Scott 3200 Tailwheel

[rognal]

Some of you may already have this info, but it was news to me so I thought
I'd pass it along just in case anyone else is interested...

I've been contemplating the purchase of a new or used Scott 3200 tailwheel
after reading the discussions in this forum. I contacted WagAero this morning
and was told the Scott 3200 was no longer available. Not just out of stock,
but no longer available.

I contacted Chief Aircraft and was told that the manufacturer of the Scott
tailwheels had sold the company (overseas I think), and that Alaska
Bushwheel, Inc. ( http://www.akbushwheel.com ) was now producing a look alike
Scott 3200. According to Chief Aircraft, Alaska Bushwheel has been producing
most of the parts for the original Scott 3200 tailwheel anyway, so when the
original company was sold, Alaska Bushwheel began manufacture. They are also
making a 'Tundra' conversion kit which includes a larger, wider fork with a
larger, wider tire for the Scott 3200. They have pictures at
http://www.akbushwheel.com/3200TundraTailwheel.html

Chief Aircraft ( http://www.chiefaircraft.com ) is selling the Alaska
Bushwheel Scott 3200 look alike for $938.50. They call it the model ABI 3224A
and it comes with the heavy duty steering arm. Parts are supposed to be
interchangeable between the original Scott 3200's and the Alaska Bushwheel
version.

Aircraft Spruce is advertising the Scott 3200 for $1281.00 USD. A used Scott
3200 just sold on Ebay for $676.66 USD.

Anyone have any positive/negative experience with Alaska Bushwheel products
or the company?

Just FYI

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!









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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

GREAT company and great guys......but they do know that they have a monopoly
now!! unfortunately !!

Glad I have a spare 3200! One for the penetration ski to stay on and one for
straight wheels for an easy change over.

----- Original Message -----
From: <rognal@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 11:46 PM
Subject: Scott 3200 Tailwheel

Some of you may already have this info, but it was news to me so I thought
I'd pass it along just in case anyone else is interested...

I've been contemplating the purchase of a new or used Scott 3200 tailwheel
after reading the discussions in this forum. I contacted WagAero this

morning

and was told the Scott 3200 was no longer available. Not just out of

stock,

but no longer available.

I contacted Chief Aircraft and was told that the manufacturer of the Scott
tailwheels had sold the company (overseas I think), and that Alaska
Bushwheel, Inc. ( http://www.akbushwheel.com ) was now producing a look

alike

Scott 3200. According to Chief Aircraft, Alaska Bushwheel has been

producing

most of the parts for the original Scott 3200 tailwheel anyway, so when

the

original company was sold, Alaska Bushwheel began manufacture. They are

also

making a 'Tundra' conversion kit which includes a larger, wider fork with

a

larger, wider tire for the Scott 3200. They have pictures at
http://www.akbushwheel.com/3200TundraTailwheel.html

Chief Aircraft ( http://www.chiefaircraft.com ) is selling the Alaska
Bushwheel Scott 3200 look alike for $938.50. They call it the model ABI

3224A

and it comes with the heavy duty steering arm. Parts are supposed to be
interchangeable between the original Scott 3200's and the Alaska Bushwheel
version.

Aircraft Spruce is advertising the Scott 3200 for $1281.00 USD. A used

Scott

3200 just sold on Ebay for $676.66 USD.

Anyone have any positive/negative experience with Alaska Bushwheel

products

or the company?

Just FYI

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!









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[IAN DONALDSON]

G'day Wayne and greetings from Australia

I have had a number of unpleasant experiences with the original tail wheel
set up on my Rebel, and after the second ground loop I decided that I would
change the whole set-up and fit a more robust wheel.

I have managed to find a Scott 3200 in mint condition and will fit it to my
Rebel, however I would like to ask you if you , or in fact any listers has
used one, and just how you went about mounting it.

At the moment I am using a single leaf car spring that has replaced the
solid aluminum bar that came with the kit and that works just fine, but as
the Scott wheel is quite a bit bigger and heavier I would like to know how
others have fitted it. My Rebel is the Rotax 100 hp version so it is quite a
bit lighter than the Lycoming versions!

I look forward to some advice.

Regards


Ian Donaldson.

Glad I have a spare 3200! One for the penetration ski to stay on and one
for
straight wheels for an easy change over.

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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

One big 1/2" bolt just like it was designed Ian...unless you have the two
bolt version from a Pawnee. Would suspect you'll need to cut a bit off the
spring you have to get the proper position for the 3200, but shouldn't be a
big deal.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "IAN DONALDSON" <allsure@bigpond.net.au>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: Scott 3200 Tailwheel

G'day Wayne and greetings from Australia

I have had a number of unpleasant experiences with the original tail wheel
set up on my Rebel, and after the second ground loop I decided that I

would

change the whole set-up and fit a more robust wheel.

