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Rebel tailwheel
Rebel tailwheel
G'day
Thanks to those who replied to my questions regarding the operation of the tail wheel.
I think that the chain may be too tight, or as Wayne suggested I might need to move the chain to the outer holes in the horn.
I will try both fixes this weekend.
thanks and regards
Ian Donaldson
Thanks to those who replied to my questions regarding the operation of the tail wheel.
I think that the chain may be too tight, or as Wayne suggested I might need to move the chain to the outer holes in the horn.
I will try both fixes this weekend.
thanks and regards
Ian Donaldson
Rebel tailwheel
Interesting discussion. I got an older kit from Wayne O. It has the old, old
tailwheel mentioned by someone in this thread, with no castoring provisions.
I also got a fiberglass spring. Since nobody responded to the query about
how the old style tailwheel works I will ask again. Any comments on them?
Thanks,
Jesse
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tailwheel mentioned by someone in this thread, with no castoring provisions.
I also got a fiberglass spring. Since nobody responded to the query about
how the old style tailwheel works I will ask again. Any comments on them?
Thanks,
Jesse
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Rebel tailwheel
Hi Jesse !
That would be the old ULTRALIGHT Rebel kit, I guess - it has thinner
spars, thin skins, and an all-fabric tail ... and a low gross weight
(originally 1,057 lb).
You are lucky !! I love the fiberglass springs, and will continue
to use them on my Rebels as long as I can get them !! They absorb shocks
well, and have a very benign failure mode - they delaminate & let you
down slowly..... Much better than steel springs, that just snap !
And infinitely better than the solid chunk of aluminum that now comes
as a "spring" - these can work IF you machine/grind them down to
taper from about 1" thick (!) to under 1/2" at the tailwheel attach end.
You should, of course, do Ontario Mod. #1 - a doubler over FUS-30,
to tie the top bulkhead, rudder post, and front triangular pieces together,
to better distribute the loads. Even if you are building as an ultralight !
This is one area that field experience has provided a 'fix' for - and
it IS necessary !
The old, original tailwheel worked great - Rebel #001 is still flying
with that tailwheel ! It is a bit awkward for ground handling - you can't
push it backwards !! Fortunately, the old tailwheel can be retrofitted to
become a full-swivel wheel, as now shipped. There was an upgrade kit
shipped 'way back about 1993 for this, and all the parts are still available.
This is a worthwhile thing to do - it makes ground handling much easier,
and will reduce the radius of your turns, as well.
What engine are you planning ??
......bobp
PS
If you are not going to use the fiberglass spring, you can toss it
my way ! :-)
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 11 August 2005 12:27 pm, Jesse Jenks wrote:
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That would be the old ULTRALIGHT Rebel kit, I guess - it has thinner
spars, thin skins, and an all-fabric tail ... and a low gross weight
(originally 1,057 lb).
You are lucky !! I love the fiberglass springs, and will continue
to use them on my Rebels as long as I can get them !! They absorb shocks
well, and have a very benign failure mode - they delaminate & let you
down slowly..... Much better than steel springs, that just snap !
And infinitely better than the solid chunk of aluminum that now comes
as a "spring" - these can work IF you machine/grind them down to
taper from about 1" thick (!) to under 1/2" at the tailwheel attach end.
You should, of course, do Ontario Mod. #1 - a doubler over FUS-30,
to tie the top bulkhead, rudder post, and front triangular pieces together,
to better distribute the loads. Even if you are building as an ultralight !
This is one area that field experience has provided a 'fix' for - and
it IS necessary !
The old, original tailwheel worked great - Rebel #001 is still flying
with that tailwheel ! It is a bit awkward for ground handling - you can't
push it backwards !! Fortunately, the old tailwheel can be retrofitted to
become a full-swivel wheel, as now shipped. There was an upgrade kit
shipped 'way back about 1993 for this, and all the parts are still available.
This is a worthwhile thing to do - it makes ground handling much easier,
and will reduce the radius of your turns, as well.
What engine are you planning ??
