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wing flipping

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
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Jesse Jenks

wing flipping

Post by Jesse Jenks » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

I am half way through my second wing and wondering if it is really necessary
to flip the wing as many times as the manual says. I cut it down some the
first time, but now I'm wondering why for example they want you to not drill
the holes along the main and rear spars (I already drilled the rear spar
anyway, not seeing any reason not to) on the bottom skin before turning
the wing to start with the top skin. If you have the wing perfectly leveled,
why not drill the mail spar? You have to do it sometime right? I haven't
counted, but it seems that the manual would have you flip about 5 or 6
times. I made a turning jig and I can do it solo, but it's still a pain
without the LE skin on.
Thanks
Jesse





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gene sullivan

wing flipping

Post by gene sullivan » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

Jesse,
I am interested in how you built the jig to rotate the wing. Do you have any
photos or a diagram of how you did it that I might see.
Gene Sullivan
Elite builder

-------Original Message-------

From: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: 12/01/05 19:33:03
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: wing flipping

I am half way through my second wing and wondering if it is really necessary
to flip the wing as many times as the manual says. I cut it down some the
first time, but now I'm wondering why for example they want you to not drill
the holes along the main and rear spars (I already drilled the rear spar
anyway, not seeing any reason not to) on the bottom skin before turning
the wing to start with the top skin. If you have the wing perfectly leveled,
why not drill the mail spar? You have to do it sometime right? I haven't
counted, but it seems that the manual would have you flip about 5 or 6
times. I made a turning jig and I can do it solo, but it's still a pain
without the LE skin on.
Thanks
Jesse





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Mike Kimball

wing flipping

Post by Mike Kimball » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

In case anybody is interested in a "keep it simple" method of flipping the
wing, I simply put an eye bolt in the ceiling (in a stud) at each end of the
table and eyebolts in each end of the table. I attached a rope to the wing
through the attach fittings at the root and through the end rib and around
the part of the rear spar that sticks out at the tip. Then pass the rope up
through the ceiling eyebolt, lift the wing one end at a time, then tie off
at the eyebolts attached to the ends of the table. Then you can carefully
flip the wing. The end rib at the wing tip got a couple of minor crimps
that bent back just fine when I was done.

Mike Kimball

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of gene
sullivan
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 7:21 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: wing flipping

Jesse,
I am interested in how you built the jig to rotate the wing. Do you have any
photos or a diagram of how you did it that I might see.
Gene Sullivan
Elite builder

-------Original Message-------

From: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: 12/01/05 19:33:03
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: wing flipping

I am half way through my second wing and wondering if it is really necessary
to flip the wing as many times as the manual says. I cut it down some the
first time, but now I'm wondering why for example they want you to not drill
the holes along the main and rear spars (I already drilled the rear spar
anyway, not seeing any reason not to) on the bottom skin before turning
the wing to start with the top skin. If you have the wing perfectly leveled,
why not drill the mail spar? You have to do it sometime right? I haven't
counted, but it seems that the manual would have you flip about 5 or 6
times. I made a turning jig and I can do it solo, but it's still a pain
without the LE skin on.
Thanks
Jesse





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Jesse Jenks

wing flipping

Post by Jesse Jenks » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

Gene,
I copied mine from pictures on Roger Hoffman's' website
tincantimes.dcsol.com. Just a little plywood and a 2X4. I added some 2X2
along the edges that rest on the table to make it more stable when the wing
gets heavy with all the clecos on both sides. I also use a couple pieces of
2X2 screwed temporarily across each side of the cradle to pick up the front
of the main spar when the LE skin is off. Without that the weight of the
whole wing is resting on the front spar when the wing is vertical, and the
LE ribs look like they are about to buckle.
The trick to making it a solo operation is to make the "arms" of the cradle
just the right thickness so they can just slide between the wing and the
tabletop. Don't forget to factor in the thickness of some thin packing foam
or other material to use as a cushion.
I found it very helpful to my sore back to pull some of thousands of rivets
with the wing in the cradle in the vertical position clamped to the table so
it won't fall over. It makes you appreciate the vertical jugs that RV
builders use.
Jesse

From: "gene sullivan" <etinhh@hargray.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: wing flipping
Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2005 23:20:40 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)