I have managed to find a Scott 3200 in mint condition and will fit it to

my

Rebel, however I would like to ask you if you , or in fact any listers has
used one, and just how you went about mounting it.

At the moment I am using a single leaf car spring that has replaced the
solid aluminum bar that came with the kit and that works just fine, but as
the Scott wheel is quite a bit bigger and heavier I would like to know how
others have fitted it. My Rebel is the Rotax 100 hp version so it is quite

a

bit lighter than the Lycoming versions!

I look forward to some advice.

Regards


Ian Donaldson.

Glad I have a spare 3200! One for the penetration ski to stay on and one
for
straight wheels for an easy change over.

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[Bob Patterson]

Hi Ian !

I'm very surprised that you had problems with the original
tailwheel - unless you rounded the ends of the locking pin ....
maybe the spring you're using is a bit tooo bouncy ! :-)
The standard factory setup has worked great for me on 3 Rebels,
and many more I've flown - no problems.

I'd be very careful about adding a Scott 3200 to a 912 Rebel !
The C of G is already pretty far back, and 8+ lb. at the tail
could cause serious problems. Would be worth re-calculating to
be safe !

......bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 08 October 2005 08:55 am, IAN DONALDSON wrote:

G'day Wayne and greetings from Australia

I have had a number of unpleasant experiences with the original tail wheel
set up on my Rebel, and after the second ground loop I decided that I

would

change the whole set-up and fit a more robust wheel.

I have managed to find a Scott 3200 in mint condition and will fit it to

my

Rebel, however I would like to ask you if you , or in fact any listers has
used one, and just how you went about mounting it.

At the moment I am using a single leaf car spring that has replaced the
solid aluminum bar that came with the kit and that works just fine, but as
the Scott wheel is quite a bit bigger and heavier I would like to know how
others have fitted it. My Rebel is the Rotax 100 hp version so it is quite

a

bit lighter than the Lycoming versions!

I look forward to some advice.

Regards


Ian Donaldson.

Glad I have a spare 3200! One for the penetration ski to stay on and one
for
straight wheels for an easy change over.

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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

It'll be fine Bob...Had one on the AULA 912 one I did after he delaminated
the fiberglass tail spring and we swapped in a 3 leaf trailer and Scott 3200
TW.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: Scott 3200 Tailwheel

Hi Ian !

I'm very surprised that you had problems with the original
tailwheel - unless you rounded the ends of the locking pin ....
maybe the spring you're using is a bit tooo bouncy ! :-)
The standard factory setup has worked great for me on 3 Rebels,
and many more I've flown - no problems.

I'd be very careful about adding a Scott 3200 to a 912 Rebel !
The C of G is already pretty far back, and 8+ lb. at the tail
could cause serious problems. Would be worth re-calculating to
be safe !

......bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 08 October 2005 08:55 am, IAN DONALDSON wrote:

G'day Wayne and greetings from Australia

I have had a number of unpleasant experiences with the original tail

wheel

set up on my Rebel, and after the second ground loop I decided that I

would

change the whole set-up and fit a more robust wheel.

I have managed to find a Scott 3200 in mint condition and will fit it to

my

Rebel, however I would like to ask you if you , or in fact any listers

has

used one, and just how you went about mounting it.

At the moment I am using a single leaf car spring that has replaced the
solid aluminum bar that came with the kit and that works just fine, but

as

the Scott wheel is quite a bit bigger and heavier I would like to know

how

others have fitted it. My Rebel is the Rotax 100 hp version so it is

quite

a

bit lighter than the Lycoming versions!

I look forward to some advice.

Regards


Ian Donaldson.

Glad I have a spare 3200! One for the penetration ski to stay on and

one

for
straight wheels for an easy change over.

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[IAN DONALDSON]

G'day bobp

Thanks for your response.

I'm glad to learn that you have had a successful time with your standard
Murphy tailwheel, but I can't say the same about mine! :-(

Here are some of the problems encountered so far.
The rivets in the tail cone sheared due to the rigidity of the factory
supplied aluminium "spring."
The two 1/8' roll pins that hold the cam plate have broken on two occasions.
The cams on locking mechanism have worn down so quickly that I have had to
build them up with weld twice.
The 1/8" pins that holds the wheel fork to the central spindle sheared. This
meant that the wheel was uncontrollable.
The aluminum housing is now worn so badly that I will have to put a bush in
it to take up the slack on the central spindle.