......bobp
PS
If you are not going to use the fiberglass spring, you can toss it
my way ! :-)
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 11 August 2005 12:27 pm, Jesse Jenks wrote:
Interesting discussion. I got an older kit from Wayne O. It has the old, old
tailwheel mentioned by someone in this thread, with no castoring provisions.
I also got a fiberglass spring. Since nobody responded to the query about
how the old style tailwheel works I will ask again. Any comments on them?
Thanks,
Jesse
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Rebel tailwheel
Bob,
Now you've gone and done it, confused me again; and you know how easy that
is to do.
My Rebel kit has the fiberglass tail spring and Daryl told me it is the
1650 kit because it includes the extra leading edge rib 1A.
Did I misunderstand that the fiberglass spring denotes ultra-light? Or was
it the combination of non-castering wheel and fiberglass spring?
Mounting the tailwheel is far in my future so I haven't yet studied the
parts carefully.
Interesting and informative discussion thanks to all.
John...369R
At 12:56 PM 08/11/05, you wrote:
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Now you've gone and done it, confused me again; and you know how easy that
is to do.
My Rebel kit has the fiberglass tail spring and Daryl told me it is the
1650 kit because it includes the extra leading edge rib 1A.
Did I misunderstand that the fiberglass spring denotes ultra-light? Or was
it the combination of non-castering wheel and fiberglass spring?
Mounting the tailwheel is far in my future so I haven't yet studied the
parts carefully.
Interesting and informative discussion thanks to all.
John...369R
At 12:56 PM 08/11/05, you wrote:
Hi Jesse !
That would be the old ULTRALIGHT Rebel kit, I guess - it has thinner
spars, thin skins, and an all-fabric tail ... and a low gross weight
(originally 1,057 lb).
You are lucky !! I love the fiberglass springs, and will continue
to use them on my Rebels as long as I can get them !! They absorb shocks
well, and have a very benign failure mode - they delaminate & let you
down slowly..... Much better than steel springs, that just snap !
And infinitely better than the solid chunk of aluminum that now comes
as a "spring" - these can work IF you machine/grind them down to
taper from about 1" thick (!) to under 1/2" at the tailwheel attach end.
You should, of course, do Ontario Mod. #1 - a doubler over FUS-30,
to tie the top bulkhead, rudder post, and front triangular pieces together,
to better distribute the loads. Even if you are building as an ultralight !
This is one area that field experience has provided a 'fix' for - and
it IS necessary !
The old, original tailwheel worked great - Rebel #001 is still flying
with that tailwheel ! It is a bit awkward for ground handling - you can't
push it backwards !! Fortunately, the old tailwheel can be retrofitted to
become a full-swivel wheel, as now shipped. There was an upgrade kit
shipped 'way back about 1993 for this, and all the parts are still available.
This is a worthwhile thing to do - it makes ground handling much easier,
and will reduce the radius of your turns, as well.
What engine are you planning ??
......bobp
PS
If you are not going to use the fiberglass spring, you can toss it
my way ! :-)
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 11 August 2005 12:27 pm, Jesse Jenks wrote:old, oldInteresting discussion. I got an older kit from Wayne O. It has theprovisions.tailwheel mentioned by someone in this thread, with no castoringI also got a fiberglass spring. Since nobody responded to the query about
how the old style tailwheel works I will ask again. Any comments on them?
Thanks,
Jesse
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Rebel tailwheel
Hi John !
Sorry ! Yes, yours IS a 1,650 kit, AND you are one of the lucky
ones who got a fiberglass tail spring ! These WERE standard, until the
supplier quit making them .... :-(
You will also have a full-swivel tailwheel, which you have to
assemble yourself. These are the ones I was saying are perfectly fine,
unless you have a heavy Rebel and prefer the Scott pneumatic wheel & tire.
I was just enquiring if that was the U/L kit that Jesse bought from
Wayne - I know he had a couple of them at one time, 'cause I sold them
to him....
......bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 11 August 2005 03:35 pm, John Kramer wrote:
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Sorry ! Yes, yours IS a 1,650 kit, AND you are one of the lucky
ones who got a fiberglass tail spring ! These WERE standard, until the
supplier quit making them .... :-(
You will also have a full-swivel tailwheel, which you have to
assemble yourself. These are the ones I was saying are perfectly fine,
unless you have a heavy Rebel and prefer the Scott pneumatic wheel & tire.
I was just enquiring if that was the U/L kit that Jesse bought from
Wayne - I know he had a couple of them at one time, 'cause I sold them
to him....
......bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 11 August 2005 03:35 pm, John Kramer wrote:
flyingBob,
Now you've gone and done it, confused me again; and you know how easy that
is to do.
My Rebel kit has the fiberglass tail spring and Daryl told me it is the
1650 kit because it includes the extra leading edge rib 1A.
Did I misunderstand that the fiberglass spring denotes ultra-light? Or was
it the combination of non-castering wheel and fiberglass spring?
Mounting the tailwheel is far in my future so I haven't yet studied the
parts carefully.
Interesting and informative discussion thanks to all.
John...369R
At 12:56 PM 08/11/05, you wrote:
Hi Jesse !
That would be the old ULTRALIGHT Rebel kit, I guess - it has thinner
spars, thin skins, and an all-fabric tail ... and a low gross weight
(originally 1,057 lb).
You are lucky !! I love the fiberglass springs, and will continue
to use them on my Rebels as long as I can get them !! They absorb shocks
well, and have a very benign failure mode - they delaminate & let you
down slowly..... Much better than steel springs, that just snap !
And infinitely better than the solid chunk of aluminum that now comes
as a "spring" - these can work IF you machine/grind them down to
taper from about 1" thick (!) to under 1/2" at the tailwheel attach end.
You should, of course, do Ontario Mod. #1 - a doubler over FUS-30,
to tie the top bulkhead, rudder post, and front triangular pieces together,
to better distribute the loads. Even if you are building as an ultralight !
This is one area that field experience has provided a 'fix' for - and
it IS necessary !
The old, original tailwheel worked great - Rebel #001 is still
available.with that tailwheel ! It is a bit awkward for ground handling - you can't
push it backwards !! Fortunately, the old tailwheel can be retrofitted to
become a full-swivel wheel, as now shipped. There was an upgrade kit
shipped 'way back about 1993 for this, and all the parts are still
aboutThis is a worthwhile thing to do - it makes ground handling much easier,
and will reduce the radius of your turns, as well.
What engine are you planning ??
......bobp
PS
If you are not going to use the fiberglass spring, you can toss it
my way ! :-)
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 11 August 2005 12:27 pm, Jesse Jenks wrote:old, oldInteresting discussion. I got an older kit from Wayne O. It has theprovisions.tailwheel mentioned by someone in this thread, with no castoringI also got a fiberglass spring. Since nobody responded to the query
them?how the old style tailwheel works I will ask again. Any comments on
Thanks,
Jesse
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
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Rebel tailwheel
Now Bob...don't go scaring him without checking in!!!
"Good 'ol Wayne" purchased brand new .063 main spars, new un-lightened rear
spars, skins for tailfeathers, 1650 gear legs, new MAM 3 piece wheels and
axles and a LOT of $$$$ of parts to upgrade the kit to the latest
standards.....including cutting fresh oversized .040 tanks skins and a host
of other things. Trust me...I lost money and Jesse got a full Rebel kit
other than possibly the optional tail wheel swivel kit. Figured the
tailwheel would get thrown away and replaced with a real one anyhow.
)
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2005 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel tailwheel
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"Good 'ol Wayne" purchased brand new .063 main spars, new un-lightened rear
spars, skins for tailfeathers, 1650 gear legs, new MAM 3 piece wheels and
axles and a LOT of $$$$ of parts to upgrade the kit to the latest
standards.....including cutting fresh oversized .040 tanks skins and a host
of other things. Trust me...I lost money and Jesse got a full Rebel kit
other than possibly the optional tail wheel swivel kit. Figured the
tailwheel would get thrown away and replaced with a real one anyhow.
