerned about inspection and
maintenance ease?&nbsp; Has anyone else come up with a better solution to
elevator cable routing?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks for your assistance,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ralph Baker</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Elite 624E (reserved)</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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[Rebflyer]

Hi Ralph,
When I installed my covers I was worried about the hat section maybe getting collapsed from cargo, and the inspection of the cables, as you also seem to be. My solution was to find the lightest schedule 11/2 pipe I could, cut it in half and then riveted straps to the inside with tabs outside. I chose to use rivnuts to anchor them. Just one tab on each end. I have found that if you use rivnuts where you can't use clip tabs, a dab of the green locktite seems to really help with them staying in place. I been through 3 annuals now with no problems from them. Oh, the pipe I used was the pipe that's used in central vac systems. My carpet glued nicely to it also. Keepo at it, it's worth it. Curt N97MR

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[Ian Donaldson]

G'day Curt


Just how did you manage to accurately cut a pipe along it's length?

Regards


Ian Donaldson

. My solution was to find the lightest schedule 11/2 pipe I could, cut it in half and then riveted straps to the inside with tabs outside

[Rebflyer]

Hi Ian,
Well, I first held the pipe in position and with a straight edge bumped against it I marked a line to follow while cutting similar to the description given for aligning the torque tubes. I then clamped two pieces of wood to the table to hold the center line, then fed the pipe through the bandsaw following the mark. seemed to work well, and even with that the schedule of pipe I was using flexed to allow for a little twist. Curt N97MR



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[Ian Donaldson]

G'day Curt

Well that's not too hard. Unfortunately I do not have a band saw so I guess
that I will improvise.


Regards

Hi Ian,
Well, I first held the pipe in position and with a straight edge bumped

against it I marked a line to follow while cutting similar to the
description given for aligning the torque tubes. I then clamped two pieces
of wood to the table to hold the center line, then fed the pipe through the
bandsaw following the mark. seemed to work well, and even with that the
schedule of pipe I was using flexed to allow for a little twist. Curt N97MR





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[Mike Betti]

Hi,
How many fairleads should there be under the cover for the elevator cables? Am I right in assuming that once the cover goes on there is no access to monitoring the fairleads for inspection? The manual doesn't say, but shouldn't there be a pulley where the top cable enters the tunnel?
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Mike...I always use a pulley to bring the top cable off the column down
quicker and into the cable cover. This is also important if you have plans
to mount an amphib hand pump between the seats.

What do you mean there is no access to monitor the fairleads (that never
wear)?? Use sheet metal screws, or rivnuts and machine screws, every 10
inches to a foot to hold the cover. Bob White's was absolute nonsense, that
he bought out of California, with rivets every inch and a half the full
length (and of course we needed to pull it up!). You'd think the builder
thought he was reinforcing the lower fus for a tail hook using the cable
cover! LOL

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2005 7:43 PM
Subject: Elevator cables

Hi,
How many fairleads should there be under the cover for the elevator

cables? Am I right in assuming that once the cover goes on there is no
access to monitoring the fairleads for inspection? The manual doesn't say,
but shouldn't there be a pulley where the top cable enters the tunnel?

Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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[Mike Betti]

Thanks for the tip, I would of reinforced the floor before I was done
installing that cover.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2005 6:52 PM
Subject: Re: Elevator cables

Mike...I always use a pulley to bring the top cable off the column down
quicker and into the cable cover. This is also important if you have plans
to mount an amphib hand pump between the seats.

What do you mean there is no access to monitor the fairleads (that never
wear)?? Use sheet metal screws, or rivnuts and machine screws, every 10
inches to a foot to hold the cover. Bob White's was absolute nonsense,
that
he bought out of California, with rivets every inch and a half the full
length (and of course we needed to pull it up!). You'd think the builder
thought he was reinforcing the lower fus for a tail hook using the cable
cover! LOL

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2005 7:43 PM
Subject: Elevator cables

Hi,
How many fairleads should there be under the cover for the elevator

cables? Am I right in assuming that once the cover goes on there is no
access to monitoring the fairleads for inspection? The manual doesn't say,
but shouldn't there be a pulley where the top cable enters the tunnel?

Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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[Alan Hepburn]

Mike:

I have a fairlead at the front on the "up" cable, and fairleads on both
around the seatbelt att. point, at the kink in the floor, and at the rear
edge of the baggage compartment. You're right, on the standard Murphy
installation, you need a pulley for the "down" cable about 9" behind the
control column. However, I took this cable forward round a 3" pulley
mounted to the firewall, and back to the lower horn on the control column.
No cable to trip over, and the cable loop doesn't vary in length with stick
position. Jack Wiebe has emulated, and is very satisfied with this
arrangement.

I also have my float hydraulic lines and battery cable in that channel, so
mine is 6" wide. I riveted two pices of Canadian Tire 3/4"Al angle to the
floor, and made a removable flanged cover held in place with sheet metal
screws and Tinnermann clip nuts. Again, this works really well and
everything is inspectable. If you're going to have floats (are you?), the
water rudder retract handle can go on top. I think there are pics on
Wildcat.

Regards, Al





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[Jesse Jenks]

Al and others,
I brought this up before, but I'm still wondering why nobody has done a
complete under-floor elevator cable setup. You obviously put some thought
into your installation, and I think it looks great.
Did you consider under-floor cables, and if so why did you decide against
it?
Jesse

From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Elevator cables
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 08:05:42 -0500

Mike:

I have a fairlead at the front on the "up" cable, and fairleads on both
around the seatbelt att. point, at the kink in the floor, and at the rear
edge of the baggage compartment. You're right, on the standard Murphy
installation, you need a pulley for the "down" cable about 9" behind the
control column. However, I took this cable forward round a 3" pulley
mounted to the firewall, and back to the lower horn on the control column.
No cable to trip over, and the cable loop doesn't vary in length with stick
position. Jack Wiebe has emulated, and is very satisfied with this
arrangement.

I also have my float hydraulic lines and battery cable in that channel, so
mine is 6" wide. I riveted two pices of Canadian Tire 3/4"Al angle to the
floor, and made a removable flanged cover held in place with sheet metal
screws and Tinnermann clip nuts. Again, this works really well and
everything is inspectable. If you're going to have floats (are you?), the
water rudder retract handle can go on top. I think there are pics on
Wildcat.

Regards, Al





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