All these problems have arisen despite me being diligent in maintenance and
greasing as needed. Maybe the problems that I have encountered with the
wheel are perhaps due to our Australian conditions, but as far as I am
concerned the quality of the Murphy wheel is definitely not acceptable.

I regards to the replacement spring, I don't know what you mean by "a bit
too bouncy" or what difference that it would make to the operation of the
wheel. The spring that I am using now seems to be OK and it is certainly
much kinder to the rear of the rebel than the standard "spring".

I am aware of the weight difference and will do a new weight and balance
calculation before making the change to the Scott. Would you know what the
weight of a standard wheel is? I could then do my W&B calculations at home
before pulling the wheel off my Rebel.

regards


Ian Donaldson

I'm very surprised that you had problems with the original
tailwheel - unless you rounded the ends of the locking pin ....
maybe the spring you're using is a bit tooo bouncy ! :-)
The standard factory setup has worked great for me on 3 Rebels,
and many more I've flown - no problems.

I'd be very careful about adding a Scott 3200 to a 912 Rebel !
The C of G is already pretty far back, and 8+ lb. at the tail
could cause serious problems. Would be worth re-calculating to
be safe !

......bobp

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[IAN DONALDSON]

G'day Wayne.

I'm glad to hear that the standard Rebel could cope with a Scott tailwheel.
I have had a few problems with the setup that I have and I don't won't to
wreck my airplane because of a dodgy tailwheel!

I would like to know how you went about doing the springing. Did you attach
it to the Rebel in the standard factory manner?

Thanks and regards

Ian Donaldson

It'll be fine Bob...Had one on the AULA 912 one I did after he delaminated
the fiberglass tail spring and we swapped in a 3 leaf trailer and Scott
3200
TW.

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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Ian...as I said all you should have to do is cut off your present spring an
inch or so to get the 3200 to sit properly and bolt it on with a single 1/2"
bolt. I use a three leaf trailer spring and sounds like you have a single
leaf steel spring. How thick is your spring???? as my three leaf is the same
overall thickness as the old alum one.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "IAN DONALDSON" <allsure@bigpond.net.au>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 9:40 PM
Subject: Re: Scott 3200 Tailwheel

G'day Wayne.

I'm glad to hear that the standard Rebel could cope with a Scott

tailwheel.

I have had a few problems with the setup that I have and I don't won't to
wreck my airplane because of a dodgy tailwheel!

I would like to know how you went about doing the springing. Did you

attach

it to the Rebel in the standard factory manner?

Thanks and regards

Ian Donaldson

It'll be fine Bob...Had one on the AULA 912 one I did after he

delaminated

the fiberglass tail spring and we swapped in a 3 leaf trailer and Scott
3200
TW.

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[IAN DONALDSON]

G'day Wayne


I guess that the spring I am using is about 5/16" or so. I just had holes
drilled in the spring to take the bolts before the spring was annealed. I
don't imagine how I could drill the spring now it is annealed.

Is there any advantage to using 3 springs over just one?

regards

Ian

Ian...as I said all you should have to do is cut off your present spring
an
inch or so to get the 3200 to sit properly and bolt it on with a single
1/2"
bolt. I use a three leaf trailer spring and sounds like you have a single
leaf steel spring. How thick is your spring???? as my three leaf is the
same
overall thickness as the old alum one.

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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

My three spring has a 750 lb rating (or about 12 g's) if I remember right.
If your spring seems to ride fine and holds the tail up on your lighter
Rotax powered machine you should be alright if you keep your Gross weight
down. Mark the spot for the hole and use an end mill and lots of fluid if
you have trouble drilling the mounting hole.

----- Original Message -----
From: "IAN DONALDSON" <allsure@bigpond.net.au>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: Scott 3200 Tailwheel

G'day Wayne


I guess that the spring I am using is about 5/16" or so. I just had holes
drilled in the spring to take the bolts before the spring was annealed. I
don't imagine how I could drill the spring now it is annealed.

Is there any advantage to using 3 springs over just one?

regards

Ian

Ian...as I said all you should have to do is cut off your present spring
an
inch or so to get the 3200 to sit properly and bolt it on with a single
1/2"
bolt. I use a three leaf trailer spring and sounds like you have a

single

leaf steel spring. How thick is your spring???? as my three leaf is the
same
overall thickness as the old alum one.

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[Ken]

Hi Ian
I've never tried an end mill but I have drilled through trailer springs
(after all heat treatment) with cheap concrete bits in a drill press.
The carbide tips are not really meant for this but will often make it
through a hole or two. The hole may be larger than the bit so a slightly
smaller bit and perhaps a bit of grinding with a dremel might be
necessary. A fairly slow speed and putting through a 3/16" bit first may
help.
Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

My three spring has a 750 lb rating (or about 12 g's) if I remember right.
If your spring seems to ride fine and holds the tail up on your lighter
Rotax powered machine you should be alright if you keep your Gross weight
down. Mark the spot for the hole and use an end mill and lots of fluid if
you have trouble drilling the mounting hole.