Jesse,
I am interested in how you built the jig to rotate the wing. Do you have
any
photos or a diagram of how you did it that I might see.
Gene Sullivan
Elite builder

-------Original Message-------

From: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: 12/01/05 19:33:03
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: wing flipping

I am half way through my second wing and wondering if it is really
necessary
to flip the wing as many times as the manual says. I cut it down some the
first time, but now I'm wondering why for example they want you to not
drill
the holes along the main and rear spars (I already drilled the rear spar
anyway, not seeing any reason not to) on the bottom skin before turning
the wing to start with the top skin. If you have the wing perfectly
leveled,
why not drill the mail spar? You have to do it sometime right? I haven't
counted, but it seems that the manual would have you flip about 5 or 6
times. I made a turning jig and I can do it solo, but it's still a pain
without the LE skin on.
Thanks
Jesse





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gene sullivan

wing flipping

Post by gene sullivan » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

Jesse,
Thanks for the input but I could not access Roger Hoffman's website, what is
it's url? I tried "tincantimes.dcsol.com" but no luck.
Gene

-------Original Message-------

From: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: 12/02/05 12:39:08
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: wing flipping

Gene,
I copied mine from pictures on Roger Hoffman's' website
tincantimes.dcsol.com. Just a little plywood and a 2X4. I added some 2X2
along the edges that rest on the table to make it more stable when the wing
gets heavy with all the clecos on both sides. I also use a couple pieces of
2X2 screwed temporarily across each side of the cradle to pick up the front
of the main spar when the LE skin is off. Without that the weight of the
whole wing is resting on the front spar when the wing is vertical, and the
LE ribs look like they are about to buckle.
The trick to making it a solo operation is to make the "arms" of the cradle
just the right thickness so they can just slide between the wing and the
tabletop. Don't forget to factor in the thickness of some thin packing foam
or other material to use as a cushion.
I found it very helpful to my sore back to pull some of thousands of rivets
with the wing in the cradle in the vertical position clamped to the table so
it won't fall over. It makes you appreciate the vertical jugs that RV
builders use.
Jesse

From: "gene sullivan" <etinhh@hargray.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: wing flipping
Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2005 23:20:40 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)

Jesse,
I am interested in how you built the jig to rotate the wing. Do you have
any
photos or a diagram of how you did it that I might see.
Gene Sullivan
Elite builder

-------Original Message-------

From: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: 12/01/05 19:33:03
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: wing flipping

I am half way through my second wing and wondering if it is really
necessary
to flip the wing as many times as the manual says. I cut it down some the
first time, but now I'm wondering why for example they want you to not
drill
the holes along the main and rear spars (I already drilled the rear spar
anyway, not seeing any reason not to) on the bottom skin before turning
the wing to start with the top skin. If you have the wing perfectly
leveled,
why not drill the mail spar? You have to do it sometime right? I haven't
counted, but it seems that the manual would have you flip about 5 or 6
times. I made a turning jig and I can do it solo, but it's still a pain
without the LE skin on.
Thanks
Jesse





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Mike Davis

wing flipping

Post by Mike Davis » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

That's the right address Gene, not sure why it didn't work for you...
http://tincantimes.dcsol.com

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "gene sullivan" <etinhh@hargray.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: wing flipping

Jesse,
Thanks for the input but I could not access Roger Hoffman's website, what
is
it's url? I tried "tincantimes.dcsol.com" but no luck.
Gene

-------Original Message-------

From: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: 12/02/05 12:39:08
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: wing flipping

Gene,
I copied mine from pictures on Roger Hoffman's' website
tincantimes.dcsol.com. Just a little plywood and a 2X4. I added some 2X2
along the edges that rest on the table to make it more stable when the
wing
gets heavy with all the clecos on both sides. I also use a couple pieces
of
2X2 screwed temporarily across each side of the cradle to pick up the
front
of the main spar when the LE skin is off. Without that the weight of the
whole wing is resting on the front spar when the wing is vertical, and the
LE ribs look like they are about to buckle.
The trick to making it a solo operation is to make the "arms" of the
cradle
just the right thickness so they can just slide between the wing and the
tabletop. Don't forget to factor in the thickness of some thin packing
foam
or other material to use as a cushion.
I found it very helpful to my sore back to pull some of thousands of
rivets
with the wing in the cradle in the vertical position clamped to the table
so
it won't fall over. It makes you appreciate the vertical jugs that RV
builders use.
Jesse