)
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2005 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel tailwheel
together,Hi Jesse !
That would be the old ULTRALIGHT Rebel kit, I guess - it has thinner
spars, thin skins, and an all-fabric tail ... and a low gross weight
(originally 1,057 lb).
You are lucky !! I love the fiberglass springs, and will continue
to use them on my Rebels as long as I can get them !! They absorb shocks
well, and have a very benign failure mode - they delaminate & let you
down slowly..... Much better than steel springs, that just snap !
And infinitely better than the solid chunk of aluminum that now comes
as a "spring" - these can work IF you machine/grind them down to
taper from about 1" thick (!) to under 1/2" at the tailwheel attach end.
You should, of course, do Ontario Mod. #1 - a doubler over FUS-30,
to tie the top bulkhead, rudder post, and front triangular pieces
!to better distribute the loads. Even if you are building as an ultralight
flyingThis is one area that field experience has provided a 'fix' for - and
it IS necessary !
The old, original tailwheel worked great - Rebel #001 is still
available.with that tailwheel ! It is a bit awkward for ground handling - you can't
push it backwards !! Fortunately, the old tailwheel can be retrofitted to
become a full-swivel wheel, as now shipped. There was an upgrade kit
shipped 'way back about 1993 for this, and all the parts are still
oldThis is a worthwhile thing to do - it makes ground handling much easier,
and will reduce the radius of your turns, as well.
What engine are you planning ??
......bobp
PS
If you are not going to use the fiberglass spring, you can toss it
my way ! :-)
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 11 August 2005 12:27 pm, Jesse Jenks wrote:Interesting discussion. I got an older kit from Wayne O. It has the old,
provisions.tailwheel mentioned by someone in this thread, with no castoring
aboutI also got a fiberglass spring. Since nobody responded to the query
them?how the old style tailwheel works I will ask again. Any comments on
Thanks,
Jesse
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Rebel tailwheel
G'day
I am looking for some advice please.
I have replaced the standard Murphy tailwheel with a Scott 3200, but I don't
have any instructions on how it should be adjusted. Come to think of it I
never found any instructions for the Murphy wheel in the manual either.
What I have done is adjust the springs/chains so that there is just a little
slack in them and the wheel moves through the full range quite OK. But what
I don't understand is just when the "break out" should occur? Should the
wheel be pulled through to the "break out" position by the springs/chains or
should the wheel stop short of breaking out when the rudder hits the stops?
Is the wheel designed to be forced over the break out position by turning
the aircraft or should it be operated by the springs/chains.
I hope that made some sense. It seems rather difficult to explain!
Regards
Ian
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I am looking for some advice please.
I have replaced the standard Murphy tailwheel with a Scott 3200, but I don't
have any instructions on how it should be adjusted. Come to think of it I
never found any instructions for the Murphy wheel in the manual either.
What I have done is adjust the springs/chains so that there is just a little
slack in them and the wheel moves through the full range quite OK. But what
I don't understand is just when the "break out" should occur? Should the
wheel be pulled through to the "break out" position by the springs/chains or
should the wheel stop short of breaking out when the rudder hits the stops?
Is the wheel designed to be forced over the break out position by turning
the aircraft or should it be operated by the springs/chains.
I hope that made some sense. It seems rather difficult to explain!
Regards
Ian
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Rebel tailwheel
G'day from Australia
I have a complete, used, Murphy tailwheel assembly that I no longer have any
use for. It has had
maybe 200 hours use, and it seems in good order.
I thought that I would offer it to the group first, before I put it on eBay.
Reasonable offers accepted!
You can contact me at allsure@bigpond.net.au
Regards
Ian Donaldson
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I have a complete, used, Murphy tailwheel assembly that I no longer have any
use for. It has had
maybe 200 hours use, and it seems in good order.
I thought that I would offer it to the group first, before I put it on eBay.
Reasonable offers accepted!
You can contact me at allsure@bigpond.net.au
Regards
Ian Donaldson
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