----- Original Message -----
From: "IAN DONALDSON" <allsure@bigpond.net.au>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: Scott 3200 Tailwheel

G'day Wayne


I guess that the spring I am using is about 5/16" or so. I just had holes
drilled in the spring to take the bolts before the spring was annealed. I
don't imagine how I could drill the spring now it is annealed.

Is there any advantage to using 3 springs over just one?

regards

Ian

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[IAN DONALDSON]

G'day Ken

Thanks for that information. I don't have easy access to a milling machine,
but I do have a drill press.

I have heard that you should reshape the carbide bit before use, so I will
experiment. there is not much to lose. If I screw it up the worst that I
will have to do is make another spring!

I will give it a try.

Thanks and regards


Ian Donaldson

Hi Ian
I've never tried an end mill but I have drilled through trailer springs
(after all heat treatment) with cheap concrete bits in a drill press.
The carbide tips are not really meant for this but will often make it
through a hole or two. The hole may be larger than the bit so a slightly
smaller bit and perhaps a bit of grinding with a dremel might be
necessary. A fairly slow speed and putting through a 3/16" bit first may
help.

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[bransom]

I have drilled through heat treated 4130 tubing (heat treated to Rockwell
#45) with even just a cobalt bit. This was surprisingly much more do-able
than I expected, and the cobalt bit was not even trashed in the process. Not
sure if your heat treated leaf material is tougher but even so, cobalt bits
are still fairly inexpensive and may be worth a try. (use oil, pressure, and
slow speed of course)
-Ben

G'day Ken

Thanks for that information. I don't have easy access to a milling machine,
but I do have a drill press.

I have heard that you should reshape the carbide bit before use, so I will
experiment. there is not much to lose. If I screw it up the worst that I
will have to do is make another spring!

I will give it a try.

Thanks and regards


Ian Donaldson

Hi Ian
I've never tried an end mill but I have drilled through trailer springs
(after all heat treatment) with cheap concrete bits in a drill press.
The carbide tips are not really meant for this but will often make it
through a hole or two. The hole may be larger than the bit so a slightly
smaller bit and perhaps a bit of grinding with a dremel might be
necessary. A fairly slow speed and putting through a 3/16" bit first may
help.

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[Drew Dalgleish]

Just finished repairing my MAM tailwheel. 2 broken roll pins in the cam
plate replaced with cut off drill bits. Reversed the brass locking pin as
it's showing a lot of wear and if I keep this tailwheel it will need the
housing bushed before to long to take up the slop.

Thanks for your response.

I'm glad to learn that you have had a successful time with your standard
Murphy tailwheel, but I can't say the same about mine! :-(

Here are some of the problems encountered so far.
The rivets in the tail cone sheared due to the rigidity of the factory
supplied aluminium "spring."
The two 1/8' roll pins that hold the cam plate have broken on two occasions.
The cams on locking mechanism have worn down so quickly that I have had to
build them up with weld twice.
The 1/8" pins that holds the wheel fork to the central spindle sheared. This
meant that the wheel was uncontrollable.
The aluminum housing is now worn so badly that I will have to put a bush in
it to take up the slack on the central spindle.

All these problems have arisen despite me being diligent in maintenance and
greasing as needed. Maybe the problems that I have encountered with the
wheel are perhaps due to our Australian conditions, but as far as I am
concerned the quality of the Murphy wheel is definitely not acceptable.

I regards to the replacement spring, I don't know what you mean by "a bit
too bouncy" or what difference that it would make to the operation of the
wheel. The spring that I am using now seems to be OK and it is certainly
much kinder to the rear of the rebel than the standard "spring".

I am aware of the weight difference and will do a new weight and balance
calculation before making the change to the Scott. Would you know what the
weight of a standard wheel is? I could then do my W&B calculations at home
before pulling the wheel off my Rebel.

regards


Ian Donaldson

I'm very surprised that you had problems with the original
tailwheel - unless you rounded the ends of the locking pin ....
maybe the spring you're using is a bit tooo bouncy ! :-)
The standard factory setup has worked great for me on 3 Rebels,
and many more I've flown - no problems.

I'd be very careful about adding a Scott 3200 to a 912 Rebel !
The C of G is already pretty far back, and 8+ lb. at the tail
could cause serious problems. Would be worth re-calculating to
be safe !

......bobp

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Drew





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