From: "gene sullivan" <etinhh@hargray.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: wing flipping
Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2005 23:20:40 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)

Jesse,
I am interested in how you built the jig to rotate the wing. Do you have
any
photos or a diagram of how you did it that I might see.
Gene Sullivan
Elite builder

-------Original Message-------

From: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: 12/01/05 19:33:03
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: wing flipping

I am half way through my second wing and wondering if it is really
necessary
to flip the wing as many times as the manual says. I cut it down some the
first time, but now I'm wondering why for example they want you to not
drill
the holes along the main and rear spars (I already drilled the rear spar
anyway, not seeing any reason not to) on the bottom skin before turning
the wing to start with the top skin. If you have the wing perfectly
leveled,
why not drill the mail spar? You have to do it sometime right? I haven't
counted, but it seems that the manual would have you flip about 5 or 6
times. I made a turning jig and I can do it solo, but it's still a pain
without the LE skin on.
Thanks
Jesse





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gene sullivan

wing flipping

Post by gene sullivan » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:29 pm

Problem solved, iused "www" rather than http.
Thanks Jesse
Gene

-------Original Message-------

From: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: 12/02/05 16:34:15
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: wing flipping

That's the right address Gene, not sure why it didn't work for you...
http://tincantimes.dcsol.com

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "gene sullivan" <etinhh@hargray.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: wing flipping

Jesse,
Thanks for the input but I could not access Roger Hoffman's website, what
is
it's url? I tried "tincantimes.dcsol.com" but no luck.
Gene

-------Original Message-------

From: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: 12/02/05 12:39:08
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: wing flipping

Gene,
I copied mine from pictures on Roger Hoffman's' website
tincantimes.dcsol.com. Just a little plywood and a 2X4. I added some 2X2
along the edges that rest on the table to make it more stable when the
wing
gets heavy with all the clecos on both sides. I also use a couple pieces
of
2X2 screwed temporarily across each side of the cradle to pick up the
front
of the main spar when the LE skin is off. Without that the weight of the
whole wing is resting on the front spar when the wing is vertical, and the
LE ribs look like they are about to buckle.
The trick to making it a solo operation is to make the "arms" of the
cradle
just the right thickness so they can just slide between the wing and the
tabletop. Don't forget to factor in the thickness of some thin packing
foam
or other material to use as a cushion.
I found it very helpful to my sore back to pull some of thousands of
rivets
with the wing in the cradle in the vertical position clamped to the table
so
it won't fall over. It makes you appreciate the vertical jugs that RV
builders use.
Jesse

From: "gene sullivan" <etinhh@hargray.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: wing flipping
Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2005 23:20:40 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)

Jesse,
I am interested in how you built the jig to rotate the wing. Do you have
any
photos or a diagram of how you did it that I might see.
Gene Sullivan
Elite builder

-------Original Message-------

From: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: 12/01/05 19:33:03
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: wing flipping

I am half way through my second wing and wondering if it is really
necessary
to flip the wing as many times as the manual says. I cut it down some the
first time, but now I'm wondering why for example they want you to not
drill
the holes along the main and rear spars (I already drilled the rear spar
anyway, not seeing any reason not to) on the bottom skin before turning
the wing to start with the top skin. If you have the wing perfectly
leveled,
why not drill the mail spar? You have to do it sometime right? I haven't
counted, but it seems that the manual would have you flip about 5 or 6
times. I made a turning jig and I can do it solo, but it's still a pain
without the LE skin on.
Thanks
Jesse





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Craig Walls

Wing Flipping

Post by Craig Walls » Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:31 pm

Anyone come up with a good way to do solo wing flipping? My neighbors
aren't close by and I don't want to ruin my voluntary pool of help! I did
see one thing on it somewhere but I don't think it was on this site.
Obviously, a pulley in the ceiling will work but attachment point, flex, etc
are concerns. Craig





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rognal

Wing Flipping

Post by rognal » Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:32 pm

Hi Craig,

Take a look at the first 6 photos on this url:
http://tincantimes.dcsol.com/default1.htm

I did all my wing flipping solo on the table top without ropes/pulleys
using this device. It worked well for me.

Roger Hoffman
Eugene, OR USA!






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